Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Start just left of a roof and climb the wall above to reach a wide crack. Follow this into a niche and continue to a ledge (possible belay). Step left and thrash your way up the crack above. © Rockfax
FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 2 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First main pitch is steep but easy moves with good holds and good gear and makes a lovely E2. Sadly the 2nd pitch spoils tbe route somewhat as whilst it starts easy the wider upper crack is quite traditional trutchy HVS style climbing that feels as hard as the first pitch but this is more due to the difficulty of protecting the wide crack and the alkward nature of the climbing than the overall difficulty. Even running the 2 pitches together it didn't feel near E3 as others have suggested. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First main pitch is steep but easy moves with good holds and good gear and makes a lovely E2. Sadly the 2nd pitch spoils tbe route somewhat as whilst it starts easy the wider upper crack is quite traditional trutchy HVS style climbing that feels as hard as the first pitch but this is more due to the difficulty of protecting the wide crack and the alkward nature of the climbing than the overall difficulty. Even running the 2 pitches together it didn't feel near E3 as others have suggested. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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The Soup Dragon
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Saddle Bay)