UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab then continue precariously up the flake also using the right arete to harrowing final moves. Harder and scarier than it looks. © Rockfax

FA. John Fleming 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Laurence Everitt 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A sideways nut quite high up the crack is actually pretty good.
Show beta
βeta: A sideways nut quite high up the crack is actually pretty good.
Ropeboy 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not as bad as it looks, tricky pull to get etablished on the slab with good gear at your waist and then pretty steady to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as bad as it looks, tricky pull to get etablished on the slab with good gear at your waist and then pretty steady to the top.
teddy 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found the starting pull over the roof hard but maybe I put the wrong (right) foot up over the roof first?(prob best to put left foot on the unhelpful sidepull thing). Upper section not too bad but there is a high tricky last move up the arete fortunately with a cam at your waist.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the starting pull over the roof hard but maybe I put the wrong (right) foot up over the roof first?(prob best to put left foot on the unhelpful sidepull thing). Upper section not too bad but there is a high tricky last move up the arete fortunately with a cam at your waist.
Garan 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One which may be easier for the short! The flake is not the gear monster you are hoping for! The moves are fantasrtic moving right to the arete. Remember, it's a slab. Top end E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One which may be easier for the short! The flake is not the gear monster you are hoping for! The moves are fantasrtic moving right to the arete. Remember, it's a slab. Top end E2.

Logged Ascents

202 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Waterloo Sunset

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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