Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top, then swing right past the arete before making a mighty stretch for the top. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Jackson 1981.
Ticklists
Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jon Greengrass | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: loved the bottom crack big reach off a stonking handjam to nice moves on finger locks then a thin handjam to reach the break. First go tried to traverse the break on handjams with feet on the wall but it was really gritty and got pumped out scrabbling around with the weight on my arms. Second go realised I could reach the foot ledge (I'm 6' 1") and traverse on that with my hands on reasonable holds in the break. Once round the corner a nice mantleshelf move leads to the top (crux of nuke the midges?) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: loved the bottom crack big reach off a stonking handjam to nice moves on finger locks then a thin handjam to reach the break. First go tried to traverse the break on handjams with feet on the wall but it was really gritty and got pumped out scrabbling around with the weight on my arms. Second go realised I could reach the foot ledge (I'm 6' 1") and traverse on that with my hands on reasonable holds in the break. Once round the corner a nice mantleshelf move leads to the top (crux of nuke the midges?) |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The long traverse is quite reach dependant. I'm 5'10" and could just about traverse with my feet on a ledge, and rest in a few places. A bit taller and it would be easy! ;-P | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The long traverse is quite reach dependant. I'm 5'10" and could just about traverse with my feet on a ledge, and rest in a few places. A bit taller and it would be easy! ;-P |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Midshipman / Plain Sailing
Grade: E2 6a ***
(Birchen Edge)