UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
From the thin crack of Saliva, continue boldly to a large horizontal break, and runners. Finish up the steep wall above. © Rockfax

FA. John Fleming 1981.

Ticklists

2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Little Rascal 13 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Upper wall pretty clean as of April 2024.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Upper wall pretty clean as of April 2024.
Little Rascal 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The upper wall of Ashes is, as of Spring 2019, very dirty and doesn't look like it gets much traffic. The last three breaks were so gravelly that the slopers were almost impossible to pull on. Compared to the bolder E3 moves below, it 's only around HVS/E1 territory and safely protected by cams but I failed on it due to the scrittle. Seriously consider getting someone to brush the upper breaks if you want the onsight!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The upper wall of Ashes is, as of Spring 2019, very dirty and doesn't look like it gets much traffic. The last three breaks were so gravelly that the slopers were almost impossible to pull on. Compared to the bolder E3 moves below, it 's only around HVS/E1 territory and safely protected by cams but I failed on it due to the scrittle. Seriously consider getting someone to brush the upper breaks if you want the onsight!
Ropeboy 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The move to the break is considerably harder for the short, felt more like 6a with a bad fall potential. The top wall is enjoyable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The move to the break is considerably harder for the short, felt more like 6a with a bad fall potential. The top wall is enjoyable.
GDes 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: pretty soft i thought. but maybe cos i could reach straight from the good little hold to a decent hold below the break. good climb though. probably easier for the tall (over 6 foot)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pretty soft i thought. but maybe cos i could reach straight from the good little hold to a decent hold below the break. good climb though. probably easier for the tall (over 6 foot)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Archangel

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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