Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
An easy start gains the base of the main wall. Move up left to pockets and climb the wall direct on more pockets to an undercut. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great wall climb, high in the grade. An access pitch has now been bolted up the easy-angled slabs. Swing up and left to crystalline pockets, then climb the smooth wall, via a weird pocket, to reach a bucket at an undercut. Pull straight up onto the wall above, then continue directly until moves left past a sapling lead to a new lower off. Cleaned and rebolted June 2010.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 14/Oct/1990.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| freelunchprovider | 9 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can whoever's left the rusty maillon clogging up the crux bolt remove it. Why do that? It's on a staple you could have just threaded and lowered . | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can whoever's left the rusty maillon clogging up the crux bolt remove it. Why do that? It's on a staple you could have just threaded and lowered . |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Race To The Sea
Grade: 7c ***
(Sully Island)