UKC

250m, 8 pitches. A mostly direct line up a system of flakes and cracks behind the top of Heat Exchange/ Spitfire Tongue.
1. Climb Heat Exchange (or Spitfire Tongue, as this is more in keeping with the grade of the upper pitches).
2. Scramble up several bulges to below a flake and hanging groove. A crack on the right of the second bulge (5a) gives this pitch more interest.
3. 5b Climb the flake and hanging groove. Continue up and belay under a longer flake next to two stacked boulders.
4. 5b Climb the flake with an awkward top-out. Continue to the top of the pillar. Belay here and re-belay at the back of the amphitheatre.
5. 5a Climb the crack at the back of the amphitheatre (careful of loose flakes in the crack), traverse right across the slab on a quartz band. Traverse steeply on good holds into a hanging groove on the right wall. Continue up and left easily to belay behind a pillar at the base of a diagonal crack to the right of a corner.
6. 5b Climb the stained crack trending left to the corner and climb this onto a mossy ledge. Continue up more easily trending right to the bottom of a vegetated ramp.
7+8. Head left up the ramp to an easy chimney. Drop down behind a pillar and right to climb the next bulge continue left on easy ground to the top.

Roxy Wright and Matt Urquhart 14/Apr/2024.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
The Crack Den

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Oxbow Walls)

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