The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A good direct line up the walls, overhang and cracks parallel to Climbers' Club Direct. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully. Head directly up the wall (just left of Climbers' Club Ordinary) and cross its traverse to gain a position under the right side of an overhang. Pass the overhang via some steep leftward pulls and then head up round cracks and grooves to eventually meet and finish up Route B. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is another, worthwhile, variation start to Climbers’ Club, if the others
have been done. The second pitch isn’t quite as good, and could use more traffic.
1) 5a. Start just left of the gully. Climb the wall to join the traverse of Climbers’ Club, until the flake. Go right, around the side of the overhang, until it is possible to step onto it (or take it direct, harder). Climb up, and left, to belay beneath the Climbers’ Club chimney.
2) 5a. Move out right, and climb a hard groove/crack to the last pitch of Route B.
3) .Finish up Route B (Pg 16), or escape right.
1959.
Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Jcstewart | 2 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great forgotten classic route. Middle section where the crux is can be slightly tricky due to being dirty. All the holds are there though. protection is bomber just trust your feet. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A great forgotten classic route. Middle section where the crux is can be slightly tricky due to being dirty. All the holds are there though. protection is bomber just trust your feet. |
||||
SteveHastings | 29 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: PItch 2 cleaned April 2021. A great couple of pitches worth at least a star I think. Please have a go and enjoy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: PItch 2 cleaned April 2021. A great couple of pitches worth at least a star I think. Please have a go and enjoy. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)