UKC

Diary: 24th April for 'buxtoncoffeelover'

 Outdoor climbing > Logbook
Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) - The Brothers VS 4c
Following extensive safety engineering work by The BMC, this route has completely changed in nature, directions & grade.... so isn't really The Brothers anymore 😕. I explored an alternative P1 start (rightwards up slabs, then a difficult step up left onto a leftwards ascending ramp to join the original line) with mediocre gear (& not much of that.... 4 pieces, 1 good!!). G led P2, & seemed to be doing another Collom Variation..... seeking the (now gone) Shadrach Flake. Both pitches seemed to have a piece of 5a climbing, & gear was mediocre or hard-won in places, so I would suggest HVS 5a as reasonable now

Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) - Grim Wall VS 4c **
I led P1, G led P2, with the obligatory Collom Variation (omitted moving to the tree before following the directions, so moved up & left off the ledge belay, adding snippets of Meshach & GW Direct into the mix!!) but there are are inconsistencies between Rockfax guides

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