
North Face of Tour Ronde © Kai
'Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif' ticklist
contributed by jayjackson Oct/12
This public ticklist has been seen 1,984 times
The routes from Rebuffat's classic book. Arranged in the same order as in the book (so you should be able to work out your "Rebuffat points").
Numbers in notes below relate to the route numbers in the book.
*Route 2 on the Glacier des Bossons is replaced by the Mer de Glace for ice climbing training since the former has now receded to such an extent.
*Route 12 is an ascent of the Aiguille Croux via the S Ridge and then a continuation to the Punta Innominata via the SE Ridge.
*Route 17 is both Mont Blanc du Tacul by the Ordinary Route followed by an ascent of Cosmiques Arete back to the MIdi Station.
*Route 21 The Midi-Plan traverse suggested by Rebuffat descends from the Plan to the Requin Hut and on to Montenvers. Nowadays this route is more regularly reversed back to the Midi at AD (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35139).
*Route 31 involves an ascent of the Peigne by the Normal Route, and then continuing to the summit of the Pelerins via the Carmichael Route.
*Route 32 links the traverse or the Grand Charmoz into the traverse of the Aiguille du Grepon.
*Route 33 is both the Traverse of the Rochefort Arete and an ascent of the Ordinary Route on the Dent du Geant.
*Route 34 is an ascent of the Spencer Couloir followed by the traverse of Les Ciseaux to the Aiguille du Fou and a return to the Nantillons Glacier either by descending the Spencer or the Bregeault Ridge.
*Route 46 describes both the Menegaux and Couzy routes.
*Route 49 is an ascent of Mont Blanc from the Tete Rousse Hut via the NW face of the Bionnassay, continuing along it's E ridge to join the Gouter Route and finally descending past Maudit and the Tacul to the Valley Blanche.
*Route 52 is an ascent of the Aiguille du Peigne via the Papillons Ridge and then one of the WNW/Chamonix Face, NW Pillar, NW Face or N Ridge.
*Route 53 combines the SSE Face of Pointe Lachenal by the Contamine Route with the Voie Rebuffat on the Eperon des Cosmiques and the continuation of the Cosmiques Arete to the Midi Station.
*Route 84 is described by Rebuffat as Midi to Grepon.
*Route 92 suffered a complete collapse in 2005.
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Add | Climb name | Grade | Ticks? | Height | | Crag name |
| 1 | | Clocher Clochetons traverse | AD- *** | 35 | ? | | | Aiguilles Rouges |
| 2 | | Unknown ice climb, Mer de Glace, Chamonix | WI4+ | 14 | 25m | | | Mer de Glace |
| 3 | | L'Index SE Ridge | AD *** | 322 | ? | | | Aiguilles Rouges |
| 4 | | Chapelle de la Gliere (aka SSE Arête) | D+ *** | 225 | 400m | • 14 | | Aiguilles Rouges |
| 5 | | NE Arête | TD- ** | 16 | ? | | | Aiguilles Rouges |
| 6 | | Voie des dalles | TD- ** | 37 | ? | | | Aiguilles Rouges |
| 7 | | Amone Slab | E1 5b *** | 33 | 450m | | | Dalle de l'Amone |
| 8 | | Sarre Roof | A2 | 2 | ? | | | Sarre |
| 9 | | Traverse of the Petit Charmoz | AD ** | 45 | ? | | | Petits Charmoz |
| 10 | | North-West Ridge | PD * | 291 | ? | | | Petite Aiguille... |
| 11 | | SE ridge | AD ** | 57 | ? | | | Tour Ronde |
| 12 | | South Ridge | AD | 6 | ? | | | Aiguille Croux |
| 13 | | South East Ridge | PD | - | ? | | | Point de... |
| 14 | | Traverse of Main Ridge, NE to SW | PD ** | 34 | ? | | | Domes des Miages |
| 15 | | North Ridge | PD | 5 | ? | | | Le Tour Noir |
| 16 | | South-West (Table du Roc) Spur | PD *** | 82 | ? | | | Aiguille du Tour |
| 17 | | South Ridge | AD- ** | 35 | 450m | | | Aiguille de moine |
| 18 | | North-West Face | PD ** | 188 | ? | | | Mont Blanc du Tacul |
| 19 | | Arete des Cosmiques | AD *** | 910 | ? | | | Aiguille du Midi |
| 20 | | North North East Ridge | D * | 143 | ? | | | Aiguille de l'M |
| 21 | | South-West Flank (Glacier du Milieu) | PD+ ** | 87 | ? | | | Aiguille... |
| 22 | | East Ridge Direct | D ** | 47 | ? | | | Pyramid du tacul |
| 23 | | Midi-Plan Traverse | PD+ ** | 44 | ? | | | Aiguille du Plan |
| 24 | | South East Ridge | AD ** | - | 500m | | | Dent du Requin |
| 25 | | Normal Route via the Whymper Rib | AD *** | 3 | ? | | | Grandes Jorasses |
| 26 | | Gouter Ridge (normal route) | PD | 242 | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| 27 | | Grutter Ridge (Classic) | D- | 10 | ? | | | Aig. des Pelerins |
| 28 | | Traverse | AD+ *** | 3 | 3,519m | | | Aiguilles Dorees |
| 29 | | Traverse (Ecandies Ridge) | AD- * | - | ? | | | Les Ecandies |
| 30 | | Forbes Arete | AD *** | 79 | ? | | | Aiguille du... |
| 31 | | North-East Face | AD ** | 13 | ? | | | Les Courtes |
| 32 | | Aiguilles Grises route | PD | 3 | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| 33 | | Normal Route | AD | 22 | ? | | | Aiguille du Peigne |
| 34 | | Carmichael Route | D | - | 250m | | | Aig. des Pelerins |
| 35 | | Grand Charmoz Traverse | AD *** | 6 | ? | | | Grand Charmoz |
| 36 | | Traverse by North Ridge and South-South-West Ridges | D- ** | 4 | ? | | | Aiguille du Grepon |
| 37 | | West Ridge | AD *** | 50 | ? | | | Aiguille de... |
| 38 | | SW face (normal route) | AD *** | 88 | ? | | | Dent du Geant |
| 39 | | Spencer Couloir | AD+ *** | 2 | 200m | • 3 | | Aiguille de... |
| 40 | | Blaitiere-Fou Traverse via Les Ciseaux | AD+ ** | 1 | ? | | | Aguilles du Fou |
| 41 | | North Face | D- *** | 84 | ? | • 12 | | Tour Ronde |
| 42 | | Traverse of the the Aiguilles de Tre la Tete | PD ** | - | ? | | | Aiguilles de Tre la... |
| 43 | | Lepiny Route | V+ *** | 2 | 200m | • 8 | | Le Trident |
| 44 | | Traverse of Les Courtes | PD *** | 11 | 550m | | | Les Courtes |
| 45 | | South Ridge | D- * | - | 400m | | | Petites Jorasses,... |
| 46 | | Traverse | D *** | 4 | ? | | | Les Dru |
| 47 | | Whymper Couloir | AD | 14 | 600m | | | L'Aiguille Verte |
| 48 | | Via Ottoz-Hurzeler | TD ** | 10 | ? | • 16 | | Aiguille Croux |
| 49 | | Migot Spur | AD+ *** | 45 | 500m | | | Aiguille du... |
| 50 | | East Face Renaudie Direct | D *** | 7 | ? | | | Dent du Requin |
| 51 | | North ridge | D | 2 | ? | | | Mont Dolent |
| 52 | | Voie Menegaux | TD ** | 24 | 200m | • 7 | | Aiguille de l'M |
| 53 | | Voie Couzy | TD- ** | 43 | 200m | • 8 | | Aiguille de l'M |
| 54 | | Ryan-Lochmatter Route (East Ridge) | D+ *** | 2 | 550m | | | Aiguille du Plan |
| 55 | | North Face | D | - | ? | | | Pain de Sucre |
| 56 | | North Face Original Route | D *** | - | ? | | | Aiguille du... |
| 57 | | East Ridge | AD *** | 2 | ? | | | Aiguille du... |
| 58 | | Mont Blanc Traverse, Cosmiques hut to Gouter Hut | PD *** | 60 | 4,807m | | | Mont Blanc |
| 59 | | Frontier Ridge (Kuffner Ridge) | D *** | 89 | ? | | | Mont Maudit |
| 60 | | East Face Direct | VI ** | 10 | 400m | • 13 | | Aiguille de moine |
| 61 | | Papillons Ridge | D+ *** | 179 | ? | • 12 | | Aiguille du Peigne |
| 62 | | North Ridge Aiguille de Peigne | TD *** | 11 | ? | | | Aiguille du Peigne |
| 63 | | Contamine Route | E1 5c *** | 27 | ? | | | Pointe Lachenal |
| 64 | | Voie Rébuffat (South Face) | D+ *** | 136 | ? | | | Aiguille du Midi |
| 65 | | Diable (South-East) Ridge | D+ *** | - | ? | | | Mont Blanc du Tacul |
| 66 | | Rébuffat | TD *** | 90 | 250m | | | Aiguille du Midi |
| 67 | | Brenva Spur | D *** | 17 | 800m | | | Mont Blanc |
| 68 | | South face | TD *** | 5 | 180m | | | Dent du Geant |
| 69 | | Salluard Route | TD *** | 10 | ? | | | Pic Adolphe Rey |
| 70 | | Gervasutti Couloir | D- *** | 7 | 700m | | | Mont Blanc du Tacul |
| 71 | | south east spur | TD *** | 7 | ? | | | Le Minaret |
| 72 | | Vaucher Route (SW Face) | TD ** | 44 | 400m | • 14 | | Aiguille du Peigne |
| 73 | | Frendo Spur | D+ *** | 164 | ? | | | Aiguille du Midi |
| 74 | | South East Pillar | TD+ *** | 2 | 220m | • 9 | | Petit Clocher du... |
| 75 | | Roc-Grepon Traverse | TD ** | 1 | ? | | | Envers des Aiguilles |
| 76 | | Classic North Face | AD+ *** | 2 | 650m | | | Aiguille... |
| 77 | | Hirondelles Arete | D *** | - | ? | | | Grandes Jorasses |
| 78 | | Rebuffat Route (East Face) | TD ** | - | 450m | | | Aiguille de la... |
| 79 | | East Ridge | TD ** | - | ? | | | Dent du Crocodile |
| 80 | | North Face Of The Plan | TD | 5 | 1,000m | | | Aiguille du Plan |
| 81 | | Cretier Route | TD- ** | 3 | 750m | | | Mont Maudit |
| 82 | | Voie Brown / British Route | E2 | 7 | 350m | | | Aiguille de... |
| 83 | | Central Spur - Boccalatte Pillar | D+ ** | - | ? | | | Mont Blanc du Tacul |
| 84 | | Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses | D | 7 | ? | • 2 | | Grandes Jorasses |
| 85 | | Grands Montets Ridge | D | 3 | ? | | | L'Aiguille Verte |
| 86 | | South Ridge | TD *** | 9 | 1,100m | • 42 | | Aiguille Noire de... |
| 87 | | Central Spur | D *** | 2 | ? | | | Les Courtes |
| 88 | | Sans Nom Ridge | D | - | ? | | | L'Aiguille Verte |
| 89 | | North Face (Dent du requin) | ED1 | 2 | ? | | | Dent du Requin |
| 90 | | Couturier Coulior | D | 9 | 1,000m | | | L'Aiguille Verte |
| 91 | | The North Face (Petit Dru) | TD+ *** | 20 | 850m | | | Les Dru |
| 92 | | Innominata Ridge | D+ *** | 3 | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| 93 | | NE Spur | TD | 3 | ? | | | Les Droites |
| 94 | | Ratti-Vittali | TD+ | - | ? | | | Aiguille Noire de... |
| 95 | | Traverse of the Aiguilles | TD *** | 8 | ? | | | Aiguille du Midi |
| 96 | | Contamine Route | TD *** | 20 | ? | | | Petites Jorasses,... |
| 97 | | Gervasutti Pillar | TD *** | 26 | ? | | | Mont Blanc du Tacul |
| 98 | | Punnta Gugliermina SW Face Gervasutti | TD+ *** | - | 600m | | | Aiguille Blanche de... |
| 99 | | North Face | TD *** | 3 | ? | | | Aiguille de Triolet |
| 100 | | Bonatti Route | TD *** | 3 | ? | | | Grand Capucin |
| 101 | | Route Major | TD- *** | - | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| 102 | | Charlet-Platonov | TD | 3 | 900m | | | L'Aiguille Verte |
| 103 | | South West (Bonatti) Pillar (Petit Dru) | TD *** | 5 | ? | | | Les Dru |
| 104 | | The South Face Of The Fou | ED3 *** | - | ? | | | Aguilles du Fou |
| 105 | | Swiss Route | TD- *** | 26 | ? | | | Les Courtes |
| 106 | | Peuterey Ridge Integral | ED1 *** | 5 | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| 107 | | Croz Spur | ED1 *** | 7 | 1,000m | | | Grandes Jorasses |
| 108 | | Walker Spur | ED1 *** | 13 | ? | | | Grandes Jorasses |
| 109 | | The American Direct (Petit Dru) | ED1 *** | 11 | 1,050m | | | Les Dru |
| 110 | | Cornau-Davaille | ED1 | 1 | 1,000m | | | Les Droites |
| 111 | | Central Pillar of Freney | ED1 *** | 7 | ? | | | Mont Blanc |
| | 4 e, 228 stars | 4,506 | 27,451m | • 258 | | |
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