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On the Forbes Arete, Aig de Chardonnet
© liz j, Sep 2008

'Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif' ticklist

contributed by jayjackson Oct/12
This public ticklist has been seen 7,073 times

The routes from Rebuffat's classic book. Arranged in the same order as in the book (so you should be able to work out your "Rebuffat points"). Numbers in notes below relate to the route numbers in the book. *Route 2 on the Glacier des Bossons is replaced by the Mer de Glace for ice climbing training since the former has now receded to such an extent. *Route 12 is an ascent of the Aiguille Croux via the S Ridge and then a continuation to the Punta Innominata via the SE Ridge. *Route 17 is both Mont Blanc du Tacul by the Ordinary Route followed by an ascent of Cosmiques Arete back to the MIdi Station. *Route 21 The Midi-Plan traverse suggested by Rebuffat descends from the Plan to the Requin Hut and on to Montenvers. Nowadays this route is more regularly reversed back to the Midi at AD (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35139). *Route 31 involves an ascent of the Peigne by the Normal Route, and then continuing to the summit of the Pelerins via the Carmichael Route. *Route 32 links the traverse or the Grand Charmoz into the traverse of the Aiguille du Grepon. *Route 33 is both the Traverse of the Rochefort Arete and an ascent of the Ordinary Route on the Dent du Geant. *Route 34 is an ascent of the Spencer Couloir followed by the traverse of Les Ciseaux to the Aiguille du Fou and a return to the Nantillons Glacier either by descending the Spencer or the Bregeault Ridge. *Route 46 describes both the Menegaux and Couzy routes. *Route 49 is an ascent of Mont Blanc from the Tete Rousse Hut via the NW face of the Bionnassay, continuing along it's E ridge to join the Gouter Route and finally descending past Maudit and the Tacul to the Valley Blanche. *Route 52 is an ascent of the Aiguille du Peigne via the Papillons Ridge and then one of the WNW/Chamonix Face, NW Pillar, NW Face or N Ridge. *Route 53 combines the SSE Face of Pointe Lachenal by the Contamine Route with the Voie Rebuffat on the Eperon des Cosmiques and the continuation of the Cosmiques Arete to the Midi Station. *Route 84 is described by Rebuffat as Midi to Grepon. *Route 92 suffered a complete collapse in 2005.

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AddClimb nameGradeTicks?HeightCrag name
1Clocher Clochetons traverseAD- ***46?Aiguilles Rouges
2Unknown ice climb, Mer de Glace, ChamonixWI4+ 2425mMer de Glace
3L'Index SE RidgeAD ***405?Aiguilles Rouges
4Chapelle de la Gliere (aka SSE Arête)D+ ***276400m• 14Aiguilles Rouges
5NE ArêteTD- **19?Aiguilles Rouges
6Voie des dallesTD- **44?Aiguilles Rouges
7Amone SlabE1 5b ***40450mDalle de l'Amone
8Sarre RoofA2 240mTetto di Sarre
9Traverse of the Petit CharmozV **57?Petits Charmoz
10North-West RidgePD *383?Petite Aiguille...
11SE ridgeAD **84?Tour Ronde
12South RidgeAD- 8?Aiguille Croux
13South East RidgePD+ -?Point de...
14Traverse of Main Ridge, NE to SWPD **43?Domes des Miages
15North RidgePD 8?Le Tour Noir
16South-West (Table de Roc) SpurPD ***98?Aiguille du Tour
17South RidgeAD- **44450mAiguille de moine
18North-West FacePD **217?Mont Blanc du Tacul
19Arete des CosmiquesAD ***1188?Aiguille du Midi
20North North East RidgeD *160?Aiguille de l'M
21South-West Flank (Glacier du Milieu)PD+ **110?Aiguille...
22East RidgeD **60250m• 11Mont Blanc du Tacul
23Midi-Plan TraverseAD ***308?Aiguille du Midi
24South East RidgeAD **-500mDent du Requin
25Normal Route via the Whymper RibAD ***4?Grandes Jorasses
26Gouter Ridge (normal route)PD 297?Mont Blanc
27Grutter Ridge (Classic)D- 15?Aig. des Pelerins
28TraverseAD+ ***43,519mAiguilles Dorees
29Traverse (Ecandies Ridge)AD- *4?Les Ecandies
30Forbes AreteAD ***101?Aiguille du...
31North-East FaceAD **17?Les Courtes
32Aiguilles Grises routePD 4?Mont Blanc
33Normal RouteAD 26?Aiguille du Peigne
34Carmichael RouteD 2250mAig. des Pelerins
35Grand Charmoz TraverseAD ***10?Grand Charmoz
36Traverse by North Ridge and South-South-West RidgesD- **6?Aiguille du Grepon
37West RidgeAD ***69?Aiguille de...
38SW face (normal route)AD ***108?Dent du Geant
39Spencer CouloirAD+ ***8200m• 3Aiguille de...
40Blaitiere-Fou Traverse via Les CiseauxAD+ **2?Aguille du Fou
41North FaceD- ***110?• 12Tour Ronde
42Traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-TêteAD **-?Aiguilles de Tre la...
43Lepiny RouteV ***6200m• 8Le Trident
44Traverse of Les CourtesPD ***17550mLes Courtes
45South RidgeD- *3400mPetites Jorasses,...
46TraverseD ***8?Les Dru
47Whymper CouloirAD 18600mL'Aiguille Verte
48Voie Ottoz-HurzelerTD **15?• 16Aiguille Croux
49Migot SpurAD+ ***65500mAiguille du...
50Renaudie Direct (Central Spur)V ***7570mDent du Requin
51North ridgeD 2?Mont Dolent
52Voie MenegauxTD **29200m• 7Aiguille de l'M
53Voie CouzyTD- **47200m• 8Aiguille de l'M
54Ryan-Lochmatter Route (East Ridge)D+ ***5550mAiguille du Plan
55North FaceD 2?Pain de Sucre
56North Face Original RouteD ***1?Aiguille du...
57East RidgeAD ***4?Aiguille du...
58Mont Blanc Traverse, Cosmiques hut to Gouter HutPD ***734,807mMont Blanc
59Frontier Ridge (Kuffner Ridge)D ***109?Mont Maudit
60East Face DirectVI **11400m• 13Aiguille de moine
61Papillons RidgeD+ ***234?• 12Aiguille du Peigne
62North Ridge Aiguille de PeigneTD ***16?Aiguille du Peigne
63Contamine RouteE1 5c ***47?Pointe Lachenal
64Voie Rébuffat (South Face)D+ ***166?Aiguille du Midi
65Diable (South-East) RidgeD+ ***3?Mont Blanc du Tacul
66RébuffatTD ***135250mAiguille du Midi
67Brenva SpurD ***23800mMont Blanc
68South faceTD ***6180mDent du Geant
69Salluard RouteTD ***17300m• 10Pic Adolphe Rey
70Gervasutti CouloirD- ***9700mMont Blanc du Tacul
71South-East SpurV+ ***10270mLe Minaret
72Vaucher Route (SW Face)TD **61400m• 14Aiguille du Peigne
73Frendo SpurD+ ***207?Aiguille du Midi
74South East PillarTD+ ***4220m• 9Petit Clocher du...
75Roc-Grepon TraverseTD **2?Envers des Aiguilles
76Classic North FaceAD+ ***4650mAiguille...
77Hirondelles AreteD ***-?Grandes Jorasses
78East Face (Rebuffat Route)V+ **-450mAiguille de la...
79East RidgeTD- **1?Dent du Crocodile
80North Face Of The PlanTD 61,000mAiguille du Plan
81Cretier RouteTD- **3750mMont Maudit
82British RouteF6b 16350mAiguille de...
83Central Spur - Boccalatte PillarD+ **-?Mont Blanc du Tacul
84Traverse of the Grandes JorassesD 9?• 2Grandes Jorasses
85Grands Montets RidgeD 4?L'Aiguille Verte
86South RidgeTD ***121,100m• 42Aiguille Noire de...
87Central SpurD ***6?Les Courtes
88Sans Nom RidgeD -?L'Aiguille Verte
89North Face Original RouteTD 2700mDent du Requin
90Couturier CouliorD 111,000mL'Aiguille Verte
91The North Face (Petit Dru)TD+ ***27850mLes Dru
92Innominata RidgeD+ ***6?Mont Blanc
93NE SpurTD 3?Les Droites
94Ratti-VittaliTD+ -?Aiguille Noire de...
95Traverse of the AiguillesTD ***10?Aiguille du Midi
96Contamine RouteTD ***26?Petites Jorasses,...
97Gervasutti PillarTD ***31?Mont Blanc du Tacul
98Punnta Gugliermina SW Face GervasuttiTD+ ***-600mAiguille Blanche de...
99North FaceTD ***5?Aiguille de Triolet
100Bonatti RouteTD ***4?Grand Capucin
101Route MajorTD- ***1?Mont Blanc
102Charlet-PlatonovTD 3900mL'Aiguille Verte
103South West (Bonatti) Pillar (Petit Dru)TD ***9?Les Dru
104The South Face Of The FouED3 ***-?Aguille du Fou
105Swiss RouteTD- ***34?Les Courtes
106Peuterey Ridge IntegralED1 ***5?Mont Blanc
107Croz SpurED1 ***101,000mGrandes Jorasses
108Walker SpurED1 ***15?Grandes Jorasses
109The American Direct (Petit Dru)ED1 ***141,050mLes Dru
110Cornau-DavailleED1 11,000mLes Droites
111Central Pillar of FreneyED1 ***11?Mont Blanc
2 e, 229 stars6,06229,581m• 277