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Summit Aiguille du Plan after Midi-Plan Traverse
© dudsy04, Jul 2013

'Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif' ticklist

contributed by jayjackson Oct/12
This public ticklist has been seen 8,408 times

The routes from Rebuffat's classic book. Arranged in the same order as in the book (so you should be able to work out your "Rebuffat points"). Numbers in notes below relate to the route numbers in the book. *Route 2 on the Glacier des Bossons is replaced by the Mer de Glace for ice climbing training since the former has now receded to such an extent. *Route 12 is an ascent of the Aiguille Croux via the S Ridge and then a continuation to the Punta Innominata via the SE Ridge. *Route 17 is both Mont Blanc du Tacul by the Ordinary Route followed by an ascent of Cosmiques Arete back to the MIdi Station. *Route 21 The Midi-Plan traverse suggested by Rebuffat descends from the Plan to the Requin Hut and on to Montenvers. Nowadays this route is more regularly reversed back to the Midi at AD (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35139). *Route 31 involves an ascent of the Peigne by the Normal Route, and then continuing to the summit of the Pelerins via the Carmichael Route. *Route 32 links the traverse or the Grand Charmoz into the traverse of the Aiguille du Grepon. *Route 33 is both the Traverse of the Rochefort Arete and an ascent of the Ordinary Route on the Dent du Geant. *Route 34 is an ascent of the Spencer Couloir followed by the traverse of Les Ciseaux to the Aiguille du Fou and a return to the Nantillons Glacier either by descending the Spencer or the Bregeault Ridge. *Route 46 describes both the Menegaux and Couzy routes. *Route 49 is an ascent of Mont Blanc from the Tete Rousse Hut via the NW face of the Bionnassay, continuing along it's E ridge to join the Gouter Route and finally descending past Maudit and the Tacul to the Valley Blanche. *Route 52 is an ascent of the Aiguille du Peigne via the Papillons Ridge and then one of the WNW/Chamonix Face, NW Pillar, NW Face or N Ridge. *Route 53 combines the SSE Face of Pointe Lachenal by the Contamine Route with the Voie Rebuffat on the Eperon des Cosmiques and the continuation of the Cosmiques Arete to the Midi Station. *Route 84 is described by Rebuffat as Midi to Grepon. *Route 92 suffered a complete collapse in 2005.

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AddClimb nameGradeTicks?HeightCrag name
Clocher Clochetons traverseAD- ***50?Aiguilles Rouges
Unknown ice climb, Mer de Glace, ChamonixWI4+ 2725mMer de Glace
L'Index SE RidgeAD ***451?Aiguilles Rouges
Chapelle de la Gliere (aka SSE Arête)D+ ***299400m• 14Aiguilles Rouges
NE ArêteTD- **19?Aiguilles Rouges
Voie des dallesTD- **48?Aiguilles Rouges
Amone SlabTD+ ***40450mDalle de l'Amone
Sarre RoofA2 240mTetto di Sarre
Traverse of the Petit CharmozV **59?Petits Charmoz
North-West RidgePD *416?Petite Aiguille...
SE ridgeAD **96?Tour Ronde
South RidgeAD- 8?Aiguille Croux
South East RidgePD+ 1?Point de...
Traverse of Main Ridge, NE to SWPD **45?Domes des Miages
North RidgePD 8?Le Tour Noir
South-West (Table de Roc) SpurPD ***103?Aiguille du Tour
South RidgeAD- **49450mAiguille de moine
North-West FacePD **229?Mont Blanc du Tacul
Arete des CosmiquesAD ***1280?Aiguille du Midi
North North East RidgeD *173?Aiguille de l'M
South-West Flank (Glacier du Milieu)PD+ **117?Aiguille...
East RidgeD **61250m• 11Mont Blanc du Tacul
Midi-Plan TraverseAD ***323?Aiguille du Plan
South East RidgeAD **1500mDent du Requin
Normal Route via the Whymper RibAD ***4?Grandes Jorasses
Gouter Ridge (normal route)PD 318?Mont Blanc
Grutter Ridge (Classic)D- 16?Aig. des Pelerins
TraverseAD+ ***63,519mAiguilles Dorees
Traverse (Ecandies Ridge)AD- *6?Les Ecandies
Forbes AreteAD ***121?Aiguille du...
North-East FaceAD **17?Les Courtes
Aiguilles Grises routePD 4?Mont Blanc
Normal RouteAD 29?Aiguille du Peigne
Carmichael RouteD 2250mAig. des Pelerins
Grand Charmoz TraverseAD ***11?Grand Charmoz
Traverse by North Ridge and South-South-West RidgesD- **6?Aiguille du Grepon
West RidgeAD ***77?Aiguille de...
SW face (normal route)AD ***117?Dent du Geant
Spencer CouloirAD+ ***8200m• 3Aiguille de...
Blaitiere-Fou Traverse via Les CiseauxAD+ **2?Aguille du Fou
North FaceD- ***130?• 12Tour Ronde
Traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-TêteAD **-?Aiguilles de Tre la...
Lepiny RouteV ***7200m• 8Le Trident
Traverse of Les CourtesPD ***18550mLes Courtes
South RidgeD- *3400mPetites Jorasses,...
TraverseD ***8?Les Dru
Whymper CouloirAD 23600mL'Aiguille Verte
Voie Ottoz-HurzelerTD **15?• 16Aiguille Croux
Migot SpurAD+ ***75500mAiguille du...
Renaudie Direct (Central Spur)V ***7570mDent du Requin
North ridgeD 2?Mont Dolent
Voie MenegauxTD **31200m• 7Aiguille de l'M
Voie CouzyTD- **50200m• 8Aiguille de l'M
Ryan-Lochmatter Route (East Ridge)D+ ***6550mAiguille du Plan
North FaceD 2?Pain de Sucre
North Face Original RouteD ***1?Aiguille du...
East RidgeAD ***4?Aiguille du...
Mont Blanc Traverse, Cosmiques hut to Gouter HutPD ***754,807mMont Blanc
Frontier Ridge (Kuffner Ridge)D ***121?Mont Maudit
East Face DirectVI **11400m• 13Aiguille de moine
Papillons RidgeD+ ***254?• 12Aiguille du Peigne
North Ridge Aiguille de PeigneTD ***16?Aiguille du Peigne
Contamine RouteE1 5c ***55?Pointe Lachenal
Voie Rébuffat (South Face)D+ ***176?Aiguille du Midi
Diable (South-East) RidgeD+ ***3?Mont Blanc du Tacul
RébuffatTD ***151250mAiguille du Midi
Brenva SpurD ***23800mMont Blanc
South faceTD ***6180mDent du Geant
Salluard RouteTD ***19300m• 10Pic Adolphe Rey
Gervasutti CouloirD- ***9700mMont Blanc du Tacul
South-East SpurV+ ***11270mLe Minaret
Vaucher Route (SW Face)TD **66400m• 14Aiguille du Peigne
Frendo SpurD+ ***225?Aiguille du Midi
South East PillarTD+ ***4220m• 9Petit Clocher du...
Roc-Grepon TraverseTD **2?Envers des Aiguilles
Classic North FaceAD+ ***4650mAiguille...
Hirondelles AreteD ***-?Grandes Jorasses
East Face (Rebuffat Route)V+ **-450mAiguille de la...
East RidgeTD- **1?Dent du Crocodile
North Face Of The PlanTD 61,000mAiguille du Plan
Cretier RouteTD- **3750mMont Maudit
British RouteF6b 16350mAiguille de...
Central Spur - Boccalatte PillarD+ **-?Mont Blanc du Tacul
Traverse of the Grandes JorassesD 9?• 2Grandes Jorasses
Grands Montets RidgeD 4?L'Aiguille Verte
South RidgeTD ***121,100m• 42Aiguille Noire de...
Central SpurD ***6?Les Courtes
Sans Nom RidgeD -?L'Aiguille Verte
North Face Original RouteTD 2700mDent du Requin
Couturier CouliorD 111,000mL'Aiguille Verte
The North Face (Petit Dru)TD+ ***27850mLes Dru
Innominata RidgeD+ ***8?Mont Blanc
NE SpurTD 3?Les Droites
Ratti-VittaliTD+ -?Aiguille Noire de...
Traverse of the AiguillesTD ***10?Aiguille du Midi
Contamine RouteTD ***26?Petites Jorasses,...
Gervasutti PillarTD ***32?Mont Blanc du Tacul
Punnta Gugliermina SW Face GervasuttiTD+ ***-600mAiguille Blanche de...
North FaceTD ***5?Aiguille de Triolet
Bonatti RouteTD ***4?Grand Capucin
Route MajorTD- ***2?Mont Blanc
Charlet-PlatonovTD 3900mL'Aiguille Verte
South West (Bonatti) Pillar (Petit Dru)TD ***9?Les Dru
The South Face Of The FouED3 ***-?Aguille du Fou
Swiss RouteTD- ***37?Les Courtes
Peuterey Ridge IntegralED1 ***5?Mont Blanc
Croz SpurED1 ***101,000mGrandes Jorasses
Walker SpurED1 ***16?Grandes Jorasses
The American Direct (Petit Dru)ED1 ***141,050mLes Dru
Cornau-DavailleED1 21,000mLes Droites
Central Pillar of FreneyED1 ***11?Mont Blanc
1 e, 229 stars6,55629,581m• 277