The IFSC has announced a new process to allow Russian and Belarusian athletes to return to competitions as neutrals from 2024. This decision means that athletes from these nations will be unable to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games in Sport Climbing, since participation in the Olympic Qualifier Series in 2024 is contingent on 2023 IFSC World Cup circuit rankings. 

'The IFSC Executive Board decision was reached by a designated task force 'after reaffirming the support for the Ukrainian athletes, and the principles of the separation of sport and politics, as well as of all athletes being able to compete,' the IFSC press release reads.

On March 28, the IOC Executive Board recommended that Russian and Belarusian athletes — who do not 'actively support' the invasion and are not affiliated to the military — could participate in international competitions in a neutral status, with the exception of team sports. Sports federations were tasked with deciding on whether or not to reinstate athletes from these nations.

Since then, international governing bodies have been divided in their response, with some sports such as tennis and fencing reinstating sanctioned nations with immediate effect, while others including World Athletics have voted to continue the suspension 'for the foreseeable future.'

'The decision to initiate the process of reinstating athletes with Russian and Belarusian passports was not an easy one and was not taken lightly,' said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. 'Without hesitation, I say that the IFSC remains firm condemning the Russian aggression to Ukraine and continues to stand by our Ukrainian National Federation and climbers, and the Ukrainian people.'

'At the same time, we consider the mission of sport and the politicisation of the athletes. We believe in the values of Olympism and inclusion, but we listen to the pressures of many governments. We are also aware that – tragically – more than one hundred armed conflicts are more or less raging around the globe.

'Therefore, we tried to find a balance between the different positions and create a system which can be implemented fairly in the future also for conflicts in different areas.'

The IFSC also addressed the need for a resumption of medical and anti-doping controls for Russian and Belarusian athletes ahead of the 2024 season.

President of the Russian Climbing Federation, Dmitry Bychkov, had previously criticised the IOC's proposal to allow neutral participation, telling InsideTheGames.com that these conditions were 'humiliating' and unappealing to Russian athletes, and that participation this season and in Paris 2024 would be 'unlikely.'

The IOC is yet to decide whether reinstated Russian and Belarusian athletes in other sports will be permitted to compete as neutrals in Paris 2024.

Following the IFSC's latest announcement, Bychkov commented in a statement on the Russia Climbing Federation website:

'We do not agree with this state of affairs and consider that if a decision has already been made, the procedure could start right now. There is no real need to wait until 2024. There are no global processes that the IFSC needs another six months to launch. 

At the same time, I can note that dialogue with the IFSC is not lost in the current situation. It is there. And that is why we have been waiting for completely different decisions. Unfortunately, in practice, even the March recommendations of the IOC in relation to the climbers have not been implemented. In fact, we were simply deprived of the possibility to take part in the Olympics in Paris. This is a direct violation of the Olympic Charter. We are in permanent contact with the Russian Olympic Committee and the Ministry of Sport. Together, we are taking all necessary efforts to ensure that our athletes take part in international competitions and have the opportunity to represent Russia at major competitions without discrimination.'

A number of Russian climbers representing their country on the IFSC circuit are members of the Central Army Sports Club Moscow (CSKA), a department of the Russian Ministry of Defence with ranked soldiers, and receive government funding for representing the military. Under the IOC recommendations, these athletes would not be permitted to compete as neutrals. 

Following the IFSC's announcement today, many Russian athletes and climbing fans have condemned the IFSC's decision. Olympian Iuliia Kaplina wrote on Instagram:

'All this time I was dreaming and hope that I could correct my mistake in Tokyo. That I would have a second chance ... For this I got up every morning. Now I feel only emptiness and pain.'

Since the outbreak of Vladimir Putin's war on Ukraine in February 2022, Ukrainian athletes have spoken out against the invasion and the reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes (UKC News).

When the IOC announced its recommendations in March, the Ukrainian government and the National Olympic Committee of Ukraine released a joint statement claiming that if Russian and Belarusian athletes were to return to international competitions, then no Ukrainian athletes would attend or compete at the same events.

The IFSC's decision to defer reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes until 2024 therefore means that Ukrainian athletes will be able to participate in Olympic qualification events.

The IFSC has supported the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation by waiving its annual membership fees and competition registration fees for all IFSC events since the outbreak of the war, while making 'its best efforts to facilitate Ukrainian athletes' participation in IFSC competitions.'

Responding to the IOC's announcement in March, Ukrainian national team member and Olympic hopeful Jenya Kazbekova wrote: 

'Russian athletes competing at international events (regardless of flag, as everyone will know that they are from Russia) gives Russia a chance to show their pride of being an aggressor.'

What are the current restrictions on sanctioned federations?

In February 2022, the IFSC cancelled all climbing events in Russia and suspended all Russian athletes and Belarusian officials from participating in IFSC activities (UKC News). Until 2024, the following restrictions remain in place:

• No athlete will be able to represent Russia or Belarus;
• No flag, anthem, colours, or any other identifications whatsoever of these countries will be displayed at any sports event or meeting, including the entire venue;
• No Russian or Belarusian government or state official can be invited to or accredited for any international sports event or meeting;
• No international sports event will be organised or supported by an IF or NOC in Russia or Belarus; and
• Officials, including routesetters and judges, with Russian or Belarusian passports will remain suspended.