Craig y Forwyn finally free

by Guy Keating, BMC Dec/2008
This news story has been read 25,926 times
+Graham Parkes on Pterodactyl, HVS 5a, Craig y Forwen, c1980, 194 kb
BMC negotiate access to Craig y Forwyn, ending a 20-year ban

This is a cause for celebration! The BMC has just re-secured access to Craig y Forwyn – a premier trad limestone crag in North Wales. After a ban of nearly twenty years, an agreement has been reached with the owner, and it is open for business once more.

Access was originally lost due to parking issues, so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.

Guy Keating, BMC Access Officer is very pleased: “After 18 months of background spadework and discussions with the landowner, local climbers and the Countryside Council for Wales, we are over the moon that we have been able to make this outstanding crag available to climbers again. It really is a fantastic place – a sheltered woodland sun trap, packed with high calibre routes and only 10 minutes from the A55. Enjoy.”

If you're heading to Craig y Forwyn, be aware that the crag has seen very little activity from climbers during the ban, and as a result some of the routes contain large swathes of ivy. This can make the routes dirty, and loosen flakes and blocks – be careful.

Read More including important approach and parking information at BMC Website

The UKClimbing.com Crag entry for Craig y Forwyn now needs updating and photographs adding. Happy climbing.

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