World Bouldering Round-Upby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jun/2009
This news story has been read 4,910 times
Listed on The Low Down is the 6 problems of around Font 8C that Schwaiger has climbed:
Fred Moix has grabbed the 3rd ascent of Underground Paradise, (Font 8B+), Fionnay, Switzerland (Video Below).
UKC forums is Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival's fast repeat of the very famous problem Jade (V15 / Font 8C) in RMNP (Rocky Mountain National Park), Colorado, USA.
Nalle ticked the problem in marginal weather commenting on his blog:
"Right when I fell on the pads I looked into the valley and noticed it was already snowing and saw a huge blizzard coming towards us. I knew this was my last change and with no rest I started climbing. I got through the crux, stuck the sidepull and got to the good rail. At this point it was snowing really hard and I saw some water dripping from the top. Carefully grabbing the holds I topped it out in the rain! In total Jade took me two days and around ten full tries from the start."
He then went on to add a new highball Font 8B in the Mt Evans area a few days later. Sunseeker is described on his blog thus:
"This tall and proud line climbs a sloping rail on a perfect steep overhang, leading to a horrifying mantle high off the deck. It has a good obvious starting hold and about 21 moves, all of them upwards. The bottom part climbing into the stand is probably around V12 and after that you still have to do do stand start which is a technical highball V10. At the moment there is still snow on the landing making it possible to take falls without getting hurt, but when the snow melts it will most likely be a death landing."
More info: Nalle's blog.
And last but not least, Kornelius Obleitner has repeated Bernd Zangerl's Anam Cara, (Font 8C-ish), at Silvretta, Austria. There is a video of his ascent here: Chalkjunkie
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