Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Jul 2009
© Jack Geldard 2009
3 x F8b in 2 weeks for Neil Mawson:
Sheffield based climber Neil Mawson has hit the ground running in the last 2 weeks with fast ascents of three F8b sport routes across the country.
Melancholie, the notoriously fingery and conditions dependant F8b on LPT, Llandudno, North Wales, was first climbed by an on form Adam Wainwright and is still considered hard for the grade. Adam originally graded the route F8b+, but an ever competitive Ben Moon made a swift repeat and knocked it down to F8b.
LPT (Lower Pen Trwyn) has seen quite a revival of late, with the old, rusty bolts being replaced with brand new glue-ins, almost single handedly by local climber and now local hero Pete Harrison. Pete has equipped virtually every route on the crag and rumour has it that he is now moving on to The Diamond on the Little Orme. If you see him - buy him a pint.
Full Tilt is the first half of the classic F8c True North on the north buttress of Kilnsey crag, Yorkshire and finishes at a half height lower-off, but still gives a quality, two-star F8b. Steel the Show links Cold Steal (F8a) in to Showtime (F8a+), on the far left hand side of Kilnsey crag.
Earlier in the year Neil also tidied up some unfinished business with a rare repeat of the very hard F8b+ Power Ranger at Malham Cove, Yorkshire.
With Mawson on good enough form to tick three routes of this standard in such a short space of time, perhaps the seed is sown for him to get stuck in to the extension of Full Tilt and tick his first F8c with an ascent of True North - who knows. Good luck Neil!
Neil Mawson is sponsored by Marmot and Zero-G Climbing.