Gritstone: Loving it to Death?by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Oct/2009
This news story has been read 14,918 times
"As you can see the brushing was pretty thorough..." remarked Graham looking at the famous line of Careless Torque.
Graham also sent pictures of the recently damaged flake of Right Unconquerable, the classic HVS first climbed by Joe Brown.
This perfect flake of gritstone had seen earlier damage (circa 10 years ago) when a car jack was reportedly used to try and remove a stuck cam. A new section of flake has been damaged, probably by a falling climber using a cam for protection. Obviously using cams is standard practice on gritstone and the climber involved is not to blame, but it is a stark reminder of the fragility of our classic routes.
"I guess Right Unconquerable is holding up quite well really, given that its one of the most sought after ticks in the country. It's not the most solid rock on the crag - the top half has a tendency towards sandiness, so I'm not entirely surprised." commented local friction addict Adam Long, after looking at Graham's photographs.
However he was less understanding about some over-brushing and chalking on the classic highball problem Careless Torque, one of the most aesthetic lines on gritstone:
"To quote Bernard Manning: It's a fu*king disgrace." he said.
"I can't really understand how people can be so blinkered as to not realise this is unacceptable. I can only assume from the amount of chalk that the route was being tried whilst damp, and from a top-rope." commented Adam.
“Get your eyes tested”
He went on to describe different ways in which it is possible to minimise damage and visual impact on these classic and beautiful rock formations:
There has been a discussion on over-chalking on Careless Torque a couple of years ago on UKBouldering.com.
We recently reported that "WideBoy" Tom Randall had climbed a new line on Ilam Rock... Read more
Tim Emmett and Angelika Rainer were crowned Red Bull White Cliffs champions on the Isle of Wight last week, after... Read more
David Lama has made the first ascent of Avaatara, 9a, in the Baatara Gorge, Lebanon. According to the video, he was the first to... Read more
This week's Friday Night Video from BMC TV includes some gritstone action from Black Rocks, a crag that was once known as... Read more
Parts of the popular climbing area Cheddar Gorge have been severely vandalised following a series of destructive acts... Read more
Earlier this week Sam Lawson sent us a link to one of his videos - Gritmas. We liked it, it's got some great gritstone... Read more