Anstey's Cove 8a and 8a+ for 14 Year Old Alex

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2012
This news story has been read 4,845 times

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+Alex Waterhouse on Pet Cemetery, 8a+, Anstey's Cove, 70 kb
Alex Waterhouse on Pet Cemetery, 8a+, Anstey's Cove
UKC News, Mar 2012
© Phil Waterhouse
14 year old GB climbing team member Alex Waterhouse had a successful week last week with ascents of The Cider Soak (8a) and Pet Cemetery (8a+) at Anstey's Cove, Devon.

The Cider Soak is one of the classic 8as of the UK and Pet Cemetery is a worthwhile link up of neighbouring route The Lynch (7b+) in to the top of The Cider Soak.

Interestingly, Alex's comments on his blog allude to these routes being only around his 10th ever outdoor climbs that he has completed. The following extract is from Alex's blog about climbing The Cider Soak:

"The next go I was feeling strong, moving though the first section well, and was quite surprised when I latched the resting jug! The first section is the crux, but the section from the jug is almost as hard and entirely droppable. In my bolt to bolts I'd done the move off of the jug in a very powerful way, and when I was resting and had a couple of test go's, I realised I wouldn't be able to do it that way this time. I made up a bit of beta involving a match on a crimp, and I had the sloper. Right hand to the crimp, heel on, left hand to the sloper , heel up, slap to the crimp, slap with the right hand to the jug! I'd done it :D My first 8a outdoors, and come to think of it, about my 10th completed route on rock... Time to get some mileage in! Anyway, I have completed one of my goals, to climb 8a outdoors before I was 15!"

Alex also commented on his ascent of Pet Cemetery on his blog:

"The Lynch went well; I even missed the second clip to feel all fancy, and got to the jam rest. The crux felt solid, match was fine, big move out left, heel up, right hand over, sort out left foot and pull for jug! I hit it! Not pumped, just had to relax a bit for the top section, then launched into it. All of a sudden I was topping out and the chains were clipped! First 8a+, didn't really feel that bad and definitely not at my limit! Tuppence next!"

+Anstey's Cove from the Rockfax West Country Climbs Guidebook, 220 kb
Anstey's Cove from the Rockfax West Country Climbs Guidebook
UKC News, Jun 2010
© Rockfax


Alex is supported by Cotswold Exeter, TinyClimb Chalkbags and The Barn Climbing Centre.


Forums ( Read More... | 6 comments, 31 Mar 2012 )
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