Paul Robinson repeats Entlinge, 8B+by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2012
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Paul Robinson has repeated Fred Nicole's Entlinge at Murgtal, one of the few places that are dry enough to climb in the Alps right now.
Paul says that he was really surprised by the steepness of the problem. In videos it looks to be around 45 degrees or so, but in reality Paul estimates it to e closer to 70 degrees, i.e more or less a roof.
I told Paul I thought the climbing looked pretty straight forward and that I guessed the holds must be worse than they look:
... the holds are pretty bad but what makes it hard is that all the holds are in a line, so you never really have opposition, and the pinch in the middle is so hard because you basically have to dead hang it as it is right above you.
Here's Niccolo Ceria climbing the problem.