FRi NIGHT VID: Stamina Training Tips - James Pearsonby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2013
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I was interested to watch this video as I remember that a few years ago James was primarily a boulderer and hard grit headpointer, and he said himself that stamina and endurance were his biggest weaknesses. This isn't the case these days as James is now a fully blown Euro-Stamina-Monster, and regularly climbs sport routes in the high 8s. And he's still tradding of course (check out the recent UKC News). So I wanted to know his secrets!
Wild Country introduce their video:
In this two part series Wild Country athlete James Pearson delves into training for rock climbing and gives us his take on training for stamina climbs. In the videos he looks at pure endurance routes as well as power endurance routes and gives some simple, basic, techniques for training both of these.
In part one he looks at Endurance training for routes of more than 30 moves and discusses some training techniques you can use at nearly any wall. As well as this he takes in some mental and strategic pointers to help you on your way.
James Pearson has put these techniques to good use in his transition from a boulderer and short route specialist to someone who has repointed long 9a routes and plenty of other long sustained climbs too.
You can check out James's profile here: bit.ly/Zlvz9j
You can also check out Wild Country's latest harness range including the superb new Eclipse (as worn by James in the video) as well as the new Blaze and Boost here: bit.ly/15lkhUT
Thanks to Neil Bentley and the Foundry Climbing Centre, Sheffield, for their help in making this training film.