Chris Bevins: 1st British NIAD Solo

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Jun/2013
This news story has been read 13,502 times

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+Chris Bevins (lower climber) having just made the infamous 'King Swing' on the Nose., 184 kb
Chris Bevins (lower climber) having just made the infamous 'King Swing' on the Nose.
UKC News, Jun 2013
© Tom Evans

On the 16th June, Chris Bevins made the first British solo ascent of The Nose, C2, on El Capitan, Yosemite, in a single sub-24 hr push. A feat that puts him in the company of just handful of other people. 

Chris is the 13th person (some have soloed NIAD multiple times), 1st British and 1st non-North American soloist to climb The Nose in a day (NIAD). Many Brits have attempted to solo routes on El Cap in a day without success, even on Zodiac, A3, in 7 linked pitches, compared to The Nose's 32 pitches. Chris' ascent took him 22 hours.

The Nose was one of the first routes up the main face of El Capitan, following the prominent 'arete'-like feature straight up the middle of El Capitan, it is extremely popular, featuring in '50 Classic Climbs of North America' by Steve Roper. Here is a brief history of The Nose:

  • First climbed by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 1958, taking 45 days of work with the final summit push taking 11 days
  • The second ascent also saw the first single push ascent of The Nose by Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins, taking the team 7 days in 1960.
  • Nine years after the second ascent, Tom Bauman made the first solo ascent. 
  • Then, in 1975 Jim Bridwell, John Long and Billy Westbay made the first sub-24 hour ascent, climbing the route in around 15 hours.
  • The first solo in a day ascent was made in 1989 by Steve Schneider. 
  • In 1993, Lynn Hill made the first free ascent of The Nose, grading it 5.13b/c on Yosemite Decimal Scale. 
  • Alex Honnold currently holds the speed-record for soloing The Nose in 5 hours and 50 minutes in 2010.

+Chris climbing the 'Grey Bands Traverse' pitch on the first British NIAD solo., 227 kb
Chris climbing the 'Grey Bands Traverse' pitch on the first British NIAD solo.
UKC News, Jun 2013
© Tom Evans

The photos are from Tom Evans' excellent El Cap Report, in which Tom takes photos from El Cap Bridge and writes up a report on what is happening everyday. If you enjoy Tom's reports, donations are vital to keep the site up and running.


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