User Comments
Tell me if I'm being a spaz here but I don't get what's going on with the ropes. Where does the route go?
Jamie Brown - 28/Apr/06
It wobbles up the left arete to a junction with Caricature, then takes the wall to the right, trending left. I started from the green ledge of Rib Chimney as the direct start was wet, 1st side-runner above your head at start. Nut runner at junction with Caricature, 2nd gear LH rope. Side-runner in base of crack to right of big ledge.
Jon Read - 28/Apr/06
Sinc no-one seems to know, E?
thekirkz - 30/Apr/06
E7 6b I think...
Beaver - 04/May/06
I think E6/7 depending on whether you hit the ledge.
Jon Read - 01/Nov/06
A few questions as this route interests me, but i'm very confused. It would be good if you could tell me if i'm right.
The E5 goes up the chimney on the left then onto the face and follows just right of the arete via your second piece of gear on the left rope?
There is an E6 which goes direct up to the E5?
The E7 goes up the crack by your right rope then up and left to the second gear placement? you then traverse right and get a side runner in the crack on the right before going left to finish straight up the wall?
Sorry to be so slow it just looks like a cool buttress though. I'm not after beta, just route lines and side runner allowances.
Thank You :)
Franco Cookson OLD - 11/Dec/09
The E5 goes up the chimney on the left then onto the face and follows just right of the arete via your second piece of gear on the left rope?
There is an E6 which goes direct up to the E5?
The E7 goes up the crack by your right rope then up and left to the second gear placement? you then traverse right and get a side runner in the crack on the right before going left to finish straight up the wall?
Sorry to be so slow it just looks like a cool buttress though. I'm not after beta, just route lines and side runner allowances.
Thank You :)
You're right.
Caricature E5 launches horizontally out right from the chimney to just above where the rope runs over the arête, up to the gear (last runner on left in photo) then straight up the seam all the way to the top.
Caricature Direct E6 steps onto the arête much lower down (down and right of the chimney side-runner), joins and finishes the original.
Chiaroscuro, as described by Gary Gibson, starts up the first crack of Bachelors, inches left to the same point on the arête as Car.Direct starts, up to the gear (the last runner on my left in photo), scuttle down and right on a grassy ramp to get the side-runner in Bachelors finishing crack (last runner on right in photo), then steps back left to take the big wall, starting towards the right-hand side and moving up and left to finish. I skipped the Bachelors start, partly because I wanted that chimney side-runner, but otherwise makes no real difference to the climbing.
Jon Read - 12/Dec/09
Caricature E5 launches horizontally out right from the chimney to just above where the rope runs over the arête, up to the gear (last runner on left in photo) then straight up the seam all the way to the top.
Caricature Direct E6 steps onto the arête much lower down (down and right of the chimney side-runner), joins and finishes the original.
Chiaroscuro, as described by Gary Gibson, starts up the first crack of Bachelors, inches left to the same point on the arête as Car.Direct starts, up to the gear (the last runner on my left in photo), scuttle down and right on a grassy ramp to get the side-runner in Bachelors finishing crack (last runner on right in photo), then steps back left to take the big wall, starting towards the right-hand side and moving up and left to finish. I skipped the Bachelors start, partly because I wanted that chimney side-runner, but otherwise makes no real difference to the climbing.