Sheffield Area
Ladybower Area
Stanage
BurbageValley
Millstone Area
Derwent Edges
Chatsworth Area
Southern Crags
Cioch Bay
On the left side of the bay are some unpopular routes. They start
up the unsavoury grassy ramp. The belayer is best located at the
bottom of this and out of the line of fire!
1
The Pittsburgh Enigma.
hlΩ
E4 5c
The bold angular arete past a couple of old pegs.
FA. Paul Mitchell 1985
2
Wuthering Crack .
slΩ
HVS 5a
The steep crack in the left wall of the bay leads strenuously past
a huge suspect triangular block. The finish is loose.
FA. Alan Clarke, John Loy early 1960s.
3
Evening Premiere .
1
flΩ
HVS 5a
Take the thin left-trending crack to exit as for the last route. A
direct finish isn't much harder or much more stable.
FA. Mick Fowler 1976
4
Svelt .
1
tlΩ
HVS 5a
Low in the grade and well protected. The slippery slabby groove
up the left edge of the slab gives good climbing to a ledge at its
top. Continue up the left-hand of the two steep grooves. Care
needed with the exit. The right-hand groove is harder and dirtier.
FA. Al Parker, Martin Boysen 1962
5
The Snivelling Shits.
2
fhΩ
E5 6a
The polished razor-edged iron bits (above a lurking flake) lead
left then back right to the top of the slab. Escape via
Great Slab
.
The only gear is a large cam above all difficulties. Stiff boots are
a great help.
FA. Jonathan Lagoe late 1970s. Called Slideshow. It took over 20 years for
his ascent to be credited. By then the name given by the second ascent
party had stuck.
6
Election Special.
1
tΩ
E3 6a
This is a bit of an eliminate and requires distant side runners.
FA. Dominic Staniforth 1986
7
The Moronic Chippings.
hΩ
VS 4a
A line of small polished and spaced chipped holds (shades of
Yorkshire Grit) hopefully lead all the way up the slab, Finish up
or down
Great Slab
.
FA. Bruce Burton, Martin Stokes 1961
1
2
3
4
5
7
8
9
6
0
q
e
Descent
w
340
Great Slab
A fine sheet of quarried grit with a nice set of routes.
Great Slab
is one of the best lower grade routes in the
quarry and there are a selection of harder climbs. The
bay tends to be green after rain. The crusty walls up left
and right see less action.
Approach (see map on page 333) -
Walk through the
quarry, up the slope left of
Crewcut
then round past the
cave of
Lyons Corner House
.
Millstone
Great Slab
RF*
10 min
28m
