Southern Crags
Chatsworth Area
Derwent Edges
Millstone Area
BurbageValley
Stanage
Ladybower Area
Sheffield Area
Cioch Bay
r
Plexity.
3
sΩ
HVS 5a
A class act with a big feel. The fine steep crack in the centre of
the wall leads through a series of bulges to a ledge out on the
right. Balance back left above the roof and sprint for the top.
FA. Joe Brown 1957
Next are three grassy climbs - more traffic would help.
t
Remembrance Day.
2
sΩ
VS 4c
Up the main groove at the back of the bay to ledges and a finish
up the groove above the grass ledge. Steep and worthwhile
climbing on jugs and jams with good gear along the way.
FA. Ted Howard 1960
y
Day Dream.
1
lΩ
VS 4c
Climb the rib right of the main corner, then thin cracks and a
shallow groove to a ledge. Follow the continuation crack in the
wall to a loose finish. Often a bit green and grassy!
FA. John Loy early 1960s
u
Rainy Day.
lΩ
VS 4b
At the right side of the ledge is a crack in a groove. Climb this
to a ledge, then the continuation, past a couple of tiny grassy
ledges, to the final steep crack of
Day Dream
. Becoming
overgrown.
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s
i
Commix .
1
tslΩ
E2 5c
A good line, pumpy but with decent gear. Avoid the lower groove
to a ledge, then follow its continuation until the thin crack on
the right can be reached. Up this to a ledge then finish up a
loose groove. Continuing up the main groove is the loose and
neglected
Southern Comfort, E3 5c
.
FA. John Loy (4 pegs) late 1950s. FFA. (Both ways) John Stevenson 1976
o
Top Loader.
3
tfΩ
E7 6c
The groove and hairline cracks to the left of
Saville Street
are
climbed until it is possible to trend right to reach the arete of
Saville Street.
Step back left and make more hard moves to an
interesting finish. Pegs, bolts and some normal gear protect.
FA. Mike Lea 2001
p
Drifter .
1
thΩ
E7 6c
Climb the arete to some pockets and gear. The arete above gives
a desperate sloping finish. Finish up the next route, or abseil off.
FA. Thomas de Gay 2000
a
Saville Street .
3
fΩ
E3 6a
The superb but tough finger-crack in the right wall of the bay.
Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning
crack to crucial moves into a sloping niche. Exit steeply to easy
but broken ground.
Photo on page 335
.
FA. Reg Pillinger early 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1975
s
Soho Sally .
1
hΩ
E1 5b
Climb the flake to ledges then follow the shallow groove above
(small gear) until it becomes necessary to swing onto the
exposed left arete. Care is required with the grassy finish.
FA. Geoff Birtles 1975
o
p
a
s
Descent
337
North Bay
Millstone
28m
