Lyons Corner
House - p.342
Southern Crags
Chatsworth Area
Derwent Edges
Millstone Area
BurbageValley
Stanage
Ladybower Area
Sheffield Area
Twikker Area
8
Great Slab .
2
lΩ
HS 4b
Climb the slippery crack which splits the right-hand side of the
slab as it runs leftwards - poorly protected. Move back slightly
right and then make a short traverse to a good ledge above the
centre of the slab (possible belay). Climb the corner-crack to
a ledge then finish direct with care. It is also possible to move
right round the arete to a chimney with a loose exit.
FA. Alan Maskery 1952. FFA. Al Parker 1957
9
Sex Dwarves.
1
tfΩ
f6B+
The right edge of the slab has a series of tiny holds that are
becoming ever more polished. Keep heading left to claim an E4
solo, or escape off right.
FA. Mark Millar 1982
0
Lorica. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
hΩ
VS 4c
Climb the delicate thin crack near the right edge of the slab and
the short-lived but gripping curving flake above which definitely
looks detached! Finish up the short crack.
q
Bun Run.
Ω
HVS 5a
Follow
Lorica
to the top of the slab then continue up the
awkward groove directly above to a finish up the chimney.
FA. Al Evans 1969
w
Cake Walk .
Ω
S 4a
A bit aimless though the easiest way up the face. Climb the easy
crack on the right of the slab then traverse left to join (possible
stance) and finish up
Great Slab
.
e
Windrete. . . . . .
2
hrlΩ
E2 5b
The impressive and well-named blowy arete has low gear (small
wires) and mostly good holds. It proves to be bold and airy with
some suspect rock.
FA. Al Evans 1969
r
Breeze Mugger .
trhlΩ
E5 6b
Climb to a break (gear) then make hard moves up before moving
left to a finish on the arete of
Windrete
.
FA. Paul Dearden 1990
t
Meeze Brugger .
1
fhlΩ
E5 6b
Climb the wall first left then right. The hard bit is standing on the
only good hold on the lower wall. Finish up suspect rock.
FA. Ron Fawcett 1984
y
Eros.
2
slΩ
E1 5b
Low in the grade and good, though some of the rock is a bit
suspect. The steep crack has good jams and runners to a step
left where a tricky finger-crack leads to a looser finish. The
original finish was up the tottery wall above the prominent scar.
FFA. Paul Grayson 1969
8
w
e
r
t
y
Descent
341
Great Slab
Millstone
RF*
10 min
15m
