Sheffield Area
Ladybower Area
Stanage
BurbageValley
Millstone Area
Derwent Edges
Chatsworth Area
Southern Crags
4
Satan's Slit.
1
sΩ
HVS 5b
The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left
and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and
pumpy, it is often dirty and can feel hard for the grade.
FAA. John Loy 1964
5
Gates of Mordor.
2
sΩ
E3 5c
The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route
swallows medium cams by the tonne and, although the initial
groove is a grovel, the crux is right at the very top.
FA. Hank Pasquill 1969
6
Pin Prick.
fsΩ
E2 5c
The thin crack in the front of the pillar never gets done.
7
Hacklespur.
1
kΩ
HVS 5b
Millstone's answer to
The Peapod
is worth doing. Although it
doesn't have the cachet of Curbar's classic, it is just as awkward.
FAA. Alan Clarke 1960. FFA. John Loy (2nd man on the aided ascent) 1962
8
Cauldron Crack .
1
flΩ
E3 5c
Climb the right side of the arete then swing left and follow the
slanting, fingery crack to easier ground. Worthwhile though the
start is both bold and a bit loose.
FFA. Mick Fowler 1976
1
Brindle.
lΩ
VS 4c
The left-most route on the wall is neglected and grassy.
2
Scrimsel.
lΩ
VS 4c
The long crack. A decent line but crusty and rarely done.
3
Brimstone.
2
sΩ
E2 5b
From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past
plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough.
FFA. Henry Barber 1973
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Descent
i
q
334
North Bay
For most of the year this is a gloomy spot at the left-hand
extremity of the cliff. It only sees the sun late on in the
summer although that makes it a good venue to escape
from the heat. The routes include some excellent steep
cracks and some more recent horrors.
Approach (see map on page 333) -
The area can be
reached by walking through the whole of the rest of the
quarry. A speedier option is following the quarry-top fence
and descending into the final bay.
18m
Millstone
North Bay
TF*@
&
10 min
