Southern Crags
Chatsworth Area
Derwent Edges
Millstone Area
BurbageValley
Stanage
Ladybower Area
Sheffield Area
7
Mayday .
1
tΩ
HVS 5a
Up the balancy arete of the Cioch (hard to start) to its tip, then
finish up the exposed arete of
Cioch Corner
.
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s
8
Supra Direct.
1
fΩ
HVS 5b
The thin peg-scarred crack splitting the front of the Cioch proves
tricky at the bulge. No escaping out right!
FA. Mike James 1959. FFA. (nearly) Pete Brayshaw 1975
9
The Hacker.
1
fΩ
VS 4c
The short curving crack just to the right is a slight variation on
the previous climb that soon eases. Finish up the exposed arete.
The easier routes to the right have some reasonable climbing,
but protection can be sparse and the loose rock needs care.
0
Close Shave .
1
lΩ
S 4a
Climb cracks right of the Cioch, trending left to reach the ledge
and a belay. Finish up the deep groove at the back of the ledge
or, better and more worthy of the star, up the arete.
FA. Alan Clarke 1956
q
Boomerang.
1
lΩ
S 4a
Left of the main groove, follow the line of cracks and corners left
then right to a ledge. Escape rightwards with great care.
FA. John Loy early 1960s
w
Brumal.
lΩ
VS 4c
A direct line with some pleasant moves and a steep finale.
FA. John Loy early 1960s
In the main angle at the back of the bay are three abandoned
lines offering a mixture of rock and grass.
e
Eartha .
2
Ω
HS 4a
Start just right of a wide crack and climb the groove to a ledge.
Move right and climb the pleasant flake-crack up the slabby face.
r
Only Just .
1
hΩ
E2 5b
Start up
Eartha
then head up the delicate and poorly-protected
scoop to tricky final moves. Low in the grade when 100% dry.
FA. Ernie Marshall 1959
t
F.A.T.D. .
1
hlΩ
HS 4a
The right arete of the wall past a couple of heathery ledges.
FA. Steve C. 1968. The name reflects the bored nature of the FA team!
r
t
e
339
Cioch Bay
Millstone
Cioch Bay
The main feature of the bay is the narrow tower of the
Cioch leaning against its left side and, just left again, the
steep classic jamming crack of
Dexterity
. The right wall
has some pleasant offerings although the exits all need a
careful approach; the top here is invariably loose.
Approach (see map on page 333) -
The quickest
access is to take the path above the quarry and descend
just before the North Bay - tricky to locate on first
acquaintance. Walking through the quarry takes a little
longer but gives you a good look at the place.
RF*
&
12 min
18m
Great Slab
