In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to tmawer)
> [...]
>
> I agree, as somebody who climbed often with ED, I still have huge respect for his first ascent of DOWH.
Respect indeed Al. This was my first route in years where the outcome was unknown for me. I suffered a growing sense of doom from the moment I arrived at the first stance, staring across at that headwall of the final pitch. It got even worse when hanging in concrete chimney as you are closer to it but still can't fathom out the way across it. Sunday was red hot and flat seas and one can only imagine how damp conditions, a bit of wind and a big sea would change the atmosphere. Magnificent route, up there with the very best I've done and I've been round the block.
As the classic rock book describes the Tower Ridge 'rule book' perhaps hard rock should should have a 'rule book' for DOWH -
Both climbers should be solid, comfortable with exposure and have plenty of HVS routes under their belts. Both should be competant at abbing and prussiking and at least one of the climbers should be experienced on sea cliffs. Good ropework is vital, IIRC we used 6 sling draws on that last pitch, rope drag would be unthinkable when pulling into that final groove. Helmets go without saying and both should be armed with a mobile phone. Make sure someone knows where you are and what route you are planning, it was only a few weeks ago since the bodies of a team were tragically recovered from the sea at Gogarth. Gear up and leave your sacks at the end of the route and walk round to the abb point, the approach from the prom to the abb point is extremely precarious and involves down climbing a rocky gully bit plus you'll be glad of a drink too as you finish rather than having to walk back to the start for your gear <like we had to!>
You fancy a look at Puffin when I'm back from the USA then knee bar?