UKC

Italian web site Toscoclimb (in Italian) is reporting that Mauro Calibani has given Dreamtime yet another ascent.

http://www.toscoclimb.it/index.htm

I can't figure out what the details of the report are beyond the fact that I suspect he agrees with the 8c grade, and that it was cold when he climbed it.

Alan

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:

If Malc Smith reckons that Dreamtime is 8b+ and Mauro Calibani reckons 8c, does that mean that Malcom will now remotely downgrade (from his armchair) Tonino '78 to 8c from Calibani's proposed 8c+?

Grades...what would we do without them?

Mick

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:


climb more...

In reply to Ian Hill:

Talk less?

In reply to Ian Hill:

You've really got a downer on grades Ian. It is very American......don't tell us you are also a "lifestyle buddist"....that's the latest rage here.

Twas at the SnHappies yesterday and I was bouldering to the sounds of a Japanese Zen Flute. (don't ask me what grade I haven't a clue, but I climbed until I could climb no more)

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:


I was always a fashion leader...


Isn't that what it's all about? One hard problem or 50 easy problems..all give a good day...

In reply to Ian Hill:

You don't have to end EVERY sentence with a load of dots...

...

In reply to Anonymous:
Get a life.........

Dreamtime is(by general concensus) standard font 8c.....the testpiece at the grade. (forgetting Malcs opinion for the moment) So how come so many people can climb it? Is there really 9 or 10 climbers who can all really climb the hardest boulder problem in the world, or is malc right, is it only 8b+?

Why does it see so many repeats? What is it about that particular problem that draws the crowds and means it sees the repeats? Is it just because it's an easy (relatively speaking) one to work? is it quite simple when it comes down to it? Or so peolpe just "like" the problem, or is it becasue it's an accessable area?

Who knows, it just seems there's a lot of people that can climb 8c, which poses the question is it really 8c (it has only taken malc a relatively few attempts to get it, but it's taken him over 10 years[on and off] to get his 8b+

Who knows.....

its easy to lie about..........
Ha ha ha

In reply to steve dunning:

coward....

whoever you are

The other thing is, there's video footage of at least 3 of the attempts, how many of the other 8c's in the world have been caught on film?

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Ive seen a clip of someone doing dreamtime...awesome..but

looks easier than gaskins traverse that he does on the stick it video..!

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

The worlds top climbers throw themselves (test themselves) at it because it was the worlds first boulder problem given Font 8c (there are several more now including some proposed 8C+'s), it was first climbed by one of the worlds top and most experienced boulderers, Fred Nicole, and by all accounts it is beautiful.

So that is the attraction. It was first climbed in 2000, three years ago, has had lots of attempts and as you say more than handfull of repeats by the worlds elite climbers who are on par with Nicoles ability.....Graham, Sharma, Zangler, Smith, Dunning et al.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

I would also suspect that, because of it's length compared to some of the more recent 8c additions, the individual moves are perhaps more managable and so all (understatement) that's needed are the right levels of power/endurance to complete the problem.

e.g. compare Dreamtime to Gaskins new 8c, where he was reporting a success rate of about 1% on one of the moves. Particularly when you have to travel to get to the problem, you'd probably target something where you've a better than 1% chance of success...

This is obviously in addition to the quality of the problem proving an attraction etc.

In reply to Stuart S:

OK, now I now this is a big old can of worms...

...but shouldn't a problem that yields to 1% of tries because of a particularly horendous move be graded harder than a problem that yields to more than 1% of tries in its entirity?

In reply to Alasdair Fulton: There is a video of Bernd doing New Base Line on udini.com. the video is called pastries and power. also shows dreamtime, very nice

Apparently Dreamtime had yet another ascent on Saturday, by James Litz, according to UKBouldering -

http://www.ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1787

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Could the future definition of punter be 'one who hasn't climbed Dreamtime'?