that could post/email me the description for True Grip on the Cromlech?
Would be much appreciated,
Thanks very much
Anonymous14 Aug 2008
In reply to Aly:
Start as for left wall.Climb up for about 15feet then pull out rightwards.Go directly up the wall to join resurrection at a faded thread runner.Step left and after a long reach for a pocket, gain the girdle ledge. The leftward curving flake above is climbed with ones feet on it.Where the flake dissappears make a reachy move for a pocket and so to left wall.Continue up left wall to finish direct.
In reply to shingsowa: No, perfectly safe behind my desk at the moment. I think my OP would have been a bit more urgent-sounding if I was stuck on a ledge!
In reply to tonanf: Would be hilarious if someone was asking for the route description for Flying Buttress, and someone accidentally sent the one for Lord of the Flies
Anonymous14 Aug 2008
In reply to Marc C:
and it would be astoundingly astonishingly incredible if they went on to do it, good grief this is rocktalk surely not a shitcom
In reply to Anonymous: There have been many desperate routes established by climbers who thought they were simply repeating much easier routes. I find this Mr Magoo the Climber phenomenon quite amusing.
In reply to Marc C:
I would be interested to hear of (m)any new routes that have been established in the way you describe, especially any that have such a wild grade discrepancy that you suggest. I wonder if you need to undergo sphincter tightening so that you talk less and more importantly less rubbish falls out of you when you do. yours Mr Magoo
> (In reply to Marc C)
> I would be interested to hear of (m)any new routes that have been established in the way you describe, especially any that have such a wild grade discrepancy that you suggest.
Wasn't Longland's route "Javelin Blade" (E1) first ascended when he mistakenly thought he was following "Javelin Buttress" (VS)? A pretty wild grade discrepancy for 1930.
Anonymous14 Aug 2008
In reply to Solaris:
the discrepancy there would be only two grades and being as vs was pretty full on at that time the discrepancy is not that great, i would imagine that lots of vs routes from that era now have higher grades attributed to them but diff and E6 that is a huge difference
In reply to Anonymous: Had I world enough and time (and inclination) to research instances of people climbing harder routes by mistake, I know I could furnish you with many examples (though I DO believe the Javelin Blade example is a good one) - as I'm sure many more historically-informed folk on here could do so much better than me. Of course, no one has climbed an E6 in mistake for a Diff - but I think you know I meant that as a light-hearted flight of fancy.
Walsh's Groove instead of Sheaf, for example. That's E3 instead of VS (giving WG E3 on its own, rther generously).
jcm
Anonymous14 Aug 2008
In reply to All:
Do 'light hearted flights of fancy' really deserve discussion in 'rocktalk'? Anyway off 'down the pub'and then 'chat' for some humourous banter now. Mr Magoo
Press Release Alpkit and Outside Bank Holiday Hathersage Tent Show 4-5th May
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...