In reply to Wilbur: For singlepitch. One for a belay plate, one on a big sling and sometimes one other. I use the one that the big sling is on to clove hitch stuff to my harness.
You have 3 anchor points for redundancy, so I don't see why using a single snapgate on each is an issue. Unless as I previously said, the gate is likely to be opened on something.
In reply to Wilbur:
Depends on whats at the top!
A few small trees? I'll bring the req. number of slings with screwgates to match. One bomber tree, right by the edge? some tat, no binders needed.
Multipitch? I might take some tat for equalising, but probobly just a cuopla 120 slings and one spare biner, for an equalisation point.
I take a couple of HMSs and a couple of normal screwgates. Maybe an extra screwgate if I think I'll use a sling on the route. But then I'm usually happy to delay off two bomber anchors.
I'm sure Oli is right that snapgates are safe enough at the belay anchors most of the time, but I use screwgates or doubled snapgates where possible. It's what I was taught and it soothes my paranoia. Surely the weight of an extra screwgate or two isn't that important?
Edelrid golden gate screwgates. They weigh in at 45g, 24x8x8 kN, so you can use them for example to rack slings on your harness for practically the same weight as wiregates and you'll never run out of screwgates when you need one.
In a multi point anchor system especially when your weight is on it there is virtually no movement in the system. Therefore the 'biners will stay roughly where you put them. You don't NEED to use screw gates in the anchor except at the master/focal point. If you are trying to save weight then opposed 'biners is just more weight.
You would only need lockers when the gate could be opened against the rock.
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