Is scratching directions on Grooved arête basically considered fair game now?
Noticed that some moron left an arrow and the words "Jon, this way" on the ledge just before the knights move pitch (or something to that effect, I meant to take a photo but forgot when my partner arrived). Was aware of the two "GA" markings but this looks fresh.
Surely by that point it on the route it would be impossible to get lost unless you're particularly thick.
In reply to JHiley: I've been climbing for over 40 years now, and it saddens me to see the level some climbers have descended to
regarding the protection of, and ethics on crags. Chipping, scrawling, gardening etc. are becoming the norm.
Without etiquette guidance it will only get worse.
The 'GA' has been there for many years and is one of the first bits of crag graffiti I ever saw.
In reply to brianjcooper: Do you really think it's getting worse? As you say the original scratches have been there a long time. Likewise I can think of very few chipping incidents/accusations in recent times (other than the odd isolated incident that seems more akin to vandalism than a erosion of ethics). In fact to say chipping is becoming the norm is absolute rubbish
Sadly yes. Last year I was told to F'ck off! when telling a group, with climbing gear, that a BBQ under a Stanage buttress was not a good idea. Maybe the 'chipping' comment was a bit strong though, but I've seen it.
> In fact to say chipping is becoming the norm is absolute rubbish
Totally agree. People generally use glue these days. And to be fair most newly developed crags generally need it just to have something solid to pull on (thinking limestone here).
> Sadly yes. Last year I was told to F'ck off! when telling a group, with climbing gear, that a BBQ under a Stanage buttress was not a good idea. Maybe the 'chipping' comment was a bit strong though, but I've seen it.
Maybe you were told to f*ck off as there is nothing wrong with having a BBQ (assuming its off the grass)?
In reply to ianstevens: Nothing wrong with a BBQ that's billowing smoke for all wardens and farmers to see on tinder dry moorland?
Funny thing. All the climbers nearby agreed with me. Never mind, when our access is stopped we can really bitch.
It's dedication carrying it all, up there. I'm constantly amazed at th beer bottles and cans in remote places. The youth of today know no boundaries.
Doesn't moorland do well with an occasional fire?
Common sense only makes sense if you know better. Thankfully most know better.
We often use BBQ trays on the crags. As long as you have a stone slab to put them on they are safe and usually keep the midges down as well. I don't see a problem as long as you leave no trace.
You have got to be joking!
A smelly, smokey bbq!
I really need that blowing all over me.
I'm guessing you'll be sitting upwind of it?
I'll tell you what-
If you sit so it's blowing right into your face I'll accept that it's O.K.
If not then have some respect and leave the thing at home!
I have to say the other day when I was at stanage there were a few different bbq's going on and aside from suddenly making me hungry while on the crux of my route I have to say it is at odds with my personal view of climbing mainly because it detracts from the adventure and escapism I associate with climbing, but if they are leaving no trace its up to them I suppose, I'll just find somewhere else to climb.
> Sadly yes. Last year I was told to F'ck off! when telling a group, with climbing gear, that a BBQ under a Stanage buttress was not a good idea.
Shocking behavior and a damning indictment of the irresponsibility of the younger generation of climbers. They should stick to dropping acid and then trying to hit 100mph down the Pass in a Bedford van like in the old days.
I can't say I've ever come across any climbers with a bbq at the crag. If it doesn't leave a mess I doubt I'd be too annoyed by it although I suppose the fire risk makes it a bit irresponsible. I've seen a lot of used ones lying around but generally assumed this was from non-climbers. Drones, shitting in the descent gullys, littering and reserving routes for ages with ropes etc are all worse IMO and much more common at Stanage.
Regarding the new scratches on Grooved arête, I'm aware that the old GA markings were there for a long time. My worry is that the existence of the old makings made someone feel that scratching a direct message to his incompetent mate was just fine. The more this stuff appears the more people will think its ok to add their own.
I think a bbq and a beer is ok. I wouldn't light one directly at the crag base but I don't see the problem with a post climb bbq when its quiet. I've had several at millstone. The disposable ones don't send off embers that are going to start a fire. As long as you take everything away with you and use a rock to keep it off the grass what's the problem?
In reply to Somerset swede basher:
I would to agree with you, except at times of serious fire risk (all but the grimmest summers have at least a few days, sometimes weeks when it would be a *really* bad idea).
I must admit though, my first reaction to seeing a disposable bbq out in the Peak does tend to be one of hostility and suspicion just because so many of the damned things seem to get left lying around it's hard not to immediately assume that the folk using them are the sort of dickheads who'll leave a load of litter behind when they're gone.
> Climbed at Brassington recently? I wonder why not?
Not since 2011. And the reason is that I've climbed most of the routes there that aren't currently buried by vegetation. Not sure what that's got to do with CRoW though, they're not on access land (and in any case I've never been turned away)
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