So out for a dog walk today in North Pembrokeshire along the coast, and I spotted a new crag, it looks like it has a lot of potential, plenty of gear on the climb, and it not too hard, I spotted 4 or 5 obvious routes that look worth climbing, and I'm sure better climbers than I could find more again.
It is covered with lichen that would need cleaning, and it could do with a belay stake at the top.
I've never found my own crag before, just climbed what's in the book, but this particular one looks too cool not to. However I am concerned about my own actions ecologically, is there someone I can check with to make sure it's cool to develop?
I don't know much about lichens, it's the type that I call old mans pubes, it's kinda bluey green fuzz, not sure of the real name for it, but I understand some lichens are more important than others. Is there a list of lichens that are protected?
As for the belay stake it needs at the top is it just a case of taking a bit of rebar and a sledgehammer and putting it in myself, or do I ask the BMC to do it? Are there liability issues? Who owns the land on the sea side of the coast path, is it the national park?
Finally, once all this is sorted out and the crag is developed, how do I go about getting the routes known for others to climb, do I call up the guy who wrote the local guidebook, or do the BMC keep a list somewhere.
If someone could answer these questions I've got I'd be happy to follow all advice, I just figured I'd ask before doing anything on my own, I'm keen to do the work to develop the crag and to do the first ascents of the routes I've spotted, but I wouldn't like to commit any massive faux-pas or anything like that, I've only been climbing a couple of years, and while I'm keen to keep within the climbing ethics, I could do with a friendly point in the right direction of what those ethics actually are. I don't like to ask so many questions, but I'd rather do things properly.
Also which drill is best to use to drill for the bolts? (I'm really, really just kidding!)