In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
Hi Alan. We climbed the two new lines on Main Wall today. Black Tide seemed solid and fair at the grade, but Porcellana seemed a notch harder, and unfortunately we encountered quite a bit of loose rock - in particular just below bolt 2 and again on the slight rib left of the last bolt, plus various crimps in the upper corner which just crumbled away under the fingers Also, when seconding my partner was doing the final tricky move and pulled off a big projecting hold, which landed her on the rope and nearly brained me. I know we expect new routes to take a little while to settle down, but this one seemed more than usually in need of a proper clean. Might be an idea to give it some extra attention - before someone gets squashed.
I also looked more closely at the N-facing wall to the right (re the missing line, what lower-offs are shared by what routes, etc). I'll let Paul know details for UKC; but if you're not already completely sorted, and if it would be of any use, I'm happy to send you info, too.