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nabeelfarid07 Aug 2015
Hi guys,
I am going to Lofoten in Norway for a week in mid August for hiking and cycling. However I have found out that its also one of the best places for rock climbing. As I have only got experienced with Sports climbing, I am unable to find any Sports climbing routes there on the web. They seem to be all trad routes.
There is also a guide called Lofoten Rock but I wonder if its all to do with Trad Routes?
In reply to nabeelfarid: it's predominantly a trad area, but there a few places with sport routes in the guide. Who do you plan to climb with? If you meet anyone there they will likely have trad experience
There are a few sport crags near henningsvar that I remember, however, I remember them being fairly hard..like 7's and up. That said we went to the crags because they were apparently so steep they stay dry in the rain so there may be less steep venues with a better spread of grades. We were using the Lofoten Rock guide book so there are sport climbs in, but it is much more aimed at the trad climber.
I will be climbing with a couple of friends who are into sports climbing as well. None of us have any trad experience, although we have used the protections to build anchors. Yes thats a good idea actually to find anyone there who got trad experience.
There are several sport crags, Eggum for steep stuff and Finnvika, Urdstabben, Sandvika and Juniorveggen all have some decent routes (well Juniorveggan is a bit crap). It isn't what the place is about to be honest but you could pass a few days.
They are all in the book though I don't think it is available in the UK any more. They deffo have plenty of copies in the climbing shop in Henningsvaer,
What about going bouldering? There are some good places for that. This is a good source of info for trad, sport and bouldering. http://27crags.com/areas/lofoten
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