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Paraphrasing another recent topic.
Mine would probably all be on Slate: Poetry Pink, Splitstream and p1 of Central Sadness.
Post edited at 15:06
In reply to harold walmsley:
About a 50 foot run out above an itsy bitsy teeny weenie Black Diamond microwire as the only protection on the lower section of the E1 5a classic Satans Slip at Lundy! Focused the mind somewhat...
About a 50 foot run out above an itsy bitsy teeny weenie Black Diamond microwire as the only protection on the lower section of the E1 5a classic Satans Slip at Lundy! Focused the mind somewhat...
4
In reply to harold walmsley:
P2 of central pillar on esk buttress, not necessarily the longest but one of those rare moments when you see youre rope disappearing into space and love every second
P2 of central pillar on esk buttress, not necessarily the longest but one of those rare moments when you see youre rope disappearing into space and love every second
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
The second pitch of The Rib on Craig Lloer. Amazing climbing on an arete composed of tiny flakes and no meaningful gear anywhere until you are nearly at the belay.
The second pitch of The Rib on Craig Lloer. Amazing climbing on an arete composed of tiny flakes and no meaningful gear anywhere until you are nearly at the belay.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Left Wall (Brimham) E5 6a!! Such a great experience climbing above those RP's on the 6a crux moves
Left Wall (Brimham) E5 6a!! Such a great experience climbing above those RP's on the 6a crux moves
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
I managed a pretty big run out on Saxon at Carn Kenidjack - must have missed gear as it hasn't got an especially bold reputation. Eve at Shepherd's was pretty sparse for gear on the second pitch, pretty steady climbing though, also the first pitch of Act of God in North Pembs. I had to take a deep breath before "going for it" through a blank looking section, but holds were good and reassuring gear eventually arrived.
The feeling of relief when you get a bomber piece in after running it out is fantastic, all the doubts: "how good was your last runner? how far below you is it? how close is the ground? if the first runner fails is the next piece OK? will the stress of a big fall shatter the surrounding rock regardless of the apparently well seated runner?"
are suddenly erased in a rush of elation - "Thank **** - I'm not going to die"
I managed a pretty big run out on Saxon at Carn Kenidjack - must have missed gear as it hasn't got an especially bold reputation. Eve at Shepherd's was pretty sparse for gear on the second pitch, pretty steady climbing though, also the first pitch of Act of God in North Pembs. I had to take a deep breath before "going for it" through a blank looking section, but holds were good and reassuring gear eventually arrived.
The feeling of relief when you get a bomber piece in after running it out is fantastic, all the doubts: "how good was your last runner? how far below you is it? how close is the ground? if the first runner fails is the next piece OK? will the stress of a big fall shatter the surrounding rock regardless of the apparently well seated runner?"
are suddenly erased in a rush of elation - "Thank **** - I'm not going to die"
Post edited at 15:38
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
About 8m on Spartan slab (vs) fall would take you over an edge to the right.
Felt pretty bold friction climbing and pinscars.
About 8m on Spartan slab (vs) fall would take you over an edge to the right.
Felt pretty bold friction climbing and pinscars.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Quite a few
One that immediately came to mind was Sarcophagus on Gable Crag. A very windy day and I had to wait for each gust to subside before committing to each move, the crux is very delicate 5c starting about 20ft out from gear.
Edge of Eriador on East Buttress is another: the rope is out of sight round the arete and the only real gear is just above the belay. George Smith fell off the crux and ended up well below the belay.
The Boulderer on Cloggy: took a 70 footer when a hold snapped! Felt quite lonely heading back up to finish things off. 3rd ascent I think. Mind you all those routes on the Boulder feel lonely and runout.
Quite a few
One that immediately came to mind was Sarcophagus on Gable Crag. A very windy day and I had to wait for each gust to subside before committing to each move, the crux is very delicate 5c starting about 20ft out from gear.
Edge of Eriador on East Buttress is another: the rope is out of sight round the arete and the only real gear is just above the belay. George Smith fell off the crux and ended up well below the belay.
The Boulderer on Cloggy: took a 70 footer when a hold snapped! Felt quite lonely heading back up to finish things off. 3rd ascent I think. Mind you all those routes on the Boulder feel lonely and runout.
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
Heretic, Goat Crag, Borrowdale.
Heretic, Goat Crag, Borrowdale.
In reply to Bob:
Great minds, eh? I remember being very relieved to find an RP2 just before the last couple of moves into The Tomb.
Ten Years After was the other one that I thought of - 10m or so above the good wires on Main Event. Brilliant!
> One that immediately came to mind was Sarcophagus on Gable Crag.
Great minds, eh? I remember being very relieved to find an RP2 just before the last couple of moves into The Tomb.
Ten Years After was the other one that I thought of - 10m or so above the good wires on Main Event. Brilliant!
1
In reply to Pagan:
Definitely intense!
Ah yes, TYA. Great route. A tale: a friend was top-roping/soloing it on his own by having a rope hanging down with knots in it at the same points as the gear. He abseiled down on another rope, climbed to the first knot loop and clipped it to his harness' belay loop. When he got to the second piece he clipped in to that and unclipped the first. At the third knot he got the sequence wrong and unclipped the second knot before clipping in to the third at which point the rope slid away from him across the slab! The rest of the route was rather scary.
Definitely intense!
Ah yes, TYA. Great route. A tale: a friend was top-roping/soloing it on his own by having a rope hanging down with knots in it at the same points as the gear. He abseiled down on another rope, climbed to the first knot loop and clipped it to his harness' belay loop. When he got to the second piece he clipped in to that and unclipped the first. At the third knot he got the sequence wrong and unclipped the second knot before clipping in to the third at which point the rope slid away from him across the slab! The rest of the route was rather scary.
In reply to harold walmsley:
I think the most enjoyable was central buttress e1 5a at Avon. Plenty of others but that was my favourite
I think the most enjoyable was central buttress e1 5a at Avon. Plenty of others but that was my favourite
In reply to harold walmsley:
Best or worst, hard to differentiate! In winter, plenty of full rope length jobs but mitigated by little chance of falling and a softish landing.
Probably the most serious was when inadvertently doing a new route in Icebox Canyon, Morocco. Having misread the guide I climbed good, steep and well protected rock to just below half height. I committed to the slabby wall above, only to find it totally unprotected apart from an extremely hopeful prusik loop draped over a blob. The climbing wasn't that hard but it was delicate and irreversible, quickly becoming a real head game as the danger increased (will I deck from 40m if I slip?) and the wall became mossy towards the top. Having only just come back to trad climbing after a few years off, I was quite relieved at my ability to hold it together.
Best or worst, hard to differentiate! In winter, plenty of full rope length jobs but mitigated by little chance of falling and a softish landing.
Probably the most serious was when inadvertently doing a new route in Icebox Canyon, Morocco. Having misread the guide I climbed good, steep and well protected rock to just below half height. I committed to the slabby wall above, only to find it totally unprotected apart from an extremely hopeful prusik loop draped over a blob. The climbing wasn't that hard but it was delicate and irreversible, quickly becoming a real head game as the danger increased (will I deck from 40m if I slip?) and the wall became mossy towards the top. Having only just come back to trad climbing after a few years off, I was quite relieved at my ability to hold it together.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Curving Arete (E4 5c) - Cloggy, superb route, and actually better protection than I expected!
Curving Arete (E4 5c) - Cloggy, superb route, and actually better protection than I expected!
In reply to harold walmsley:
Dunno about "best", but the 30m Bat corner is still indelibly etched on my mind after nigh on 45 years. A bit wet, unfit, last bit of gear under the little halfway roof and totally knacked & committed for the entire bit above the roof. A wrong decision to go for it really. Wonder how many of those decisions we make and get away with?
Dunno about "best", but the 30m Bat corner is still indelibly etched on my mind after nigh on 45 years. A bit wet, unfit, last bit of gear under the little halfway roof and totally knacked & committed for the entire bit above the roof. A wrong decision to go for it really. Wonder how many of those decisions we make and get away with?
In reply to harold walmsley:
Pulling the crux of Silly arete, and running it out on that top slab to the next placement is super cool! That, and anything in Madagascar... 55m pitch with 4 bolts? Great stuff!
Pulling the crux of Silly arete, and running it out on that top slab to the next placement is super cool! That, and anything in Madagascar... 55m pitch with 4 bolts? Great stuff!
In reply to harold walmsley:
The scariest two were definitely Marche ou Creve at Eldorado and Big Business at Upton Slabs.
There was no danger of hitting the ground off Marche ou Creve, it was just the thought of sliding over the horizon like Barry Sheen (without the leathers).
On Big Business the ground is a distinct possibility, and it's mostly composed of razor sharp shale blades...
The scariest two were definitely Marche ou Creve at Eldorado and Big Business at Upton Slabs.
There was no danger of hitting the ground off Marche ou Creve, it was just the thought of sliding over the horizon like Barry Sheen (without the leathers).
On Big Business the ground is a distinct possibility, and it's mostly composed of razor sharp shale blades...
In reply to Cheese Monkey: That was the one that came first to my mind. Demanded a bit of focus on a cold January afternoon, but I thought the given grade of HVS 4c was fair (this was some time ago).
T.
T.
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
This route was really special for me, 50 meters and 5 runners (all bolts or bomber cams) Balancing up and arête over a lake the colour of Guinness in total silence. Just awesome
Kantti (E2 5b)
This route was really special for me, 50 meters and 5 runners (all bolts or bomber cams) Balancing up and arête over a lake the colour of Guinness in total silence. Just awesome
Kantti (E2 5b)
In reply to james.slater:
For me it was the runout from that placement to the one right near the top that was more 'memorable'! Great climbing though, what a route.
For me it was the runout from that placement to the one right near the top that was more 'memorable'! Great climbing though, what a route.
In reply to harold walmsley:
The Gram Traverse finish to Oz on Drug Dome, Tuolumne.
Now I know this has pretty good gear, but not under the circumstances we climbed it!
In the last year the Beard and I climbed together before our terminal fallout, we were camping in the meadows, broke and permanently hungry. A couple of days earlier, we had inadvertently found ourselves in possession of six Hershey bars we had forgotten to pay for from the Ahwahnee Sweet Shop in the valley.
Four of the bars had already been eaten, so that morning I was looking forward to my Hershey bar breakfast. Alas, they were nowhere to be found in the tent. I asked the Beard, but he suddenly went dumb. About five minutes later I found the empty wrappers stuffed into the top of his sac!!!
The tw*t had eaten both in secret, and I was seriously pissed off. A row ensued, which turned violent (not for the first time) resulting in a bloody nose for me, and a black eye for him!
Eventually we made a truce, and made our way up to Drug Dome. All went well on Oz, until we reached the belay at the end of the third pitch and the start of the Gram Traverse, where the two Hershey bars reared their head again. After another furious row, the Beard headed off across the first pitch, and proceeded to put NO runners in at all.
We now had a game of bluff/chicken going on.
I followed the traverse, trying not to contemplate the swing if I came off, and also trying to display as much nonchalant bravado as you can on an unprotected 5.10 traverse with 600' below your feet.
When I reached the belay, the Beard gave me a snide grin, and licked his lips and rubbed his stomach.
Right I thought, two can play at this game, so I lead the second 5.10 pitch without putting any runners in too. I must admit, that I did start to shit myself a bit - especially on the last few moves when my arms started screaming and my feet started slipping on insecure smears, but I had a big grin on my face by the time I reached the big 5.5 holds leading from the end of the traverse to the top.
Unfortunately the expression on the Beards face was out of sight when he followed the pitch, but by the time he poked his head out from round the roof, he too had a big grin on his face.
There is a time and place to behave like petulant 12 year old brats, and the Gram Traverse is probably not one of those, but it certainly was one hell of a blast!
The Gram Traverse finish to Oz on Drug Dome, Tuolumne.
Now I know this has pretty good gear, but not under the circumstances we climbed it!
In the last year the Beard and I climbed together before our terminal fallout, we were camping in the meadows, broke and permanently hungry. A couple of days earlier, we had inadvertently found ourselves in possession of six Hershey bars we had forgotten to pay for from the Ahwahnee Sweet Shop in the valley.
Four of the bars had already been eaten, so that morning I was looking forward to my Hershey bar breakfast. Alas, they were nowhere to be found in the tent. I asked the Beard, but he suddenly went dumb. About five minutes later I found the empty wrappers stuffed into the top of his sac!!!
The tw*t had eaten both in secret, and I was seriously pissed off. A row ensued, which turned violent (not for the first time) resulting in a bloody nose for me, and a black eye for him!
Eventually we made a truce, and made our way up to Drug Dome. All went well on Oz, until we reached the belay at the end of the third pitch and the start of the Gram Traverse, where the two Hershey bars reared their head again. After another furious row, the Beard headed off across the first pitch, and proceeded to put NO runners in at all.
We now had a game of bluff/chicken going on.
I followed the traverse, trying not to contemplate the swing if I came off, and also trying to display as much nonchalant bravado as you can on an unprotected 5.10 traverse with 600' below your feet.
When I reached the belay, the Beard gave me a snide grin, and licked his lips and rubbed his stomach.
Right I thought, two can play at this game, so I lead the second 5.10 pitch without putting any runners in too. I must admit, that I did start to shit myself a bit - especially on the last few moves when my arms started screaming and my feet started slipping on insecure smears, but I had a big grin on my face by the time I reached the big 5.5 holds leading from the end of the traverse to the top.
Unfortunately the expression on the Beards face was out of sight when he followed the pitch, but by the time he poked his head out from round the roof, he too had a big grin on his face.
There is a time and place to behave like petulant 12 year old brats, and the Gram Traverse is probably not one of those, but it certainly was one hell of a blast!
8
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
Not necessarily the best but in the context of this thread amusing. Following your chalk on your variation pitch on Sungold(Morocco).
Tony & Sarah
Not necessarily the best but in the context of this thread amusing. Following your chalk on your variation pitch on Sungold(Morocco).
Tony & Sarah
In reply to harold walmsley:
Not much of one compared to some but Grand Alliance - I had to pull myself together
Not much of one compared to some but Grand Alliance - I had to pull myself together
In reply to harold walmsley:
Not climbed the hard grades of many on this thread, but some that come to mind:
The groove on pitch 2 of Kalahari at Castell Helen
The Sind, the top half of pitch 2
Pitch 12 of Ventre a Terre on Aiguille de Sialouze, 50m with 5 runners, two of which were of psychological merit only.
Not climbed the hard grades of many on this thread, but some that come to mind:
The groove on pitch 2 of Kalahari at Castell Helen
The Sind, the top half of pitch 2
Pitch 12 of Ventre a Terre on Aiguille de Sialouze, 50m with 5 runners, two of which were of psychological merit only.
In reply to Bulls Crack:
And just up the road: Lucifer (E5 6a)
> Not much of one compared to some but Grand Alliance - I had to pull myself together
And just up the road: Lucifer (E5 6a)
In reply to harold walmsley:
Diagonal on Dinas Mot. Suddenly competent HVS/E1 leaders get shakey! Lovely route.
Diagonal on Dinas Mot. Suddenly competent HVS/E1 leaders get shakey! Lovely route.
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
On rock, probably 70 feet above my last gear on Cioch Grooves (circa 1974) and finding that the peg was missing at the start of the crux sequence. As I was clinging on undercuts only choice was to continue and hope for the best as reversing was out of the question.
On ice, placing a runner just at the start of the big pitch on South Post (Creag Meadaigh) and not getting anything else until axe belay at the top. I probably could have placed a screw but though WTF. My second wasn't too happy with my belay in the soft powder!
I think modern gear and knowledge has removed a lot of the terror from such leads.
On rock, probably 70 feet above my last gear on Cioch Grooves (circa 1974) and finding that the peg was missing at the start of the crux sequence. As I was clinging on undercuts only choice was to continue and hope for the best as reversing was out of the question.
On ice, placing a runner just at the start of the big pitch on South Post (Creag Meadaigh) and not getting anything else until axe belay at the top. I probably could have placed a screw but though WTF. My second wasn't too happy with my belay in the soft powder!
I think modern gear and knowledge has removed a lot of the terror from such leads.
2
In reply to harold walmsley:
The Seventh Curse 45m E2 5b at Charnwood Quarry.
Last gear is a skyhook at about 30m. Last 5m were disintegrating as holds came off in my hands. I was *quite* happy to get to the top unscathed. Definitely worth it for the experience
The Seventh Curse 45m E2 5b at Charnwood Quarry.
Last gear is a skyhook at about 30m. Last 5m were disintegrating as holds came off in my hands. I was *quite* happy to get to the top unscathed. Definitely worth it for the experience
In reply to harold walmsley:
Top pitch of The Long Reach, Etive Slabs. We ended up off route on the top slab somehow and climbed the last pitch of Angel. I think I got a small cam just below the lip of the overhang and then maybe one more runner before the top where the slab ends in the trees. Must have been 25-30m of ever steepening granite with no holds whatsoever. Almost going blind looking hard for the faintest rugosities to stand on.
Top pitch of The Long Reach, Etive Slabs. We ended up off route on the top slab somehow and climbed the last pitch of Angel. I think I got a small cam just below the lip of the overhang and then maybe one more runner before the top where the slab ends in the trees. Must have been 25-30m of ever steepening granite with no holds whatsoever. Almost going blind looking hard for the faintest rugosities to stand on.
In reply to harold walmsley:
My first lead ever was The Cracks on Dinas Mot. I led the first pitch and everything I put in fell out. So I got to the belay and set something up I was happy with and brought up my mentor who raged about my protection then paled at my belay - apparently it wasn't good practise to put a sling round a lump on the ledge and put your foot on it! I got better after that!
My first lead ever was The Cracks on Dinas Mot. I led the first pitch and everything I put in fell out. So I got to the belay and set something up I was happy with and brought up my mentor who raged about my protection then paled at my belay - apparently it wasn't good practise to put a sling round a lump on the ledge and put your foot on it! I got better after that!
In reply to harold walmsley:
Pitch 1 of Self control, val di mello, closely followed by pitch 3 of Self control, val di mello.
To complete the top four we have pitches 4 and 5 of self control, val di mello.
We were expecting a sport route, requiring a few medium friends on the easy early pitches. A lack of very large friends meant my last runner on the 100ft first pitch was at 40 ft. Higher up the bolts were at regular intervals - every 25 foot ! - on a very smooth slab
Pitch 1 of Self control, val di mello, closely followed by pitch 3 of Self control, val di mello.
To complete the top four we have pitches 4 and 5 of self control, val di mello.
We were expecting a sport route, requiring a few medium friends on the easy early pitches. A lack of very large friends meant my last runner on the 100ft first pitch was at 40 ft. Higher up the bolts were at regular intervals - every 25 foot ! - on a very smooth slab
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
The gap between the first and second bolts on Consenting Adults at Malham. Scary stuff.
Andy F
The gap between the first and second bolts on Consenting Adults at Malham. Scary stuff.
Andy F
In reply to harold walmsley:
Pitch 4 of The Pinch Direct was a bit harrowing...
On grit there have been many... Chalkstorm stands out as my boldest O/S probably, that isn't a solo. Seem to remember Andi T having to "talk" me through it!
Pitch 4 of The Pinch Direct was a bit harrowing...
On grit there have been many... Chalkstorm stands out as my boldest O/S probably, that isn't a solo. Seem to remember Andi T having to "talk" me through it!
In reply to harold walmsley:
On slate to
Flash dance and my partner telling me the only runner has come out just as moving into the dervish therefore effectively soloing
Hence now into sport climbing
On slate to
Flash dance and my partner telling me the only runner has come out just as moving into the dervish therefore effectively soloing
Hence now into sport climbing
In reply to harold walmsley:
I remember the crux on The Boldest quite vividly - I had spaced the runners up the groove then put a No 3 Friend under the overlap before setting off up the crux wall. There was a high step off a small layaway and I though "I hope to hell I am going the right way" as reversing wasn't an option. No chalk on it back then so it was deffo pressing on into the unknown. Better holds and more runners appeared and all was well.
I think it was given E2 (Sharpe guide) at the time. I did Ride the Wild Surf that same evening, and that was given E5 - made me realise (not for the 1st time) what a load of bollies grades could be,
Chris
I remember the crux on The Boldest quite vividly - I had spaced the runners up the groove then put a No 3 Friend under the overlap before setting off up the crux wall. There was a high step off a small layaway and I though "I hope to hell I am going the right way" as reversing wasn't an option. No chalk on it back then so it was deffo pressing on into the unknown. Better holds and more runners appeared and all was well.
I think it was given E2 (Sharpe guide) at the time. I did Ride the Wild Surf that same evening, and that was given E5 - made me realise (not for the 1st time) what a load of bollies grades could be,
Chris
In reply to harold walmsley:
Few come to mind:
Welcome to hard times direct finish - amazing and very run out. Good long pitch for the peak
Pull my daisy, sublime... As if you can do the lower crux, you will not fall off the run out
Few come to mind:
Welcome to hard times direct finish - amazing and very run out. Good long pitch for the peak
Pull my daisy, sublime... As if you can do the lower crux, you will not fall off the run out
2
In reply to harold walmsley:
I guess the second pitches of Satan's Slip and Holiday in Cambodia on Lundy would be in there, and Proud Corner in Glen Clova, but perhaps the most gripping was a wet trip up Lament in Glencoe, graded V Diff at the time. Good runner at 30 feet then nothing else to the end of the rope, steep, cold and dripping water. Big ledge but no belay, traversed round an arete and belayed on a small foothold with one no.1 rock, all I could find. Still not sure if I was on the right route.
I guess the second pitches of Satan's Slip and Holiday in Cambodia on Lundy would be in there, and Proud Corner in Glen Clova, but perhaps the most gripping was a wet trip up Lament in Glencoe, graded V Diff at the time. Good runner at 30 feet then nothing else to the end of the rope, steep, cold and dripping water. Big ledge but no belay, traversed round an arete and belayed on a small foothold with one no.1 rock, all I could find. Still not sure if I was on the right route.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Red and yellow and pink and green. Nice, neat climbing on little in cuts. The first runner at 80ft made me laugh: a downward pointing stub of a quarry spike that had been tied off with copper wire...
Red and yellow and pink and green. Nice, neat climbing on little in cuts. The first runner at 80ft made me laugh: a downward pointing stub of a quarry spike that had been tied off with copper wire...
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Snap. It was my first HVS (when it was HVS) and I missed the gear before climbing up to the crux. Never been as spun out by a run out before - the gear was basically valueless as I stepped up to the crux. Then pulled through it and placed a bad cam behind a wobbly flake and carried on up the easy climbing to the belay - after that I used to use it as a hangover cure. Somehow, how ever pissed you were last night, that route sobers you up.
Snap. It was my first HVS (when it was HVS) and I missed the gear before climbing up to the crux. Never been as spun out by a run out before - the gear was basically valueless as I stepped up to the crux. Then pulled through it and placed a bad cam behind a wobbly flake and carried on up the easy climbing to the belay - after that I used to use it as a hangover cure. Somehow, how ever pissed you were last night, that route sobers you up.
In reply to Tony & Sarah:
I almost put that one on my list. It certainly had a big impact on me but probably nobody except you would know what I was on about!
> Not necessarily the best but in the context of this thread amusing. Following your chalk on your variation pitch on Sungold(Morocco).
I almost put that one on my list. It certainly had a big impact on me but probably nobody except you would know what I was on about!
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
Some of my favourites:
The Padder - Eastby
Apophis - Lochnagar
Ghecko Blaster - Baggy Point
Boat to Naxos - Huntsmans Leap
Extraction - Rylstone
Thrill Issues of the Jellyman - Slieve Binnian
Poetry Pink - Rainbow Slab
Never Never Land - Ramshaw
The best runouts are the ones where, once you've committed, you can't stop and just have to keep climbing till you make it, or fail
Some of my favourites:
The Padder - Eastby
Apophis - Lochnagar
Ghecko Blaster - Baggy Point
Boat to Naxos - Huntsmans Leap
Extraction - Rylstone
Thrill Issues of the Jellyman - Slieve Binnian
Poetry Pink - Rainbow Slab
Never Never Land - Ramshaw
The best runouts are the ones where, once you've committed, you can't stop and just have to keep climbing till you make it, or fail
In reply to harold walmsley:
Slav Route in winter. Only two really sound runners on the whole route and a few half decent screws. One of those days when you see a sling sticking out of some snow-ice and clip it. Blue sky day though, which was just as well - a nice view to take one's mind off things. Slav Route was Plan D for the day. Other parties had beaten us to Plans A, B and C. 1,000 feet? 1,500 feet? Something of that sort. Good for the soul. Quote of the day? "This belay is bombproof and that's all you need to know"
On rock, the top pitch of the Fang at Tremadoc. Nothing special, but with only Clog 1 and 2 wedges on cable (not wire), a Chouinard Stopper 4 (the same size as a Rock 1), a MOAC and a few hexes on cord, I got one wire at the bottom of the slab and a wobbly hex somewhere in the middle. I've still not been brave enough to go back and do it properly.
The Stopper 4 still goes climbing with me (it dates from 1978). The rest went in the bin shortly after the Fang affair when Rocks were invented
Slav Route in winter. Only two really sound runners on the whole route and a few half decent screws. One of those days when you see a sling sticking out of some snow-ice and clip it. Blue sky day though, which was just as well - a nice view to take one's mind off things. Slav Route was Plan D for the day. Other parties had beaten us to Plans A, B and C. 1,000 feet? 1,500 feet? Something of that sort. Good for the soul. Quote of the day? "This belay is bombproof and that's all you need to know"
On rock, the top pitch of the Fang at Tremadoc. Nothing special, but with only Clog 1 and 2 wedges on cable (not wire), a Chouinard Stopper 4 (the same size as a Rock 1), a MOAC and a few hexes on cord, I got one wire at the bottom of the slab and a wobbly hex somewhere in the middle. I've still not been brave enough to go back and do it properly.
The Stopper 4 still goes climbing with me (it dates from 1978). The rest went in the bin shortly after the Fang affair when Rocks were invented
Post edited at 21:41
In reply to harold walmsley:
The truth for me is that I usually don't enjoy long runouts, rather just hope to survive them! One I actually enjoyed at the time was Elegy......won't be leading it again though!
The truth for me is that I usually don't enjoy long runouts, rather just hope to survive them! One I actually enjoyed at the time was Elegy......won't be leading it again though!
In reply to harold walmsley:
The second pitch on Superdirect (E1 5b) on Dinas Mot. Got some very marginal gear in at the start of the traverse, then proceeded to drop my set of wires and so had to run it out to the flake where i managed to place a good cam. Not sure on distance but a good 8m possibly.
Top pitch on Aviation at Haytor. Last piece of gear at the top of the 5a runnel and then easy ground to the top but unprotected and mossy. Easy 25m by the time i got a decent placement to rig a belay.
Winter wise, top pitch of Two Grooves (IV,6) on Brown Cove. Managed to place 2 wires in the iced up crack and by the time I got a 3rd wire in at the top of the groove, before finishing either left or right, realised that the top wire had slipped out. Seeing the rope trail down with one piece of protection to your belayer was pretty exhilarating.
Anything at Fairy Cave!
The second pitch on Superdirect (E1 5b) on Dinas Mot. Got some very marginal gear in at the start of the traverse, then proceeded to drop my set of wires and so had to run it out to the flake where i managed to place a good cam. Not sure on distance but a good 8m possibly.
Top pitch on Aviation at Haytor. Last piece of gear at the top of the 5a runnel and then easy ground to the top but unprotected and mossy. Easy 25m by the time i got a decent placement to rig a belay.
Winter wise, top pitch of Two Grooves (IV,6) on Brown Cove. Managed to place 2 wires in the iced up crack and by the time I got a 3rd wire in at the top of the groove, before finishing either left or right, realised that the top wire had slipped out. Seeing the rope trail down with one piece of protection to your belayer was pretty exhilarating.
Anything at Fairy Cave!
In reply to harold walmsley:
Many years ago, Vein Rouge on the right hand side of the Etive Slabs. 1 dodgy micro wire on a 55m pitch with belay reached on rope stretch....
GordyB
Many years ago, Vein Rouge on the right hand side of the Etive Slabs. 1 dodgy micro wire on a 55m pitch with belay reached on rope stretch....
GordyB
Post edited at 22:24
In reply to harold walmsley:
Not read the whole thread so perhaps someone else will have mentioned these but Masambula in the Bus Stop and the California Arête both spring to mind.
Not read the whole thread so perhaps someone else will have mentioned these but Masambula in the Bus Stop and the California Arête both spring to mind.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Hassle at Wrangle point- 140 feet, no runners, no real rock, and no belay.
But I use the word "best" wrongly
Hassle at Wrangle point- 140 feet, no runners, no real rock, and no belay.
But I use the word "best" wrongly
In reply to harold walmsley:
maybe the run out to the crux on night prowler at hen cloud E66A.a fall from the crux would mean a near top to bottom fall .it was only the first ascent psyche that made me do it
maybe the run out to the crux on night prowler at hen cloud E66A.a fall from the crux would mean a near top to bottom fall .it was only the first ascent psyche that made me do it
In reply to GordyB:
Reminded me of Rasberry Ripple next door. 160ft of continuous padding up a single ripple, stopping once to place a friend in a lonely pocket about half way up. The crux is starting up again after getting the runner in!
Reminded me of Rasberry Ripple next door. 160ft of continuous padding up a single ripple, stopping once to place a friend in a lonely pocket about half way up. The crux is starting up again after getting the runner in!
In reply to Removed User:
Yes. I was a bit miffed when Massambula was down graded. it reduced my E3 lead total substantially .
Yes. I was a bit miffed when Massambula was down graded. it reduced my E3 lead total substantially .
In reply to tmawer:
Another vote for Elegy - best run-out I've done, incredibly intense and doesn't let up. The thought of the cam exploding the rattly flake and the consequences for you, your belayer and your reputation as the person who broke Elegy don't bear thinking about.
Another classic at E2 is Pull My Daisy, and it's a long run-out but the climbing's easy and I didn't find it particularly intense.
The routes I tend to find very intense are where there is a fair bit of gear but it's all tiny and/or crap, like Kitten Claws and Desolation Row. Not massive run-outs as such, but they sure feel bold.
> One I actually enjoyed at the time was Elegy......won't be leading it again though!
Another vote for Elegy - best run-out I've done, incredibly intense and doesn't let up. The thought of the cam exploding the rattly flake and the consequences for you, your belayer and your reputation as the person who broke Elegy don't bear thinking about.
Another classic at E2 is Pull My Daisy, and it's a long run-out but the climbing's easy and I didn't find it particularly intense.
The routes I tend to find very intense are where there is a fair bit of gear but it's all tiny and/or crap, like Kitten Claws and Desolation Row. Not massive run-outs as such, but they sure feel bold.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Another one I remember and was in control enough to enjoy a bit, was One step beyond at Gouther Crag.....only thing was I had stories, not sure if they are true or not but they messed with my head, of people shredding their rope on the edge of the overhang when they fell....gulp!
Another one I remember and was in control enough to enjoy a bit, was One step beyond at Gouther Crag.....only thing was I had stories, not sure if they are true or not but they messed with my head, of people shredding their rope on the edge of the overhang when they fell....gulp!
In reply to tmawer:
That's definitely on my list. I've only been to the crag once, on an incredibly hot day and wasn't in the mood for it after spending quite a while on Bloodhound - another good one.
That's definitely on my list. I've only been to the crag once, on an incredibly hot day and wasn't in the mood for it after spending quite a while on Bloodhound - another good one.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Did Bloodhound again this year, truth is I enjoyed it after doing it this time feeling a bit gripped on the moves up right off the ledge gaining the groove.
Did Bloodhound again this year, truth is I enjoyed it after doing it this time feeling a bit gripped on the moves up right off the ledge gaining the groove.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Plenty of times on easy mountain routes where you get sorted at the belay and then turn around to see your ropes billowing out in the breeze. I love that.
For a 'proper' run out with 'hard' climbing, probably something short and slabby on grit with low runners like Green Acres.
Plenty of times on easy mountain routes where you get sorted at the belay and then turn around to see your ropes billowing out in the breeze. I love that.
For a 'proper' run out with 'hard' climbing, probably something short and slabby on grit with low runners like Green Acres.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Like yourself - I really got into the run-out on Poetry Pink. I also enjoyed the run-out finish on Singing Winds in Boulder Ruckle, knowing full well that he crux was behind me
Like yourself - I really got into the run-out on Poetry Pink. I also enjoyed the run-out finish on Singing Winds in Boulder Ruckle, knowing full well that he crux was behind me
In reply to steve taylor:
Yes that is the spirit of what I meant. I can think of some runouts that I found more terrifying than the ones I listed but the listed ones were those where I focused most on the climbing and just enjoyed it either despite the runout or perhaps because of it. Probably the enjoyment came because I climbed them with some sort of inner certainty of success. I wish I knew how you get that.
Yes that is the spirit of what I meant. I can think of some runouts that I found more terrifying than the ones I listed but the listed ones were those where I focused most on the climbing and just enjoyed it either despite the runout or perhaps because of it. Probably the enjoyment came because I climbed them with some sort of inner certainty of success. I wish I knew how you get that.
Post edited at 19:29
In reply to harold walmsley:
some crazily exposed hanging on a knee-bar behind an open flake up to 15 m above the belay on the Gervasutti Pillar (probably off-route)
Pitch 8 of Comez Cano in Penon d'Ifach
Bolt 3 to 4 in pitch 4 of Self-Control
several easy and utterly brilliant chimneys in Pfalz
some crazily exposed hanging on a knee-bar behind an open flake up to 15 m above the belay on the Gervasutti Pillar (probably off-route)
Pitch 8 of Comez Cano in Penon d'Ifach
Bolt 3 to 4 in pitch 4 of Self-Control
several easy and utterly brilliant chimneys in Pfalz
In reply to harold walmsley:
Another vote for Pull My Daisy...you get further and further away from the gear (a tied off spike!)...but the holds get bigger and bigger. Just keep mantling away and don't look down! Scarlet Runner must be in the mix somewhere as well?
...and while I think about it, the first bit of Soft Touch (Long Rock, Devon) I recall as being tough, unprotected and above a gnarly landing. The crux right above the peg felt quite tame by comparison.
Another vote for Pull My Daisy...you get further and further away from the gear (a tied off spike!)...but the holds get bigger and bigger. Just keep mantling away and don't look down! Scarlet Runner must be in the mix somewhere as well?
...and while I think about it, the first bit of Soft Touch (Long Rock, Devon) I recall as being tough, unprotected and above a gnarly landing. The crux right above the peg felt quite tame by comparison.
Post edited at 19:45
In reply to harold walmsley:
Andromeda in Coire an Lochain last winter. Gear placements were totally buried. Climbed 60m with one in-situ peg at 10m. I've climbed a few V,4 routes but reckon the route warranted VI,4 that day.
Andromeda in Coire an Lochain last winter. Gear placements were totally buried. Climbed 60m with one in-situ peg at 10m. I've climbed a few V,4 routes but reckon the route warranted VI,4 that day.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Lots of things at Tuolumne are scary long runouts....once we even failed to make it to the start of a route on (I think) Daff Dome when the start was just too hairy to consider.
But the best was Great White Book pitch 2. Only 5.6 grade but no gear at all for 40m. Just constant padding up that corner making repetitive moves and hoping the bolt would arrive......
Lots of things at Tuolumne are scary long runouts....once we even failed to make it to the start of a route on (I think) Daff Dome when the start was just too hairy to consider.
But the best was Great White Book pitch 2. Only 5.6 grade but no gear at all for 40m. Just constant padding up that corner making repetitive moves and hoping the bolt would arrive......
In reply to Babika:
I was going to post the very same. Great White Book.
It was my 3rd ever lead, having learnt to place gear 2 days before. The top 2 pitches we did in a full thunder storm with our rope bundled over our shoulders. Lightening striking the dome next door.
Still my most memorable climb 10 years later.
I was going to post the very same. Great White Book.
It was my 3rd ever lead, having learnt to place gear 2 days before. The top 2 pitches we did in a full thunder storm with our rope bundled over our shoulders. Lightening striking the dome next door.
Still my most memorable climb 10 years later.
In reply to Jelly Mould Surfer:
Yes, that was interesting. I suspect it might also be a candidate for the other thread about routes that have since fallen down, at least in the form I did.
> Hassle at Wrangle point- 140 feet, no runners, no real rock, and no belay.
Yes, that was interesting. I suspect it might also be a candidate for the other thread about routes that have since fallen down, at least in the form I did.
In reply to harold walmsley:
The runout at the top of Cockblock in Llanberis may not be that long but is definitely pretty cool. Bomber gear, pumpy climbing on sidepulls getting easier as you go higher.
Midsummer Nights Dream pitch 1 on Cloggy has a classic runout from the only bolt on the crag - not too hard technically but tricky route finding, doubtless a bit of a mare when there's no chalk.
Oliver in Stoney Quarry has a nice runout. (And the top of Wee Doris too).
Also have fond memories Already Gone (direct finish) at Avon.
The runout at the top of Cockblock in Llanberis may not be that long but is definitely pretty cool. Bomber gear, pumpy climbing on sidepulls getting easier as you go higher.
Midsummer Nights Dream pitch 1 on Cloggy has a classic runout from the only bolt on the crag - not too hard technically but tricky route finding, doubtless a bit of a mare when there's no chalk.
Oliver in Stoney Quarry has a nice runout. (And the top of Wee Doris too).
Also have fond memories Already Gone (direct finish) at Avon.
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
The top pitch can be laced, with friends in the undercuts and medium nuts!
> Top pitch on Aviation at Haytor. Last piece of gear at the top of the 5a runnel and then easy ground to the top but unprotected and mossy. Easy 25m by the time i got a decent placement to rig a belay.
The top pitch can be laced, with friends in the undercuts and medium nuts!
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Maybe so, i just recall placing a good cam above the 5a bit and then going for the top. It was a while back mind.
Maybe so, i just recall placing a good cam above the 5a bit and then going for the top. It was a while back mind.
1
In reply to harold walmsley:
I don't really 'do' run out routes, I just don't quite trust myself not to f*** it up no matter how easy so it feels reckless rather than testing or exhilarating.
One that sticks in mind is Snake Dike (5.7) easy climbing but a spectacular day out with a few runout bits between the bolts.
jk
I don't really 'do' run out routes, I just don't quite trust myself not to f*** it up no matter how easy so it feels reckless rather than testing or exhilarating.
One that sticks in mind is Snake Dike (5.7) easy climbing but a spectacular day out with a few runout bits between the bolts.
jk
1
In reply to stp:
Thinking of Avon Pinkginsane is probably one of the best long runouts in the South West. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately?) I only seconded the route when it was far above my lead ability. That experience might be why I've never gone back to lead it. Anyway brilliant route, very exposed and runout but reasonably safe (the bolts might be rotten now though if they've not been replaced).
Thinking of Avon Pinkginsane is probably one of the best long runouts in the South West. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately?) I only seconded the route when it was far above my lead ability. That experience might be why I've never gone back to lead it. Anyway brilliant route, very exposed and runout but reasonably safe (the bolts might be rotten now though if they've not been replaced).
In reply to harold walmsley:
Probably high on North Face Vignemale many years ago. Doing a full runout at about severe in walking books from stance with no belay and one small loose spike runner.
Probably high on North Face Vignemale many years ago. Doing a full runout at about severe in walking books from stance with no belay and one small loose spike runner.
In reply to stp:
>Oliver in Stoney Quarry has a nice runout. (And the top of Wee Doris too).
To my shame I shunted Wee Doris quite a bit in the past and got to know it well. If you know where to look there are closely spaced runners all the way up but perhaps you would be unlikely to find the ones after the cracks peter out onsight unless you have a lot in hand at the grade?
>Oliver in Stoney Quarry has a nice runout. (And the top of Wee Doris too).
To my shame I shunted Wee Doris quite a bit in the past and got to know it well. If you know where to look there are closely spaced runners all the way up but perhaps you would be unlikely to find the ones after the cracks peter out onsight unless you have a lot in hand at the grade?
Post edited at 12:02
In reply to harold walmsley:
1st Pitch of Topo Bianco, Arnad, Aosta Valley, Italy.
Just a runout all the way to the first belay. 30m I reckon, maybe 40m, a bit crumbly but worth it to reach all the lovely bolted pitches above from what appeared to be the correct start in the guidebook picture.
1st Pitch of Topo Bianco, Arnad, Aosta Valley, Italy.
Just a runout all the way to the first belay. 30m I reckon, maybe 40m, a bit crumbly but worth it to reach all the lovely bolted pitches above from what appeared to be the correct start in the guidebook picture.
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
I remember the second pitch of Vandal and Ann at Haytor as having no gear. A very good route, btw.
> Top pitch on Aviation at Haytor. Last piece of gear at the top of the 5a runnel and then easy ground to the top but unprotected and mossy. Easy 25m by the time i got a decent placement to rig a belay.
I remember the second pitch of Vandal and Ann at Haytor as having no gear. A very good route, btw.
In reply to harold walmsley:
I'm not sure what "best" means in this context. If it means "most glad to look back on with hindsight but never again", then I nominate P3 of Dike Route on Pywiack Dome in Tuolumne. There's a bolt at 20', then 70' of glacier polished rock to the next belay. There's supposed to be a 2nd bolt 40' out from the 1st, but I never found it (it is notoriously easy to miss: "5.8X"). I was preoccupied because my belayer had got the rope in a tangle but there was nowhere to stop while he sorted it out. It felt like E2 5a with someone trying to pull you off backwards for a ride down the world's biggest cheese-grater.
Great White Book is almost as run-out but at a much lower grade: HVS 4a?
I'm not sure what "best" means in this context. If it means "most glad to look back on with hindsight but never again", then I nominate P3 of Dike Route on Pywiack Dome in Tuolumne. There's a bolt at 20', then 70' of glacier polished rock to the next belay. There's supposed to be a 2nd bolt 40' out from the 1st, but I never found it (it is notoriously easy to miss: "5.8X"). I was preoccupied because my belayer had got the rope in a tangle but there was nowhere to stop while he sorted it out. It felt like E2 5a with someone trying to pull you off backwards for a ride down the world's biggest cheese-grater.
Great White Book is almost as run-out but at a much lower grade: HVS 4a?
In reply to Andrew Wilson:
Hi Andy, I saw someone else do that once. Another team kept shouting over to her to 'just keep moving'!
> Top pitch of The Long Reach, Etive Slabs. We ended up off route on the top slab somehow and climbed the last pitch of Angel. I think I got a small cam just below the lip of the overhang and then maybe one more runner before the top where the slab ends in the trees. Must have been 25-30m of ever steepening granite with no holds whatsoever. Almost going blind looking hard for the faintest rugosities to stand on.
Hi Andy, I saw someone else do that once. Another team kept shouting over to her to 'just keep moving'!
1
In reply to David Coley:
Certainly was, though I still feel guilty for hogging all the fun ! once I've got this running and cycling out of my system we must do another trip
> A memorable day. The descent was equally fun. The beer tasted good.
Certainly was, though I still feel guilty for hogging all the fun ! once I've got this running and cycling out of my system we must do another trip
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Well it's still there, but the rock climbed in the next ascent will be entirely different to that which I climbed
Well it's still there, but the rock climbed in the next ascent will be entirely different to that which I climbed
In reply to ashtond6:
I remember bottling the F.A. of that direct finish.
Went back many years later after someone braver than I had been there..
I recall it being "an absorbing lead"!
;~))
> Few come to mind:
> Welcome to hard times direct finish - amazing and very run out. Good long pitch for the peak
I remember bottling the F.A. of that direct finish.
Went back many years later after someone braver than I had been there..
I recall it being "an absorbing lead"!
;~))
1
In reply to Removed User:
IIRC I found all the bolts above the cruxy moves!
Edit:
As someone else mentioned, Elegy is a good run out. The hardest bit for me was escaping the chimney and moving L to the flake. The bold bit seemed not too bad after that.
> Masambula in the Bus Stop
IIRC I found all the bolts above the cruxy moves!
Edit:
As someone else mentioned, Elegy is a good run out. The hardest bit for me was escaping the chimney and moving L to the flake. The bold bit seemed not too bad after that.
Post edited at 23:19
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:
On Masambula? Either your recollection is out or some one has retrobolted the route.
From memory, there are only 2 bolts on the route plus 2 right at the top.
> IIRC I found all the bolts above the cruxy moves
On Masambula? Either your recollection is out or some one has retrobolted the route.
From memory, there are only 2 bolts on the route plus 2 right at the top.
Post edited at 01:16
In reply to harold walmsley:
Of the various ones that have happened, my favorite---even though the difficulty turned out to be moderate---was the Needle's Eye in Custer State Park (SD USA). An account is here; I think if you read it you'll see why it is my favorite. http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-First-Ascent-of-the-Needles-Eye/t222n.html .
Folks mostly like to talk about success, but I'm happy to have barely extracted myself from some ill-advised run-outs. One such experience was http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1616302/An-afternoon-with-Kamps .
Of the various ones that have happened, my favorite---even though the difficulty turned out to be moderate---was the Needle's Eye in Custer State Park (SD USA). An account is here; I think if you read it you'll see why it is my favorite. http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-First-Ascent-of-the-Needles-Eye/t222n.html .
Folks mostly like to talk about success, but I'm happy to have barely extracted myself from some ill-advised run-outs. One such experience was http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1616302/An-afternoon-with-Kamps .
1
In reply to Removed User:
Circa '89-'90.
I also think there were only 2 bolts, so all is probably misleading.
But I do remember having to do (a) hard move(s) to reach them. So looking at a right whipper, if not a deck-out!
:~))
Circa '89-'90.
I also think there were only 2 bolts, so all is probably misleading.
But I do remember having to do (a) hard move(s) to reach them. So looking at a right whipper, if not a deck-out!
:~))
In reply to harold walmsley:
The final runout on Cystitis by Proxy. You're free to enjoy the moves and position knowing its most likely in the bag!
The final runout on Cystitis by Proxy. You're free to enjoy the moves and position knowing its most likely in the bag!
In reply to harold walmsley:
Another one on Slate: Mad Alice (E3 5c).
Before bolts!
Basically a solo!
Another one on Slate: Mad Alice (E3 5c).
Before bolts!
Basically a solo!
In reply to harold walmsley:
P1 Continuation Wall, Malta 45m, E1 slab, 3 runners. The first one at 4m was good, the other two, not so much...
P1 Continuation Wall, Malta 45m, E1 slab, 3 runners. The first one at 4m was good, the other two, not so much...
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