UKC

This is real anorak stuff,however;

i saw on the 8a web site that whilst indoor bouldering you only spend 1-2 seconds on a hold . So 12-30 secs.max on an indoor problem. In 1 hour you most probably only climb for 6 minutes.(after talking,taking the piss etc)

Same on leading walls; having no friends i was on the billy no mates machine at Leeds wall and in the rest periods i timed people on a route.

Most people spent 2mins - 2mins.15 secs max per route on the lead wall. That equated to 6 seconds per hold. So in 1 hour you most probably climb for 11 minutes.

Now that's not much in the way of training is it ??

In reply to anonymous1:

Please get out more, please!

In reply to Nelberto Rockostaro:

i know it very sad isn't it. I will try to take your advice

In reply to anonymous1:

Then they're not climbing hard enough I spend it least double that, which is probably why I usually get pumped and fall off.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

that's what the article was saying ; you should spend longer holding each hold so you get really pumped and hence fitter. Climbing fast gets you a different kind of pump.

Now this IS sad,and i promise to get out more.

In reply to anonymous1:

What's the alternative though? Climb slower? Just means you belay for longer when it's not your turn.

Or should we all be on the autobelays?

In reply to MeMeMe:

yes, train slower for longer .there's flaws in every approach but this does kinda make a bit of sense.

In reply to anonymous1:

One training method is to wait ten seconds before moving any limb: so move left hand to next hold, wait ten seconds; move right hand; wait ten seconds; etc.

Two advantages - simulates outdoor climbing better when you are trying to work out the next move. You make sure that you move your body into the most efficient position as you have to hold it there for some time.

Oh, and you get pumped rather quickly!

Bob

In reply to MeMeMe:

Yeah, but if you normally climb trad, you'd be spending a lot longer on each hold while you place gear/sh1t yourself/remove moss, thus sprinting up indoor routes is rubish training. To train you should count to 5 or 10 or whatever on each hold before you make the next move. Thats the theory anyway.

In reply to The Bantam:

I suppose so. Might try this then. Probably annoy the hell out of my belayer

In reply to all:

Also if you are down the wall tonight queuing for a route and there is some git taking an age to climbing it then that'll probably be me. You've only got yourselves to blame.

In reply to MeMeMe:

well,we can always ask you to climb faster.!!!

I did it yesterday lunch time but then i am old and used that as an excuse. I suppose tuesday evening isn't quite the right time to put this into practice.!!!

In reply to Bob:
same method, most probably from the same article

In reply to anonymous1:

So the article is 20 years old then?

Bob

In reply to Bob:

no that's when you last tried to climb !!

could well be bob, there is nothing new in this world, nothing new.