UKC

I’m just getting going with trad and would like some recommendations for good first lead routes. Something where I can focus on placing lots of gear and building belays without thinking too much about the climbing would be ideal. I’m hoping for positive experiences at this stage rather than anything too epic. I’m currently seconding (up to VS) as much as I can and have done a few practice leads. 

I’m based in Bristol and I’m looking for recommendations in the local area. I have climbed the usual suspects at Idleburger Buttress and Introductory Rocks. I don’t mind a bit of polish, but routes without a mirror finish would be nice 😊 

I’ve search the forum, but couldn’t find anything specific, so over to the UKC hive mind. What beginner lead routes do you recommend?

I climbed Snoozin' Suzie (VD) at Symonds Yat as my first trad lead, then I led Pharos (HS 4b) at Portishead Quarry after seconding it first. Both went well for me, Pharos is maybe a bit sustained but has loads of gear and you don't have to build a belay at the top. Seconding it first took some of the fear factor away as well! 

I'd agree with Portishead as a good place to push your leading grade, as long as you are careful about any loose stuff at the top.  Maybe Zelda at Wintours Leap, or Rob's Crack at Fairy Cave?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/goblin_combe-44/gift_tolkien-38907... is a nice single pitch. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wintours_leap-51/bottle_buttress-3...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wintours_leap-51/central_rib_route...

The above 2 and any of the Corner Buttress Routes at Wintours are good if you wanted a first multi pitch. 

Corner Buttress at Wintours.

As an alternative to those suggestions above... Consider Sand Point. Middle Hope Cove has a range of low graded routes that take nut, hex and sling placements. They are generally easy angled and are all short, so you won't tire yourself whilst you take time to learn the craft. The rock is certainly not polished and you can drive out from Bristol in about 30 minutes... then a 15 minute walk in. Check the tides!

There are enough climbs at an ascending grades to give you some challenge if you take to it easily and there are enough low grade climbs with some really nice moves if you prefer to take your time.

North Somerset Outcrops Vol 1 is a worthy purchase and supports an excellent local effort and has some of those climbs mentioned above... so you can take up their suggestions too. 

Wherever you go, I hope you have some great days!

Regards,

Jim 

That's a good suggestion.  Don't get hung up on grades; expect to lead something well below the grade you can second until you're certain that you can place gear and set up a belay safely and effectively.

Though it's many years since I was last on it, my memory of Snoozin' Suzie (VD) was of a climb with disposable holds. It may be a local classic at the grade, but I'd steer clear of it until you're more experienced.  Similarly, other routes at harder grades such as Zelda (HS 4b); terrific climb, but you don't want your first leading experiences to be on routes at the limit of what you can comfortably second.  Learn at lower grades.

T.

This is something I’ve given thought to, as countless friends ask me this. I honestly would say nowhere immediately around Bristol is that safe to start. Apologies to others, but I don’t recommend Wintours, as it’s mostly multipitch, heavy reliant on spaced pitons, with tricky route finding, periodic loose blocks, polished easier routes and no easy-to-read topos due to trees. 
 

I’d recommend the Gower. Yes it’s 1hr 50min away, but has tonnes of Diff, Vdiff and Severe climbs, that sink gear, are barely at all polished, easy direct lines and who doesn’t like climbing above golden beaches!! Though watch out for the tide! Three Cliffs Bay is a great place to start. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/three_cliffs_bay-15

Mm good point about Snoozin' Suzie, it felt like a lovely bimble so I didn't mind the occasional loose bit, and if you were familiar with the rock around there already it could be okay - but perhaps it wouldn't be good for everyone. 

I take your point, and I definitely agree that Gower is a great place for safe easy routes (in a beautiful setting).  Actually, I misread the original post and thought the OP was asking for reasonable local stuff to lead up to VS, so that's my mistake (and a bad one, for which I apologise).

I'm not sure what access is like at Churchill Slabs these days, so that might be worth a look, but for localish and friendly, I like jimmcall's suggestion of Sand Point. 

I personally wouldn't get bent out of shape finding the perfect route. As many have said, pick something well within your grade and you think looks amenable and have a go, even if it is a 0 star route nobody has heard of or cares much for. I personally would go for something that you can see lots of gear on, isn't difficult to get to or difficult to get off after you have finished. There are lots of amazing routes, so better to get started than to waste time deciding which is the best first one as this doesn't really add value. Good luck with it!

What about Shorn Cliff something like https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/shorn_cliff-39/acoustic-33149#over...

It's single pitch and decent rock.

There's a lot of easy stuff at Symonds Yat but the quality isn't that great in comparison.

I think the poster who suggested it realised they'd made an error about what you were asking for but I would not suggest Zelda or Bottle Buttress at Wintour's.  Bottle Buttress I did not that long ago (well, 2 years ago or something) and I felt strongly enough afterwards to write in my notes that it would not be good for beginners.  It's tough for VDiff and full of shonky pegs, and bold traverses.  Good climb though just not one to cut your teeth on!

Corner Buttress much more appropriate.

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions and good advice so far. Corner Buttress is definitely on the list as a first multi pitch, as so many of you have recommended it. I’m sticking to leading single pitch routes for the time being though, and building up gradually. 

I’ve had a look at Sand Point and Middlehope and traversed there a bit. Definitely no polish, the  rock is bloomin’ sharp! I’ve got the guide book, so will go back and have a go. I think when I went and looked I was wondering about how to go about building belays at the top.

I was introduced to Shorn Cliff last weekend and spent a day seconding mostly VS routes. A lovely spot.I seconded Acoustic with a view to leading it. A nice climb with a pokey crux. I bailed out of doing the lead then, definitely one to go back for! 

I seconded ‘Snoozing Susie’ about a year ago. It was my first trad climb and a bit of a mini adventure. It’s a lovely climb but I do remember a loose block at the top of the first pitch. Definitely one to return to for the lead when I’ve got a bit more experience.

Thanks for this suggestion. Will get over there now we can visit Wales again. Was planning on going to a meet there, but it was cancelled due to COVID.

Another vote for Zelda from me. If not your first lead, make it your second! 

This is good news to me. I didn't want to oversell the place but I think for a 'local'  Bristol crag, it is probably the best option for learning those leading skills. You are very right to question the ease of setting up belays at the top, but whilst this is a bit of a challenge, it is one which will serve you well for your climbing career and is one of those (oft overlooked - not by you!) leading skills you are seeking to develop. If I can suggest, there is enough to find if you look for it. 

Steve's suggestion of Three Cliffs Bay is great (and gets lots of likes) because it is everything he says it is... including the 2 hours drive. 3 hours (just) will get you to the Gritstone in the Peak... Neither are local for me but undoubtedly worth the visit when you are seeking an alternative. 

I drive past Churchill Slabs on my commute and politely contribute to Dave's suggestion as to a possibility in that it currently looks overgrown and probably not worth the visit. I really appreciate his vote for Sand Point though! 

Your original post has encouraged some debate! And no abuse - quite a skill on the forums! Please let us all know the outcomes and maybe our collective thoughts will be able to guide the next similar query on the basis of your experiences. 

Enjoy the climbing, wherever you go!

Jim 

I remember climbing Zelda early on and found it really necky.

Yeah, zelda is a poor suggestion tbf. The first pitch has an awkward move, is top-end HS, and aside from cemented-in pegs and a tree, there is little opportunity to practice placing gear. I seem to remember putting 2 nuts on a sliding x either side of a loose block on p1. 

Adding to Steve's excellent points on Gower, especially Three Cliffs, maybe try getting some mileage on Mods and Diffs and VDiffs, so you can be focussing just on efficiently placing gear on lead without as much concern on doing that under technical pressure.

Snoozing Susy is a good one.

I don't have a guide to hand but I seem to remember a severe corner of similar character at Goblin Combe (ticks permitting) a partner did a few years ago as her first lead after years out.

Yeah, agreed.  I remember discussion about the pegs at Wintours and on Zelda particularly in threads passim.  I did some digging and found this thread from a while back which may help the OP "Best crag in the Wye Valley for someone starting in Trad"- https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/best_crag_in_wye_valley_for_...

Amongst other things though it has some history for the pegs in Zelda from John Willson which it would be a shame if it were lost, so I'll quote that bit - highlights how the pegs at Wintours should be viewed for what they are - NOT as bolts, I remember abseiling back down past the peg on the crux of pitch one a few years back and laughing at how flimsy it looked.

"The history of this route is worth a page in the Historical alone (but such indulgences are now discouraged). A few points may be of interest. The remaining peg on pitch 1 is believed to be the FA original. When I sent my draft 1977 script to John Grieve in 1976, he remarked that on a recent visit he had been 'surprised to see his partner's home made peg still in situ' (but this could have applied to a lower peg in the left wall, long dispensed with). I am almost but not 100% certain that it was not removed and replaced in the short interval between then and my cementing round it a couple of years later. I did the route several times thenabouts, including my first solo of it in 1978. This peg was implied to be an aid peg in the 1965 GMC guide and has often been used as such (I witnessed an occasion only six weeks ago!).

The first peg on pitch 2 (protecting the nose move) also definitely predates 1975 and may be quite a bit older. I placed the sentry box peg in 78 (having recommended its use in the 77 guide) along with the pegs now at the belay. The early descriptions of this climb appear to advocate a poorer finish further left avoiding the sentry box. The intermediate peg appeared in the early to mid 80s. I did not cement it, or mention it in the 87 guide, as I regarded it as something of an interloper and assumed that I or someone would remove it. However, it was well in and has become accepted as a fixture. The moves between it and the sentry box are not hard, but some people are still shaking from the exposed step out and welcome the assurance it gives.

So this one might be 30- years but all others are 30+. To question whether they are sound is like asking how long is a piece of string. The crux is, are they likely to do the job they need to? Probably but not definitely £ i.e., they may well hold a small fall or provide security to grab in an emergency; they are certainly not to be equated with 12mm SS bolts. However, there are no alternative natural gear placements and it is unlikely that replacement pegs as good (or anywhere near) would be possible. The whole topic of peg degradation and replacement was given a good UKC airing recently, more specifically in relation to Avon.

For all this, the route remains one of the best, probably the best, of its grade in the Wye Valley."

Tangent - has anyone seen John recently?  I hope he is OK, I used to see him most times I went to Wintour's.

The issues with pegs at Wintour's are not confined to the peg and the placement alone.  A couple of times I have seen 1/2 door size blocks laid at the bottom of the crag with the peg still in tact in the middle of the rock.

Al

That's quite a scary 2nd lead, the first pitch is hard for HS (coming out of the corner onto the ledge) and the second pitch is a runout with some rusty pegs!

I find it hard to even view Corner Butress as proper multipitch as it's big ledges, most of the route you could solo in trainers.

We went to New Orleans Buttress at Symonds Yat a few weeks ago for our first outdoor trip of the year. We were after nice easy climbs to ease ourselves back in. Plenty of low grade short routes. Good tree belays and a nice easy walk off as well. 

Can't believe (or can I...) no one is talking about Avon Gorge. I know it's not always first port of call for early trad leads, but The Arete on Main Wall (VD) is a good multi-pitch if a little polished, and can probably be run as a single pitch to Lunchtime Ledge and then you can abseil off easily from there. 

For single pitch you can't beat Fairy Cave - Balch's Slide (HS 4a) was one of my first trad leads and is nice as it's an easy-angled slab with huge amounts of good gear. I know someone mentioned Rob's Crack as well which is a good recommendation. 

A couple of people recommended Pharos (HS 4b) in Portishead Quarry, that gets a thumbs up from me too - great little route with good gear.

If you're getting into trad leads I always think slabs are good practice for placing gear from good stances so all three I've suggested are good for that. 

Goblin Combe I think got a mention from someone and that's good for getting a bit more vertical, but I can't stress enough how much you have to be on the lookout for ticks there this time of year. Repellant as essential as a rope IMO. Picked a couple up in Portishead this year too, so watch out there. 

There are a handful of good first routes at Symonds Yat, which I use for any learn-to-lead courses I run.  You can see them in my log book if the partner is called "student".  There are also some good pitches at Wintours mixed in to the longer routes. I occasionally abseil in to do parts of routes which are suitable for anyone learning to lead.   

Great gear but I found it quite hard work, not an easy first lead in my book!

Thanks for suggesting New Orleans Buttress. I went there yesterday and led several of the diff routes. The ones I tried all had plenty of gear options and were well protected. Planning to go back to do the ones I haven’t got to yet. Appreciated the easy walk off too, after the previous day’s rain some of the steeper banks didn’t appeal.

No worries, it has probably become one of my favourite crags having revisited it again recently. You should give Masquerade (Vdiff) on the corner a go as well if you wanted to step it up a little bit. It is a nice little climb. 

Goblin Combe - Bolg (S 4a) S, but good Friend#4 at the crux and Esgaroth (HS 4b), good wires all the way