UKC

78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Traditional VDiff climbing featuring varied pitches and good situations. Due to the traversing nature of the route all members of the party must be competent at the grade. Start at a short blocky corner on the left at the first ledge after the initial scramble.
1) 20m. Make some very awkward moves up the blocky short corner to get on a ledge at 4m. Peg just above. Step left and pull steeply up left of an overhang to easier ground and continue leftwards past a bush and then a short corner to reach a good ledge and tree and nut belays.
2) 20m. Move up rightwards to another ledge and tree. Above is a pocketed crack with a thin thread. Move up to the thread and then step down and move right to a peg. Move delicately right again and then up on positive holds to a ledge. Go left and then up the wall just right of a tree to a wide ledge and tree and block belays.
3) 13m. Traverse the wide break leftwards – awkward. Once stood up in the break a peg above can be clipped (a bit of a reach) to protect the second. Continue along a ramp to a shallow corner and pegs (this is the old belay). Move left out of the corner and make some nice moves on rough rock to reach a small stance and good nut and cam belays in a crack.
4) 30m. Easier but pleasant climbing up right and back left leads to a final stiff pull up above a small tree that gains scrambling territory and summits at the top of the easy way down and various belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists

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Feedback

User Date Notes
Labergorce 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: As per previous comments, this is a lovely route done on a beautiful summer evening in glorious sunshine. Never too hard but with great exposure. Pegs are in good condition and trustworthy. Agree not for the novice VDiff team as requires sound ropework to be safe. Leading through P3 into P4 allows for better protection of the second with half ropes. For me best V Diff at Wintours.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As per previous comments, this is a lovely route done on a beautiful summer evening in glorious sunshine. Never too hard but with great exposure. Pegs are in good condition and trustworthy. Agree not for the novice VDiff team as requires sound ropework to be safe. Leading through P3 into P4 allows for better protection of the second with half ropes. For me best V Diff at Wintours.
Mlewis 7 May Show βeta
βeta: The start of P2 felt more like a HS, dusty hand holds probably didn\'t help.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start of P2 felt more like a HS, dusty hand holds probably didn't help.
jon59 22 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: All the pegs throughout the route have been replaced very recently, including the peg belay on pitch 3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All the pegs throughout the route have been replaced very recently, including the peg belay on pitch 3.
Marti999 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: with good rope work it is safer to run pitch 3 an 4 together to save belaying on just pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: with good rope work it is safer to run pitch 3 an 4 together to save belaying on just pegs.
whoisjosh 6 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The belay on the 3rd pitch could really do with bolts. I am all for keeping routes true to the original assent style but I'm sure these pegs used to be in better condition. Probably worth replacing that peg on p2 aswell given it's the only thing preventing a fun swing...
Show beta
βeta: The belay on the 3rd pitch could really do with bolts. I am all for keeping routes true to the original assent style but I'm sure these pegs used to be in better condition. Probably worth replacing that peg on p2 aswell given it's the only thing preventing a fun swing...
chrishunt55 25 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The two peg belay at the end of pitch 3 is really not great. Would benefit massively from a bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The two peg belay at the end of pitch 3 is really not great. Would benefit massively from a bolt.
Sid Sherborne 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The 'pointless old peg' at the start of P1 referenced by South West Climbs is not pointless. If you fall off the start and your gear rips it will probably keep you off the ground (the ground below the belay ledge) and also stop your belayer being pulled off the ledge after them. Unfortunately our friend found this out the hard way after pulling off a head-sized hold. Very luckily, she managed to weather the 15m ground fall with only minor injuries. Clip the peg!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 'pointless old peg' at the start of P1 referenced by South West Climbs is not pointless. If you fall off the start and your gear rips it will probably keep you off the ground (the ground below the belay ledge) and also stop your belayer being pulled off the ledge after them. Unfortunately our friend found this out the hard way after pulling off a head-sized hold. Very luckily, she managed to weather the 15m ground fall with only minor injuries. Clip the peg!
simon32000 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could combine 3rd and 4th pitches if you manage the rope drag well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could combine 3rd and 4th pitches if you manage the rope drag well

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Route of Interest
A Unique Snowflake

Grade: VD 5a ***
(Cleeve Hill)

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