Traditional VDiff climbing featuring varied pitches and good situations. Due to the traversing nature of the route all members of the party must be competent at the grade. Start at a short blocky corner on the left at the first ledge after the initial scramble.
1) 20m. Make some very awkward moves up the blocky short corner to get on a ledge at 4m. Peg just above. Step left and pull steeply up left of an overhang to easier ground and continue leftwards past a bush and then a short corner to reach a good ledge and tree and nut belays.
2) 20m. Move up rightwards to another ledge and tree. Above is a pocketed crack with a thin thread. Move up to the thread and then step down and move right to a peg. Move delicately right again and then up on positive holds to a ledge. Go left and then up the wall just right of a tree to a wide ledge and tree and block belays.
3) 13m. Traverse the wide break leftwards – awkward. Once stood up in the break a peg above can be clipped (a bit of a reach) to protect the second. Continue along a ramp to a shallow corner and pegs (this is the old belay). Move left out of the corner and make some nice moves on rough rock to reach a small stance and good nut and cam belays in a crack.
4) 30m. Easier but pleasant climbing up right and back left leads to a final stiff pull up above a small tree that gains scrambling territory and summits at the top of the easy way down and various belays. © Rockfax
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