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Climbs 126
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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A last good day in September. Walk in from Great Tor towards Three Cliffs Bay, Gower. © terragait

Crag features

Very popular with beginners and clubs. Easy-angled slabs up to 25m high including two great ***VS routes, Scavenger (4b) and Arch Slab (4c). There is an E4 6a too, but it stands alone among easier routes. (There's nothing in the grades between the lone HVS - which is very short and easy at HVS 4c - and that E4.) Some routes polished at start.

Approach notes

Tidal. The sea comes in very fast: don't get caught at the bottom. Approach from the campsite down across the bay. Miscalculating the tide will mean wet trousers, at best.

Went today. Glorious in the sunshine. Met the basset hound. Sat on my shoes, said hello to everyone then dug a hole and barked at it.
Manicstreetmini - 14/Aug/14
The wobbly flake on the far right line has now fallen off. Open to suggestions for grade amendments!
partz - 09/May/14
The basset hound is still at large. He came a dug a massive trench next to us and barked at it randomly. I've not attempted any of the climbs here but plan too this weekend.
jobiehoar - 05/Aug/13
Oops, how did that happen? Although to be fair it's so crumbly it may as well be sand :)
Steve Hill - 19/Nov/12
Steve, this crag is Limestone - not sandstone.
Skyhook - 18/Nov/12
Don't bother not a good crag waste of bolts in my opinion
Mattdixclimb - 01/Nov/12
I have added Third Buttress, Second Buttress, Cracked Arete and First Buttress (in order from the west). They are all on East Wall of Pobbles East and listed in the Gower & SE Wales guidebook (routes 14-17). I think Fictitious Monkeys and Diagonal are probably actually at the east end of Pobbles West (a large cave is mentioned in the description of FM) and I reconnoitered this cave today. Hope this is all useful. This venue is enjoyable for soloing and probably doesn't get much use. Cheers, Martin
Martin Lilley - 25/Jul/10
To find Pobbles East: After entering the beach from the Southgate path turn left. After a series of low slabby sections a narrow gully opens out with pools in the 'cave' at the back. This is NOT Pobbles East. Follow the beach further round past the sub-headland, walk to the end wall and go left. This gully has the cave of The Poseidon Enigma (E3 6b) in the back left with a large hole in the roof. Routes from The Groove to Blue Lights Crack are to the the left as you look into the gully, and routes from Fourth Buttress onwards to the right. Good potential for quiet soloing.
Martin Lilley - 25/Jul/10
Went there with the kids, approach from Southgate made it hard to work out what is what from the book! There is a large obvious cave that doesnt appear to be mentioned! However, there are some good child friendly routes in the coves to the left of the cave, and something like an S 4b up the left flank by the cave. If it hasn't got a name it is now 'Ficticious Monkeys' Avoid anything to the right of the acve as it is incredibley difficult to set up a belay at the top, and the rock is very loose. Despite the walk from the road, this beach is popular with the bucket & Spade brigade.
glass90land - 31/May/08
Last few times we went there a little Basset hound that must live near the beach and roams around all day following people around. Name's Bettsy and seems a bit scavengerish, TIP: put your bags etc about 10 meters out from the face. when the tide gets close get down and out this'll give you time another is don't leave food open at the bottom or it won't be there when you get down courtesy of Bettsy... peace out
Obvian - 08/Mar/07
we climbed and abseiled all three. they go in stages of hardness. i've never done hvs before but i shot up it, it was great but quite hard. TIP: use your toes and don't rely on your hands to much its your feet you use more. TIP: be careful like you always should be TIP: concentrate
terri-louise - 24/Oct/03
I have some great memories of this wonerfull place, scavanger was my first lead climb, shame I never manage to the hardest route inside the cave. maybe one day!?
becci - 27/Feb/03
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