UKC

Hi,

I am just starting my home wall for some training. I have a few holds but can not get any clear info about which fixings I should use. I know the principle and am going to use expansion anchors with no resin as they are solid bricks. However I need to know exact dimensions of the bolts, drill bit size and the type of expansion anchor. I though I needed M10's but just went to the local shop and they are far too big.

Has anyone done this themselves? Any help much appreciated?

ps....anyone put a rubber backer on each hold when bolting into brickwork?

In reply to Tekton23:

Some info here, though you'll have to adjust from imperial to metric:

http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.asp

In reply to Tekton23:

I've not built a wall myself, but bolts suitable for fixing into brickwork are Hilti Hit HY-50. These are resin rather than expansion type and so are less prone to cracking the bricks. www.hilti.co.uk

In reply to Tekton23: I wouldn't bother with bolt-ons on a vertical wall - limited training value. Better off making a small steep woodie - get alot more out of it. And relatively cheap and easy to construct.

In reply to Tekton23:
do a google search for building climbin walls, rather than paste a load of links from there into here as there are so many, bound to be some suitable sites about, plus check out some of the hold manufacturers/sellers sites, for tips on fixing into walls.

Built a wall at home but holds are all on timber, but i imagine some m8 anchor bolts into the wall would more than suffice for the holds. other way to do it could be to make up wall on timber and bolt that to the wall.

let us know how ya get on

In reply to Tekton23:

See http://www.indoor-rock.co.uk/info/howto.html
Most climbing holds in the UK take an M10 countersunk bolt and corresponding T nut. When you say the M10 bolts from your local shop are too big, do you mean for the holds that you have? The hole should be drilled with a 12mm masonry bit. You should be fine with regular expansion anchors


A rubber bcking helps to prevent the hold from slipping when it has been attached to masonry. A rubber-backing will however add something like 25% to the cost of your holds!

In reply to Tekton23: Yes, you should use M10, but not rawlbolts as they can split brick really easily. Ask in your local specialist fixings shop. I had a problem with not then being able to get countersunk M10 bolts long enough to use with holds. 110mm is the longest I could find. 15 years ago,aAs a cheap way of building a wall I cemented in little stones (mainly limestone chips) inbetween bricks. It's still good! This means you get a cheap wall, good for footholds, and don't reduce the strength of the wall. use a few bolt-ons as well for variety. Have fun.

In reply to Tekton23: check out Ben Moons school room replica build instructions, looks pretty good and you can replicate their classic boulder problems as well as current projects https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=school pdf files for download explaining the build process

This thread was started in the wrong forum and has now been moved.
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In reply to Tekton23:

One minor, perhaps obvious, tip - but don't forget towear a mask when you're drilling all those holes, because you'll find the amount of brick dust will be quite horrendous - far more than you'd imagine.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Can't wait to set this up, wish I had some more cash for holds. But was lucky enough to get a huge mattress from a local wall. I am going to order the fixings from beacon walls, they have a lot of good advice. Thanks for all your suggestions. Perhaps I'll have a BBQ in the summer for anyone nearby to try the wall out. I am planning a 10m travers wall + a belay wall up the side of the house, about 5m wide by two storeys high, should be ample space for good practise. Just wish I had an auto-belay machine.

T23