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Ranulf Fiennes on the Eigerwand

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Deejay 12 Mar 2007
Coming up on ITV News at Ten shortly.

DJ
Carpe Diem 12 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

What did it say?

I remember posting about this a few months ago.
Knitting Norah 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Carpe Diem:

He said he would be starting the climb tomorrow if the weather stayed good, which he expected it too. He also said he is not a good climber but is with others who are so it will take about five to six days.
Hope it all goes well for them.
In reply to Knitting Norah:

Saw an Ian Parnell talk a few weeks ago. He was saying he was guiding Fiennes up it. Hope all goes well, seems a very dangerous hill.

Davie
In reply to Knitting Norah:

I wouldn't want to spend 6 days on the face. I spent 4 days on it, and that was more than enough!! I was terrified the weather was going to suddenly change, despite it being crystal clear blue sky. Also more itme on there, more chance of being hit by a falling rock!
 Max factor 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
Read about this in the sunday papers, think it was partly sponsored by the Times so might be progress reports on their website?

Kenton Cool is guiding and Ian Parnell is there as photographer according to the article.
 GrahamD 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

I read an article in the Torygraph about this a few weeks back. I hadn't realised how many of his exploits were linked to charity fund raising.

All power to his elbow - anyone who can amputate his own frost bitten fingers with a black and decker certainly isn't short of balls.
In reply to GrahamD:

Certainly not short of balls, maybe marbles are more lacking?

Davie
OP Anonymous 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

There was an article in the Sunday Times ref his planned ascent.

In it he says how he is terrified of heights and will not look down during his ascent! Might be hard not to if he is spending 5 or 6 days on the face.
 The Bantam 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

Blog with updates:

http://www.myspace.com/ranulphfiennes
 teddy_simmon 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: well good luck to him and ihopefully it will al go wrong from what i have heard they will be very lucky to get a 6 day window of perfect weather
Robert Dickson 13 Mar 2007
In reply to teddy_simmon:
> and ihopefully it will al go wrong
Did you mean to write this?
 teddy_simmon 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Robert Dickson: er no hopeful it will not all go wrong

dsrry trying to do two thuings at once
Robert Dickson 13 Mar 2007
In reply to teddy_simmon:
> er no hopeful it will not all go wrong
>

Thank you for clarifying.
Yorkspud 13 Mar 2007
In reply to I am the God of Strathyre:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> Certainly not short of balls, maybe marbles are more lacking?
>
> Davie

Digits surely?
 Erik B 13 Mar 2007
In reply to nicholas Barrowclough: have you done the eigerwand?
 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Erik B:
> (In reply to nicholas Barrowclough) have you done the eigerwand?

Yes, he has.
 Burnsie 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Erik B:

There is a post about it every week, almost like asking if Norrie has done psychedelic wall.
 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Burnsie:
> (In reply to Erik B)
>
> There is a post about it every week, almost like asking if Norrie has done psychedelic wall.

Did you like Psychedelic Wall when you did it?
 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Burnsie: Has Norrie done the Eigerwand?
 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Burnsie: Has Nick done Psychedelic Wall?
 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Burnsie: Are the two interchangeable, or mutually exclusive?
 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to CENSORED:

I seem to recall you are not good enough as a winter climber to even set foot on Psychedelic Wall.

When are you going to post about a winter route that you have done?

 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:
Dear Norris,
I spent three rather wet days up in Scotland back in January, that's my lot for this season, as my wife was pregnant until last month and now I'm a dad again, I need to pull my weight with the toddler (yes there's (plenty of it to pull, before you even go there).

Regards as ever,
C
 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to CENSORED:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)

> I spent three rather wet days up in Scotland back in January, that's my lot for this season, as my wife was pregnant until last month and now I'm a dad again, I need to pull my weight with the toddler (yes there's (plenty of it to pull, before you even go there).


When are you going to post about a winter route that you have done?

 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir: Would you like to hear about my ascent of the Steall Waterfall back in December 1995? A lot of your posts seem to be about your past...
 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir: Or maybe Aber Falls in February 1996 ?
dogjogger 13 Mar 2007
In reply to teddy_simmon:
> (In reply to Deejay) well good luck to him and ihopefully it will al go wrong from what i have heard they will be very lucky to get a 6 day window of perfect weather

you have mail
dogjogger 13 Mar 2007
In reply to CENSORED:
> (In reply to Burnsie) Has Norrie done the Eigerwand?

eric jones has.
 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to CENSORED:

Is that all you can come up with, two routes.
 CENSORED 13 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir: You asked for 'a' route, that's singular.

 Norrie Muir 13 Mar 2007
In reply to CENSORED:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir) Or maybe Aber Falls in February 1996 ?

OK, tell me about your ascent of Aber Falls in February 1996. I was reading up about Aber falls on this thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=215804&v=1#3167934
Deejay 13 Mar 2007
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Deejay)
> All power to his elbow - anyone who can amputate his own frost bitten fingers with a black and decker certainly isn't short of balls.

Actually he held them in a vice and sawed through the bone with a hacksaw - got tired of waiting for the medics to decide what to do and couldn't stand the disconfort every time he knocked the ends.

Big cojones.

DJ

In reply to Deejay:

Sounds like Big Cojones in theory, but cutting off his necrotic fingers could very easily have allowed infection to set into his remaining hand and arm, leading to further loss of limb. A good reason why his docs told him to let the deid digits drop aff naturally.
His recovery to do marathon running after heart bypass surgery (against medical advice) was commendable IMO, but self amputation counts as nothing less than stupid to me.
All the same, I wish him well on the Eiger.

Davie
Deejay 13 Mar 2007
In reply to I am the God of Strathyre:

Further report on News at Ten tonight.

DJ
smart guy 14 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Yawn
 Norrie Muir 14 Mar 2007
In reply to smart guy:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
>
> ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Yawn

Yes, you would be bored as this is about climbing, which you have never did.
smart guy 14 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

ZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Yawn
I Parnell 17 Mar 2007
In reply to smart guy: Posted elsewhere but then spotted this, we summitted this morning. Worth watching news tonight if they show the summit footage incredible helicopter stuff.

Having now spent 4 days on the face I can say that Ueli Stecks recent sub 4 hour ascent is shocking, an incredible achievement.
Deejay 17 Mar 2007
In reply to I Parnell:

Congratulations to yourself, Kenton and Ranulph.

DJ
TWINKLETOES 17 Mar 2007
In reply to I Parnell: Glad you managed to drag the old fella up their. The mans amazing.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to I Parnell: I'm glad Ranulph did it, I have been critical of some of his 'gimmicky' expeditions in the past. It's good to know he is capable of something proper when pushed.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Ok Mick, but his gimmicks for his polar expeditions, led me to believe the next one was going to be the 'first man to hop on one leg to the pole'. I'm glad he chose the Eiger instead, at least it regained some of his credibility!
Al
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

5 million raised for charity....who can claim that? Sounds like a right character. More power to him.....alpine stuff...I don't care if he was guided, that's serious shit. Bloody fine effort at his age.

Mick
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Some of him is good, other is dodgy, I dont want to go into it, good effort on the Eiger, good effort for charity, maybe.
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Some of him is good, other is dodgy.

Sounds like most people I know.

 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Mick, he is only just older than me, I wouldnt think twice about being guided up the Eiger by Ian. In fact if I ever got over my injuries its still a realistic (unguided) target.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to TWINKLETOES: Old Fella?, 60 is not old these days, its the new middle age. There are 60 year old Brits leading 8a. and doing big things on mountains too. Don't write us off like that.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to TWINKLETOES:
> (In reply to I Parnell) Glad you managed to drag the old fella up their. The mans amazing.

He is not amazing, there are many climbers more amazing, many many, he is just a more amazing publicist.
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to TWINKLETOES)
> [...]
>
> He is not amazing

Of course he is you daft bat.

> there are many climbers more amazing

Keep on topic Al you are sounding very bitter. Yes there are lots of sixty year olds who get out there and do amazing stuff. I hope to be one myself one day...it isn't a freakin' competition you know.

Mick
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Mick, I'm not bitter I am realistic, he seriously is not amazing, except at publicity. I would happily go unfit onto a guided by Ian ascent of the N of the E. I still consider I may go for an unguided ascent if I ever get fit again
There are 60 year olds leading 8a, Joe is an amazing person, even Chris is, Fiennes is not, he is a publicist. I know lots of people who know him who could tell you the truth (but I'd have to kill you). Its not a competition, never has been, but people like him think it is, so it is.
We should be aware of the people that exploit our sport, or even the outdoors outside our sport. Fiennes is one of these. I could go on, but I won't
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Joe is an amazing person, even Chris is

Who are Joe and Chris? And what have they done on grit?
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: :-0) Well Joe did a bit when he were a lad, Chris is just crap, only ever did E4 on grit and shinned up a few big hills.
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) :-0) Chris is just crap, only ever did E4 on grit and shinned up a few big hills.

You talk of Christian Bonnington....he taught Sir Ranulph Fiennes the arts of publishity.........

0nward, Christian Bonnington, of the A.C.G.
Write another page of Alpine history
He has climbed the Eiegerwand, he has climbed the Dru--
For a mere ten thousand francs, he will climb with you:
Onward, Christian Bonnington, of the A.C.G.
If you name the mountain, he will name the fee.

Like a mighty army, faithfully we plod
Treading in the footsteps Bonnington has trod
From the Diretissima loud Hosannas! ring--
Grave, where is they victory, 0 death, where is thy sting?
Onward, Christian Bonnington, joyfully we sing,
Down with McNaught-Davis, Bonnington for King.

Live transmission will commence shortly after ten
From the Kleine Scheiegg and the Alpi-Glen.
Do not miss the spectacle, you can watch for free:
Bonnington is on the wall, Tune in on B.B.C.
Onward, Christian Bonnington, of the B.B.C

Fighting for survival, and a token fee.
When they climbed the Eigerwand, those two gallant men
They received a message (sent) from Number Ten:
Well done chaps, MacMillan said, Victory was your due;
Well done, Christian Bonnington, the Fuhrer’s proud of you
Onward, Christian Bonnington, hallowed be thy name,
Digging out a belay in the halls of fame.

-- Tom Patey

In reply to Al Evans:

Al, with Joe and Chris we are not talking about 60-yr-olds. Joe is now 76 and Sir Chris 72. (That 'even Chris' is very naughty. He is totally remarkable, and I have never met a more youthful septuagenarian.)
 Michael Ryan 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Woops....should have a put a Sir before Christian Bonnington.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

.. and please spell him correctly, Mick ... Bonington.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Gordon, I know, Joe occaisionally phones me. Him and Chris are in a different ball game to Fiennes, the man sickens me.
I have no respect for him at all, nothing I can see that would make me respect him. Everybody I know who has deep knowledge of him regards him as a charlaton, I have no deep knowledge of him but I had come to that conclusion from reading between the lines of his exploits and how he chose to portray them.
It really doesn't matter, he will hopefully never be important in the history of mountaineering.
Deejay 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Yeah you're right Al, I mean those Polar expeditions were just a load of self-promoting over-hyped bimbles. As for the Eco-races! And the nerve of the guy being dragged up the Eiger all the way to the top and taking his time about it too.

Amazing.

DJ
In reply to Al Evans:

My feeling about this is: don't worry, Al. Of course, RF will have no place in mteering history. Of course the guy probably had to jumar a hell of a lot of it, but even so, I really cannot find it within me to criticise him in any way: because it was overtly a charity stunt from the start, and to date he's raised over £5m for Madam Curie. That in itself is a huge achievement.
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: The point is that Fiennes thinks he is amazing and sets out to, and succeeds in convincing loads of other people too, a lot of who should know better.
On the amazing stakes he is probably something less than a thousandth of all the brilliant adventurers and climbers out there. Its nearly all just bull shit, I guess he does what he says he does, but its nothing compared to what proper climbers do. Mick Fowler, Nick Bullock et al, real people doing real things, he sickens me.
johnj 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Really Al is there any point to this ranting, it makes me think that you are pretty sad.
In reply to Al Evans: I don't admire fiennes for his climbing or his polar exploits, however i think the way he uses climbing as medium to raise millions for charity is brilliant. he never comes offer as pretending to be an awsome climber, which he clearly isn't. he raise a damn sight more for charity than you ever have or will.

get of you f*cking high hourse and stop posting shite - as usual. no one cares about the prositutes you sleep with and the fact you post about on public forums about CLIMBING is begars belief.
Deejay 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Ranulph's achievements in no way diminish the achievements of others Al and I think it's unfair to compare them. If we're talking achievements then Benedict Allen's unsupported crossing of the Amazon Basin compares favourably, in its own way, to any first ascent on an 8000m peak. You see when it's put like that it doesn't make sense does it?

I think this quote from Allen sums it all up nicely:

We are all explorers – it's part of what makes us human. You don't need to be a professional, like me, hacking through a jungle or listening to the tales of a remote tribe. We all explore, whether working as dealers in the Stock Exchange, or hunting as nomads in the heart of Borneo. And whether we gather what we discover into books, computer files or just memories, these are perhaps our most precious resource. These are our archives; our past and our future. As valuable as any fossil fuel or mineral, they help us mark where we are in space and time."

It's all relative Al, from the weekend warrior quietly leading their first HVS to a guide summiting Everest for the 3rd or 4th time.

The publicity may upset some but so what? The ascent of The Old Man of Hoy (?) was televised and may now seen by many as an important piece of climbing history yet Tom Patey appeared to be a little cynical about the whole thing in his autobiography.

DJ
 Steve Parker 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Give him a break, Al, he's just done something pretty amazing. Yeah, he ain't Reinhold Messner at climbing, so what!
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
> get of you f*cking high hourse and stop posting shite - as usual. no one cares about the prositutes you sleep with and the fact you post about on public forums about CLIMBING is begars belief.

Ahhh Tom, dont be so cruel. my posts are thought out and reasonable, By the way I have never slept (or screwed) with a prostitute. I dont mind that you dont like my posts, but as most of them are intended to be helpful its sad that you haven't made that connection. My horse (sic) is very low. I am interested in your vehemence, why, I post only the mildest of criticisms compared to what I could do, why are you so viscious?
In reply to Al Evans: Al your posts on climbing are usually very interesting, often with lots of first hand historical infomation, which an obsessive like me finds facinating. however some of the stuff you post on here i think is too persoanl and not relivant, i don't read DTP and TCR anymore.

I don't see what your problem with ran is, he is just using his celebrity status to raise a small fortune for a very worthy cause.

"I am interested in your vehemence" knew it would get a reaction
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: Yep Steve, I could have avoided it, and probably avoided the stick from Tom, but you will probably know me well enough by now that I'm not likely to do that,
What I am likely to do is never, ever post a post like Tom did, ill informed and with no saving grace of fact. Please Tom, don't do this. I don't want to fall out, why should we, There is no reason. lets be mates instead, if you want to discuss something with me get in touch.
Al
 jl100 17 Mar 2007
I suppose fiennes didn't lead any of the pitches did he? Was he dragged up or did he do it free?
In reply to Al Evans: Al the only reason i posted like that was to touch a nerve. i thought you weremaking some fairly unfair and uninformed comment on guy, just raising money for charity and having a good time while doin it.

which is what its all about init?
 Al Evans 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Be nice to talk to you sometime, I'll explain if we ever do.
You are welcome on the Costa anytime.
 Steve Parker 17 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> I suppose fiennes didn't lead any of the pitches did he? Was he dragged up or did he do it free?

Come on, man, he's in his 60s, he's not a climber, he can't stand heights. What do you reckon? He did pretty damn well getting up, whatever any elitist climbers might make of it.

Gets my respect.

 Steve Parker 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
>just raising money for charity and having a good time while doin it.
>
Dunno about that 'good time' bit. My impression was that he was well scared much of the time, and he won't be taking up mountaineering. I agree entirely with the rest of your points, though.

In reply to Steve Parker:

Yes, his comments on the Traverse of the Gods are revealing enough.
 jl100 17 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: I dont know anything about the man, thats why i asked the questions. I just happen to know many rich people are dragged up everest by sherpas and was curious to see whether the same tactics had been taken with this guy as i didn't think he was an Alpinist as usually some one being guided up this route in 4 days doesn't make the climbing news.

"Come on, man, he's in his 60s, he's not a climber, he can't stand heights. What do you reckon?" i reckon he probably should be 'climbing' the N face of the Eiger

Now ive read a little more i think he should have been more respectful of the alpine style of climbing, im sure the acheivement would have been greater if he'd have climbed it without being helicoptered off the top.

I am happy he's raised money for charity and but perhaps celeb Fame Academy would have been more suitable?
In reply to JoeL 90:

I see him as someone who sets himself objectives and strives to achieve them. He's been doing that for a long time and I don't see any problem with that; especially as it's also for charity.
Ultimately all mountaineering objectives are arbitrary, so who is to say that one person's objective or style is more or less worthy than another's?
The people I admire most are genuine pioneers; but not everyone is in that league and certainly not me, so if others achieve their own personal objectives, that's fine by me.
 Foxache 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

I could understand it getting people's backs up if he were trying to make out that he's an accomplished climber, but fair play to him admitting that he isn't really a climber at all and he's terrified of heights.

At the end of the day even if he jumarred most of it, at 63, with missing digits and a strong fear of heights I think he did bloody well, and he raised a load of cash for a good cause to boot.
 Foxache 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> get of you f*cking high hourse and stop posting shite - as usual. no one cares about the prositutes you sleep with and the fact you post about on public forums about CLIMBING is begars belief.

Harsh. Al's opinion may differ from yours but I don't think he deserved that.

 Tyler 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Al, I'm amazed at your attitude. I'm the world's biggest cynic when it comes to media driven bull (cf. Annabel Bond) but I really can't see anything not to admire about this. You say its the sort of thing you would contemplate doing and I sometimes contemplate it myself but the difference is he has gone out there and done more than that. There may well be "better" achievements but there doesn't have to be only one great achievement in the world. Personally I'm in awe of what he has done as I get the impression the N face is a genuinely scary and dangerous place to be no matter who you are with.

All power to him, an amazing feat on any level.
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler: I cannot help sympathising with Al's views. I find people who who do personal glory acts for charity particularly annoying and they won't get a penny from me. If they really care about the charitable cause they can work and give money directly.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler: But you and I would do it quietly without all the hype that accompanies anything Fiennes does. How many of the people out there, or even on here, know that Nick Barrowclough, who quietly posts on here did a winter ascent a year ago. Unguided, shared the lead with his mate.
Thats a climber, and Fiennes is a publicist.
nikolai 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: But its the charity that wins in the end,dos it matter if there is a bit of self publicism, look at the biger picture.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to nikolai: Its not just the charity that wins, thats all part of Fiennes marketing himself, how do you think he makes his money.
nikolai 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: however you look at it its the charity that gains regardless of personal self interest
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to nikolai: Good for the charities, but I dont have to like the man doing it or the way he does it.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Jimmy Saville was the same, an obnoxious man who thought he was wonderful because he raised money for charity.
Stac Pollaidh 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> How many of the people out there, or even on here, know that........

maybe more than you would think Al
ps those midget gems were minging (if you remember), avoidance recommended
kentoncool 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Stac Pollaidh: to Al Evans: (This is Ian Parnell on Kenny's computer) Morning Al, bit early for ranting isn't it. Expected this kind of discussion as its always raised when "outsiders" get involved in climbing with the media. So my pennyworth having spent a fair amount of time with Ran. You are right Ran is very good at publicity, and yes he will do lots of lectures on the back of this, there will probably be a book too. If that bothers you then fine, but throughout this climb Ran has been very humble about his climbing skills and has never claimed much special about himself. In my view however he is an exceptional guy with a tremendous ability to keep battling away and push himself through an adventure that was a long way from his natural terrain. Both Kenton and I were inspired to climb with him.

2 other points if you think the charity aspect was just a byproduct of his publicity ventures then you are way off the mark. Ran's wife Ginny, his mother and his sister all died of Cancer. I've a friend who is dying of cancer too its something that leaves a massive impact on you, the sort of thing you don't fake, the sort of thing you want to do something about. Ran is doing something about it - his everest trip raised well over 2 million quid for the British Heart Foundation, it wouldn't surprise me if he did the same again for Marie Curie this time.

Final point is the question about did he do it free? The poster obviously hasn't been on the route. Almost no one does it free, Ueli Steck an his recent speed ascent, and i suspect every other party that climbed it this week, including Kenton and myself all used the fixed gear to pull on on the hardest pitches.

Anyway all part of the fun this kind of discussion. Al its a fantastic route, I hope the injuries heal up and you get a go on it. Cheers Ian
 sdodd 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: I'll support Al. I interviewed Mr Fiennes a few years ago, and my impression was that I'd never met a man who cared as little for wilderness and as much for self-publicity.
 Dee 18 Mar 2007
In reply to sdodd: I'm not sure I'd polarise the thread; just 'read between the lines' in Ian's response and the inferences are obvious. This isn't to detract anything from anybody...

The motivation for ths ascent is clear:- well done all for a safe and successful ascent with the potential to do a lot of good for many people - and there aren't many alpine ascents that can have that quality!
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Tyler) But you and I would do it quietly without all the hype that accompanies anything Fiennes does. How many of the people out there, or even on here, know that Nick Barrowclough, who quietly posts on here did a winter ascent a year ago. Unguided, shared the lead with his mate.
> Thats a climber, and Fiennes is a publicist.

He's a professional adventurer, so he has to be a publicist, just like many pro mountaineers have to be publicists these days. He's raising money for Marie Curie because he lost 3 members of his family to cancer within a year, including his wife. Lots of us know about Nick Barrowclough, and much respect to him, but this isn't a competition, it's about having a bit of respect for a 63 year old bloke who has managed to confront some pretty major fears and get up the North Wall of the Eiger. It's not really a moment for Fiennes-slagging, Al. It's a moment for celebrating someone's achievement.
pwhiteside 18 Mar 2007
In reply to kentoncool: Well done to you and Kenton on getting yourselves up safely. I'm glad it went alright for you and you all (including Ran) deserve to be very proud of yourselves.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to kentoncool:
>Kenton and myself all used the fixed gear to pull on on the hardest pitches.
>
Hi, Ian. Great result, and well done to you, Kenton and Ranulph. Much respect from me. Bit of a change of topic, but what kind of grades did you encounter on the hardest bits?
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to kentoncool: "Final point is the question about did he do it free? The poster obviously hasn't been on the route. Almost no one does it free, Ueli Steck an his recent speed ascent, and i suspect every other party that climbed it this week, including Kenton and myself all used the fixed gear to pull on on the hardest pitches." No as im sure ive said, ive never been on the N face of the eiger and intend to wait until im ready to do so(which will be a very long time or not at all). The question i asked passed no judgement on whether or not he should have, was just curious, as i know it has been done. Do I have to have a certain ability to ask questions like this? Thanks for answering my question.
Joe
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> (In reply to kentoncool)
> Bit of a change of topic, but what kind of grades did you encounter on the hardest bits?

V4 if you do it direct....V2 if you use that jug out right. Conditions dependent though, and safer if stack 3 pads and have 4 spotters.

Always done ground-up, helicopter descent makes it no easier.

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Does a bouncy castle at the start lower the grade, or is it graded with pads taken into account?
 Moacs 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

Christ what a depressing thread.

I've no problem with the ascent or the manner of it - in fact I think both are admirable.

Yes, he plays the media. Impressively skillfully too.
No, he's not (by his own admission) an expert mountaineer.
But he stuck it.

And he's had the drive and vision over the years to use his various talents to the maximum. I'll be a happy man if I can say the same when I finally get old.

And Francoise - did I understand correctly that you think he should get an ordinary job and donate to charity directly? Care to estimate how long it would take you to notch up £5m like that??

Unbelievable - both the man and the reactions to it on this thread.

John

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Moacs:

My feelings exactly. He sure has lived his dream - who can do better than that?
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Moacs:
> (In reply to Deejay)

> Unbelievable - both the man and the reactions to it on this thread.

I'll think you will find John that as well as the critics, there are many (not all posting here) who say job well done and congratulations. I wouldn't focus too much on the negative ramblings...they are few.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Also see

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=232944
 Moacs 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Thanks for those Mick.

I'm glad the whole team is getting some love back too!

J
 blueshound 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> The point is that Fiennes thinks he is amazing

> he sickens me.

Congratulations Al, a new all time low, even by your standards.

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
>I guess he does what he says he does, but its nothing compared to what proper climbers do. Mick Fowler, Nick Bullock et al, real people doing real things, he sickens me.

On the unassisted crossing of Antarctica, Fiennes and Mike Stroud had calculated exactly how much they could feasibly manhaul on sleds. The calculation included how much bodyweight they could afford to lose over the trip without collapsing. Basically, they set off to slowly die of starvation and hard labour, and make it across with a few days to spare. You should see the pics of Ranulph afterwards - he looks like a skeleton, having lost something like 5 stones. If that's not sheer willpower in action, and not a serious achievement, then I don't know what is. I know it's fashionable to bash famous achievers, but give the man his due.

 Big Yin 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
I think that being dragged up this route for a publicity stunt degrades and insults those that risked their lives and lost their lives trying to do the first ascent .
There were a huge amount of inspirational attempts to climb this route with quite tragic consequences for many.

To me this was total buffoonery and I am surprised the guides involved did it,were they paid ?
For them I suppose any publicity is better than none.
I suppose they have to make a living and it must be difficult at times to balance commercial pressures.

I also agree with Al Evans sentiments.

I think this was a gross insult to all the history of the Eiger NF represents.

I dont really like any form of mountain circus type events,its not what the mountains mean for me.

Apart from that RF seems a right tosser who seems to make money for charity by doing some really stuipid things.

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:
>
> Apart from that RF seems a right tosser who seems to make money for charity by doing some really stuipid things.

You've neatly shot yourself in the foot there. Who cares if he wants to dance naked on top of Nelson's Column if it makes a load of money for cancer research? By definition, it's not stupid. He lost 3 members of his family in quick succession to cancer. I suspect he genuinely cares about it.

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
>
> On the unassisted crossing of Antarctica, Fiennes and Mike Stroud had calculated exactly how much they could feasibly manhaul on sleds.

I just looked it up - the sleds weighed 485 lbs at the start. Anyone fancy pulling one of them for 50 days?
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to kentoncool: Ian, my comments are not just out of the blue, I have met the man, twice, and I know people who are to say the least well informed and dispute some of his claims. Maybe he was misquoted, you know what the media are. Lets leave it that he raises lots for charity and I guess that has to be a good thing.I'm not suprised he was humble, his life depended on you.
I have done a feeble recce, just the solo up to the diff crack, and planned it about 5 years ago but my mate had to cry off due to work commitments.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: Precisely, why do it? Dogs can do the job a whole lot better, my thoughts after that were, I wonder if he'll hop it on his right leg next, then maybe change legs for his next attempt.
 jimkeeley 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

FACT: All three have taken on a challenge that 98% of us will never have the minerals to even think about – For charity.

Well bloody done.

On Ranulf Fiennes:
I don’t care that you know someone that knows someone that interviewed him and didn’t like him, in fact; I don’t care if he pulls the legs of spiders in his spare time - he took on a massive personal challenge at undenialably great personal risk for massive reward for a charity that will help a lot of people in the current cancer ridden climate probably, chances are, someone you love or at least know the more “pr” he gets for that the better. All that’s before we even start thinking about minus some fingers, heart bypass’s & age!

How many of you have donated?
http://www.justgiving.com/EigerChallenge

I doubt it but, Mod’s if you see that as commercial I’ll be quite happy to fund it for a few weeks rather than pull it.

Ranulf, Kenton & Ian
Thanks for taking on the challenge for obvious reasons but also, thanks for probably reaching the public on such a wide scale since touching the void and telling them (and maybe bringing them to) the sport witch I (and hopefully a few other people on here) feel so strongly for.

Haters:
Isn’t there an argument about top roping or E0 or something you can go and have?

Jim
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Steve Parker) Precisely, why do it? Dogs can do the job a whole lot better, my thoughts after that were, I wonder if he'll hop it on his right leg next, then maybe change legs for his next attempt.

By the same argument, soloing the Eiger is daft, or soloing Everest without oxygen is daft. Or anything else. We should all do everything the easiest way possible. Why didn't he just fly over Antarctica? And climbing is really silly and artificial. All those people who shout 'You can walk up round the other side' are right. I'm off to Earl Crag with me ladder. Been wanting to do Desert Island Arete for ages. First laddered ascent coming up. I hope you'll be as impressed as if I'd soloed it one-handed.
nikolai 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Al your on a loser here. you may not like the man but you can't dispute the greater good for charity
In reply to Steve Parker:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> Been wanting to do Desert Island Arete for ages. First laddered ascent coming up. I hope you'll be as impressed as if I'd soloed it one-handed.

Do it with no hands, your feet tied together and blindfolded, then I'd be impressed. Mind a donate a fiver to charity afterwards.

Respect to the man for doing what he did. At least he's doing something good with the profile he's raised of himself.
 Tyler 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

> How many of the people out there, or even on here, know that Nick Barrowclough, who quietly posts on here

I'd imagine most people who post on here know he's done it, he begins every post with "When I did the NF of the Eiger in......".

> Thats a climber, and Fiennes is a publicist.

Exactly, he's a fund raiser and an exceptionaly good one so why do you then go on to say he's not as good a mountaineer as Mick Fowler etc? When someone does a sponsored walk do you just turn round and say "I have no respect for what you are doing as Paul Radcliff could do twice that distance in half the time?" Mick Fowler has never raised millions for charity it doesn't detract from his achievements. The bottom line is RF spent an attritional 5 days in an uncomfortable, alien environment for charity, whats wrong with that?
 Tyler 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:

> I think that being dragged up this route for a publicity stunt degrades and insults those that risked their lives and lost their lives trying to do the first ascent .
There were a huge amount of inspirational attempts to climb this route with quite tragic consequences for many.

Are those the Nazi inspired and funded first ascent attempts? Wasn't the first ascent itself turned into a big publicity stunt to demonstrate the superiority of the ayrian race?

Everyone who climbs this route does so for purely selfish reasons so from that point of view RF's ascent was more worthy than most.

> Apart from that RF seems a right tosser who seems to make money for charity by doing some really stuipid things.

Whilst you just seem like a right tosser who doesn't.
 Tyler 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:

> I find people who who do personal glory acts for charity particularly annoying

Whereas doing them pruely for personal ego is ok?

> If they really care about the charitable cause they can work and give money directly.

Isn't that what he's doing? His job is to raise money for charity which he does best by stunts like this rather than working 40 hrs a week in McDonalds.
 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin: I'm sure Ran has broad enough shoulders to ignore the bitching of utter no marks sniping from the cover of the eunuch cowardice of anonymity but it is a shame on this site and climbing in general that many interested patients and relatives will now see the pettiness and lack of humanity of some of these posts.

Ran Fiennes ran 7 marathons in 7 days only 4 months after suffering a heart attack, out of hospital cardiac arrest and coronary bypass surgery. With a background as a Cardiologist, climber and fell runner I regard the mental and physical aspects of this feat as his most impressive by a large margin, the Eigerwand is a mere diversion by comparison.

On top of the vast sums he has made for the BHF and MC he is a source of massive inspiration to patients with heart disease. If you think you can do better get out there and make a difference - if you can contribute a fraction of what this "tosser" has given your life will have been worthwhile
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to francoisecall)
His job is to raise money for charity which he does best by stunts like this rather than working 40 hrs a week in McDonalds.

Oh I'd just love it RF working in McDonalds, and thats the point isnt it, he is by profession an incredibly well paid charity worker, others do it for nothing other than that they care. What he does sucks.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> [...]
> What he does sucks.

and you're a shinning pillar who inspires?

Ian, Kenton, Ranulf, good job!!! good on your lads. the footage from the helicopter looked amazing, i have a great deal of respect for anyone who's climbed that wall


 Big Yin 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson:Many people quietly get on with their lives without seeking the glorification of the public/media.
I have spent 20 years so far in mountain rescue but dont need to publicise that.
I am entitled to my opinion and your silly remarks only show you be a bigger tosser that Randulph.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson: Nobodies saying his raising money for charity is wrong but the guy was educated at eton. its not like he needs to get a proper job, and so he can devote all his time to charity and more often self publicity and stupididty. Attempting the eiger NF with no discernable skill is not only putting his life in danger and also obviously the two guides, but it will put the lives of the swiss moutain rescue in danger and possibly others on the face. this was a very dangerous and selfish thing to do. Luckily it turned out OK and now hopefully Marie curie will benifit.

In future his vast amounts of time would be best spent working on his singing for celeb fame academy or any other TV he could use to raise money. I also think that big yin has contributed to the life of others infinately more than fiennes.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to nikolai:
> (In reply to Al Evans) Al your on a loser here. you may not like the man but you can't dispute the greater good for charity

No I can't, and thats to his credit, but thats all that is. I can despise him for making his living out of it when so many do it for nothing. And I can see the things he does as stupid self agrandisement and inflation of his own ego. He makes money out of doing things (adventures) we all like to do, things that fulfill his ego and that most of us would keep to ourselves, charity or not, and hides it all behind a facade of charity work. Nonsense.
 skeev 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:

> I have spent 20 years so far in mountain rescue but dont need to publicise that.

Until now.

 john yates 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al. I have played a very small part in Ran's Eiger Challenge and the man I have grown to know and respect is nothing like the figure Al alludes to. The publicity, which Ran is very good at, has all been to raise money for Marie Curie's new terminal care projects in Leeds, Lincoln and the North East. The financial support came from Yorkshireman Paul Sykes who funded Kenton and Ian and the helicopters and various other bits of the logistics...the result of which is that, over the last few days, Ran has raised over £1.5 million for Marie Curie. His attempt on Everest last year raised more than £2.5 million for the British Heart Foundation - who opened a new childrens unit in London a few weeks back. Ran is very unassuming and self-deprecating. He was the first to acknowledge he would not have got out of the hotel in grindlewald without Kenton and Ian, let alone climbed the Eiger. The fact is, he isnt a climber, hates heights, yet he put himself through this for a very good cause. Christ, we have so few good role models to look up to these days, and so little good news, it makes me cringe to hear Al bleating on about how he could do it - well, here is my challenge..Al, do the North Face of the Eiger with Kenton and Ian and beat the amount of money Ran raises for a good cause.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to john yates: John I couldn't, but thats mostly because I am not a self publicist' RF is good at putting himself through pointless exercises, its his career, as is his image, he needs you to like him. Look beneath the man, see what he is.
If he just did one impressive thing without telling the world about it I would think a lot more of the man.
I'm not bleating, the money for charity is a good thing of course, but your take on Ran being unasuming is nonsense, its clearly an image he needs to portray to carry on making money out of charity by doing pointless things that we would all 'enjoy' doing, being the perverse people that we are as climbers, but Ran being 'unasuming', really.
OP Anonymous 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler:
"Are those the Nazi inspired and funded first ascent attempts? Wasn't the first ascent itself turned into a big publicity stunt to demonstrate the superiority of the ayrian race? "

total tosh

"Everyone who climbs [this route][or any route] does so for purely selfish reasons "
agreed.

OP Anonymous 18 Mar 2007
this thread seems full of the same antichristian vehemence that poisons rocktalk from time to time and - I can't say it adds anything to the perception generated by those who have fallen victim to the temptation to make such comments
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> "Are those the Nazi inspired and funded first ascent attempts? Wasn't the first ascent itself turned into a big publicity stunt to demonstrate the superiority of the ayrian race? "
>
> total tosh

Maybe a bit of a simplification... but it's not tosh at all, I'm afraid.
 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:
> (In reply to Paul Atkinson)Many people quietly get on with their lives without seeking the glorification of the public/media.
> I have spent 20 years so far in mountain rescue but dont need to publicise that.
> I am entitled to my opinion and your silly remarks only show you be a bigger tosser that Randulph.

You really expect anybody to believe any of this nonsense?! Hilarious, every coward will lie their weay out of trouble. I suppose you have to protect your anonymity because you're in the SAS and MI5... and that. I have never met anyone who works in an MRT who is too chickenshit to put their own name to their opinions. You libel a respected public figure (national hero?), name-call like a child at me and then claim some dubious respectability by fabricating a tale likely to appeal to climbers!

I find your views on Ran offensive but many may agree with you - are you scared your friends, family, clients know what you think? Are you a 12 year old girl in Wisconsin trolling a UK website? Who knows?

Put up or shut up - if you are what you claim to be then have the cojones to come forward until such a time the natural presumption is that you are not only a coward but also a liar

yrs etc P
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson: i believe it, why shouldn't i. Also theres no reason why he should post his name not many people do on these forums. Offensive is you calling someone a liar with no real proof other than that fact your angry because hes made your point about him being a lesser person than mr fiennes look quite stupid.
 KeithW 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to john yates) John I couldn't, but thats mostly because I am not a self publicist'

Says the man who can't tell us the sun is shining without mentioning he knows Michael Fish...
 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: nice try Mr Big Yin
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

What IS quite stupid is assuming the worst about Ranulph Fiennes without knowing him. The facts we have about him suggest he's concerned with charity, works hard to raise money for charity, likes adventures, isn't averse to a bit of publicity, is a paragon of willpower and fortitude, is an inspiration for many people around the world. The assumption being aired is that he's a tosser and that his adventures are just publicity schemes for his huge ego. Interestingly, the people who have posted here who know him don't seem to share this view, so I think I'll take their word for it over that of anyone making cynical, nasty assumptions based on zero evidence.
 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Paul Atkinson) i believe it, why shouldn't i. Also theres no reason why he should post his name not many people do on these forums. Offensive is you calling someone a liar with no real proof other than that fact your angry because hes made your point about him being a lesser person than mr fiennes look quite stupid.

There's nothing wrong with anonymity if you're going to argue about grades, gear, whatever - but if you are going to make personal attacks against somebody, to hide behind anonymity IS cowardly

 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to KeithW:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> Says the man who can't tell us the sun is shining without mentioning he knows Michael Fish...


I dont know Michael Fish.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to KeithW: And acxtusally I'm very reticent at saying just who I know, I only do it because
1/ When its relevant
2/ To shut up people being ridiculous about who they have met.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> (In reply to JoeL 90)
isn't averse to a bit of publicity,

Bit of an understatement there Steve.
 Sandrine 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Why not see him as a positive model of a celebrity? There are so many around who do nothing worthy at all and yet make a lot of money and yet do not share it with anyone in need and yet are adulated.
At least he works hard at what he does.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Sandrine: just think when jade goody conquers everest, the bile in some peoples bellys, at least al with all his connections might be able to get on the trip as head teaboy
 Sandrine 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj:

Don't know much about her, not even what she looks like, but she is unlikely to get herself there, is she?
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Sandrine: i'd be more than amazed is she did, go jade go!!!
 Sandrine 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj:

No, leave her somewhere on a beach in the Carribean or something.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Sandrine: i think she's in india at the moment, she's aiming that her actions will cause world peace, so i've heard
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: "so I think I'll take their word for it over that of anyone making cynical, nasty assumptions based on zero evidence." ive not said hes a 'tosser' or that hes just on an ego trip.I think in his so called adventures he can be summed up as someone who is misguided (not by Kenton or Ian but in his attempt to do what is right)and is also selfish, especially in his regard for those around him on the Eiger Nordwand. If he wanted to do the Eiger NF wait till hes ready (im planning on doing this itll take a long time but who cares) and do it in style. If raising money for charity is his aim he should do one of those charity reality TV shows, id sponsor him if he promised not to do anything stupid again like publices himself as some really hardcore explorer.

The main aim of my posts was simply to spark some debate over the style of the ascent and over whether or not it was a good thing to do. It was good to see what Ian Parnell thought of the whole thing anyway

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: ill be happy if she does becasue the accepted style on Everest is so low that she will probably do it in good style compared to the current style. I have alot more respect for her than ranulph at least shes worked her way out of quite a poor background and seems to be learning all the time from mistakes.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Sandrine:
> (In reply to johnj)
>
> Don't know much about her, not even what she looks like, but she is unlikely to get herself there, is she?

Think of a pig!

 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: Yep, she's certainly not an 'Eton Boy', I guess Ran can't help that, but he could try.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson: i cant imagine Ranulph fiennes caring. his aim is no doubt to reach those who know little about alpnism and portray what hes done as extreme and 'ard rather than silly and with little respect for those around him.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Well he likes to think himself an adventurer now so far visiting the N and S pole isnt that adventurous considering Amundson did the S pole about 70yrs previous? But time travel...id sponsor him.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

is the problem in your eyes with Ranulf, or with the style of his climb? or does it go deeper than that?

i just find it hard to understand, why Ranulfs climb upsets people 1938 is not the cutting edge Ueli Stecks recent climb shows what is

A magnificant route, i'd love the chance, to one day see how it goes, but to come out with some of the thoughts on here, when at the end of the day money has been raised, which wouldn't have, is a little twisted

if Ranulf didn't have the role he has someone else would, i've read of his exploits, and i've nothing but praise, so he tells the world and makes his living from what he does... we all have to make a living, thats life
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

I can hardly believe some of the stuff I'm reading here and it makes me extremely sad.

It seems some are obsessed by class, jealousy, authenticity, petty concerns about style, old grievances, competition and are driven by over-inflated egos.

This isn't about any of the above. Please read what Kenton, Ian and others have written, and reflect on it for a moment.

This man had raised millions for charity, for others....who gives a damn about any kudos he gets for this ascent as an 'extreme/ alpinist'. He's been open and honest about his fears and experience and seems to be under no illusion about his 'climbing prowess and authenticity' that some are carping on about.

Please give it a rest.

Mick

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: Im not sure really i only found out about him earlier this week, id never heard of him before. I totally disagree with the style and believe if you get the helicopter of a mountain then it is a rescue and therefore you have failed. I suppose i just cant underdtand why he gets publicity for being a rather poor climber and as an adventurer with no obvious talent. his acheivements only stand out as very few others have the time to do such things (they have to work get educated or what ever. If everyone had the opportunity to go to the S pole with all the equipment he had then it would be acheivable by hundreds of millions of people. Same with the Nordwand, if everyone had the time and could afford for two of the UKs best alpinists to guide them up the face again millions would do it. So i think its the publicity he gets for having no talent that is the problem there are plenty more people who do more heroic things to raise money for charity but dont get a mention.

Finally he doesn't need to make a living, the guys loaded.
 Marc C 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Indeed a fantastic achievement, and for charity too. But if you think raising reservations about being airlifted off is a 'petty concern over style', sorry, I have to disagree. The media coverage of such activities can create very slanted yet influential images of our 'sport' - personally, I loathe News at 10 reporters filmng explorers arriving at the South Pole, drinking champagne, then being airlifted away - as though it's a big circus trick.

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I agree the money raised for charity is ace and have already said this. Also im not jealous it seems he was sh*t scared for most of the ascent whenever i climb im always happy. Im just always amazed by the how the media works in this country and how things get reported whilst also raising a question over the style of the ascent. Something you always put in your headlines, although not always completely accurately.
 martin mandel 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
i would like to thank mr fiennes for his ability to make a career out of fundraising. my son (7)had twelve hours of major major lifesaving heart surgery 18 months ago at the yorkshire heart centre in leeds. this and other heart centers rely on fundraising and charitable donations for their existence. 3 months after his op (the last of 3)he was skiing black runs in Austria. 6 months after his op and six years old he was following multipitch routes like doorpost, alisons rib etc on bosigran (cc family meet).
he leads a near normal life now and so do i !! thanks to the efforts of the many fundraisers who do not seek publicity AND the efforts of the few that do seek it.
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Marc C:

The way I look at it is that the mainstream media will always make climbing news more digestible for the general public and cannot paint the full picture due to lack of time, lack of understanding, the attention span of the reader and space constraints.

It is something we have to live with and it is pointless moaning about it.

Some do a better job than others of course.....Ed Douglas being one of the better journalists and writers who can explain climbing to the lay person.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
long before the role of an adventurer, he started on the first steps on his path with active service back in the day with 22 sas, now if anyone with no obvious talent can get through that, it says a lot for the masses, maybe you are truely gifted, if so i'd recomend using your talents wisely and get off this negitive path of bringing folk down.
Paul Sykes (maybe you should google him)the guy who put a lot of cash and resource into this exped, came out of darkest yorkshire, with nothing, and did very well to the point to do what he did.

i do understand what you're saying though about the helicopter, and style, but mate, you've never accepted a free lift when it's on offer, you'd have to be some form of total legend to do that
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> [...]
> His job is to raise money for charity which he does best by stunts like this rather than working 40 hrs a week in McDonalds.
>
> Oh I'd just love it RF working in McDonalds, and thats the point isnt it, he is by profession an incredibly well paid charity worker, others do it for nothing other than that they care. What he does sucks.

Al, you come across on here more and more as a very bitter person. The list of people you "hate" or "have no respect for" grows longer and longer. You seem to spend far too much time slagging off others (Blessed, Fiennes and several more) who don't fit your very narrow view of what constitutes an acceptable way to conduct a life.

Personally, I don't think the fact that someone does something for charity necessarily "excuses" what they do or how they do it (see some of my previous comments on 3 Peakers) but this constant slagging off of named individuals *just because* they're successful at something *you* don't like the idea of is getting boring.

How do you *know* how "well paid" Fiennes is? Sure, he earns from his books, but they hardly sell in the millions. He probably also earns a fair bit from motivational speaking, but then so do Stephen Venables, Al Hinkes, Jamie Andrew and the like. As far as I know he doesn't live a Beckham or McCartney lifestyle, and his arctic adventures are no more pointless than, say, being the first person to climb up a crack in a Lancashire quarry. And probably required a lot more willpower and determination over a much longer period.

As with others who've incurred your wrath, you're now making unspecified comments that "people you know to be well informed dispute some of his claims". Care to put some actual flesh on those bones rather than making vague innuendoes? Which of his trips do you dispute the facts of and on what grounds?

Personally, I do think that the "Everst circus" has devalued mountaineering, and possibly feel a bit concerned that the "circus" aspects now seem to be shifting to other mountains, but I can still see Fiennes as someone with grit, determination and the "get up and go" to live his life to the full, even if I don't agree with everything he does.

If you're going to argue against using the Eiger as a "charity stunt", why not do it with reasoned argument rather than spitting personal bile about individuals who you may have *met* but don't actually *know* in any real sense?
TWINKLETOES 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Dear Al, you seem a wee bit touchy about this age subject. I was refering to his overall achievments as an explorer and endurance athlete, rather than his climbing achievments. I hope this clears things up Grandad
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: I believe the pick up was planned. Ive also never climbed a route, taken a helicopter off the top before claiming an ascent to the worlds media. i also cant say ive ever taken a lift and then said to inrested pedestrians that i infact walked. All im saying is it isn't an ascent if you cant get down using your own ability.

He was also educated at eton so obviously was rich and so joined the SAS cos he thought it would be fun rather than becasue he couldn't find a job. But whether or not he was in the sas, it doesn't influence that fact that as a climber and explorer he has no obvious talent.

im only using my 'talent' to discuss the style of an ascent and the workings of the british media.
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to john yates) John I couldn't, but thats mostly because I am not a self publicist' RF is good at putting himself through pointless exercises, its his career, as is his image, he needs you to like him. Look beneath the man, see what he is.

Perhaps John *did* see beneath the image...you just seem to have made a decision on what the man "must" be like and will stick to that prejudice come thick or thin.

> If he just did one impressive thing without telling the world about it I would think a lot more of the man.

Some of the stuff he did in Oman in the army is quite impressive, and a lot of it hasn't been told to anyone much outside Oman.

And with respect to "not telling the world about it" I don't see that a certain individual has been particularly shy and retiring about "pointless" first ascents of bits of rock, judging by the frequency that the name crops up in guidebooks

 martin mandel 18 Mar 2007
INDEQUACY on their part Mick, rather than over inflated egos!!!
 martin mandel 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: mick - i'm referring to the critics - sorry about any ambiguity!
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: i think we'll have to disagree with you're definition of no obvious talent
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> his acheivements only stand out as very few others have the time to do such things (they have to work get educated or what ever. If everyone had the opportunity to go to the S pole with all the equipment he had then it would be acheivable by hundreds of millions of people.

What an absolute load of uninformed bollocks. Have you ever tried to pull a 485lb sledge for 10 minutes, never mind 100 days? And the bloke "got educated" in the normal way then spent a fair career in the army before embarking on a second (equally succesful)career, as far as I know. The polar adventuring was his 3rd "career"
>
> Finally he doesn't need to make a living, the guys loaded.

Was he "loaded" before he went into the army? Before he works for Armand Hammer? Is he actually "loaded" in the Beckham/ Ronney sense now? Being from an aristocratic background doesn't necessarily imply money. I know a viscount who spent most of his youth living in a squat without 2 pennies to rub together. As far as I know he lives on a fairly modest farm in the west country, not a stately home or anything.

Sounds as if your criticisms are based more on some outmoded type of "class envy" rather than any real knowledge of what the guy is or what he's done.

johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: also by your definition. if you climbed say the frendo spur, and got the cable down, thats not an ascent either
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: Fair enough, i know where your coming from, he definately is a very talented at self-publicity and also at raising money for charity. But compared to Lance Armstrong or Alexandre Vinokourov hes no where in terms of physical talent nor does he get close to Amundsun or Neil Armstring in the world of exploring.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> if you get the helicopter of a mountain then it is a rescue and therefore you have failed.

Interestingly enough, when this kind of rescue is available to everyone (more or less), it's amazing how many supposedly ethical Alpine climbers choose to take it. I've seen loads of the damn cheats being rescued from the top of the Frendo Spur or the end of the Midi-Plan Traverse by the brave employees of the telepherique company. Failures, all of them, though to hear them trumpeting about their ascents afterwards in the bars around Cham, you'd think they'd actually achieved something!
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: True! ill make a promise to you that should i climb it some day i wont come down the cable car and then claim an ascent to the media of the world. Id actually try and descend Cosmique arete, i think that would make a good day out.
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to johnj) Fair enough, i know where your coming from, he definately is a very talented at self-publicity and also at raising money for charity. But compared to Lance Armstrong or Alexandre Vinokourov hes no where in terms of physical talent nor does he get close to Amundsun or Neil Armstring in the world of exploring.

Dude....why all this comparison....he is what he is......tell you what, go do the Eiger.......walk to the north and south poles and report back to us.

You may also like to do it for charity rather than just for yourself!

 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to johnj) Fair enough, i know where your coming from, he definately is a very talented at self-publicity and also at raising money for charity. But compared to Lance Armstrong or Alexandre Vinokourov hes no where in terms of physical talent nor does he get close to Amundsun or Neil Armstring in the world of exploring.


I'm sorry but this is utter rubbish. Further apology for quoting my own post but I'm not the greatest typist:

"Ran Fiennes ran 7 marathons in 7 days only 4 months after suffering a heart attack, out of hospital cardiac arrest and coronary bypass surgery. With a background as a Cardiologist, climber and fell runner I regard the mental and physical aspects of this feat as his most impressive by a large margin, the Eigerwand is a mere diversion by comparison."

If you had any idea what this entailed you would realise that in terms of sheer hardness, drive, courage and self-control this guy is in fact right up there with your Fowlers, Taskers, Boukreevs, etc etc

peace P
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: yes you're right he's not a world class athlete, he's a 63 year old man, who's just been guided up the north face of the eiger to raise well over a million pound for the fight against cancer, in my eyes he is(and the team with him) are total stars
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> >
> He was also educated at eton so obviously was rich and so joined the SAS cos he thought it would be fun rather than becasue he couldn't find a job. But whether or not he was in the sas, it doesn't influence that fact that as a climber and explorer he has no obvious talent.

My son was educaed at Tonbridge, which has fees nearly as high as Eton's, but we're not rich...or even well off. I ran my last car for 12 years. My current one is 6 years old and I plan to run it for at least 4-5 more years. We've been waiting for a new stair carpet for 14 years!

I'd say 1/3 of the parents in my son's year were "rich", 1/3 were "comfortably off" and 1/3 made real sacrifices/ relied on scholarships to fund their kids' educations, so less of the "obviously rich" please. His family may or may not have been...I don't know. But if they were, presumably he could have chosen to spend his life as a "playboy" and didn't.

And no-one "joins the SAS because it's fun"...they have the little hurdle of something called Selection first, then Continuation Training to pass. I think that fewer than 10% pass Selection, so he can't have been quite the idle rich dilettante you're painting a picture of.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj:
> (In reply to JoeL 90) also by your definition. if you climbed say the frendo spur, and got the cable down, thats not an ascent either

Oops, missed yours!

johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: yes a poor effort, we had to spend the night in the womens toilet
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to johnj) True! ill make a promise to you that should i climb it some day i wont come down the cable car and then claim an ascent to the media of the world.

Joe

He's been perfectly up front about his ascent......he climbed the 1938 route with two very excellent alpinists. They descended by helicopter. No lies, no dishonesty. It is what it is.

Apart from that, according to his own accounts, he shat himself, was scared beyond belief. You been there yet, if you have, you might have some comprehension of what a great achievement this is for a 62 year old triple by-pass, few fingers, virtually none climber.

Alpine climbing is the real McCoy, however you do it.....at whatever level you climb.

M

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor: Im sure you need to pay large amounts of money to go to eaton i may be wrong ive never been but youd think with an education like that hed easily find a well paying job if he needed one. if you do need alot of money to go to eaton then it would mean he came from a rich background rather than just aristocratic. From this uninformed bollocks i conclude that yes he was rich before the army although im unsure.

Also my 'inadequate' knowledge has let me down, i assume you aren't referring to a minty biscuit, could you please enlighten me on what exactly a viscount is.
Beckham and Rooney are two of the most talented footballers on the planet and get as much as they do becasue such talent is very rare. Compared to them Ranulph probably isn't loaded but he is pleasantly well-off at the least.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj:
> (In reply to Steve Parker) yes a poor effort, we had to spend the night in the womens toilet

Don't get me wrong, I was being ironic. I don't think there's anything wrong with using the phrique, or getting a helicopter off the Eiger either, as long as you don't pretend otherwise. If we declare anyone who does so to be a cheat or a failure, we get into some serious ethical problems. What if you lower off a crag, or abseil down a big wall? Is that cheating because you didn't walk/climb down? Fiennes would have failed if he'd stated that his mission was to climb up and down the Eiger. He didn't, and he achieved exactly what he set out to achieve.

 Trangia 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Ran bashers

I can't believe I have been reading such a vindictive load of bollocks from apparantly mature and sensible people. Climbing the north face of the Eiger with or without guides is one hell of an acheivement for most people, but for it to be completed by a 63 year old man who only a few years ago had a near fatal heart attack requiring a double by-pass, and who happens to be a non-climber who is scared of heights, is an admirable achievement by any standards. Furthermore he has used his fame as a platform by which to raise funds for a well deserved cause in doing the climb. What the hell is wrong with that?

He is an individual who has probably achieved more in the way of endurance expeditions and adventuring than any living person. From being in the thick of highly dangerous military operations in Oman to walking across Antarctica to running in Marathons in all 7 Continents AFTER his heart surgery, just to mention a few of his exploits singles him out as a remarkable man. In the last year or two he has been touched by more than one deeply personal tragedy, yet he hasn't given up and retreated into self pity, quite the opposite. For goodness sake whether you approve of his social background, or his publicity seeking, you have got to hand it to him - he is an incredibly tough individual who deserves more than the petty sniping which has been shown on this forum.
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler: If he put the energy he does in his adventures in a business, he could donate money.
 tobyfk 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:
> Being from an aristocratic background doesn't necessarily imply money.

My understanding is that the Twisleton-Wickham-Fiennes family - or close relatives thereof - continue to hold on to Broughton Castle in North Oxfordshire, though they do have to open it up to plebs from time to time. However, as you say, that doesn't necessarily imply that Ran T-W-F is especially wealthy himself. And it isn't relevant to whether or not we should admire his ascent of the Eiger.

Personally, though, I am sympathetic to the views that Al, Francois and others have expressed. I don't really see how this guided ascent - two guides! - of a media-friendly mountain differs from the endless Everest circuses? They all devalue authentic achievement. And as to charity fund-raising, I am totally jaded by people who seek sponsorship for doing something they desire to do anyway.

petejh 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I think your real issue with this Al is that you are jealous of what he did. The man did something you would so like to do and he did it in what to your mind was a lame style, and that's touched a nerve with you. Personally I reckon the media event was a load of bullshit with no relevence to me as a serious climber but unfortunately it's nothing new. I'll worry about next months rent and when it's going to get sunny, not what's going on in a circus I have zero interest in.
Everyone likes to be noticed whether it's by the world or just some people staring at a screen. Tell me part of you doesn't secretly enjoy all the attention you're getting on here?
It's all a bit gay this but I'm stuck somewhere with time to kill.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor: Why didn't you send him to a comprehensive then, there very good especially now with a Labour gov. I go to one. Im no great advert for them but at least in them people are equal. Dont moan about your hardships there are plenty of people who cant afford to frivolously throw about 9000 pounds a year so their son can be educated among a bunch of elitist rich people. Why did you make the sacrifice, its not doing the world any good it will simply mean if others follow you that the rich will be well educated and the poor remain poor. Hopefully some more articulate person will also disagree with these pathetic private schools and argue against them too.

Luckily it doesn't seem this will continue as people at non fee schools simply have a desire to learn and hopefully some day these unfair establishments will be all gone so each child has an equal chance to get educated.
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:

As I said above, I have no idea of the circumtasnces of *his* branch of the family.

And as I also said, I have reservations about the "Everest circus" being extended to other mountains.

But that's not what I'm deploring. I'm deploring the personal bile and vindictiveness pouring out of some people above, largely, seemingly, based on "class", and the uninformed bollocks that implies that "hundreds of millions" of people would be capable of man-hauling a 485lb sled across the Antartctic for 100 days "if only they had the time".
 tobyfk 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> You been there yet, if you have, you might have some comprehension of what a great achievement this is for a 62 year old triple by-pass, few fingers, virtually none climber.

It would be an equivalent achievement to Sir Ran T-W-F doing an unguided ascent of a <insert name of more modest alpine route> with another sexagenarian pal. Except it wouldn't be newsworthy, and upright fellows like Kenton and Ian wouldn't have got paid ... and, gosh, the horror: perhaps the guiding industry's available funds for advertising on UKC might be fractionally lower?

shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
If he put the energy he does in his adventures in a business, he could donate money.

Or it could go bust........Get off his back.

Fantastic achievement....Charities need and rely on remarkable men, women and kids like Ranulf Fiennes.

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Trangia: He doesn't come close to pro cyclists in terms of endurance. Considering theres about 1500 of them id say on the list of endurance feats if there is such a thing hed be at best 1501st
 Trangia 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

Oh FFS grow up!
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: I think the only way to solve this issue in the UK is to ban private schools. But Labour did not have the guts to that especially as they send their children there! As long as there will be private and state school, there will be a strong social divide.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:
> (In reply to tobyfk)
>
> As I said above, I have no idea of the circumtasnces of *his* branch of the family.
>
> And as I also said, I have reservations about the "Everest circus" being extended to other mountains.

So is the N face of the Eiger the next Everest, or The Walker Spur, lots of big money and real climbers being priced out? Its a terrible precedent.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Trangia:i forgot professional runners many top alpinits people who sail yahts arout the world. my figures are well out. Please accept my apologies i must stop my childish byass to the pro cyclists.
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo: I would be interested to see a breakdown of sources of funds for charities. Knowinf a bit about the legislation regarding charities I am also very suspicious of the real motives of some people starting charities or organising fund raising events. Did you know that you can pay yourself a fee or salary, and get all your costs? Doe the public know exactly how much of the funds raised actually reach the charities?
 john yates 18 Mar 2007
Having worked with Ran quite closely over the last five months, I think I can safely say he is not a self-publicist. The publicity he seeks, is for the charities he serves. As Ian and Kenton have said, he is a man with deep reserves of fortitude and truly inspirational. In the various fund raisers I have attended, Ran has been self-deprecating and has given Kenton and Ian and the other members of the Marie Curie Cancer Care team the main billing. The attitude of (some) climbers on this post is really rather sad - Mick Ryan seems to have it in perspective - and is in marked contrast to those who were at the Leeds wall a few weeks back, raising money in support of Ran, Kenton, and Ian's Eiger Challenge. This guy is a tough cookie, but he doesnt brag about it. Quite the opposite. I think Kenton and Ian should offer to guide Al up the North Face and see how much brass he can raise.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: yes this is why my support for them has dissapeared in recent years despite their intail good will towards state schools. Youre right this is the solution but none of the three political parties seem to have it in their manifestos. Youd think they would as surely most people would support it and it would be an obvious relief of social tension.
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor) Why didn't you send him to a comprehensive then, there very good especially now with a Labour gov. I go to one. Im no great advert for them but at least in them people are equal. Dont moan about your hardships there are plenty of people who cant afford to frivolously throw about 9000 pounds a year so their son can be educated among a bunch of elitist rich people. Why did you make the sacrifice.

Who said I personally made a sacrifice? My lad won an Advanced Scholarship at 10, and the Ainslie Scholarship at 12, in a competitive examination with several hundred entrants from around the country. So he got a full scholarship (ie, was fully funded). The age of my car and stair carpet were illustrations that we're not *remotely* well off, not that I made additional sacrifices.

And as I said, although some were undoubtedly rich, many were not. And why *shouldn't* parents "frivolously" choose to use their after-tax income on an improved education for their kids rather than on "frivolous" foreign holidays, binge-drinking or new cars? I wonder how many of the kids at your comp are being privately tutored on the quiet? Even though Tony Blair manipulated the system to send his kids to a "good" state school miles from where they lived, he still felt it necessary to hire private tutors to bring them up to speed. Having experienced both systems, there's no comparison in the level of education. At 13-14 most kids in my son's year would have been quite capable of getting A grades in AS levels. Many took several GCSEs 2 years early and still got A*s.

And if you think people at comprehensives are "equal" think again: there can be a huge difference in the quality of schools according to location/ catchment area etc...then it's just a "postcode lottery": can your parents afford to buy a house near a "good" comprehensive rather than renting a flat next to a run-down school dominated by gangs?

Get real.
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Al let's organise a jolly "for charity". we are boith getting on with age, so clearly disavantaged, and I am a woman, so I am a weakling. What a HUGE effort for us! I think in 4 days we should manage. Everybody should praise us and give us lots of money. Then we can pay for some equipment and 2 guides each, the helicopters for some great photos, and boast in the pub! Maybe we could even get an entry in Guinness book of records for the oldest climbers on the Walker! Ans at the top let's have a UKC picnic.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Trangia) He doesn't come close to pro cyclists in terms of endurance. Considering theres about 1500 of them id say on the list of endurance feats if there is such a thing hed be at best 1501st

How many pro cyclists lose 5 stone in a race? Get real.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to john yates:
> Having worked with Ran quite closely over the last five months, I think I can safely say he is not a self-publicist.
Oh come on John its like he invented it. How can you say and really believe that.
broughton power 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: did the two guides wave their donate their fee to charity aswell
shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
Would anybody really want to sponsor you 2 to do anything?
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

You should read some Bonington stuff about fund-raising for mountaineering trips. He did all the same stuff as Fiennes back in the day. That's how you raise funds, whether you like it or not. I don't hear anyone calling Bonington a tosser, not even for that Outside broadcast circus on the Old Man. Some double standards going on around here.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: Love it, And Francoise, how many people know how much money we raised on that charity climb we did together at Westway? I remember sending the details to the Independant (not). But they never published it well they wouldn't with not knowing about it.
I guess we could qualify for the oldest mixed team to do the Walker.
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> From this uninformed bollocks i conclude that yes he was rich before the army although im unsure.

My "uninformed bollocks" comment was mainly in rference to your quite breathtaking ignorance of what it takes in terms of physical conditioning, willpoer, determination and guts to haul a 400lb + sled for 100 days in sub-zero temperatures. I doubt Lance Armstrong, Beckham or Rooney could come near to doing it, though Armstrong might have a better chance than Rooney or Beckham, if he could carry enough drugs . Ypou implied that hundreds of millions could do it, if they only "had the time". Sheer crap.

>
> Also my 'inadequate' knowledge has let me down, i assume you aren't referring to a minty biscuit, could you please enlighten me on what exactly a viscount is.

Google it.

> Beckham and Rooney are two of the most talented footballers on the planet and get as much as they do becasue such talent is very rare.

And Fiennes' talent for operating for months at a time in arctic conditions is probably equally rare, though you sem to think that anyone with a few months to spare could do it. In a long-term test of endurance and stamina in adverse, I'd back Fiennes, even at 63, over Beckham and Rooney any day.

 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor)
> [...]
>
> So is the N face of the Eiger the next Everest, or The Walker Spur, lots of big money and real climbers being priced out? Its a terrible precedent.

I can agree with that sentiment, but you weren't making reasoned arguments above, Al, you were spouting vindictive personal bile belittling the man himself, not the activity. And shame on you for it.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:
> In a long-term test of endurance and stamina in adverse, I'd back Fiennes, even at 63, over Beckham and Rooney any day.

Included in the 'endurance' bit should be some recognition of the unimaginable mental trial involved in long-distance polar manhauling. Mike Stroud was seriously contemplating shooting Fiennes at one point in the Arctic (they had a pistol in case of polar bear attacks) because Fiennes was so unrelenting and driven. The focus and drive required to keep going sound way beyond what most people are capable of.

 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to JoeL 90) I think the only way to solve this issue in the UK is to ban private schools. But Labour did not have the guts to that especially as they send their children there! As long as there will be private and state school, there will be a strong social divide.

And what happens when you ban them? you'll have the people with money paying for private tutors "on the side" for their kids who are at state school, and you'll still have the division of "good" state schools vs "bad" ones, with people moving house (or pulling political strings) to get their kids onto "good" ones.
 Paul Atkinson 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: But climbing is your game. For anything like a fair comparison how about you and Francoise haul a 400+lb sledge each to whichever pole you prefer, any guide, heli home, whatever - I'll personally pledge a grand to the charity of your choice
 John2 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I have better things to do than to read through all of the misinformed bile on this thread, but for what it's worth everyone I have met who has met Fiennes (at least three people) said that he is a thoroughly self deprecating and entertaining bloke.

And Francoise, if you and Al make an unaccompanied ascent of the Walker Spur I will personally donate £5000 to the charity of your choice.
 Rob Naylor 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor)
> [...]
>
> Included in the 'endurance' bit should be some recognition of the unimaginable mental trial involved in long-distance polar manhauling. Mike Stroud was seriously contemplating shooting Fiennes at one point in the Arctic (they had a pistol in case of polar bear attacks) because Fiennes was so unrelenting and driven. The focus and drive required to keep going sound way beyond what most people are capable of.

Agreed. I know I wouldn't be capable of it. I'd probably pack up in the first day or two, assuming I cold ever get the sled to move in the first place. To even contemplate doing it for 100 days would just freak me out.

One of my friends crossed Greenland unsupported and man-hauling for 42 days. I know very few people who could even have done the training he endured for that, never mind the actual haul itself.
Removed User 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Bizzare really all of this, you worked in the very media who live off this stuff....This Morning wasn't it?

good luck to him, he's hardly setting precedents in media hype and sponsorship is he..?

I am sure those that will benefit from the extra dough wont care about it, I guess in all of his endeavorers he's had to face his own demons at some point so only he will know what he's been through.

who pissed on your chips today :p


 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to John2: Now there is a challenge Francoise
John, what have I said that is'misinformed ' please?
And you have met 4 people who have met Fiennes, unless you were already including me.
Like I said he has an image to maintain with people that just doesn't square with his media role.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to John2:
> for what it's worth everyone I have met who has met Fiennes (at least three people) said that he is a thoroughly self deprecating and entertaining bloke.
>
I got that impression watching the news slots on ITV. When he was asked 'How was that?', after a traverse, he immediately said, 'Hair-raising, not my cup of tea at all', no bollox, no posturing, but also very calm. Also said if he'd known how much of a challenge it was going to be, he'd never have agreed to do it in the first place. Hardly the words of an ego-freak and inveterate self-publicist. Always seemed pretty cheerful, though, at least on camera.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor: Armstong could do it fifteen times before fiennes did it onces. Rooney and Beckham are also infinately fitter than fiennes. Your as bad as me for posting 'uninformed bollocks', i dont like armstrong his riding style is very dull Vinos far more exciting to watch but its never been proven hes taken drugs.

i believe if you get enough clothes its possible to survive in the actic providing youve got all the other equipment.

i cant be bothered googling it, but i presume its some ceromonial thing you get when youre rich enough and it can then be passed on from one toff to another. its probably this lack of research that leads to my posting of 'uninformed bollocks' but its more fun this way.

Well sone to your son i hope his ability to get these grades makes him a better person or whatever you want from him. He will no doubt benifit from this appaulingly unfair system while many others will suffer.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Removed UserAl Evans) Bizzare really all of this, you worked in the very media who live off this stuff....This Morning wasn't it?

And World in Action, and lots of the quality docs we used to do, I dont want to be thought of as a This Morning person. I worked in war zones all round the world, and its some of my contacts from those that gave way to my initial misgivings about Ran.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to simon c)
> [...]
>
>I worked in war zones all round the world, and its some of my contacts from those that gave way to my initial misgivings about Ran.


a bunch of hacks bitching


 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: ahh youve got me, the internationally recognised decider of how 'ard your endurance feat is. quite clearly this eclipses riding 160km at least for about 300 days a year for your entire career. Although if you follow cycling i think big jan probably did lose 5 stone in a single race.

I know someone who once gained 5 stone in one sitting for charity now that is something. believe me! maybe ranulph could do this next on top of cerro torre now hed get my respect.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: crap that was pounds but if ranulph could gain 5 stone in a single sitting that would be quite something after conquering the climbing and exploration worlds competition eating is clearly the next step.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: Not hacks, SAS and Marines.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: much as the same thing then, its part of the game slag off the duty Rupert, and this is what you then have, a load of bullshit
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: But have you considered they may have something?
 John2 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I wasn't including you in the three people, Al.

As for misinformation, you said above 'Jimmy Saville was the same, an obnoxious man who thought he was wonderful because he raised money for charity'. I do not believe Fiennes to be an obnoxious man. But you are far from the only person who has said things that cannot be supported on the thread.

I think that the majority of climbers are pretty selfish people. I have no idea whether Fiennes is deriving any income himself from this endeavour, but even if he is I am confident that it is dwarfed by the amount of money that has raised for charity. I think that an ascent such as this which raises a really substantial amount of money for charity is a more praiseworthy achievement than that of the Alpinist on holida who climbs the route unsupported.

Press interest in the North Face of the Eiger is no new phenomenon - all the accounts that I have read of the early ascents talk o telephoto lenses being trained on the face and of the stories of the ascensionists being syndicated around the world's newspapers (the income going to the participants rather than to charity).
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: yes someone got someones back up therefore someone told someone something about somebody, 10 years later, someone is feeling not on top of the world whilst somebody has just done a pretty amazing thing(for his age/condition), and makes up a whole plan that its disgusting. Have you read ranulfs book the feather men, thats a whole better book than this petty sniping with no substance.

from seeing bits on the tv, i thought it was pretty inspiring, maybe you should give it a crack, i'd donate to your cause
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to John2: Sensible post John, as I would expect of you, but seriously, I wish Fiennes had never got near a proper mountain.
 Simon4 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:
>
> Did you like Psychedelic Wall when you did it?

Yes, found it very good. An interesting and sustained route, but not all "thwack and pull".

petejh 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: If it interests you, 'feather men' was discredited by people who were there. Good story though. But more of a fiction based on events that happened.
petejh 18 Mar 2007
In reply to petejh: Which seems to be in line with the ethos of the man.
 centurion05 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

lol

al ur funny, or drunk again. He's been guided up the North Face of the Eiger. So what if its only guided. Its for charity.

Hows about you do a sponsored drink-a-thon. You're good at that.

Centurion05
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to petejh: hello Peter fancy see you here...that was why i mentioned it quite possibly a complete work of fiction, hows Canada?, it's john s from that job in oman the other year
 centurion05 18 Mar 2007
In reply to john yates:

I think Kenton and Ian should offer to guide Al up the North Face and see how much brass he can raise.

he'd raise f*ck all cos no one knows him and no ones interested about what he used to do.

shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to centurion05:
I think you are being a bit nasty.....but then again I think somebody deserves it.
petejh 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: Eh up fella. Canada's great, thanks. I'm sitting on a heli rescue stanby in northern b.c. as i write. That's why i've got the time to kill reading these crazy people on smacktalk. How you doing?
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to centurion05: I dont drink, are you really so shallow that you dont see the danger in what is going on. This is not a sponored walk up Mont Blanc, this is a 'stunt' on the NFOTE, a proper route, its the thin end of a wedge that climbers should rebel against,
One day you will grow up and become a real person. Maybe you already are and its just the venomous shit that you post that confuses us. My attacks on RF are based on sincere opinions based on facts, youre's are just, well what the eff are they?
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to centurion05:

I disagree with Al about this as much as anyone, but you're way out of order.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to centurion05:

Plus you're talking nonsense. Lots of people here, including me, are interested in Al's climbing career. Leave out the abuse, and grow up.
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to centurion05) you dont see the danger in what is going on. This is not a sponored walk up Mont Blanc, this is a 'stunt' on the NFOTE, a proper route, its the thin end of a wedge that climbers should rebel against,


Right Al.....cut the crap. Explain how this charity climb is a 'danger' and why climbers should 'rebel' against it?

Explain in full, explain how this is bad, explain what harm it will do, and to who?

Post up or shut up!

Mick
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to petejh:

i'm all right cheers, still in sunny Yorkshire, working a bit too much chained to my pc but it's all good, don't think it's quite the same as being where you are. Yeah they like slagging things off, i don't think they can help it.

Have a good one over there mate
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: Life would be boring without the slagging.
johnj 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: do you really think so??
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Because for a lot of people climbing is like a spiritual search. It feels violated by this kind of circus.

What about a praying marathon for fund raising?
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>
> Right Al.....cut the crap. Explain how this charity climb is a 'danger' and why climbers should 'rebel' against it?

You don't get it, do you, Mick? There used to be such a sport as skydiving, until all those weekend charity parachutists got started. It's just not the same any more. You go out for a sky dive, and everyone's granny is jumping out of a plane with her bloody poodle. Might look like a harmless charity climb to you, pal, but pretty soon there'll be a cafe on top of the Eiger and non-climbers will be running up it in mini-skirts.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj: If nothings ever criticised nother ever changes.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Because for a lot of people climbing is like a spiritual search. It feels violated by this kind of circus.
>
And for a lot of people it's nothing of the kind. It's whatever every individual climber considers it to be. And this event doesn't threaten it in the slightest, because it's nothing like as weak or in danger as a participant who wants to cling to some idyllic vision of climbing as purity.

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Although Als argument against it is a good one and will probaly happen for a little while i think that as soon as one of these rich adventure seekers dies on one of the routes this craze will be over and once again only those with the necaccsery skill will climb on them. However, hopefully they can be put off before someone gets hurt.
shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
Rubbish.........climbing is fun,a hobby, a day out with your mate, lots of things, but spiritual? You really are having a laugh and as for "violated by this kind of circus", you and Al are in your own little world on this one
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Because for a lot of people climbing is like a spiritual search.

But some seem to use their fingers on the keyboard to search for this so-called spirituality!

> It feels violated by this kind of circus.

Bollox. You get out on the hill and it easy to forget 'charity climbs' like this that attract media attention.

I'm waiting Al......post up. Explain how Sir Ranulph Fiennes' climb is going to affect anyone in a negative manner?

 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
>
> Right Al.....cut the crap. Explain how this charity climb is a 'danger' and why climbers should 'rebel' against it?
>
> Explain in full, explain how this is bad, explain what harm it will do, and to who?
>
> Post up or shut up!
>
> Mick
Ok Mick, seperate to my antipathy to RF and his self publicity, sorry not antipathy, repugnance.
The Chamonix and Courmayeur guides or whatever and local council, have every right legally to insist on the conditions to be applied to an attempt on the Eiger North Face. This 'stunt' just shows up the possibilities, I am seriously concerned that they may decide to allow only money making guided ascents, after all if such a high profile ascent proves that 'anybody' can do it, why not.
It has happened to Everest, why should it not happen to the Eiger?
Secondly, how many other smaller profile people will go for fund raising via The NF of the Eiger? Ok. Mr publicity got in there first, but will lives be lost after the precedent?
I'm sorry Mick, and Ian and Kenton (great effort by the way) but it was an ill thought out event. Thank god it all ended without tears, and earned lots for charity, but I think climbing should put RF to one side with a breath of relief.

 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Although Als argument against it is a good one

He hasn't got an argument yet and nor have you.
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

I just explained my personal sense of discomfort with charity climbs, in addition to some very real concern about the financial ethics. I don't expect everybody to hold the same view.

Am off to bed because tomorrow I am climbing or if weather is too crap am taking some fresh air in the storm.
 Denni 18 Mar 2007
Evening all!
I have just read the majority of this thread, my word there are some barking comments on here!

Fair play to Sir Ralph, bricking himself but managing to climb a classic for charity.

Who gives a monkey's if he sells himself? he has done a damn site more stuff than most people will ever do in their lives.

What about all these climbers who advertise their dvd's, books, have their own websites, do talks, appear on the telly doing shows, sponsors all over their kit, what are they doing? surely marketing themselves or is that different, and if so, why?

Anyway, good on him, maybe people should get off their arses and go do it themselves. I mean, all this gobbing off, I'm sure it would be an easy climb for some of our posters what with all their experience. But imagine not being able to do it, getting beat by a near OAP? what a terrible thing that would be!

My 2 penneth
Den
 francoisecall 18 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:

And yes, tomorrow I will be having a spiritual trip, but it's my trip and I don't expect you to understand it.
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:
> (In reply to francoisecall)
> Rubbish.........climbing is fun,a hobby, a day out with your mate,
Haven't you just answered for us?
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

I'll attempt to translate.

What you are saying is, that because of this charity ascent of the Eiger now all who attempt to climb the Eiger will have to pay to do that?

> It has happened to Everest, why should it not happen to the Eiger?

There are many peaks where you have to pay a peak fee. Permits fees are well established in India, Tibet, Nepal et al, from trekking peaks to the 8000m Himalayan giants. Nothing to do with charity ascents Al.....more to do with supply and demand.

Try again.....you can do better.

Mick
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to JoeL 90)
> [...]
>
> He hasn't got an argument yet and nor have you.

Hey you didn't give me chance, see above. And thats just one of many directions I could have taken.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to outdoorbloke: Id love to do the eiger NF but my funds fall a long way short of the asking price of Kenton and Ians services for 4 days and that of a helicopter lift off the top. in the meantime ill have to be content with going to the wall once a week outside twice two bike rides and 2 runs which gives me alot more pleasure than doing something im not ready to do.
shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
If you are going to quote me Al, then qoute it all.
You missed "lots of things"
 centurion05 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

people do different things for charity, do you honestly think the people who run a marathon for charity do it every day? If three people died on the great north run two years back, people can die running a marathon.

Different idea with the climb but possibly the same fatal outcome?

centurion05
 centurion05 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

if you get one thing out of this little pointless discussion it'll be a position in the top 40 posters this week.

centurion05
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Supply and demand? surely a chance to make money from a load of rich forigners coming over to get dragged up their mountains. Apologies to any climbing alpine style and still paying the fees this is aimed at those on guided trips with armies of porters etc. Supply doesn't really come into it.
 andy 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: "The Chamonix and Courmayeur guides or whatever and local council, have every right legally to insist on the conditions to be applied to an attempt on the Eiger North Face."

Have they moved the Eiger or am I missing something here?

And don't know about Courmayeur, but I'm pretty sure in France you can do what you like. Don't know about Switzerland though (which is where Grindelwald was last time I looked...)
 Denni 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

I can see where people are coming from, always look at both sides of the argument :0)

I think this feat, regardless of guides, helicopter etc is amazing and making money for charity to boot.

Managing to climb the Eiger at that age is pretty amazing stuff, thats my main point I think (sorry in hospital on drugs, which may affect my answers!)

Den
 Al Evans 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: .I will do better, sad that I need to, but its after 10 here, my bedtime, I'll talk to you in the morning, and you will not convince me it was a good idea, just like I will not convince you it was a bad one. I'm sorry, there are quite a substantial number of us on here, a large minority, who are appalled by what RF does.
I think therefore its worth asking the questions, non?
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:
> (In reply to francoisecall)
> Rubbish.........climbing is fun,a hobby, a day out with your mate, lots of things, but spiritual? You really are having a laugh and as for "violated by this kind of circus", you and Al are in your own little world on this one

You're doing the same absolutism as who you're attacking. Climbing is whatever any climber finds it to be. It's spiritual or utterly trivial, or anything else, depending on the climber. Who is anyone to tell another climber what climbing is or should be?

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to shaggyleo)
>
> And yes, tomorrow I will be having a spiritual trip, but it's my trip and I don't expect you to understand it.

Climbing is quite a spiritual trip for me, actually. My objection above was to the idea that it should be the same for everyone else.

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to outdoorbloke: Yep its certainly is amazing...
shaggyleo 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
Sorry,I was trying to get across that climbers climb for lots of reasons.I just know nobody that says climbing is a spiritual search.
Was I really attacking francoisecall?
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> Hey you didn't give me chance, see above.

Sure did. You said people will have to pay to climb the Eiger because of charity ascents and you cited the fact that you have to pay a permit to climb Himalayan peaks, the reasons for which are far removed from charity ascents and are more to do with developing countries capitalising on their natural resources which have a high demand from individuals in Western countries to have personal fun on.

> And thats just one of many directions I could have taken.

We are waiting.

Step up to the plate Al or STFU.

 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:
> (In reply to Steve Parker)
> Sorry,I was trying to get across that climbers climb for lots of reasons.I just know nobody that says climbing is a spiritual search.

Must be one of the most repeated ideas about climbing, surely? Loads of people, usually people who aren't conventionally religious.

> Was I really attacking francoisecall?

Sorry if I mistook you there. Wasn't having a go.

 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)

> I think therefore its worth asking the questions, non?

Trouble is Al, when questions are asked you come up with nothing, nada, zip.

All I see here is a load of bitterness. I can be persuaded either way. You need to think objectively rather than spraying a load of bullshit driven by your emotions and goodness knows what else.
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to centurion05:
> (In reply to Deejay)
>
> if you get one thing out of this little pointless discussion it'll be a position in the top 40 posters this week.
>
> centurion05


Err..Actually my original purpose was to inform those who were interested that there was a report on the news about Ranulph Fiennes' attempt on the Eiger. Since then it's degenerated into a ridiculous and shameful slagging off fest by SOME posters.

Let's be honest now, there are some registered posters who have done the Eiger or attempted it, and all credit and respect to them. But how many of the detractors of what Ranulph Fiennes has done realistically have a chance of doing the same, guided or not? I know I will never do anything remotely as gutsy in the mountaineering world, not as long as the hole in my arse points downwards, but I'm not ashamed to admit it.

Opinions and arseholes. Everyones got one and mostly they stink.

Once again, well done Ranulph, and well done Ian and Kenton.

DJ
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I have posted a fair amount of crap but i do believe that hard alpine routes will perhaps become an option for rich adventure seekers who dont want to take the time to learn how to do it proprerly since ranulph has publicised it. If it does occur it will mean that people with no talent for climbing will end up on serious routes endangering those around them. It is important that this is discouraged by condemming the style of ranulps 'climbing' of the Eigerwand (not the money it has created). But as i said before this phase if it ever happens will be short lived as the N faces of apline peaks are dangerous places ever more so with GW and sooner ore later one of these rich people will be killed similar perhaps to whympers party on the Matterhorn (the ending of that whole period of alpine peak bagging) and it will stop and once again be only for those with the neccasery skill to be there.
 Jamiemcp 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
Public schools have a wide variety of pupils and parents. In my experience of them I'd say only a very small minority of parents have inherited wealth. The vast majority of them work very very hard and make enormous sacrifices to send their kids there. I fail to see any argument why if you work hard and have had a bit of luck you shouldn't give your kids the best possible start. May be one day when you grow up and have kids of your own you will see this point of view. I'd be interested to know what experience of public school you have in order to make these remarks ?

How the hell can you compare pro cyclists to explorers/ climbers they are two totally different activities which have virtually nothing in common. You would train for them in totally different ways- do some research. Both are extremely arduous undertakings but can't be compared.

But both of these are topics for a different thread

I very rarely post or even look on UKC these days and threads like this are the reason why. A guy has managed to raise millions of pounds for charity shorly that is something to be celebrated ?? The whole character assignation leaves a really bad taste in my mouth.

I say good on him and I for one will be making a donation.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: To have an opinion do i have to apply to someone stating my climbing credentials and then it be judged whether im worthy or not?
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Deejay) To have an opinion do i have to apply to someone stating my climbing credentials and then it be judged whether im worthy or not?


No but apparently Ranulph Fiennes has to be made by the UKC mafia before he can do anything.

As for buying ascents of alpine summits how do you think the whole game started?

Get real, the man has never claimed to be an Alpinist just someone who wants to raise cash for a worthwhile cause. That's the real issue but apparently it upsets people.

DJ
 andy 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I have posted a fair amount of crap - yep.

> but i do believe that hard alpine routes will perhaps become an option for rich adventure seekers who dont want to take the time to learn how to do it proprerly - and there's another pile of poo. How d'you think guides make their money? By taking people who can afford it up routes they can't/don't want to do on their own.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Jamie McPherson: Yeah most of that Pro Cyclist vs ranulph was a bit of a larf, you obviously cant compare them in terms of feats but perhaps the amount of work put in is another issue and obvioulsy PCs put in more.

fee paying schools, my mum and dad dont agree with them and wouldn't have had the money to send me yet still offered it as a choice to me when i was going to secondary school, now i didn't like the fact that i had that choice but some of my mates didn't we all worked as hard as each other but because peoples parents have more money it shouldn't be that that entitles their child to better education. or the other way round, that because of lack of money they are deprived of a good education.

this is why the system is unfair and fee paying schools should be abolished.
 sutty 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

I have only dipped into this thread for a few quotes and it seems you are really really really thick, unsympathetic, and jealous of Ranulf Fiennes climbing the Eiger. It pains me to say it but so is Al Evans, Big Yin and any others that I have not had the misfortune to read their comments.

He did the climb to raise money, not to say he had climbed the Eiger. If any of you could have done it with Kenton and Ian, could you be sure you would raise over a million pounds for charity, remember, a famous name will drag in much more than you nonentities.

If you could not raise that money, better donate a million pounds to a charity to ask people NOT to do these things, though none of you are capable of organising a pissup in a brewery so there is little chance.

Either put up or shut up,
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I have posted a fair amount of crap

and continue to do so...but I will not hold that against you.

> but i do believe that hard alpine routes will perhaps become an option for rich adventure seekers who dont want to take the time to learn how to do it proprerly since ranulph has publicised it.

Oh really, it was Sir Ranulph Fiennes who started this trend? You need to read up on a bit of climbing history. I think you may find, as someone as posted above, that this is how 'alpinism' actually began.

What is wrong with guided ascents? Nothing as far as I can see.

Mick
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

To all who have posted on here expressing disapprobation (might be too big a word for you, so Google it)of RF's actions how many of you have summited or started out on the Nordwand? Not "thought about it" or "one day" but actually been on it.

DJ
 andy 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: >this is why the system is unfair and fee paying schools should be abolished.

no it's not - it's real life. people with more resources (be it money or talent or luck) will be able to do things others can't.

I'm hoping my kids will get into the local grammar schools - and I'll chuck whatever resources at it i can to give them the best chance of doing so (which probably includes paying over the odds to live here) - and they'll have a better chance of getting in because some kids from rich families will be going to other fee paying schools. Happy days...
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Jamie McPherson:
>
> I very rarely post or even look on UKC these days and threads like this are the reason why. A guy has managed to raise millions of pounds for charity shorly that is something to be celebrated ?? The whole character assignation leaves a really bad taste in my mouth.
>
> I say good on him and I for one will be making a donation.

I have no doubt that most people here agree with you, as I do. But I'd also say good on UKC for letting this thread develop, and showing the other side.

 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to sutty: yes your right i am really jealous i wish i was a 63 year old man who's lost his wife to cancer and his sister too. I also wish i had few fingers on my left hand. All this i would be willing to heap upon ignorant 16 yr old shoulders just to be dragged up the Nf onlyto be helied off.

no i dont really want any of this, i would like to one day climb the Nf its a lovely inspiring line and i wish to do it justice with and ascent of a style to match its beauty. I would also one day like to get a job and pay taxes that go to those that need help and hopefully contribute money to charity. None of our arguments are based on ourselves been better that ranulph at climbing and so im not quite sure where youve got the message im jealous of him. ive also always supported his contribution to charity
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> this is how 'alpinism' actually began.
>
That's definitely a point that needs making too. Whymper pulled something similar on the Matterhorn, really.
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

And lost some of his party into the bargain. Good job the cognoscenti of UKC didn't hear about that little escapade eh?

DJ
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Yeah my climbing histories a bit sketchy to non-existent most of its from this book that i got free with some film about alpinism. Yes fiennes did start the trend of rich people making big fusses about doing N routes in the alps. I think this may become a problem in the future. you dont, fair enough. Its good to voice such concers and hear people opinions.

i do apologise for you having to read through some of the nonsense ive posted.
guywillett 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I think the view that Ran's eiger climb is a dangerous precedent is wrong and paranoid. guides' bureaus do not have the power to say if a mountain/route must only be guided or not and local authorities appreciate that the majority of mountain tourism money does not come from guided ascents (nor does any money paid to guides go to local authorities)

Everest - this is a bad example. One can still attempt to climb everest very cheaply, say around 7-8000 dollars which is pretty cheap for an 8-10 week holiday. For this money, clearly, you get minimum logistical back up but isn't that what a 'real' climber want anyway? You chose your style and take responsibility for your choice. If the fact that 'non' climbers are 'dragged to the top' degrades your achievement as a real-climber, perhaps you are climbing it for the wrong reasons? Anyway, there are many other mountains to climb...

Lastly, if others attempt the eiger for charity after this precedent thats fine.These individuals must take responsibility for their own choices and actions, as we all do in life. We should remember the true eiger precedent was set by Harrer et al in 1938...does the responsibility of others'lives lost since fall on their shoulders? I think not.

happyposting!
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

You are either trolling or you really are numb. If you are trolling then you are a complete nob. If you're just naive then at the very least Google Edward Whymper.

DJ
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: 4th 'get real' of the day come on be more original. he can do what ever he wants officially hes now got my permission. but this doesn't mean i nor anyone else cant criticise him. Im just (as well as posting utter crap) raising a concen that he put other people in danger though his lack of skill going up the ENF and may encourage others with similarly little skill to do likewise. this would be dangerous.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
> (In reply to JoeL 90)
>
> You are either trolling or you really are numb. If you are trolling then you are a complete nob.

Or 16 years old. Can't expect him to know every bit of climbing history.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> Im just (as well as posting utter crap) raising a concen that he put other people in danger though his lack of skill

Can you think of anything else that might apply to? Blimey, climbing is a dangerous sport!
Deejay 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

You are Smart Guy aka Baluchi and I claim my £5.

DJ
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: indeed, its not part of my as course and i prefer actually climbing to reading about climbing history but if its dark, wet and cold as it is today and i have no work to do and its a sunday evening i though it would be an idea to express my naive concerns over the style of this ascent.
guywillett 18 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: i see there has been a few more posts while i wrote the last one! Certainly in the victorian times etc (whymper etal) guides were used on most major ascents and guiding is pretty much as old as the sport of alpinism.

I don't understand how people can get upset by people rich or otherwise being guided up things however hard. These clients make their choice of style and good for them. Those who want to climb any or all things unguided, good for them too!
 Michael Ryan 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

I hope you may have learnt something from this debate.....unlike Al Evans.
 Big Yin 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson: I dont think I am any more anonymous than you ,at least my profile shows where I live,who are you then ,you could be anyone ,put your name and address on if you dont want to be anonymous.
Most people on here dont use their real name for good reasons ,it doesnt make their opinions any less worthwhile.

I dont like media stunts of any kind ,media stunts in the mountains I like least of all ,especially irresponsible ones like this.
I also have an inbuilt dislike of those who seek glorification in this manner.

I also dont use guides and I strongly feel if you cant do a route yourself you shouldnt do it all.

It seems to me most people think this this was all a silly stunt .but because it was for charity it was ok,well the end doesnt justify the means.

Also the guides were paid to do it ,no doubt otherwise they would have told him to bugger off.

I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.

In my rescue team we had to disassociate ourselves from several people who did various fund raising activities for us ,but we have yet to see one penny.

So to summarise I dont really like any sort of media circus in the mountains and this was one of the silliest I have seen ,therefore I think the person who did it was a tosser.

That person who keeps being rude about me is just a bigger tosser who probably lives miles from any mountains.

Anyway off for a roll up.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Aye, thats what its all about. Such discussions are always great, i always learn alot about a sport i love very much mind you i need to my knowledge isn't right good.
 jl100 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: sorry, forgive me i dont really understand.
guywillett 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:
> (In reply to Paul Atkinson) I dont think I am any more anonymous than you ,at least my profile shows where I live,who are you then ,you could be anyone ,put your name and address on if you dont want to be anonymous.
> Most people on here dont use their real name for good reasons ,it doesnt make their opinions any less worthwhile.
>
> I dont like media stunts of any kind ,media stunts in the mountains I like least of all ,especially irresponsible ones like this. IHave to disagree with this! this was not irresponsible on any level.
> I also have an inbuilt dislike of those who seek glorification in this manner.
>
> I also dont use guides and I strongly feel if you cant do a route yourself you shouldnt do it all. I think this is narrowminded and elitist! But your choice for your climbing and so fine.
>
> It seems to me most people think this this was all a silly stunt .but because it was for charity it was ok,well the end doesnt justify the means. I don't really think any justification is needed anyway! Ran had trained hard for this and climbed (with a guide) quite a number of quite hard routes as preparation. Ethically not much different to following a mate up a route thats too hard for you...
>
> Also the guides were paid to do it ,no doubt otherwise they would have told him to bugger off. Absolutely, but remember people don't just do things for cash and fame! They might have looked forward to the challenge too!
>
> cheers
Guy (I should say I am a guide...)
guywillett 18 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: sorry seem to have mucked up the inserting text.. hope you'll take time to read it anyway!
 Big Yin 18 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: Aye I read it ,I dont think it is narrow minded and elitist to say that using guides is wrong and if you cant do a route yourself then you shouldnt do it.
For me there are some routes I would really like to do but are too hard for me,so I dont do them because if you use a guide then you arent doing the route yourself properly are you,the buzz for most comes from doing the leading or at least your share.
Using a guide ,you only cheat yourself.
Thats not why I object to this eiger carry on ,it was a whole different ball game,I dont like that sort of thing in the mountains,why didnt he climb the Eiffel Tower or such like and not demean the mountain and those who went before.

Cheers ,

Off for another roll up.
 Steve Parker 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:
>
> I also dont use guides and I strongly feel if you cant do a route yourself you shouldnt do it all.

Okay, that's your feeling. Does that mean everyone in the world should stop using mules, or porters, or telepheriques, or buses, or camels, or oxygen, or ropes, or or or what? Have you drawn some arbitrary point at which validity stops? Who says you've drawn it at the right place? Most people here seem to disagree, actually, and even more 'most people' in the wider world definitely disagree. Climbing is what it is, despite the many adolescent alarms about the future. Don't assume you've got some hotline into the essence of climbing. It's every one of us, and it always will be. Thankfully, we're all different, and we all do it for different reasons. Will people please stop with this alarmist crap about the 'death of climbing'!? If anyone wants to go and do a Toni Kurz, the mountain is still there. Ignore any fixed ropes, or cut them. The challenge is as achievable now as it ever was. Get a manila rope and some friends. When you get to the Hinterstoisser, cut the fixed rope. No worries. Most of all, stop doing this teeny-angst crap about climbing.
In reply to Big Yin:

I'd rather do a route without a guide because it doesn't feel like a proper achievement otherwise. In fact I'm very wary of climbing with men generally because some of them dominate the decision-making and take away my challenge. The ones I do choose to climb with are brilliant and have earned my respect.
But I don't go around saying all women should avoid climbing with dominating men, or that all less-confident climbers are wrong for climbing with people more experienced. People should do what fits in with their perception of the world.

Of course it's narrow minded and elitist to say that using guides is wrong when for some people it makes perfect sense. Why should everyone else have to do things your way, or mine?
 Big Yin 18 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell: Well even guides agree with me ,have you ever heard of a guide using a guide ?
some guides are much better climbers than others ,so why dont the less able ones use a guide for a route they could never do themselves because they know its bollocks,you have achieved nothing.

I think the vast majority of climbers dont use guides ,but anyway that was only a side issue the main was the media circus in the mountains ,tthats my point.

You should read Syd Scroggies book,now thats an inspiration.......
 AJM 18 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> because peoples parents have more money it shouldn't be that that entitles their child to better education. or the other way round, that because of lack of money they are deprived of a good education.

But hang on, at the start of your rant state schools were great and so there would be no need for public schools. Now without money you are deprived a "good education"...... make your mind up please.

And as someone above said, what about the parents. Do they not get a say?

If I were to earn enough money to send my child to a public school, and I wanted to do that, then to be honest who the f*ck are you to tell me I can't? I'll have paid my tax on it, hence paying towards a state school place which the kid wouldnt be using (hence increasing the average funding per state pupil), and whats left is mine to spend pretty much as I choose. If I wanted to leave it all in a trust fund for my children then I could do that, or I could spend it on sending them to public school, or I could spend it all on alcohol and die a penniless alcoholic, or blow the whole lot on a round the world holiday when I'm 75. My money, my choice, as long as its spent in some legal way. And I just can't see any rational justification for making the idea of doing whatever you think is the best thing to give your child a good start in life illegal.

As for the rest of the thread, I'm saddened and sickened at the amount of bile, bitterness and pure green-eyed jealousy that some people have come out with.

  • Going to Eton does not necessarily make you rich
  • Having a fancy name does not necessarily make you rich
  • From what I remember of his book, he lived an absolute paupers life whilst planning some of the arctic expeditions, so I don't think he was exactly the landed gentry class at that point.
  • Anyone who thinks that "anyone" could do many of the things he has done is simply deluding themselves. SAS selection, and dragging a sled to the poles, and all that stuff, you really think that the average man in the street could do all of that?
  • So he self-publicises. So what? It might just be what he is good at. And if it is, then he has earnt a hell of a lot of money for charities over the years putting that talent to good use. If he was simply using that talent as a second-rate celebrity, and pocketing all the money, would that make him a better person somehow? He has combined a talent for publicity with being a driven sufferer, but has done so in a way which has generated a lot of money for a number of decent causes. How many people here can say the same, that they have done what they are good at in life, but done it to raise god knows how many millions for charity? I certainly can't. Let he who is without sin, and all that.......


AJM
In reply to Big Yin:
> Well even guides agree with me ,have you ever heard of a guide using a guide ?

Have you ever heard a guide saying people who use guides are wrong to do so?
 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:
> In fact I'm very wary of climbing with men generally because some of them dominate the decision-making and take away my challenge. The ones I do choose to climb with are brilliant and have earned my respect.

Interesting, that bit. I've been involved (as an instructor) on a few womens' climbing courses. Very different skills involved from those required to teach men.
Knitting Norah 19 Mar 2007
I could write several things on this thread but the most important one is that my youngest son and I would not be here at all but for people like Sir Ran. It is as simple as that!
My existance for the last thirty one years and that of my son is totally as a result of the people who raised the money to fund the research and develop the expertise to treat and operate on the various types of cancer that many people get.
To be introduced to the antenatal team at the clinic as "My miracle lady" by the consultant is a very sobering experience. To be pregnant and succeed in carrying your baby full term when you have had a cancer removed and shouldn't still be around, let alone succeed in conceiving in the first place is an amazing experience. Then to be presented with your son who you knew throughout your pregnancy that you were more likely to lose than carry is indeed a miracle.
I will be eternally grateful to those who raised that funding.
Some mornings I waken up and am completely debilitated by vertigo until I take my tablets for several days until it settles. To think of being on a sheer wall on a mountain with or without a rope and simply looking down and ending up how I feel at those times doesn't bear thinking about.
Well done Sir Ran and the guides and the team who supported you I for one know what it is like to depend on people like you. Thank you.
 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> What is wrong with guided ascents? Nothing as far as I can see.

There is nothing wrong at all, Mick. Nor is there anything wrong with a guiding firm part-owning/ sponsoring a widely used climbing forum.

However, it does devalue mountaineering (climbing, generally perhaps) if guided ascents are viewed as an equivalent achievement to doing without. It is hard to stop the mass-media doing this, but climbers should take every opportunity to highlight the difference.

I now spend most of my time in a wealthy country with no tradition of climbing. I have come across people getting into climbing who have no comprehension that big mountains can be tackled unguided or that real objectives exist beyond the Seven Summits; one guy with the requisite funds has even already 'done' Kili and Elbrus, despite admitting he didn't really enjoy it. Meanwhile we have media calls for certification for anyone wanting to venture into the local hills, usually augmented by a quote from the local celebrity who's 'done' Everest (he's now off to the poles, surprise, surprise). Extrapolate this into the future and there's real danger that far more of what we regard as our territory becomes annexed by bogus paying adventurers and perhaps effectively closed to us.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to JoeL 90)
>
> I hope you may have learnt something from this debate.....unlike Al Evans.
Mick, how do you know I have not learnt anything from this debate?
I have learnt several things, the main one being that you can't justifiably crtiticise a stunt wrapped up as an act of charity, and that a good publicist will always beat an average critic. That the normal conventions of mountaineering which we all normally accept can be overturned on any mountain, not just Everest, if you attach the label charity to them. That its seen as ok to make a more than comfortable living out of 'working' for charity.

 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: First of all bravo! im amazed you just read through all of the complete nonsense on this thread.

I personally think that from what ive read on here and other information that private schools probably are a better source of education that state schools, however this is often overcome becasue while public school boys are sitting in each other dorms mocking the plebs, many people in state schools will be more intrested in either learning or having a good time but not by discriminating others. However the situation must be viewed that as private schools over better education generally it is unfair that through the parents wealth one child can a have a better education than another. The right to the best education is a basic right. now obviously unequality in state schools must be looked at, but the aboloition of private scools would be a major step.

I cant tell you yet not do do it although maybe your bank manager will, but in future i hope it isn't an option

in reply to the other stuff why dont you read through it agaim maybe youll find your answer maybe not.
 John2 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk: 'it does devalue mountaineering (climbing, generally perhaps) if guided ascents are viewed as an equivalent achievement to doing without'

Did Fiennes claim that his ascent was an equivalent achievement to a guideless one? Personally I think that raising £2.5 million or whatever it was for a worthwhile charity is a greater achievement than an unguided ascent of an Alpine route that has already been climbed many times.
guy the willett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell: This is guy willett on another computer! I agree guides generally think using guides is fine - its all about your chosen style etc...

I am a guide and sometimes use other guides, especially for skiing in new places to make the most of the snow etc. Likewise, most of my climbing partners are guides, and sometimes I will climb routes which if it me and me would be too hard, but with a mate who's a guide and better climber it becomes possible for both of us. Why would this better mate chose to climb with me? Friendship, trust, enjoyment and sometimes that symbiotic relationship where we both climb harder as a ropeteam than the individual than the sum of our abilities...

 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to John2:

> Did Fiennes claim that his ascent was an equivalent achievement to a guideless one?

Presumably not. My point is the need for people in this thread to laud his ascent so much. Why? There are loads of active climbers of Sir Ran T-W-F's age. Jim Donini is - I think - well into his sixties and is still new routing in Patagonia, for instance.

> Personally I think that raising £2.5 million or whatever it was for a worthwhile charity is a greater achievement than an unguided ascent of an Alpine route that has already been climbed many times.

Charity is an emotive topic. I said higher in the thread that I am jaded by people wanting charity sponsorship to something that appears fun or stimulating for them. Maybe I am too cynical, but it just seems a cake-and-eat-it excuse for people's self-indulgences. A real hero is someone like Margaret Hassan, devoted her adult life in Iraq to Care International, seemingly with no self-interest of any kind, either for publicity or - tragically - personal safety.

 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:
>My point is the need for people in this thread to laud his ascent so much. Why?

Because it's high profile. Because it involves a celebrity. You can't miss it on the news, so you comment on it. You're almost forced into having an opinion just because of the exposure. Inevitably people come down on one side or the other. I don't think anyone has lauded it as an Alpine ascent inordinately, but a bit of applause doesn't seem inappropriate.

If you did some route for charity somewhere, and it was reported on the national news, we'd all be commenting on that too.
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to anyone:

Can anyone tell me where I can get a 'Fiennes is a Git' t-shirt?

I mean what a tw*t raising all this money for charity whilst risking his arse on the Eigerwand. I suppose he could have spent the last week sat on his arse pontificating on threads like this.........

Good on him, I don't care if he bared his arse in Piccadilly Circus to raise money for charity. If he people think this devalues climbing or the mountains then get a life and don't be so anal, we don't own the mountains or have the right to decide what people should do on them.
 John2 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk: I don't disagree with you about Margaret Hassan, but the organisation that she worked for required funding. Charities are not unlike businesses in that they need a stream of income, and that income is generally brought in by salesmen in the cases of businesses and by publicists in the case of charities.

I pointedly refuse to contribute to office workers who have been offered a free trip up Kilimanjaro if they succeeed in raising £x worth of charity sponsorship, but I think that Fiennes is operating on a rather larger scale than those people. I assume that he is financially self sufficient and has decided that raising money for charity is a more worthwhile use of his spare time than e.g. making ethically flawless ascents of mountains to the benefit of nobody else.

Who the hell cares what the general public think of climbers? At least 'What did you think of that Fiennes bloke on the Eiger?' makes a change from 'Have you seen that French bird who free climbs without ropes?'.
In reply to Steve Parker:

>
> Interesting, that bit. I've been involved (as an instructor) on a few womens' climbing courses. Very different skills involved from those required to teach men.

I think so too; although one has to be careful about generalising as there will always be people who are different.
One of the climbing instructing concepts that I think works less well for many women, and perhaps some men is this idea about pushing people beyond their comfort zone. I think for some people, feeling scared and out of control is negative and terminally off-putting.
Placing that in the context of the current thread I find it quite surprising that someone like Fiennes; who you would expect to be a control freak, would volunteer to put themself in a dependency situation. But just because I can't get my head around it, doesn't make it bad.
 Rob Naylor 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:
> (In reply to John2)
>
> [...]
>
> Presumably not. My point is the need for people in this thread to laud his ascent so much. Why? There are loads of active climbers of Sir Ran T-W-F's age. Jim Donini is - I think - well into his sixties and is still new routing in Patagonia, for instance.

There's not that much "lauding", over and above "well done". A lot of the comments here are more *against* the personal attacks, jealous bile and unwarranted assumptions that people like Al and JoeL90 are coming out with. they're not making reasoned arguments, just displaying a kind of personal nastiness that many people posting here seem to find distasteful.
> [...]
>
> Charity is an emotive topic. I said higher in the thread that I am jaded by people wanting charity sponsorship to something that appears fun or stimulating for them. Maybe I am too cynical, but it just seems a cake-and-eat-it excuse for people's self-indulgences.

Again, I'll be the first to say that just because something's for charity doesn't make it right (people who've been here a while know my views on 3-Peakers, for example. Sponsored Chav cull anyone? It's OK, it's for charidee!).

But again, rather than concentrating on the arguments against inappropriate charity events in general, most of the comment From certain individuals has been of the "I hate rich tossers" and "hundreds of millions of people could pull a 400lb sled for 100 days across the antarctic if they were rich enough and had the time" variety...sheer personal bile against an individual and his perceived "advantages" in life rather than reasoned argument.

That's been my main reason for posting stuff here...disquiet at the sheer apparently envious nastiness from some quarters.
 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> I don't think anyone has lauded it as an Alpine ascent inordinately, but a bit of applause doesn't seem inappropriate.

OK. I certainly applaud Kenton ...
 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:
> That's been my main reason for posting stuff here...disquiet at the sheer apparently envious nastiness from some quarters.

Agreed. I have nothing against Sir Ran as such.

 TobyA 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:
> and "hundreds of millions of people could pull a 400lb sled for 100 days across the antarctic if they were rich enough and had the time" variety...

Purely on a statistical level do you think on a global scale we could actually find 100 million who could? I think we probably could. But like surviving a famine, you would probably have to make it obligatory in someway - "haul that sledge or I'll shoot your children" type of thing. Therefore constructing a study that fits into the current ethical guidelines for medical or social science studies might be a bit tricky.

My republican radar started whirring at the "Congratulations to Sir Ran..." title to the News item, it felt rather forelock tugging, but beyond that a fine effort on an obviously hard and serious route.

...I'm not sure how it relates to "Sir Ran" but somehow with this thread I feel I should state for the record that I'm anti-private school as well.

 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to TobyA:
> I feel I should state for the record that I'm anti-private school as well.

A pretty safe position to maintain in Helsinki, I'd guess?

 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor: Rob, I'm certainly not envious of Ran, and I think as a climber I have every right to criticise the use of a climb that was a major landmark in Alpine history for a 'stunt' to raise money for charity.

As to my personal criticism of Ran, its just that, personal and I have no argument with anybody that disagrees with it. Unsuprisingly (considering his ability with his publicity) that doesn't seem to work the other way.
I have recieved personal criticism on this thread, most of which has little to do with the point, and few of the people making it have considered the possible implications which I have pointed out.
 Marc C 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I'M envious of Ran - I'd love to have done what he did! However, my envy doesn't stop me admiring him and congratulating him on a great achievement.

PS often feeling envious is an indicator of what we would love to do - and, therefore, a motivation to go and do it!
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor) Rob, I'm certainly not envious of Ran, and I think as a climber I have every right to criticise the use of a climb that was a major landmark in Alpine history for a 'stunt' to raise money for charity.

Why, what harm has been done by him climbing this route?

Who are you or anyone else to decide what is an acceptable reason to climb this route?!

No doubt many ascents on this wall are more ego-driven than Fiennes ascent.
 John2 19 Mar 2007
In reply to TobyA: 'I should state for the record that I'm anti-private school as well'

You know what, Toby? I reckon the helicopter was owned by one of his stinking rich schoolfriends from Eton who was helping him out. It's bloody disgraceful. The rest of us have to walk down. Property is theft. Viva la revolucion. No pasaran. You couldn't lend me a fiver till my postal order comes through, could you?
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to John2: appreciate the tongue in cheek.... but just to clarify: the bloke who paid for the chopper is a self made comprehensive educated salt of the earth dude...
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> Why, what harm has been done by him climbing this route?I'll deal with this at the end of this post
>
> Who are you or anyone else to decide what is an acceptable reason to climb this route?!
Nobody, I'm just a climber that loves our sport
>
> No doubt many ascents on this wall are more ego-driven than Fiennes ascent.
I doubt it

Ok, whats wrong with this ascent(stunt), Well look at the state of Everest, I would like to confine this sort of thing, and the fact that you can only climb Everest if you are very rich just to Everest.
This takes it out of that realm and puts the Alpine classics firmly in the frame, dont think that if stunts like this are noticed by the various councils involved they will be reluctant to put 'Route fees' on certain routes. They will no doubt justify this by rescue costs etc, BUT IT WILL HAPPEN.
This is a seriously bad thing in Alpine mountaineering, you dont seriously think that other 'adventurous charity workers' are not lining up in glee to follow Ran's lead and have a jolly in the Alps on the back of a charity.
All of which can only be bad for the sport of alpinism, nay, a disaster, the very threat of it means it should never have taken place.


 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Big Yin:

> It seems to me most people think this this was all a silly stunt .but because it was for charity it was ok,well the end doesnt justify the means.
I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.
>
> In my rescue team we had to disassociate ourselves from several people who did various fund raising activities for us ,but we have yet to see one penny.

Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.
rich 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.

i imagine if you can be bothered it'd be fairly easy to find out
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:


Everest is the way it is precisely because of what it is, the highest mountain on the planet. I doubt you are going to get queues of punters on this or the other alpine north faces as they simply don’t have the same resonance with the general public. I go down the pub with my non-climbing mates and say I’ve climbed the Eigerwand, I’ll get a few blank looks or at best a 'well done', I say I have climbed Everest and I’ll be a hero for a night!

The idea that this ascent might be a disaster for alpinism is ludicrous.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: By the way before you all go berserk that is not aimed directly at Ran, rather at the people who sponsered him and may never come up with the money.
 John2 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: 'I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves'

Given that the Marie Curie web site invites people to donate directly to the charity, I think it's more than probably that Fiennes himself is receiving no money whatsoever from his activities.
johnj 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: yes you're right ran the man thought my my i'm getting old what i'll do is con all these people into getting me on a free jolly up the eiger, it doesn't matter, if we don't really raise any money, and after me they put a via ferrata route up, where punters can pay and die to their hearts content

maybe you should take a leaf out of his book and do something amazing instead of typing this endless nonsense which you seem to think has a point, to maybe inspire folk like me, who spend far too much time in front of a pc trying to make a living
 Tyler 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Have you ever worked on any outside broadcasts about climbing?
 Michael Ryan 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

More photos of Sir Ranulph Fiennes on the Eiger at his blog at myspace.com

http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.ListAll&friendID=1494...
 skeev 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.
> [...]


Al, I'm gonna attempt to run the New Forest Marathon in September. Will you sponsor me? All money raised will go to the Alzheimer's Society.

Thanks, Steve
In reply to Tyler:
>
> Have you ever worked on any outside broadcasts about climbing?

I went to a fascinating lecture and film show recently. Apparently on the 1933 Everest expedition they did a "live broadcast" from the highest camp to London using a combination of wire and radio links. To do that they carried thousands of feet of cable up the mountain. I thought that was amazing.
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:

My climbing partner was a coward today so I am sitting in front of my computer instead of being out there.

So that is exactly the situation where I should call a guide. Not because I can't lead the route, but because I have nobody to go climbing with. And if I can't find anybody free in Cham this week, I will have to decide whether I spend more time on UKC or get out! And soloing is not an option for me on a glacier! Yet, I am hesitating to call a guide because there is always one aspect missing when you climb with a guide: it's the lack of mutual desire (to climb in each other's company, that is, I could not find another word)

Re the women thing: it is still possible to find non domineering men. I climb with lots of men and I would say half are the dominant kind and half are working on an equality basis. But I would not be surprised if it were the same amongst women. Why don't you want to climb with me? Am I too domineering?
 andy 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell: ...and look what's happened to everest now - Al's right!!!
In reply to francoisecall:

> So that is exactly the situation where I should call a guide. Not because I can't lead the route, but because I have nobody to go climbing with.

I think that's a perfectly valid reason to hire a guide.


> Re the women thing: it is still possible to find non domineering men.

Yes I agree. I have several male friends who I climb with precisely because they are not domineering. That's what I was trying to say but on rereading it I can see that I expressed it ambiguously.

> Why don't you want to climb with me? Am I too domineering?

Lol! I'd love to climb with you but you are a much better climber than me, and I don't like climbing too far out of my comfort zone, so you'd have to drop a few grades on my account.
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to andy:
> (In reply to Alison Stockwell) ...and look what's happened to everest now - Al's right!!!



By that reasoning non-climbers should be getting dragged left, right and centre up the Cromlech because Ron Fawcett was filmed doing the first acsent of Lord of the Flies in 1979.
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:

It's a deal. At Easter we will do something together and you will choose.
In reply to francoisecall:

Woohoo! Thanks Francoise. I'd better start studying the guidebook....
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

I know this is somewhat off the subject of the thread but I am interested in the differences you noticed coaching men and women.

Although I am woman myself, I don't have much experience climbing with women. I had once a female climbing partner who behaved with me as she did with her domineering male partners: she refused to lead even though she was techically a much better rockclimber than me, I had to make all the decisions, etc...I don't know if it was intrinsic in her character or if she had been brainwashed by her previous climbing partners. I don't climb anymore with her because this situation irritated me.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to John2:
> (In reply to Al Evans) 'I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves'
>
> Given that the Marie Curie web site invites people to donate directly to the charity, I think it's more than probably that Fiennes himself is receiving no money whatsoever from his activities.

John, I never said he was, that was not the implication of the post.
In reply to Al Evans:

The implication of these innumerate bitching posts is that you need a hobby. Step away from the keyboard.

Davie
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> Have you ever worked on any outside broadcasts about climbing?

Filmed Ron live soloing Darius for a programme on risk, also filmed him on the first ascent of Sardine and made a video called Body Machine.
I also filmed a documentary of an attempt on the West Ridge of Everest by the joint forces in 1988.
All done with no fuss by real climbers.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to andy: The constant Everest comparison is flawed! You do NOT have to be rich to climb everest! However, if you want guides, oxygen, fixed rope,sherpas, potential rescue, bacon butties at besecamp et etc you do need to pay a shed load!
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: That was me who said something along these lines. I have been involved in a number of government organisations which part fund charities and since then have a lot of doubts about the legislation. I don't say that such and such charity (including RF Eiger stunt) is a dishonest activity raising money for the founders. I am just saying that knowing some of the practicalities, I will always be a little suspicious until proven contrary.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to skeev:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
>
> Al, I'm gonna attempt to run the New Forest Marathon in September. Will you sponsor me? All money raised will go to the Alzheimer's Society.
>
> Thanks, Steve

I will, send me details.

 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to andy: Embsay, do you know the Fawcetts?
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to I am the God of Strathyre: My hobby is climbing and other things to do with outdoors, usually I post in the mornings and at night, at the moment my back just hurts too much! I'll probably spend an hour or two down at the local nature sanctury bird watching.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:
> (In reply to francoisecall)

> Lol! I'd love to climb with you but you are a much better climber than me, and I don't like climbing too far out of my comfort zone, so you'd have to drop a few grades on my account.

Alison. I've watched you climbing, leading big trad rock routes in the Costa, and I've climbed a fair bit with Francoise, I think you are very similar on rock, you might even have the edge, of course Francoise has it on ice.In fact I suspect she's better than me on ice and mixed ground
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett:
> (In reply to andy) The constant Everest comparison is flawed! You do NOT have to be rich to climb everest! However, if you want guides, oxygen, fixed rope,sherpas, potential rescue, bacon butties at besecamp et etc you do need to pay a shed load!

Sorry guy, you do have to be rich, forget everything else the peak fees alone ensure that.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: And thats what worries me about the Alps big routes.
johnj 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: what is?
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to johnj:
> (In reply to Al Evans) what is?

That if stunts like this go ahead 'Route' fees will be imposed.
johnj 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: behave
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: also, another point. the world changes over time, and so doesmountaineering. Climbs that were cutting edge at the time (everest) are no longer significant challenges in the mountaineering world and are doable by many people (and still remain a significant personal challenge). As time progresses and general mountaineering ability progresses, the goals and aspirations of active climbers will change too! The 38 route on the eiger will always be a significant personal challenge (as is everest) but is no longer cutting edge. There are many quality equally hard and harder Nface routes in the Alps, that most have never heard of....

Also, do you really think guides want the eiger to be 'guided only'? Most guides wouldn't want to guide it on a regular basis if ever and besides, most guides are 'real' climbers who would not want things to go that way anyway!

 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: In Courmayeur, there is poster at the start of an horspiste ski leading to Val Veni which says that only guided parties are allowed!!! I am not sure how it is implemented. Do they have carabinieri checking that there is a guide in your party?
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: not true - go to tibet
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to johnj)
> [...]
>
> That if stunts like this go ahead 'Route' fees will be imposed.

FFS man get a grip!
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: not sure...Aosta is a funny place! Suspect it is just scare tactics!
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett:
> (In reply to Al Evans) not true - go to tibet

I have, even there, there are Peak fees, and it is mandatory that you have a liasion officer that you have to pay for. It wont be long before the peak fees are compatible with Nepal.
 tony 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> I also filmed a documentary of an attempt on the West Ridge of Everest by the joint forces in 1988.
> All done with no fuss by real climbers.

I would have thought that making a documentary was making a fuss. After all, what's the point of making the documentary if no-one's going to watch it? And presumably the organisers of the climb needed the documentary to help with the funding of the expedition? Or, since it was a military trip, was a nice wee jolly funded by the tax-payer? Nice work if you can get it.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> FFS man get a grip!

Very profound, thought out and intelligent answer (not).
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

I guess I could have followed your lead on this thread which is full of profound, thought out and intelligent posts or did I mix those 3 with irrational, bitter and twisted?
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: That is a long way down the line and will be opposed by many many people. It wouldnot be considered unless loads offolk start climbing it (v unlikely) and would never work!
There would be multi day illegal ascents/protests and allsorts on the face! I for one would be there (if it was sunny)

For example. The chamonix mairie said that helicopter rescue in the mont blanc massif would be charged to those who were rescued. In reality the PGHM hardly ever charge anyone anything!
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tony: Tony, unlike the more recent services expedition there was none of the razamataz, all the participants were vetted and were real accomplished climbers and the expedition was done in the lieu of other training.
The 6 part docu was shown without any bullshit on ITV, hardly comparable with this stunt. And yes, some of the guys very quietly arranged their own contributions to charity.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: I agree, but 7-8000 dollars for an 8-10 week holiday is still pretty good value!!
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> I guess I could have followed your lead on this thread which is full of profound, thought out and intelligent posts or did I mix those 3 with irrational, bitter and twisted?

Gimee an irrational, bitter and twisted moment please?
 Paul Atkinson 19 Mar 2007
while we're at it, let's not forget:

www.mariecurie.org.uk

www.bhf.org.uk/research_health_professionals/research_successes.aspx

OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett:

'That is a long way down the line'



and the idea that the likes of Fiennes climbing this route will lead to it is complete crap. If route fees are going to be introduced (and I don't believe they would be) they would be on the trade routes on the likes of MB and the Matterhorn. If anyone sincerely believes that the likes of Fiennes ascent significanly ifluences the numbers on these routes then can I please have some of what they are smoking.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous: I agree! The revenue potentially created with a peak fee on mont blanc is huge! never gonna happen...also Denali there is a modest peak fee ($150 i think), nooneminds cos its spent on environmentalclean up and rescues
 martin mandel 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: the people who sponsored mr fiennes are probably punters like all of us. how can you doubt their capacity to fulfill their sponsorship obligations? you then introduce this element of doubt to somehow justify your argument. keep digging your hole.
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Anonymous)
> [...]
>
> Gimee an irrational, bitter and twisted moment please?


You have used language such as being 'appalled' by his actions and finding them 'repugnant'. Pretty heavy for a man who's only crime was to climb the Eigerwand and raise a few million for charity.

 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous: But hardly irrational,bitter and twisted
Deejay 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

So supporting a regime that is systematically trying to eradicate Tibetan culture by paying peak fees is ok? Not a bit of egocentricity there is there? After all the routes from the Tibetan side have more to offer....blah...blah...

You see Al, my citicism of your ventures is unfair too. RF made some cash for a worthwhile cause. The majority of the finance for the event came from a private source and one way or another will benefit many people.

The publicity is all part of the deal. I remember, as a kid, Sir Christian Bonnington, being on the telly talking about an Everest attempt. Was CB's use of the media machine unbearable too. No, I personally don't think so.

What about Alan Hinkes? Some of his publicity was through Trail Magazine! And he's on the cover again this month! Surely that means his attempts were not "real" mountaineering? Bollocks.

Agreed, for the mountaineering community style and discretion about ones achievements may be important, but for a guy raising a lot of cash in a way which, guided or not, is ballsy, what pretentious drivel.

DJ
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: Well there were some serious talks about somehow regulating the access to Mont Blanc. I don't know if you are involved in local organisations in the Chamonix Valley but the subject is still being discussed very seriously. I have been involved in cleaning up actions with the CAF and just that would justify some fees!
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: yup sure would! a small peak fee probably people wont mind, but would be v hard to police! Its hard enough policing illegal guiding !!!
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: off for a quick 'skin' will rejoin debate later!
 francoisecall 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: Illegal guiding is one thing that does not bother me at all. As long as the client knows that his guide does not have the official diplomas and he is happy about it. So what? It's a private deal between them.
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Anonymous) But hardly irrational,bitter and twisted

I would call claiming someones actions to be repugnant when all they have done is climb a bloody mountain and raise some money as pretty irrational, bitter and twisted.
 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
I've just been on the phone to Marie Curie, and they told me the following:

100% of all donations goes to the charity.
Marie Curie did not fund the climb in any way.
Ranulph Fiennes received no payment from anybody for the climb.
The climb was funded by the following sponsors:

HIGHSTONE Group Ltd
Motorola
Mountain Equipment
Swiss International Airlines
Switzerland Tourism
Europcar
Air Glaciers
Grand Hotel Regina Grindelwald
Jungfrau Railways
The Met Office (UK)
Meteotest
Grindelwald Tourismus

The first sponsor in the list, the Highstone Group, is owned by Paul Sykes, who is the primary sponsor, and who has sponsored Fiennes previously.

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/richlist/person/0,,37829,00.html

With regard to some of the nasty, uninformed suggestions above that Fiennes might be profiting from the donations, I think some people owe him a public apology on this thread.

OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to guywillett) Well there were some serious talks about somehow regulating the access to Mont Blanc. I don't know if you are involved in local organisations in the Chamonix Valley but the subject is still being discussed very seriously. I have been involved in cleaning up actions with the CAF and just that would justify some fees!


And why is this? Because Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the alps and hordes of climbers are attracted to it, no matter what the likes of Fiennes do.
Deejay 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

Good work Steve. Funny how none of the gainsayers could be bothered doing a bit of research.

Once again well done Sir Ranulph, Ian and Kenton.

DJ
In reply to francoisecall:

I find this issue about illegal guiding very odd. What criteria do they use to determine whether or not it's a case of guiding? If I do a route in Chamonix with a more experienced friend (or one perceived by the powers to be more experienced) how do they know if any money was exchanged or what it was for? I'd much rather climb with someone I know, like and trust than a stranger; guide or not.

I heard a story about an incident where the "guide" was helicoptered away and the "client" instructed to wait until an official guide arrived. If that happened to me I'd be furious. Actually I have a full-on rant all prepared in case of this eventuality, so if it happens to us they will have a shock
johnj 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: hi Steve, thanks for that, from what i see, as an infequent poster, there is a lot of rubbish posted (much of it by people who really should know better), yes there is debate, but sniping and name calling is school playground stuff and posters in postions such as yours who have a esablished profile, really should set some standards on here. Good Job
 martin mandel 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: and so mr evans and the other doubters, please enlighten us all. which of the above listed sponsors will be the first to fail to carry out their promise of, or commitment to, sponsoring the eiger climb.
 tony 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> The 6 part docu was shown without any bullshit on ITV, hardly comparable with this stunt.

So, it was shown on TV. That sounds quite a big deal in terms of the exposure the trip was given.
 David Hooper 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: Scanning briefly through this thread it seems as if the question "What is an appropriate and suitable reason to climb the Eiger" being asked. Doing for charity and/or self agrandisement is apparently not appropriate.

As I recall - the first ascent was a race betreen German and Italian fascist teams trying to trump each other and shower glory onto either Adolf or Benito's regimes.

Maybe Sir Rans ascent has been done for more appropritae reasons after all?
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> So supporting a regime that is systematically trying to eradicate Tibetan culture by paying peak fees is ok? Not a bit of egocentricity there is there?

This has to be the most stupid and irrelevant and misinformed post yet,
It was Mr Willet who suggested going from Tibet instead of Nepal, not me. At great deliberation and negotiation we insisted on Sherpas, not Chinese, we were forced to take one Chinese in addition to the Liasion Officer and he was useless. Never went higher than one trip to advance base.
We supported the Tibetans by trading with them and using their yaks and arranging for regular deliveries of potatoes.
The Dalai Llama sent his personal best wishes and the Monks at the Rongbuck Monastry visited us regularly and performed 'puja' for us much to the disgust of our chinese liasion officer. Hiding your head in the sand is not going to help Tibet. International expeditions are the best way the rest of the world can monitor Chinese atrocities in Tibet.
I could go on at length, but its so off thread I won't.
 andy 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: I was being ironic, guy - I hardly think that a wireless broadcast in 1953 was the reason why everest is over-commercialised now, just as I don;t think that this will lead to coachloads of numpties gearing up at the bottom of the Eiger.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tony: Dont be stupid, your point is so pathetic its annoying me now.
 AJM 19 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

> while public school boys are sitting in each other dorms mocking the plebs, many people in state schools will be more intrested in either learning or having a good time but not by discriminating others.

Am I right in guessing you don't know many people from public or private schools? I've spent a lot of time in places and around people which you would probably consider to be "priviledged", and I have never yet seen any one single person who displays the attitudes you are suggesting they have. I have known one or two people who went to Eton and similar, and most of the time they just come across as intelligent, friendly people. In fact, I had to be told that all of them went there, because I wouldn't have guessed otherwise. I would put a large amount of money on the fact that, based upon a ten-minute conversation with random people (which didn't focus on school as its topic), you would fail miserably to work out who went to a state school, a private school and a public school. I'd guess that you probably couldn't get much higher than the statistical average score.

This will undoubtedly sound patronising, but I hope that if and when you go to university, or end up in another situation where you see and interact with a great mix of people from all across the social spectrum, that you might realise that there are tw*ts everywhere in the world, and that there isn't a clear dividing line between "nice guy" and "tosser" which you can draw simply based on where you went to school.

> However the situation must be viewed that as private schools over better education generally it is unfair that through the parents wealth one child can a have a better education than another. The right to the best education is a basic right. now obviously unequality in state schools must be looked at, but the aboloition of private scools would be a major step.

Bullshit. According to all the general declarations of human rights and so on, everyone has a right to basic education. Claiming that everyone has a right to go to somewhere like Harvard, the Sorbonne, Oxbridge etc for a degree is frankly absurd.............

I need to get back to work now,

AJM
 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
For anyone who can't be bothered to read all through this huge thread, I think this post from Ian Parnell (one of Ranulph Fiennes's guides) is worth pasting here to give a bit of informed perspective:

Morning Al, bit early for ranting isn't it. Expected this kind of discussion as its always raised when "outsiders" get involved in climbing with the media. So my pennyworth having spent a fair amount of time with Ran. You are right Ran is very good at publicity, and yes he will do lots of lectures on the back of this, there will probably be a book too. If that bothers you then fine, but throughout this climb Ran has been very humble about his climbing skills and has never claimed much special about himself. In my view however he is an exceptional guy with a tremendous ability to keep battling away and push himself through an adventure that was a long way from his natural terrain. Both Kenton and I were inspired to climb with him.

2 other points if you think the charity aspect was just a byproduct of his publicity ventures then you are way off the mark. Ran's wife Ginny, his mother and his sister all died of Cancer. I've a friend who is dying of cancer too its something that leaves a massive impact on you, the sort of thing you don't fake, the sort of thing you want to do something about. Ran is doing something about it - his everest trip raised well over 2 million quid for the British Heart Foundation, it wouldn't surprise me if he did the same again for Marie Curie this time.

Final point is the question about did he do it free? The poster obviously hasn't been on the route. Almost no one does it free, Ueli Steck an his recent speed ascent, and i suspect every other party that climbed it this week, including Kenton and myself all used the fixed gear to pull on on the hardest pitches.
 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
And this one from John Yates:

I have played a very small part in Ran's Eiger Challenge and the man I have grown to know and respect is nothing like the figure Al alludes to. The publicity, which Ran is very good at, has all been to raise money for Marie Curie's new terminal care projects in Leeds, Lincoln and the North East. The financial support came from Yorkshireman Paul Sykes who funded Kenton and Ian and the helicopters and various other bits of the logistics...the result of which is that, over the last few days, Ran has raised over £1.5 million for Marie Curie. His attempt on Everest last year raised more than £2.5 million for the British Heart Foundation - who opened a new childrens unit in London a few weeks back. Ran is very unassuming and self-deprecating. He was the first to acknowledge he would not have got out of the hotel in grindlewald without Kenton and Ian, let alone climbed the Eiger. The fact is, he isnt a climber, hates heights, yet he put himself through this for a very good cause. Christ, we have so few good role models to look up to these days, and so little good news, it makes me cringe to hear Al bleating on about how he could do it - well, here is my challenge..Al, do the North Face of the Eiger with Kenton and Ian and beat the amount of money Ran raises for a good cause.
 andy 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Nope - not even sure if they still live here. Sid Perou still does - and didn't Gibby live in Embsay at one point?
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> With regard to some of the nasty, uninformed suggestions above that Fiennes might be profiting from the donations, I think some people owe him a public apology on this thread.
Steve if you read back I dont think anybody has accused Ran of profiting from the donations directly, just that he profits from the publicity his money raising engenders.

 tony 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

So it's all fine and dandy for you and your camera crew to go off to Everest and make a film about climbers on Everest who are climbing for no reasons other than the climbing experience, but it's repugnant for Fiennes to go to the Eiger and make a load of money for a deserving charity?
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to andy: Yep, Gibby lived there too.
 Morgan Woods 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Anonymous)
> > Ok, whats wrong with this ascent(stunt), Well look at the state of Everest, I would like to confine this sort of thing, and the fact that you can only climb Everest if you are very rich just to Everest.
>

Good use of the straw man Al.....everest is a regulated dump for rich punters so Ran Fiennes is somehow the spawn of Satan....keep 'em coming.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tony:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> So it's all fine and dandy for you and your camera crew to go off to Everest and make a film about climbers on Everest who are climbing for no reasons other than the climbing experience, but it's repugnant for Fiennes to go to the Eiger and make a load of money for a deserving charity?

Yes. Because he has not thought through the possible impact on alpinism, in fact I doubt that he even understands enough about climbing to be aware of it.
Deejay 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Of course it's stupid, I even alluded to that:

"You see Al, my citicism of your ventures is unfair too."

Your criticism, and that of others as well just smells of sour grapes for some reason and they too were "stupid", given that this thread was merely to follow progress of the venture and to congratulate or commiserate accordingly.

The guy isn't a climber, has never pretended to be one and has done something which a lot of people on UKC, myself included, will never do, guided or otherwise.

Once again Al, have any of the critics on this thread actually attempted or succeeded on the Nordwand?

"I could go on at length, but its so off thread I won't."

Hasn't stopped you up to now Al.

Anyway I'm off to the real world and hopefully won't have to look at the spiteful drivel, written by some on this thread, for a while.


DJ
 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Steve Parker)
> [...]
> Steve if you read back I dont think anybody has accused Ran of profiting from the donations directly, just that he profits from the publicity his money raising engenders.

Oh yeah? How do you explain this post of yours from above then:

Al Evans in reply to Big Yin:

'I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.'

and

'Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.'

I don't care that you're about to tell me it actually means something different from what it says. The meaning is very plain. If you didn't mean what it says, then go and learn to speak English accurately so we don't misunderstand you. It's probably very close to libel as it stands. I reckon you owe RF an apology for casting such aspersions on his fund-raising integrity on a public forum.




OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Rob Naylor:

you really shouldn't bother with arguing.

people are being condemned by what is coming out of ther own virtual "mouths"
 Morgan Woods 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to tony)
> [...]
>
> Yes. Because he has not thought through the possible impact on alpinism, in fact I doubt that he even understands enough about climbing to be aware of it.

i had suspected climbers were an elitist bunch so thanks for confirming it.

i am a but myself but mainly confine it to grumbling about top ropers

I'm not sure why you're so worried about the danger to Alpinism...surely it's strong enough to withstand the occasional media circus.
 Morgan Woods 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

Al, when are you going to be training for the eiger anyway....you mentioned a few ifs about the possibility of an ascent earlier but i'm sure they can be overcome.
 tony 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to tony)
> [...]
>
> Yes. Because he has not thought through the possible impact on alpinism, in fact I doubt that he even understands enough about climbing to be aware of it.

And making a film to be shown on TV isn't going to have an impact on Everest expeditions? Your film put Everest in front of millions of people. You helped fuel the Everest circus by putting cameras onto the mountain.

Fiennes' effect on alpinism? You're in absolute cloud-cuckoo land if you think there's going to be any effect resulting from this. Compare and contrast the numbers of people attempting Mont Blanc with the Eiger - if alpine fees were going to be introduced, it would have been done long ago, on the mountains that most people are attracted to.
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to tony)
> [...]
>
> Yes. Because he has not thought through the possible impact on alpinism, in fact I doubt that he even understands enough about climbing to be aware of it.

Surely you should be slagging of Ian and Kenton more than RF ref this issue? After all they are real climbers and should be aware of these so call dangers to alpinism that you allude to. If they hadn’t accompanied him this ascent would never have happened.

Come on Al, why not start laying into them?
 martin mandel 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
shhhhhhhh its gone very quiet
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to martin mandel:



Everyones on their way to Grindlewald to climb what is now thanks to RF nothing more than a trade route.
 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: Yes i do actually know plenty of people from private scools there all ok but a few of them use terms such as 'chav' and 'pleb' and think they are better than others because there parents are richer and because they claim to be more educated. But your right genrally there just normal people. its not their fault they are simply mindless robots of the sytem they go through and are not consious of what they are doing. this isn't meant to insult them but at the age their parents send them to these sorts of schools it is unlikely they will see the injustice of it.

But everyone should have an equal chance at education, i cannot understand why you think it is ok for someone to get a smaller chance of education just because their parents are less well off than another family this is irrational and will only make the unfair capatalist country we live in more unfair and irrational.

I would like to go to university but must say im rather worried that this isn't an opportunity for all on purely finacial grounds, i will think about it before i go and must do some research into it all.

Did you go to a private school?
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall: gotcha. wasn,t meant to bring up issue of illegal guiding per se. Just that it is not policed effectively and its criminal law! Hence a Mt Blanc peak fee would be even harder!
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:

>
> I heard a story about an incident where the "guide" was helicoptered away and the "client" instructed to wait until an official guide arrived. If that happened to me I'd be furious. Actually I have a full-on rant all prepared in case of this eventuality, so if it happens to us they will have a shock


regardless of whether you or I mind about illegal guiding or not is not the issue. In France at least it is breaking criminal law to guide illegally with a maximum penalty of a few thousand euro fine and upto a year in (french) prison!

I believe the criteria is money changing hands, but could include payment in kind, don't know...
In reply to guywillett:

I was thinking more of a situation where you are climbing with someone specifically because you want to climb with them in particular, and you also want to help them financially as a friend.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Al is right I did bring up tibet as an option for eveferst. Remember it is not the tibetans who have committed atrocities it is the chinese! The majority of people benefiting from an expedition in tibet are nepali sherpas and/or local tibetan 'sherpas' and tradesmen . Of course the peak fee type cash goes to the government. Local populations are adapting to the potential earnings associated with tourism and capitalising on it (good for them).

I agree with Al, I am not sure that boycotting Tibet is the best way to deal with the problem. And in my limited experience of tibet, tourism is only raising awareness and some money for locals...the chinese put on a glossy face, but most see through it. Also most of the chinese I saw there didn't want to be there!
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to andy: hi andy! mypost wasn'tspecifically responding to you, but in general! looks like we're on the same wavelength...
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell: yup. All a grey area! Most people would agree, i think,that climbing with a better mate, who is effectively 'guiding' is fine! Paying him in my book is fine too, but the authorities might beg to differ!

In fact illegal guiding doesn't bother me as long as the 'clients' appreciate exactly what is going on etc etc.

I see quite alot of it out here and some illegal guides look like they are doing a good job, and some look shocking but think they are being safe! (same as qualified guides?!? oops, can of worms!)
 skeev 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to skeev)
> [...]
>
> I will, send me details.

Thanks Al, I'll mail you a link to the Justgiving page once it's set up. Much appreciated!

 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tony:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
Compare and contrast the numbers of people attempting Mont Blanc with the Eiger - if alpine fees were going to be introduced, it would have been done long ago, on the mountains that most people are attracted to.


This is not true, the classic easy route in the Alps will never have 'route' fees, because the revenue due to torism for things like My Blanc outweighs its negative impact if it was charged.
But things like the great North Faces get comparitively few ascents, hence small impact on tourism, these are what I think are at threat, with the N of the E being an obvious target.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Al Evans) Sober up and get a grip

Pathetic, is that the best you can do?
 sutty 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

FFS Al, go and moan on this thread, three peaks one.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=233222
OP Anonymous 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:


Don't worry I think the Swiss are rich enough to survive without them starting to charge 1000SF each for a few dozen attemps each year on the Eigerwand. If on the other hand the reason to start charging is to reduce the numbers on the mountain then surely your argument about the reasons for not charging on easier routes blows this apart.

I am struggling to find any other arguments apart from those 2 above for any introduction of route fees.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous: See Francoise earlier post.
 AJM 19 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> its not their fault they are simply mindless robots of the sytem they go through and are not consious of what they are doing. this isn't meant to insult them but at the age their parents send them to these sorts of schools it is unlikely they will see the injustice of it.

I am amused by the idea of everyone in a private school being a mindless robot of the system, I have to say. Or more, I'm amused by the idea that you might be typing that seriously.

I assume it hasn't occurred to you that by labelling all public school kids as the kind of people who "sit in dorms mocking plebs" you were guilty of generalisations and unfounded prejudices of the same order that you ascribe to them?

> But everyone should have an equal chance at education, i cannot understand why you think it is ok for someone to get a smaller chance of education just because their parents are less well off than another family this is irrational and will only make the unfair capatalist country we live in more unfair and irrational.

Everyone in this country has the right to be educated to GCSE level. Allowing for enough intelligence to pass however many GCSE's it is, they also have a right to be educated to A level, and assuming they can pass those they can be educated to degree level. Thats not a "smaller chance of education" (its not a chance, its a certainty up to GCSE which is enforced by law AFAIK), thats (assuming 4-21) 18-19 years of it which you are entitled to as long as you are prepared to put some work in and pass the required exams.

And eventually I suppose its worth noting that the idealistic notion of everyone recieving equal everything doesn't really work in reality. Several places tried, and I'm damned sure that in none of the various experiments with communism did the sons and daughters of whoever was on the central committee or whatever go to the same schools as the kids of the factory workers. We have a system where (certainly compared to most of the rest of the world) we have a good state education system. We also have other schools which select primarily on merit (believe it or not, if you are clever enough you can go to private school without paying any of the fees), we have universities which again select on merit, with government and university assistance for those who cannot otherwise afford it. Nothing is perfect in this world, but its a system which works about as well as most others I can see. Abolishing private schools will just fuel the postcode lottery and the market for private tuition. Its hardwired in that we want to try and protect and nourish our offspring, and for many people that means giving them the best start in life they can. Its not something you can make go away just by wishing it.

In response to your "I can't see why" comment, I take the opposite view in that if I have worked to earn my money then once the government has had its share I would like to broadly be able to use my money as I wish. Its a "small government, minimal interference" view of the world, but thats just me. I don't see that by allowing some people a theoretically better education you are actually harming anyone, as long as the basic level which is open to everyone is of a satisfactory standard, which I broadly believe it is.

> I would like to go to university but must say im rather worried that this isn't an opportunity for all on purely finacial grounds, i will think about it before i go and must do some research into it all.

I don't know how it changed with regards to the top-up fees, but I would imagine that you'd have to try pretty hard to avoid going to university on purely financial grounds. I'm pretty sure you avoid all tuition fees if you qualify, and most places have hardship grants, and of course you are entitled to a larger student loan if your parents can't or won't support you through university.

> Did you go to a private school?

'fraid so. On a scholarship, in my defence. And after that I went to Cambridge. If you let your prejudices get the better of you, I'm exactly the person you should love to hate.

But on the other hand, I know lots of people from school who dropped out at GCSE, more who didn't go to uni, a fair few who dropped out of uni, some who finished uni (from a variety of places, I hasten to add - going to private school is not a free ticket into a good university no matter how much you may wish to believe it) and have then gone on to do nothing much with themselves, and some who have gone on to get decent jobs. From the variety of jobs which I did to support myself whilst I was at uni, I've met lots of other people, and the destinations are pretty much the same. I suspect that in the end it won't look that different from the spread of destinations of pupils from the state school just down the road. I don't think its the all-encompassing ticket to success that you seem to think it is.

AJM
 Morgan Woods 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to tony)
> [...]
> > But things like the great North Faces get comparitively few ascents, hence small impact on tourism, these are what I think are at threat, with the N of the E being an obvious target.

what's the big threat you keep referring to? is the sky gonna fall in or what?
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods: I think Al means the threat of peak/route fees levied at those climbing on the eiger NF and similar and the controls/vetting that that might bring with it.

I have to say I think the threat is minimal, because in part of the reason Al thinks they are under threat. If hardly anyone climbs the eiger NF there's not much point in making a peak fee as it would be a load of hassle for minimalincome...

More chance of a mont blanc fee I think or matterhorn....
 TobyA 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM:

> going to private school is not a free ticket into a good university no matter how much you may wish to believe it

It is though very clearly a major help as statistics year after year show. The percentage of state to private entrants to Oxbridge hasn't changed since the start of the 1990s as an example. Indeed, if it wasn't, it would clearly be a huge case of market failure. Why pay for what you can get for free if it wasn't markedly better?

You can make many perfectly reasonable arguments for private education, even if some of us don't agree with them, but trying to say that it doesn't give you an advantage, is not one of them.
 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: it was kinda not serious as in, i was trying to say i dont blame private school kids as they genrally dont choose to go there, itll be their parents choice.

I cant say i love or hate you, i dont know you and so wont make a judment other than youve obviously worked hard becasue cambridge isn't easy to get into... before you say i made a judment about fiennes before i knew him i simply judged his actions, im sure hes a nice man but he is misguided in the best actions to take.
Chris James 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM:
>
>(believe it or not, if you are clever enough you can go to private school without paying any of the fees

Thsi may well be true. But it is an absolute certainty that a rich person's child could attend the same school even if they were as thick as two short planks.

Having a few scholarships as a sop to their charitable status does not make privtae schools egalitarian.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Chris James: this is a reply in general.... Surely abolishing public schools so its fair to everyone is silly. It would just get rid of a source of education. Instead, the effort should be made to improve the comprehensive system so its in line with the private? How to do that- god knows!
 AJM 19 Mar 2007
In reply to TobyA:

Ah, come on Toby, play fair. I didn't say it doesn't necessarily give you an advantage, thats twisting my words. I said it wasn't a free ticket. Theres a huge difference.

Also, has it (the % change) really not? I find it surprising that 17 years of pressure by the government and others hasn't had any effect. Do you have a link (you must do, you are generally well-supplied with such things)?

Although mind you I did get told by an admissions tutor once that he would resign on the spot rather than take inferior candidates over better ones just because someone else wanted him to, which is to be honest the only attitude I would have any respect for in an admissions tutor who is supposed to decide on places by merit.

To be honest, I think half the problem with the state pupil ratio at Oxbridge is the myth and hype which surrounds it. Some people get over-awed, so to speak, into believing that everyone there is a toff, an uber-intelligent geek or whatever and that there is no way they would fit in because they're just a normal person. If the universities could get people to see that actually going to university there doesn't have to be that different from going to university at say Imperial or UCL (which academically it probably isn't, certainly for many subjects) then a lot more people from the state sector might apply. My personal experience of this is that I know my sister was absolutely insistent that she wouldn't ever apply to Oxbrdge because she was convinced she wouldn't fit in, couldn't take the work, etc etc etc. She changed her mind about applying in the end when she came up to visit me in my first year and found out that actually people who go to Oxbridge can be normal as well.

The trick with the interviews is to be good at showing how quickly you understand, not what you know, and I don't know how you can teach someone to pick things up faster. Private schools, perhaps, generally know more about Oxbridge, and its applications, and what its like in general, and so dispel the myths and auras about applying, hence encouraging more people to do so.

AJM
Chris James 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett:
> (In reply to Chris James) this is a reply in general.... Surely abolishing public schools so its fair to everyone is silly. It would just get rid of a source of education. Instead, the effort should be made to improve the comprehensive system so its in line with the private? How to do that- god knows!


Possibly, except that the tax payer is never going to be able / willing to fund state schools to the same tune as the rich can fund a private school like Eton. So by taking the course of action you describe you are effectively saying that you are content for nothing to change.

I do not think it is realpolitik to make private schools illegal by the way!

I do think that the presumption that eductaion, in itself, is good for the country - and therefore so are private schools - has to be balanced with the potential for dividing the country that a two (or more) tier education system has.
 AJM 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Chris James:

I'm getting sucked in now, and I really shouldn't.

But anyway, I'm not entirely convinced. Most places I know anything about have entrance exams. I can't think of anyone when I was at school who was stupid at a level below that required to pass the exam to get in, if you see what I mean. So I don't think its a certainty at all.

I do agree with whoever replied to your post. Instead of negativity about private schools, why not use them as a target to aim the state sector at? After all, as TobyA pointed out, if you can get them to that standard then the whole industry will collapse.

Without "better" schools, do you even know if the ones you have are crap? I don't know the answer to that really, but its a thought which has just popped into my head. If there were no league-topping schools, how do you know whether the schools you have are all glowing centres of excellence, or whether they are all the same shade of mediocrity and you just don't realise it. A random thought, I know. Not to be taken in any way as an attempt to defend the private school system, I hasten to add, just a mental musing.....

AJM
 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: In regard to your student fees stuff they are significant enough to stop someone from a poor background going. As you say you can get as many loans as you like unfortunately theres a downside to borrowing large amounts of money that whole re-payment thing.

i also didn't agrue private school was a free-ticket evidence posted here suggest perhaps this makes it easier but i wouldn't know so will remain neutral. However, if private schools dont have better teaching then i dont understand why youd want to go there my understanding is no doubt flawed but kids i know who go have to stay in dorms with other boys. Did you have to do this?

It certainly isn't an all encompassing ticket to success its a one-way ticket to complacency and laziness in many cases it would seem. Obviously not for yousrelf.

So then why should we have private schools? surely they only encourage segragation and mean that many of the students simply dont come into contact with the variety of people who live in this country and therefore become suspicious of them.
 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: a mate of mine failed the entrance exam but was assured a place as he payed his first years fees upfront.
In reply to Chris James:

> Thsi may well be true. But it is an absolute certainty that a rich person's child could attend the same school even if they were as thick as two short planks.
>
That's nonsense! My son has aspergers and we are such selfish horrible parents that we actually had the shame to consider sacrificing some of our hard-earned income to get him into a private school. This was to give him more of a chance to get the education he needs for the job he hopes to do.
As it happens he failed the entrance test and the school rejected him, but in any case the state education sector has come up with a solution we are happy with so I can't fault it.
 AJM 19 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> In regard to your student fees stuff they are significant enough to stop someone from a poor background going. As you say you can get as many loans as you like unfortunately theres a downside to borrowing large amounts of money that whole re-payment thing.

I can only think of one ex-student who doesn't have a student loan. Going to university without a student loan is nigh-on impossible for most people, which is why almost noone does it. A student loan has interest at something-quite-small above inflation, and hence is the best loan anyone will offer to give you ever, no question. You also don't have to pay it off until you reach a salary at which it is deemed you can afford it - if you earn under (I think) £15,000, or maybe its under £12,000, you don't have to repay it. It comes out of your pay packet at the same time as NI so its not as though you miss it because its kind of like you never had it anyway. And the whole idea behind it is that the advantage of going to university means you can get a better-paid graduate job and hence afford to pay it off. The reason why it gets bad press sometimes is that some people treat uni as a 3 year pissup, come out with a worthless degree, or drop out half-way through, and then have to pay it back without any of the advantages that using it to educate yourself would bring. If you actually work at university then you should find the advantages the degree gives you should outweigh the cost of the loan.

I worked most uni holidays. Lots and lots of my friends did the same - temping, bar work, supermarket shelf-stacking, call centres, manual work, you name it I probably know someone (if it wasn't me) who has done it. Loans and holiday work are the way that students survive in this country, thats just the way it goes.

> However, if private schools dont have better teaching then i dont understand why youd want to go there my understanding is no doubt flawed but kids i know who go have to stay in dorms with other boys. Did you have to do this?

Jesus no, definitely not. Not all non-state schools are boarding schools.

As for why, sometimes its better teaching, you can usually make an argument that they have better facilities, more opportunity to do a wider variety of sports, things like that. There are more factors than just teaching which could influence people's choices.

> It certainly isn't an all encompassing ticket to success its a one-way ticket to complacency and laziness in many cases it would seem. Obviously not for yousrelf.

I would argue that most people who are lazy and complacent in a private school would be fairly similar in a state school. Some people, when it comes down to it, are lazier and/or more complacent than others, and again I don't think you can simply say "state kids work hard, private school kids don't" because its demonstrably rubbish.

> So then why should we have private schools? surely they only encourage segragation and mean that many of the students simply dont come into contact with the variety of people who live in this country and therefore become suspicious of them.

Perhaps its because I didn't live in a dorm with other boys the whole time, but I knew lots and lots of people from outside the school community and have to confess to never being suspicious of them except when they were actually wierd or nutty............. I think perhaps you are using your friends at boarding school as a model for the entire private school sector, and its just not an accurate sample to base it on.

AJM
 tobyfk 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> For anyone who can't be bothered to read all through this huge thread, I think this post from Ian Parnell (one of Ranulph Fiennes's guides) is worth pasting here to give a bit of informed perspective:

> 2 other points if you think the charity aspect was just a byproduct of his publicity ventures then you are way off the mark. Ran's wife Ginny, his mother and his sister all died of Cancer. I've a friend who is dying of cancer too its something that leaves a massive impact on you, the sort of thing you don't fake, the sort of thing you want to do something about.

Reluctant though I am to get back in the way of this tidal wave of sanctimony, but, please, no one delude yourself that you have a monopoly on experience of cancer - my father died slowly and unpleasantly of myeloma when I was 25; a cousin is in the final stages of brain cancer right now; it impacts most of us eventually - nor that it makes your arguments any more or less persuasive.
In reply to tobyfk:

I have read this whole thread, and the only thing that I have taken from it is that Al Evans used to be an alcoholic. I have made this assumption due to the fact that it appears to be the "best" insult to get a reaction, and not just from Al Evans. If someone told me to sober up I would not find it very offensive, but if they knew I had had a serious drink problem then that would be different.

Anyone else notice this interesting aside?
shaggyleo 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

> Surely you should be slagging of Ian and Kenton more than RF ref this issue? After all they are real climbers and should be aware of these so call dangers to alpinism that you allude to. If they hadn’t accompanied him this ascent would never have happened.
>
> Come on Al, why not start laying into them?

He is not brave enough to do that because of what might come back his way!

Also, Al, would you say Ian is rich?.....because he has been on Everest (correct me if i am wrong about that one).
I would like to believe that it was talent that got him there.
 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Michael Woods:
> (In reply to tobyfk)
>
> I have read this whole thread, and the only thing that I have taken from it is that Al Evans used to be an alcoholic. I have made this assumption due to the fact that it appears to be the "best" insult to get a reaction, and not just from Al Evans. If someone told me to sober up I would not find it very offensive, but if they knew I had had a serious drink problem then that would be different.
>
> Anyone else notice this interesting aside?

Yes. I have.

 Al Evans 19 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo: I don't know if Ian and Kenton are rich, I suspect not, but I am not sure why its relevant? Very few people on really major expeditions go to Everest without merit, and usually that merit allows for some sponsorship so unlike the 'rich' people that buy their way up it (the bulk of summiters these days), they usually dont have to shell much out of their own pockets. Quite rightly, they are climbing as proper climbers and should be able to approach the mountain as such.
That Nepal needs the money is a different issue.
In reply to Al Evans: I thought so. Hope you are on the mend or completely over it.

 Steve Parker 19 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:
>
> Reluctant though I am to get back in the way of this tidal wave of sanctimony, but, please, no one delude yourself that you have a monopoly on experience of cancer - my father died slowly and unpleasantly of myeloma when I was 25; a cousin is in the final stages of brain cancer right now; it impacts most of us eventually - nor that it makes your arguments any more or less persuasive.

Sorry to hear all that, but you were responding to someone else's post above. I haven't mentioned cancer.
shaggyleo 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to andy) The constant Everest comparison is flawed! You do NOT have to be rich to climb everest! However, if you want guides, oxygen, fixed rope,sherpas, potential rescue, bacon butties at besecamp et etc you do need to pay a shed load!

Sorry guy, you do have to be rich, forget everything else the peak fees alone ensure that.

Relevant because you wrote the above in reply to Andy
 Moacs 19 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

Sorry to repeat myself but:

"Christ what a depressing thread.

I've no problem with the ascent or the manner of it - in fact I think both are admirable.

Yes, he plays the media. Impressively skillfully too.
No, he's not (by his own admission) an expert mountaineer.
But he stuck it.

And he's had the drive and vision over the years to use his various talents to the maximum. I'll be a happy man if I can say the same when I finally get old.

...

Unbelievable - both the man and the reactions to it on this thread."

John

In reply to Moacs:

I'll echo those sentiments.

If you go out to raise money for charity, then why not do it in as big a way as possible. This inevitably requires 'publicity seeking'; how else do you secure large sponsorship?

I can't see the 'slippery slope' argument myself. Plenty of people already pay guides to take them up mountains, for purely selfish reasons. If Fiennes has done it for selfish reasons, then at least he's raised a lot of cash for a deserving cause, rather than simply being able to brag about it afterwards (which, from what I've seen, he hasn't done at all).

But I do see rather a lot of what looks awfully like bile and jealousy, poorly presented as 'concern for the future of climbing'.
 jl100 19 Mar 2007
In reply to AJM: Theyre not my freinds anymore ive dis-owned them because of it and now regularly post flaming petrol covered cloths through their doors.

Anyway good to talk to someone with experience of the whole thing.

Joe
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo: if you research the options carefully and go via tibet it does not cost that much considering you are away for 8+ weeks (6-8000US). If you disagree with this you have not done your homework! Of course this sort of price does not include the much publicised 5 star treatment/back up...
gourd 19 Mar 2007
In reply to captain paranoia:

> But I do see rather a lot of what looks awfully like bile and jealousy, poorly presented as 'concern for the future of climbing'.

I once ran a marathon and raised money for charity. Should I be concerned about the future of athletics?

Couldn't agree with you more. What a pile of toss.

Good on you Mr. Fiennes. I am very jealous.
guywillett 19 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett: to put this costing in comparison, mylate friend Jules used to say it cost about a grand or 2 to climb an alpine grand course by the time you factor accomodation, beer, lift passes etc etc in as you end up waiting around alot and doing other things waiting for conditions etc
joewens 19 Mar 2007
More to the point.....what was a journalist doing getting out of a helicopter onto the summit of the Eiger? Those places should surely be the domain only of the people who put the effort into climbing them....assisted or not...! A lazy journalist whose flown up there should not be allowed to say he's been to the summit! That made me really cross!!

 KeithW 19 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:

> Sorry guy, you do have to be rich, forget everything else the peak fees alone ensure that.

Sorry; but that is utter rubbish.

Not one of the people I know who have summited Everest could be described as rich. They are all very dedicated & committed mountaineers who worked hard to make it happen.

Anyone on here who whines about "not being able to afford it" just doesn't want it enough.
 dave1 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: Very mixed feelings about this. Great acheivement, 60 years old (like me), I couldn't have done it (or could I with guides like that?), lots of money for a very good cause etc etc BUT can't help feeling it diminishes the actual route itself somehow, turns it into an obstacle course, and in doing so the climb itself becomes just another stunt. I was surprised by Venables article in the Sunday Times; I hope it was heavily edited, made my toes curl.
 tobyfk 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:

> Sorry to hear all that, but you were responding to someone else's post above. I haven't mentioned cancer.

Bollocks, Steve. You re-posted Ian's post. I repeat: "tidal wave of sanctimony"

shaggyleo 20 Mar 2007
In reply to guywillett:

Sorry Guy, but i was quoting Al Evans. I have not said you have to be rich, quite the opposite in fact.

shaggyleo 20 Mar 2007
In reply to KeithW:

Could we please clear this up, "the you do have to be rich" quote is an Al Evans quote which I strongly diszgree with and I totally agree with what you have said.
 Marc C 20 Mar 2007
In reply to dave1: Apparently, Sir Ran's of to Africa next to attempt the East Face of the Niger - guided by two local Tuareg tribesmen (using hippos as 'sherpas'). The Eiger might have been tough, but nowhere near as fearsome as the Niger's 'Traverse of the Frogs', 'Wet Bivouac' and notorious duck-infested 'Exit Quacks'.
 Steve Parker 20 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:
>
> Bollocks, Steve. You re-posted Ian's post. I repeat: "tidal wave of sanctimony"

Call it what you want. A load of groundless and paranoiac alarmism about someone climbing the Eiger, coupled with accusations of his creaming off the donations, deserves what it gets in response. I re-posted those 2 posts as they were from people who actually know the person involved, and seemed to me to be rather more informed than the rest of us.

 martin mandel 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay: "bile and jealousy, poorly presented as 'concern for the future of climbing'."
you hit the nail squarely on the head.
something to do with growing old disgracefully........
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> (In reply to tobyfk)
> [...]
>
coupled with accusations of his creaming off the donations, deserves what it gets in response.
Steve, check back, I have never accused Ran of creaming off the donations, for a start I wouldnt allow myself to be open to sueing like that.
I merely said he makes a living out of being a charity worker. There are many ways that works without 'creaming of donations' Apologies please.
rich 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: i don't need to check back - you were more than happy to imply it - give it a rest ffs
 Steve Parker 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

> Steve, check back, I have never accused Ran of creaming off the donations, for a start I wouldnt allow myself to be open to sueing like that.
> I merely said he makes a living out of being a charity worker. There are many ways that works without 'creaming of donations' Apologies please.

What's this all about then?

Al Evans in reply to Big Yin:

'I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.'

and

'Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.'


 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to captain paranoia:
> If you go out to raise money for charity, then why not do it in as big a way as possible. This inevitably requires 'publicity seeking'; how else do you secure large sponsorship?
Plenty of people already pay guides to take them up mountains, for purely selfish reasons. If Fiennes has done it for selfish reasons, then at least he's raised a lot of cash for a deserving cause, >
> But I do see rather a lot of what look awfully like bile and jealousy, poorly presented as 'concern for the future of climbing'.

I have nothing against guides, and congratulation to Ran for making lots for a worthwhile cause.Why would I be jealous? And it may 'look awfullylike bile', but I assure you its not. I have nothing against the man personally
but it doesn't stop me hating all the grovelling praise for what was an over egged publicity stunt on one of Europes finest mountaineering challenges.
I'm glad some good at least has come of it in the shape of the charity money, but I can seperate the two events in my mind and dislike thae way it was raised.
And if he hadn't wanted to climb the Eiger I dont believe he would have done it.
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to rich:
> (In reply to Al Evans) i don't need to check back - you were more than happy to imply it - give it a rest ffs

If you can show me where I implied that I'll answer you.
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> What's this all about then?
>
> Al Evans in reply to Big Yin:
>
> 'I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.'
>
> and
>
> 'Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.'

I can't speak for Big Yin, but I have worked and collected for charities on several occaisions and you never get in all that was promised, that was all I meant, nothing, not even by implication that Ran 'creamed off donations'. If you want to interepret it like that you must really have it in for me, why?

 KeithW 20 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:

> Could we please clear this up,

Sorry about that, I was typing late in the evening after skim-reading the later entries.
 Steve Parker 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> If you want to interepret it like that you must really have it in for me, why?

Anyone would interpret it like that. If you meant it to say something different, then you should have been much more careful about what you wrote. It's very, very close to being libellous, Al.

As for having it in for you, I suggest you re-read the thread and look at the times I posted in your defence.

 tony 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> I can't speak for Big Yin, but I have worked and collected for charities on several occaisions and you never get in all that was promised, that was all I meant, nothing, not even by implication that Ran 'creamed off donations'. If you want to interepret it like that you must really have it in for me, why?

Because the very clear implication of what you were saying and the way you were saying suggested that you believed that Fiennes was taking money from the charitable donations. Maybe you should learn to be a bit more careful about what you say and the way you say it.
Paul Twomey 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

I hate getting involved with all this bullshit you seem to be trying to stir, but alas I have been provoked into reaction and this is my little bit for the record.
I have spent 11 days with Ran over the course of the last 12 months, helping him improve both his climbing skills and general fitness. We have shared some great days out on various crags in the SW and some hard training sessions indoors.
Having spent more time climbing with Ran than I have anyone else over this period, I feel I am free to make a fair assessment of both his character and his motivations for putting himself through hell to climb this face. If you are in a better position for this then please correct me.
Ran is not a climber, but he is a professional adventurer and thus he makes his living, very successfully, from lecturing and writing. He is motivated by the challenge to do something that is beyond his realistic limits, often where the margin for error is incredibly small and the outcome potentially fatal.
He certainly is a great publicist, and driven by unfortunate personal circumstances he is using that talent to ease the lives of people who find themselves in the same situation. This I find admirable, maybe you do not? At the same time he is inspiring people who watch the news, see his lectures and read his books to do something good beyond their everyday lives.
Ran's ability to dig deep within himself and find strength and hope where most of us would not is a testament to his determination and will to suceed. He is an ordinary person who pushes far beyond his boundries to do extraordinary things.
Yes there are many 60 year old climbers who are doing amazing things - but we're not looking at a climber here, we're looking at a man who suffers from acute vertigo, has missing fingers and starting at the age of 62, has been climbing for what amounts to a couple days a month for a year... There are also many amazing matathon runners, but not many that I know who run 7 marathons in 7 days on 7 continents within months of extensive heart bypass surgery...
I personally have only been inspired by his company and have nothing but respect for both the feats he has achieved and the good he had done for others who are not so fortunate. He is a good man Mr Evans so please, just because he is successful, please do not belittle him with your or your friends narrow minded prejudices.
 stonewall 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Twomey:

well said sir
 Morgan Woods 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Steve Parker)
> [...]
> I have never accused Ran of creaming off the donations, for a start I wouldnt allow myself to be open to sueing like that.

i understand the distinction, but if you did accuse him of that would he really give a toss....aren't you overestimating your importance in the overall scheme of things Al? (UKC woulda just zapped your post and that would be that)

i've followed this (bizarrely quite interesting) thread and the main arguments i've drawn out are:

- RF is not a real climber so his ascent doesn't amount to anything
- he went to a private school so his achievements shouldn't account for anything
- his actions will have a negative impact on alpinism
- he once amputated one of his own digits contrary to medical best practice (ok slightly facetious)

these are all bullshit arguments that reek of tall poppy syndrome.

I'm quite happy for him to raise money for charity how he sees fit....i think from a pure mountaineering point of view the only negative of the whole thing is getting helicoptered off the top....esp. as they didn't seem to be in any great danger once summitted (correct me if i'm wrong).

 DougG 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Twomey:

Again, very well said.
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo: Extract from the very comprehensive Observer article on howe to climb Everest.

Start saving: Climbing Everest alone is almost impossible, so you'll need to find the money to join an expedition. The going rate is £29,000 for a 70-day trip. This includes hotel and airport transfer fees, accommodation in Kathmandu, all road transport by private vehicles, camping facilities and meals on Everest, oxygen supply and apparatus, as well as costs for porterage, leaders, guides and Sherpas. It doesn't include return flights to Kathmandu, which will cost in the region of £800, or a visa (£20). Tipping the Sherpas is expected, but expedition organisers are coy about the precise amount.

To me, thats being rich.
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
importance in the overall scheme of things Al?
I have no illusions about my own unimportance

> - he went to a private school so his achievements shouldn't account for anything
I have nothing against him going to private school, I did myself at pre-grammar level.

> - his actions will have a negative impact on alpinism
I think, rightly or wrongly that they will, it remains to be seen, but thats just a personal opinion and no need for the vehemence and twisting of my words

> - he once amputated one of his own digits contrary to medical best practice (ok slightly facetious)
no comment

> I'm quite happy for him to raise money for charity how he sees fit....i think from a pure mountaineering point of view the only negative of the whole thing is getting helicoptered off the top....esp. as they didn't seem to be in any great danger once summitted (correct me if i'm wrong).

Having done it the way it was done I think that is the least of problems with this ascent. Helicoptering off is not a precedent. Catherine Destiville even did it on the Old Man of Hoy.
 Trangia 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to shaggyleo) Extract from the very comprehensive Observer article on howe to climb Everest.
>
> Start saving: Climbing Everest alone is almost impossible, so you'll need to find the money to join an expedition. The going rate is £29,000 for a 70-day trip. This includes hotel and airport transfer fees, accommodation in Kathmandu, all road transport by private vehicles, camping facilities and meals on Everest, oxygen supply and apparatus, as well as costs for porterage, leaders, guides and Sherpas. It doesn't include return flights to Kathmandu, which will cost in the region of £800, or a visa (£20). Tipping the Sherpas is expected, but expedition organisers are coy about the precise amount.
>
> To me, thats being rich.


I don't agree. It's more a matter of ones life priorities. If someone REALLY wants to do it, most people could, at sometime in their life, raise that sort of money. The key is they have to really want it, and that means sacrificing other luxuries. For example most smokers and drinkers spend far more than that on cigarettes and alcohol during a lifetime, and they are not rich.
 Morgan Woods 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to shaggyleo) Extract from the very comprehensive Observer article on howe to climb Everest.
>
> Start saving: Climbing Everest alone is almost impossible, so you'll need to find the money to join an expedition. The going rate is £29,000 for a 70-day trip.

> To me, thats being rich.

the actual peak fee for a 2 person expedition is $40,000 from here:

http://www.nepalmountainnews.org/royalty_fees.php

so £20k at current rates. assuming that one was an experienced mountaineer (and not a peak bagging punter) who already had the equipment then surely you could manage all the other expenses for say £5k.

It's still alot for one trip and something i have no desire to do but there are loads of other cheaper peaks out there so who really cares? And if you really wanted to i'm sure most people could scrounge up £25k if they saved up for long enough (and sold the car and wife).

what's with this everest obsession anyway and how did it come into this thread?
 Trangia 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
>>
> what's with this everest obsession anyway and how did it come into this thread?
>

Quite right too! Why hasn't anyone brought a guided ascent of Rum Doodle into the equation?

 Steve Parker 20 Mar 2007
I think I'm done with this idiocy. Al Evans has neatly heisted a thread that was about a quite remarkable feat by a 63 year old guy. Al starts out by stating that he's impressed that Fiennes could actually do something real. Then he starts hinting that he knows things about Fiennes that others don't. Then he says Fiennes sickens him. Next he suggests that some of Fiennes's earlier expeditions might have involved some false claims. Then there are implications of money being creamed off the charity donations. All of this is accompanied by general criticism and character assassination. None of it is in any way substantiated. The most tangible suggestion is that the much-feared North Wall will now become an expensive playground for rich punters as a result of RF climbing it with 2 guides. Anyone who actually has been involved with RF, and knows him, and posts in his defence, is more or less ignored. The Evans critique rolls on, impervious to inside information or reason. I'm not wasting my time any further. You're a very silly and unreasonable man, Mr Evans.
 Paul Atkinson 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans: So, to summarise:

“I have no respect for him at all, nothing I can see that would make me respect him. Everybody I know who has deep knowledge of him regards him as a charlaton, I have no deep knowledge of him but I had come to that conclusion from reading between the lines of his exploits and how he chose to portray them.”

“On the amazing stakes he is probably something less than a thousandth of all the brilliant adventurers and climbers out there. Its nearly all just bull shit, I guess he does what he says he does, but its nothing compared to what proper climbers do. Mick Fowler, Nick Bullock et al, real people doing real things, he sickens me.”

“I have met the man, twice, and I know people who are to say the least well informed and dispute some of his claims”

“Oh I'd just love it RF working in McDonalds, and thats the point isnt it, he is by profession an incredibly well paid charity worker, others do it for nothing other than that they care. What he does sucks.”

“I can despise him for making his living out of it when so many do it for nothing. And I can see the things he does as stupid self agrandisement and inflation of his own ego. He makes money out of doing things (adventures) we all like to do, things that fulfill his ego and that most of us would keep to ourselves, charity or not, and hides it all behind a facade of charity work. Nonsense.”

“My attacks on RF are based on sincere opinions based on facts”

“As to my personal criticism of Ran, its just that, personal”

“I also have a healthy distrust of people who raise money for charity because in my experience they often raise quite a lot for themselves.”


“Good point, every body is saying he raised 2.5 million, I wonder if we will ever hear how much actually ended up with the charity.”



Finished off with my own favourite:


“I have nothing against the man personally”



 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Atkinson: You can't win can you, Old Ran gets criticised for the way he did it, and young Tom Ballard gets criticised for attempting (I think its likely to be successful) to solo it in winter.
 Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Paul Atkinson) You can't win can you

It's not about winning, Al.

I'd just drop it.
 Rob Naylor 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker:
> I think I'm done with this idiocy. Al Evans has neatly heisted a thread that was about a quite remarkable feat by a 63 year old guy. Al starts out by stating that he's impressed that Fiennes could actually do something real. Then he starts hinting that he knows things about Fiennes that others don't. Then he says Fiennes sickens him. Next he suggests that some of Fiennes's earlier expeditions might have involved some false claims. Then there are implications of money being creamed off the charity donations. All of this is accompanied by general criticism and character assassination. None of it is in any way substantiated. The most tangible suggestion is that the much-feared North Wall will now become an expensive playground for rich punters as a result of RF climbing it with 2 guides. Anyone who actually has been involved with RF, and knows him, and posts in his defence, is more or less ignored. The Evans critique rolls on, impervious to inside information or reason. I'm not wasting my time any further. You're a very silly and unreasonable man, Mr Evans.

Excellent summary. I'm out, too.
 Al Evans 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> It's not about winning, Al.
>
> I'd just drop it.

Mick, I'm trying to, this thread has got out of hand but people just keep attacking me personally which neccesitates a reply, stop it or pull it now with MY blessing at least.
 Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> Mick, I'm trying to, this thread has got out of hand

I think if you make wild claims, as you have, people will respond.





 Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> I'm trying

Advice......don't visit this thread and it will stop.
 Morgan Woods 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
> [...]
> > I think, rightly or wrongly that they will, it remains to be seen, but thats just a personal opinion and no need for the vehemence and twisting of my words
>

i didn't think i was twisting your words, and i certainly wasn't slagging you off personally (unlike some here) so don't take it the wrong way. it was more about trying to understand why you see only negatives in such a charitable enterprise. where's the love Al?

back in Oz we might say you'd complain about the noise of the rain on a hot tin roof after a prolonged drought. (ok i made that up but you get the idea).
 Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I think, at the core of this, and I may be wrong, is that Al before he retired was involved in the media, and heavily involved in the climbing media, both magazines and filming.

From that draw your own conclusions.
 Morgan Woods 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

be that as it may but more importantly can we get to 500 replies on this?
 dek 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Als strapline for Sky...The Real Eiger Sanction!
Self Harming OAP Toff Knife Maniac climbs Eiger North Face!.....Guides say he tried to "Chop my rope" on the Traverse of the Gods.....
Took four days for the 'chopper' to get us off wall of death...
shibboleth 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

After reading all the sh!te and bile you've posted over the past few days I am reminded of the words of an earlier North Face adventurer - Clint Eastwood in The Eiger Sanction - when the word ASSHOLE reverberated all the way down to Kleine Scheddig. Would make a fitting epitaph for you, Al.
 martin mandel 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
if everyone who has posted gave a couple of quid to Marie Curie.............
Go on punks, make my day
 Trangia 20 Mar 2007
In reply to martin mandel:
> (In reply to Deejay)
> if everyone who has posted gave a couple of quid to Marie Curie.............
> Go on punks, make my day

I like it! The most consructive comment posted so far on this thread. Does anyone have a contact address for this charity?
 lordmatt 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

He's a journalist/media guru and is a well versed in the art of talking shite?
 martin mandel 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
as clint said in Dirty Harry
'When a naked man is chasing a woman through an alley with a butcher knife and a hard-on, I figure he isn't out collecting for the Red Cross.'
this link will enable you to donate to Marie Curie instead!!!!!!
www.mariecurie.org.uk/supportus/
 Ridge 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

I make it 500!
shaggyleo 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Al Evans:
>
> Mick, I'm trying to, this thread has got out of hand but people just keep attacking me personally which neccesitates a reply,

Al, you bring it all upon yourself by posting utter crap which contains many contradictions and you bait others to respond. Listen to what has been said by those who know him and try to believe that they might just be telling the truth.

Paul Twomey....good man and very well said.

Sir Ran..... I admire him a heck of a lot more than a week ago and I honestly struggle to see that what he does can be described as anything less than admirable.

That is hopefully me out of this one.
 ChrisDaly 20 Mar 2007
In reply to shaggyleo:

On a positive note in terms of celebrities as positive role models, what do Peter Andre and Jordan have to offer this thread?
I started reading this and ending up stopping at a bit about celebrity positive role models for some reason....
 jl100 20 Mar 2007
In reply to ChrisDaly:
> (In reply to shaggyleo)
>
> On a positive note in terms of celebrities as positive role models, what do Peter Andre and Jordan have to offer this thread?

I dont think they post on ukc.
Removed User 20 Mar 2007
In reply to ChrisDaly: I have severe case of lassitude brought on by this thread im off to get some champers..i may be some time.
karl walton 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Removed User:
Ahh yes thread lassitude, the most serious kind, off to your sleeping bag at once.
karl walton 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Removed User:
Bugger you sucked me into posting on this thread, when I promised myself that I wouldn't.
Removed User 20 Mar 2007
In reply to karl walton: have some champers then as a consolation im off to measure up another thread.
 Timmd 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

This thread is beyond me,here's a bloke with a fear of heights and missing finger digits who's lost three family members or people he loved to cancer,and who uses the fact that he's good at generating publicity to raise money for a cancer charity and in the process probably inspires other people to test themselves as well,by climbing the Eiger,and people go on about whether he's a real climber,or how priviliged he is,or was growing up,and speculate about how much of a cut of the money which is rased he's going to get at the end. He's raised the profile of Mari Curie in the media which seems a good thing to me.

Cheers
Tim
 Timmd 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Timmd:And how do people know that he hasn't already given money to Marie Curie personally already,before he decided to climb the Eiger? It seems really mean sprited to start asking negative questions about what he's done.

Cheers
Tim
Removed User 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Timmd: never let facts and testimony from people who were there get in the way of a good old lynching....and then a rapid retreat saying it wasn't me guv..honest.



 jl100 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Timmd:

He's raised the profile of Mari Curie in the media which seems a good thing to me.

Agreed!
 BrianT 21 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Because for a lot of people climbing is like a spiritual search. It feels violated by this kind of circus.
>
SPLUTTER! Just spat me tea all over the keyboard.
One assumes you're posting that with huge irony. You'll be talking about the rock as a 'harsh mistress' next.

A mountain is a lump of rock with or without snow. Piece of lumpy ground. Mystical my feckin' ARSE! GUFFAW!!!

Ace thread btw. Very entertaining.
 BrianT 21 Mar 2007
In reply to francoisecall:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Because for a lot of people climbing is like a spiritual search. It feels violated by this kind of circus.
>
SPLUTTER! Just spat me tea all over the keyboard.
One assumes you're posting that with huge irony. You'll be talking about the rock as a 'harsh mistress' next.

A mountain is a lump of rock with or without snow. Piece of lumpy ground. Mystical my feckin' ARSE! GUFFAW!!!
international 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
You seem to have a problem with spirituality - could this be the same BrianT who tosses off whenever he cuts down a tree to appease some tree spirits or some such bollocks?

And, of course, francoisecall was describing climbing as a spiritual search, she wasn't saying mountains are mystical in and of themselves. The difference should be clear even to a tosser such as yourself!

Anyhow, glad to see you've got rid of that ridiculously self-regarding profile essay.
 tlm 21 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:

> But everyone should have an equal chance at education, i cannot understand why you think it is ok for someone to get a smaller chance of education just because their parents are less well off than another family.

So what are you doing to improve the chance at education that most of the rest of the world have? Do you understand that you are part of a privileged elite for having the fantastic education that you do? That most people in the world don't even get the chance to learn to read or write? or is that a completely different thing as far as you are concerned, and you only choose to look at those who are better off than you, and not at those who are worse off?
 BrianT 21 Mar 2007
In reply to international:
> (In reply to BrianT)
> You seem to have a problem with spirituality - could this be the same BrianT who tosses off whenever he cuts down a tree to appease some tree spirits or some such bollocks?

Ah but trees are alive. They react to their surroundings just like we do.
>
> And, of course, francoisecall was describing climbing as a spiritual search, she wasn't saying mountains are mystical in and of themselves. The difference should be clear even to a tosser such as yourself!
>
Mountains are nice but they aren't alive. Climbing is often dressed up as a quasi-religious experience, but it's no more soul-searching than gardening.

> Anyhow, glad to see you've got rid of that ridiculously self-regarding profile essay.

Pissed you off did it? How can a personal profile be other than self-regarding? I take it you disapprove of blogs?
 Michael Ryan 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
> (In reply to international)

> Mountains are nice but they aren't alive.

Beg to differ there Brian. Mountains are very much alive (even above tree line) and most feel more alive when they are amongst them. Surely one of the main reasons for spending time in the mountains. You can search for spirituality on a mountain but will only find it within yourself.

Mick
 jl100 21 Mar 2007
In reply to tlm: There are billions of people woese off than me, im aware of that. As ive said in my posts my mum and dad even gave me the option to go to a private scool despite disagreeing with it. This makes me extremely fortunate as does the fact that when i come home i have a quite place i can work and dont need to go out and work to support my family. My aim is for equality, as i said im lucky and wish others could be this lucky.

In regards to me being part of a privelidged elite on a global scale, i know. I hope you will appreciate however that the thread is about the acheivement of Ranulph and not a place where i intend on talking about all my believes and opinions on things. I was talking about private schools becasue it had a rather tenuous link to Ranulp Fiennes.

At present I give 2 pounds a month to UNICEF to try and help people who cannot read or write among other things of course, i know this is a pathetic contubtion but my parents give loads more and i intend to give more when i get a slightly better paying job and would also like to use the education i have been given to help those less fortunate than myself.

I hope if you read through all my other posts your other points should be answered.
 Steve Parker 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
> [...]
> Mountains are nice but they aren't alive. Climbing is often dressed up as a quasi-religious experience, but it's no more soul-searching than gardening.
>
An 'in my experience' might make all this a little more credible. Or is this the rule for all climbers? Thou shalt not search thy soul through climbing or gardening! How about telling all those Zen Buddhist monks who use gardening as meditation?
 jl100 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT: People do climbing for many different reasonsl, many will do it for spiritual reasons. For pragmatic people it isn't the most obvious thing to do.
 Mick Ward 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
> (In reply to francoisecall)

> A mountain is a lump of rock with or without snow. Piece of lumpy ground. Mystical my feckin' ARSE! GUFFAW!!!

You'll be telling us next that "A breast is a lump of flesh with or without my little offering. Piece of lumpy tissue. Mystical my feckin' ARSE! GUFFAW!!!"

'Harsh mistress', indeed...

Mick


 BrianT 21 Mar 2007
In reply to Steve Parker: I was saying I suppose, that gardening can ne spiritual, just like climbing. Climbing's nothing special. It doesn't sit above more 'mundane' activities. Speaking from experience Steve.
 BrianT 21 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ward: Only when it's dead and cold Mick. All the pleasure departs with the spark of life, unfortunately.
 Steve Parker 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:

Fair enough. You can probably 'find yourself' in any engaging activity if you do it with the right mindset. Different people find meaning in different things, though, and will often find one activity does sit above others for them. Obviously, Francoise feels like climbing is that activity in her case. I don't really get the objection.
 Mick Ward 21 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:

We'd better keep that spark alive then!

Mick
Keith Morgan 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
Somebody asked earlier about how to make a donation. Try this link
http://www.mariecurie.org.uk/?WT.srch=1(paid)
Anyway surely enough is enough on this thread (but well said Paul Twomey, Steve Parker and Rob Naylor).
However I would also like to add that whatever people may think about someones motivations to undertake such exploits it's worth noting that such activities do invariably inspire people to contribute and often also inspire people to undertake other activities to generate more funds.
If you want an excellent example then consider the exploits of the wife of a work colleague of mine. She has, along with the other original "Calendar Girls" so far raised over 2.5 million quid for Leukaemia Research from an initial idea which they thought might make £500 if they were lucky!!
Oh and one final thing, in my job I see cancer patients everyday and they are invariably people who have been admitted into hospital close to the end of their lives, with no hope of remission. IMHO any money which can be raised by Marie Curie Cancer Care to help people such as these die with dignity in their own homes and in the company of their loved ones, rather than in a hospital bed surrounded by strangers, deserves all the support it can get.



Stefan Lloyd 22 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor) Im sure you need to pay large amounts of money to go to eaton

Actually not necessarily. Being extremely bright can also get you there. I went to a state school, where a class-mate of mine got a 100% scholarship to Eton. His parents were by no means rich.
 jl100 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Stefan Lloyd: read all the thread!
Sarah G 22 Mar 2007
My goodness, this thread has been one hell of a bunfight, eh? Ages since there's been a good one.

Sxx
 gingerkate 22 Mar 2007
In reply to I Parnell:

Congratulations to all three of you ... so very courageous, and for such a good cause.
 tlm 22 Mar 2007
In reply to JoeL 90:
> At present I give 2 pounds a month to UNICEF to try and help people who cannot read or write

Excellent stuff! It's really good that you think about things in this way.
 mike123 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:
i ve just had a hour with not much to do other then read ,most of the above. I was going to email Al Evans to say thankyou for presenting an alternative point of view but feel like I should hold my hand up. I m not really sure where I stand on the actual discussion but what I am clear on is that Al presents a largley reasonable case and only gets vaguely personal on a couple of occasions. It worries me when anybody presenting the "opposite opinion " is so vilified and ganged up on, largly with silly personal attacks that have nothing to do with the discussion. I think Al presented his case well and managed to respond in a level way to most of what has been thrown at him, very little of which had any substance. I think alot of the people on here are more intrested in seeing to be "in the gang" than actually putting a valid opinion across. Even if I totally disagree with what you say, keep it up Al.
OP Anonymous 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

for anyone interested

Some information about Paul Skyes who was involved with the funding for this, far from one of his ex school chums

http://www.ayup.co.uk/loud/loud0-1.html

also i've just seen one of the forums old beau's has written a blog entry about Ran aslo

http://judecalverttoulmin.blogspot.com/
 John2 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous: Dear me, anon. She's a belle, not a beau. Moreover, the plural of beau is beaux.
 Michael Ryan 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Deejay)

> also i've just seen one of the forums old beau's has written a blog entry about Ran aslo
>
> http://judecalverttoulmin.blogspot.com/

Specially written for Al Evans. Like it.

OP Anonymous 22 Mar 2007
In reply to John2:

my my, my french is almost as poor as my english, i used beau as in the context of, one of the forums ex loves. Sorry i'll remember and use belle in future.

i was more worried about spelling Paul Sykes incorrectly, wouldn't want a bunch of heavy tykes paying me a visit
In reply to Anonymous:
>
> Some information about Paul Skyes who was involved with the funding for this, far from one of his ex school chums
>
> http://www.ayup.co.uk/loud/loud0-1.html
>
Crumbs, what a scary guy. I wouldn't want to get into an argument with him!
 sutty 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Alison Stockwell:

Crumbs, what a scary guy

you met nidderdale boulderer? they only live a dozen miles from me.

Sykes does have forthright opinions, probably why he is not in parliament. He does not recognise the word diplomacy.
smart guy 22 Mar 2007
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
> (In reply to Al Evans) I don't admire fiennes for his climbing or his polar exploits, however i think the way he uses climbing as medium to raise millions for charity is brilliant. he never comes offer as pretending to be an awsome climber, which he clearly isn't. he raise a damn sight more for charity than you ever have or will.
>
> get of you f*cking high hourse and stop posting shite - as usual. no one cares about the prositutes you sleep with and the fact you post about on public forums about CLIMBING is begars belief.


And then I noticed your age. of course!!
 BrianT 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to BrianT)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Beg to differ there Brian. Mountains are very much alive (even above tree line) and most feel more alive when they are amongst them. Surely one of the main reasons for spending time in the mountains. You can search for spirituality on a mountain but will only find it within yourself.
>
My point exactly mick. You can find spirituality through stamp collecting, whatever lights your candle. Climbing isn't anything special, although some participants sometimes try and make out that it is.
And a mountain is not alive. It harbours life, and in itself, it evolves, ie changes with time, but it's still just a lump in the ground.
In reply to BrianT:
> Climbing isn't anything special, although some participants sometimes try and make out that it is.

As the majority of the non-mountaineering world like to constantly try and impress.

And which is why those of us who do happen to find it special come here in the hope of finding a few kindred spirits!
 Al Evans 26 Mar 2007
In reply to shibboleth:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> After reading all the sh!te and bile you've posted over the past few days I am reminded of the words of an earlier North Face adventurer - Clint Eastwood in The Eiger Sanction - when the word ASSHOLE reverberated all the way down to Kleine Scheddig. Would make a fitting epitaph for you, Al.

Thank you, I enjoyed climbing you by the way, it was a mystical experience.
As Brian T says, climbing and mountains on their own do not a satifactory experience make, who you are with and how you are approaching it is far more important.
 Michael Ryan 26 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
> Climbing isn't anything special, although some participants sometimes try and make out that it is.


Climbing is very special, especially to the majority of those who climb.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's what I was trying to say, but you said it better!
Graham 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> Surely one of the main reasons for spending time in the mountains. You can search for spirituality on a mountain but will only find it within yourself.

Here we go again. Mountaineers are speshul!

No you're not, you're just another tourist.

G
 tlm 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Deejay:

To some people, climing is special.

To some people, climbing is nothing special.

Neither are wrong! And why would you ever want to convince people who have one of these views that the opposite view is correct?
 Michael Ryan 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Graham:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> [...]
>
> Here we go again. Mountaineers are speshul!

Comprehend? It is special to those who do it!!!!!

> No you're not, you're just another tourist.

Yes, of course, mountaineering/climbing is a branch of tourism....just like bird watching, ice-cream eating, mountain biking, kayaking, sightseeing, off-road driving etc

But there are differences not just associated with risk and self-reliance but also our rich literary tradition, our passion, camaraderie and it can take you to very special places of great beauty and isolation.

So yes, not special, yes we are tourists, but there is a little more to it than that and really if I have to explain......

Graham 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

>if I have to explain......

Perhaps I should have started another thread for this bunfight, rather than interupting Al's bile spewing. I seem to remember a corker developing last time I made the remark.



G
 gingerkate 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Graham:
Isn't it obvious that anything that moves a person deeply is special, to them? And that what moves people deeply varies from person to person?

Mr Rain 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Paul Twomey:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
we're looking at a man who suffers from acute vertigo, has missing fingers and starting at the age of 62, has been climbing for what amounts to a couple days a month for a year...

He has heart problems too.

These are the exact reasons why I think he is a prat. Not only that, but none of these other people would be associated with him, if he was an ordinary man on the street.

Like, me, when I get old and 'past it', I would not want to be a drain on the system, so called callous or not. There rea far too many old people dying in hospital beds, I guess at least he is not one of them.

Its best of one of his so called adventures finish him off.

Sorry if I offend anyone, buts that how I honestly feel about this whole thing. Publicity stunt and little else. Its like amany an old foggie pop group well past it making another come back, laughable in one respect but nice in another.
 Michael Ryan 26 Mar 2007
In reply to BrianT:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
> Climbing isn't anything special

Nor space travel. What was it that alpinist Roy Batty said whilst descending the Compressor Route, as the sun set over Cerro Torre?

"I've seen things you people wouldn't believe.
Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion.
I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate.
All those moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain.
Time to die."
 gingerkate 26 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

RB quoting Bladerunner.
 Tufas Mum 28 Mar 2007
In reply to gingerkate:

Why has this jumped back to the top with no new post!!

Ghosts in the system?

Sam

 Ridge 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Tufas Mum:

Someone posts, then rapidly deletes the post, then hey presto, it's back at the top.
 Tufas Mum 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Ridge:

Thats what I guessed I wonder if the mods delete it though or the person that posts something?

or is it someone stirring with a big stick!

Sam
 Ridge 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Tufas Mum:

Hmmmm. A big stirring stick would be my guess...
 Norrie Muir 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Tufas Mum:
> (In reply to Ridge)
>
> Thats what I guessed I wonder if the mods delete it though or the person that posts something?
>
Alan James deleted an offensive anonymous post.

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