UKC

Right then

I'm fed up of being weak, and I want to get better at bouldering this winter - but without suffering hideous finger injuries or worse.

So, since climbing outside seems out of the equation, has anyone got any good training advice or plans, things that made a real difference, handy links etc?

Am particularly interested in any tips on frequency / intensity of sessions, mixing in fingerboarding, 5x5's, campus boards).

(Currently boulder V5/6 outside, so probably slightly harder indoors. Have all normal facilities handy, but no board.).

Cheers!

In reply to Weak Punter:

This topic would be better posted on the Walls and Training Forum.

There are a number of linked aricles on this thread which you should find useful: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The thread on training articles will be posted up as an FAQ/Article in the near future. UK Bouldering has a training forum where you should be able to get some good advice although I think you should be thinking in terms of a 'plan' rather than 'tips'.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Awesome stuff, cheers.

Yes, you're right, a plan is what I'm really after. But as you say in your post there's a lot of bewildering info out there, so am interested in what has worked for others too.

In reply to Weak Punter:

No shortcuts. What works for others will probably not work for you. Rather than borrowing 'tips' get an understading of principles and of your own strengths and weaknesses. Correlate it to what you are seeking to achieve and use whatever training or climbing activity is going to help you achieve your goals.

There is a lot of distilled wisdom in those articles based on personal experience which is more likely to be more useful to you than random anecdotes on a thread.

Training isnt for everyone though.

In reply to Weak Punter: if your of relative strength might want to try doing a handstand up against the wall, and try to do a push up (lower yourself til head touches floor, then push up again), takes ages to do but rewards for me were great =)

In reply to Weak Punter: unless you really know what you are doing, I would avoid a campusboard if you are at all susceptible to finger injuries.