UKC

Conditions were good at Dumbarton Rock tonight and the Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter looked solid on his lead attempt on Rhapsody according to Dave Brown of Hot Aches, makers of the E11 film. Rhapsody the first climb to be given the grade of E11 is Dave Macleod's.......

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=05&year=2008#n44375

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Oooh so close.

Good luck Sonnie.

And excellent live reporting Mick.

In reply to Richard Hall:

Argh the suspense is killing me! E11 is my fav film and must've watched it about 20 times! lol I hope it Rhapsody is actually E11! i'm now on tenterhooks - i want to know if he made it! haha :oD

Oh i just read that properly! Soooo close! fingers crossed!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I really like his style setting off from the ground on 'Requiem Direct Start' (15m, E3 5b) on which he placed no gear. On reaching the ledge he placed a couple of runner in start of Requiem crack and paused for a 10 minute breather. After getting his shoes back on and shedding a jumper he proceeded to flow up the Requiem crack as he'd done on the headpoint of Requiem. Pausing for what seemed like an age at the top of the crack - perhaps 15 minutes - he shook-out and placed his last bits of gear before nervously setting out on the final head wall, commenting that it's a bit different on the lead. Once he got going he look fine on the head wall until he fell from a high point more or less as seen in the picture, taking an 8m-10m fall which actually looked quite tame in comparison to some of Dave Mac's falls from the top.

A few more goes at the top moves on top rope followed... I guess that's what it takes.

But like I say his uber perfect style with regard to gear placements and single push methodology is impressive.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
So it's very likely he'll do it, then--if not on his next attempt, then soon.

Amazing. I wonder what he will think of the grade.

In reply to JLS:

Some photo's can be downloaded (1.8Mb) from here...

http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Sonnie%20Tro...

In reply to Alex Roddie:

I imagine he will think 5.14 odd.

also, only seen the dvd once but are the top moves not the stopper moves? It could be a long time coming yet.

In reply to JLS:

Excellent pics.. T'will be seriously interesting to watch his progress ...

In reply to To_Boldly_Go:

Thanks.
(I still owe you an email...)

can someone set up a live cam please? i'll chip in..

In reply to smithaldo:


That covers a multitude of grades! - i think it unlikely that he'd grade it anything outside this Window!!

In reply to smithaldo:

5.14a, b or c? That's a bit of a range-not a very telling prediction mystic meg!

In reply to Sam L:

Interesting from his blog...

There has been a lot on my mind lately about climbing, most importantly, about climbing Rhapsody, I have made a new discovery which may change the future of the line, but I won't go into that just yet, I'll bring it up again when I feel the time is right and when I feel like I can articulate the situation without complication.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Yes, I read that and wondered what it was all about.

Is there a little trap door into the rock behind which is the holy grail?

Or has he simply found a new sequence or gear placements (the former being more likely I imagine).

In reply to JonC:
All will be revealed in an Easter Egg on JLS's soon-to-be-released DVD of recent events!

In reply to JonC:

I bet Dave MacLeod missed some obvious holds and it's actually VS.

In reply to nz Cragrat: I saw thought. Wonder what he means?

In reply to Alex Roddie: Or someone has worked out that if you go round the side you can walk up?

In reply to Fraser:

>"All will be revealed in an Easter Egg"

The funny thing is he did mention something the other day but it looks like he's had second thoughts going public so I'll keep stoom.

In reply to JLS: He will have to spill the beans eventually.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Intriguing.... probably bolted the thing, and will 'bring it up' when he is back in Canada and can 'articulate the situation' without his testicles being bolted by the Scottish anti bolt mafia....
Sam

In reply to Sam L:

He was talking fairly openly about it at Dumby tonight (Thursday), so I imagine details will be on his blog soon.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

This is like christmas I really want to know what it is. Surely its either to do with the moves/holds or grade. Still pretty open though I grant you.

In reply to telemarker:

Ok that really does make me sound like a sad individual, to much studying I think . . .

In reply to telemarker:
Everyone reading is puzzling over it just the same, so if you're sad we all are!

In reply to gingerkate:

I wish I'd got a mini-USB cable with me from work - mine's no good and I've got some pix to upload of tonight's lead. Aaargh - looks good on the wee screen!

In reply to gingerkate:

phew

In reply to Fraser:

My rubbish photo should appear shortly in my gallery.

Sonnie took his second whipper on Rhapsody tonight (Thursday). The man seemed in a hurry and appeared to be slightly less focused as he sped up the lower pitch bearly stopping at the routes starting ledge. He took a minute or three to fix the gear and remove his outer shirt and was off. Cool as ever on the crack section he was soon on the shake-out, clipping the now stuck rp (stuck from Tuesdays fall onto it) and placing a nut/small hex above it. While spending 7 or 8 minutes shaking out he removed his T-shirt and joked with the band of 20 or so spectators that they should be climbing now because the conditions were great. The head wall follow pretty much the same script as Tuesday ending with fall number two.

He remains very confident and it seemed like only his consideration for the guys in his team prevented him from having another go 15 minutes later as conditions were continually improving as dusk fell.

In reply to JLS:
Thanks for that write up, JLS.

In reply to gingerkate:

More Photo's here...
(2Mb Download)

http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Sonnie%20Tro...

In reply to JLS:
thanks for the pics

In reply to JLS:
What a brilliant set of pics, thank you so much for sharing them!

In reply to JLS:

Is it me, or is he doing a different sequence to the one used by DM?

(haven't seen E11 for a bit though, but don't remember DM heading out left)

In reply to Wingman:

I think he's doing it pretty much the same way as Dave...

In reply to JLS:
Does Requiem finish up the groove to the right - up to where the camerman is in those pics?

In reply to JLS:

Maybe his way of telling everyone to piss off and stop staring at him?

In reply to Chris F:

I was bouldering there on Wednesday - Just me and a couple of bams.
Got spat off some stuff into the glass and shat myself on some highball things with no-one to call the ambulance. Dumby old skool before the media invasion !

In reply to Chris F:

>"Maybe his way of telling everyone to piss off and stop staring at him?"

Na, he seems pretty relax with the whole Dumby ambiance, if perhaps a bit surprised and bemused by the interest of us punters.

In reply to abarro81:

Yup, that's the line of Requiem, finishing just to the left of the camera position. Sonnie's mate Cory Richards is working on Requiem, and judging by last night's efforts, isn't far off getting it nailed.

In reply to JLS:
Do I assume correctly that rain stopped play and/or there was no success on this?

Has Sonnie gone back to Canada? No update on his blog since Tuesday...

Cheers
Mark

In reply to MarkM:

http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2008/05/stay-or-go.html

In reply to JLS: Really? He comes over from Canada for the 2nd time for a go at a 2nd ascent of the worlds allegedly hardest trad route, it's been all over the internet since he arrived, he's also climbed his own route of a similiarly claimed grade. And you're saying he's surprised that folk are interested?

In reply to Sarah R: What does it matter if it turns out to be an E10? Surely it about the route not the grade.

I thought Rhapsody was a pretty average film to be honest.

In reply to MarkM:

Ropes and gear are still in-situ on the crag as of lastnight. He sounded really keen to stay on, on Tuesday night.

I've no way of knowing but I'd guess he's still here and will be on the route at the weekend either in the morning or late in the evenings. It will be far too warm this weekend to do it at other times.

In reply to MarkM:

Checked the weather...

http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/5day.shtml?id=1997

The north west wind on Saturday might favour a go then. On Tuesday he said he was looking for 3 days rest minimum before going again.

So I predict it'll get ticked at 9:25pm tomorrow.

In reply to JLS:

Hope he does it this time, comes ax as being a really nice guy.

In reply to JLS:

Thanks for the feedback. Hope the weather works out and everything comes together for the ascent...

Sonnie mentioned trying the climb in the morning on the advice of Steve McClure on the blog so I'll go for a 9.25 am prediction!

Mark

In reply to MarkM:

That would involve getting out of bed around 6:00am! It seem more likely that John Dunne will climb the route in a tutu and confirm the grade at E11.

In reply to JLS:

More like E12

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What are you trying to say?

saved for posterity or libel interest.

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:

John's reputation for overgrading is well documented.

In reply to TobyA:

Great review Toby, just uploading it.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


I look forward to seeing the new grade of Widdop Wall. When someone actually manages to repeat it. Parthian shot and New Statesman are pretty hard at their given E8 grade as well

In reply to GrahamD:

So do I.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yes like the 9a at Malham that Morefat couldn't touch....

The Ent

In reply to Enty:

Exactly.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: He might overgrade the odd route (im not sure if this is true or not, ill take your word for it) but at least hes out there climbing hard and training hard. Give the man a break. How many E8s and 9s have you done? and how may of his routes have you repeated? (i understand this may backfire as im sure ive seen your name on few malham FAs).

In reply to JoeL 90:

Has anyone climbed E11 yet?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: While im flattered youve sought my opinion on the matter i think maybe Mr Mcleod might be able to answer this better.

I suppose your getting at the fact that Dunne headpointed the routes and thus an onsight grade isn't applicable and so youve done as many E8/9s as him? And are in fact not interested in my opinion over whether Mcleods acsent was some hoe faked or whether adj grades can be applied to headpoints?

In reply to JoeL 90: oops its Macleod isn't it?

In reply to JoeL 90:

Stay that way.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So what has happened to Sonnie? has he been abducted by aliens!

In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

http://hotaches.blogspot.com/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So he's gone?

In reply to Red Rover:
I hope not--it sounds like he was so close.

In reply to Red Rover:

No he's still here, still at it.

After a three day 'rest' he was back at Dumby on Saturday but not at his best. I saw one attempt around 3:45pm just as the sun was striking the face. It was a warm day but light breeze from the Northwest compensated a little. When I left at 6:30pm he said he'd mostly likely have another go, "just for fun", but I don't know if he did or not.

Today, I understand he had one go before rain stopped play. I've lost cost of how many falls he's now taken from the route...

In reply to Alex Roddie:

Nope he's still there, had a lead attempt early evening, seemed to be prompted to have a go as the rain was coming on. Made steady progress up to the rest point, decided to to lose the t-shirt then went for it, was traversing back right above the rest and took the fall nice and cleanly...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Judging by the lack of news - I guess he hasn't managed to tick it off then?

Good attempts Sonnie, by the sounds of it, there's plenty of climbing in Squamish to keep you busy anyway upon your return!

In reply to supafly:

How do you know that?

Maybe there is a news black out.

We don't know yet.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Can you imagine the glasgow lot keeping quiet...

In reply to es:

Be patient.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Never mind Sonnie, what's happened to the UKC roving reporter JLS!!!

In reply to es:


You have to consider this. The second ascent of Rhapsody (whatever grade it turns out to be) will be big news.

There is a film to be made, photographs to sell, copy to run, sponsors to keep happy, and adverts to be sold on the back of that.

Also consider that three of the UK's top climbers have just visited and attempted this route: they have very strong opinions about this route. One came quite close.

E11, even if that grade doesn't actually exist, is a brand with merchandise to sell.

Maybe the owners of the E11 franchise and those who want a piece of thefranchise are keeping mum for a while, protecting their investment.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yeah but its a pretty busy place by all accounts...

or maybe they really have silenced JLS (concrete boots at the bottom of the clyde)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm........!!!!!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I can see the point but surely with the tinternet keeping something like this quiet would be really difficult. I was enjoying all the bloging that was going on because it distracted me from my coursework, now I actually have to do it.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

good job on increasing the hype though Mick!

i await the result, either way, with eager anticipation.

In reply to Bill Davidson:

>"what's happened to the UKC roving reporter JLS!"

Alive and well. Was at Dumby on Tuesday, conditions were warm and slippy, no sign of Sonnie save for his gear in the crack and the Hotaches fixed ropes.

Burnsie was covering the story there last night. He has filed an ambiguous report by text which needs further clarification...

In reply to JLS:

Lol, Thought the Hot Aches Team had sent the 'boys' round! Tell Burnsie tae get the finger oot then!

In reply to JLS:

the text to john was "2 big sends and dumby tonight"

In reply to Burnsie:

>"the text to john was "2 big sends and dumby tonight" "

Well that clears that up... like NOT!

In reply to Burnsie:

b-----d!

In reply to JLS:

Clearly in reference to a trip to the post office with some bulky items, followed by a trip to the crag!

In reply to James Jackson:

His text actually said "2 big sends at dumby tonight". Note - "at" not "and" as he suggested.

I haven't a scooby what it means but would err on the side of it being nothing to do with Sonnie Trotter but I can't be sure.

In reply to JLS:

Does Dumby have a post office?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
is john dunne a "big send"?

In reply to James Jackson:

>"Does Dumby have a post office?"

I haven't noticed one at the actual crag. I did once see a pigeon with a little canister strapped to its leg...

In reply to Dom Whillans:

Apparantly John did quite well......top wall in three sections I was told. Now needs to work on his stamina for the link.

Now that would be some achievement if JD could pull that out the bag.

In reply to JLS: You guys are doing a great job of making this whole thing entertaining. Does seem a little strange that after Sonnie's blogging record about his attempts that it suddenly dried up. Maybe he thought it'd be easier than it's turning out to be? And why is there nothing on James Pearsons blog, he didn't think an attempt on the worlds allegedly hardest trad route was worth commenting on? And a few of the UK's best climbers "didn't like the line", that's hilarious, WTF does that mean?

In reply to Burnsie: Come on, spill the beans.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: i'd much rather john gets the 2nd ascent than sonnie.... no offence whatsoever to him, but JD's been a bit of a star for years IMHO.

In reply to aln:

Yeah, I'd like to hear(see) comments from the actual protagonists.

Sonnie has had a couple of good goes when conditions were pretty good but he was tired from the efforts of preceeding attempts. He'll be better rested now but the conditions haven't been great this lastweek... It maybe that his window of oppertunity has closed, I hope not.

In reply to aln:


I was wondering much the same thing.

In reply to JLS: Maybe he should stay away from those deep-fried Mars bars!

In reply to JLS:

Conditions were tip top last night - there was a really good breeze that made things nice and grippy.

In reply to JLS:
Someone remind me how long Dave worked the route?

In reply to Fraser:

They believe that it is contrived and eliminate in nature similar to Sonnie's comments on his blog.

There are three ways to go apparantly. Also Dave M did mention this at the time.

Other comments include that the fall is not that serious and the climb not as hard as proposed.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
That's fair enough but it doesn't mean it isn't a good climb. Sonnie is arguably one of the worlds best trad climbers and despite the nature of the line he's seen fit to expend a lot of effort on it.

Those comments are spurious. No-one other than Dave MacLeod has taken the fall from the top of Rhapsody on lead. And if someone else leads the route I'll listen to their opinion on wether or not the climb isn't "as hard as proposed".

In reply to aln:

Exactly.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

>"comments include that the fall is not that serious"

Other than Dave Mac and Sonnie (from lower) who else has taken the fall?

From where Sonnie's been taking the fall it hasn't looked too hideous but the fall I saw Macleod take was considerably further and looked very serious to me!

>"the climb not as hard as proposed"

So 6c climbing rather than 7a?

In reply to aln:


The climbing community has a short memory. The same disaparging comments were made about another route in 1995, about the rock itself and about the climber who put it up. Plenty of hard men came and tried it, and over time the comments quietly dried up. And over 10 years later, Akira is still unrepeated as far I know.

In reply to gingerkate:

I think it was 2 years, but don't quote me.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

>"I'm sure there will be lots all over the place in the next few months."

It looks like only McClure and Trotter will repeat the route and have any right to comment publicly. From what I read previously from both, I doubt either will be too negative about the route/grade.

In reply to Fraser:

>"I think it was 2 years, but don't quote me."

And just over a year for Sonnie (so far...)

:¬)

In reply to niggle: That's exactly my point. Maybe Mick shouldn't have made the comments about Rhapsody.

In reply to JLS:

They usually calculate time spent in days spent over the time from first look to completion.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

>"They usually calculate time spent in days spent over the time from first look to completion."

So all those one armers in between the days on the climb don't count!

I heard Sonnie had an exaclt replica of the head wall built on the side of his house and has never missed a day on it since last year...

In reply to JLS: You heard...

In reply to niggle: My apologies Mick, you didn't comment, you reported other peoples comments.

In reply to JLS:

Lol, aye right! And that big buggers still no tellin

In reply to aln:

Phew. Just giving a bit of insider from a reputable source -

In reply to Bill Davidson:

Hot off the press :

Friction was very good at Dumbarton last night. Cory had a good effort on Requiem and only fluffed it on the move onto the shakeout at the top of the crack. He seemed quite pissed off with this. Quite a few boulderers did send some long term projects.

This fact was communicated to Sonnie in the pre burn pep talk. He climbed the requiem crack super smooth, very quick and had a good shakeout before launching into Rhapsody. He managed the up left and right bit no bother and held what seems to be the crux move for him rightwards directly above the gear. He continued up towards the top with shouts from the gathered crowd and it really looked like it was in the bag. Air Traffic Control was called in about 2 or 3 meters from the top. Quite a big winger (I’ve got it on vid so I’ll maybe youtube it if I get time) . Sonnie’s comments after the fall were “I really didn’t think I would fall off from there” or summit like that.

A really good effort and I think Cory was looking like he would have another go on Requiem as I left.

In reply to Burnsie:

>"Friction was very good at Dumbarton last night."

B*gger! You miss one night and...

In reply to Burnsie:

>"Hot off the press :"

http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php

I may need some time to think about what it means...

In reply to JLS:

Twas indeed - so much so that that even bumblies were known to get up stuff last night

In reply to Burnsie:

Forgiven!

In reply to JLS:

That's an excellent article.

In reply to JLS: FFS, Scottish style question. Did the fanny baws climb it or not.

In reply to aln:

See Burnsie's post - "Quite a big winger" means he fell aff (again).

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: That's a lot of airy fairy bullshit.

In reply to Fraser:
Thanks, two years was the time I had in my head too.

May be it'll take a while before it gets a repeat then. Or maybe not, who knows.

At the cutting edge (or the cutting edge in years gone by) what's the longest anyone has worked a route?

In reply to aln:

>"That's a lot of airy fairy bullshit."

I think Sonnie might like to see it as Bullshit/Wisedom.

You'd have thought Dave Macleod's quick repeats of other hard routes might suggest that after E11 he was opperating at a level below his max and provides some weight to his arguement that his E11-7a proposed grade was solid and not in any sort of grey area.

I don't think Sonnie's comments are questioning the grade - seems like he's happy to smile and surf over the opinions of others enjoying the ride as he works the route.

In reply to aln:

Not at all.

In some people's view the develepment of a numerical "E" system has had detrimental effects.

Bring back MXS, XS, HXS, XXS

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I meant the philosophising aspect of the blog, not the grading of the route.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I think we can all be fairly sure that the route is officially VVH.

Very very hard.

In reply to aln:

I thought his analogy of imagery and definitive grading was anything but airy fairy. It's pretty black and white.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: meanwhile back at the ranch Macleod is working on something much harder, and on the mighty Ben as well. Im truely gobsmacked at the effort he is putting into this route. I hope he gets it in the bag.

good luck dave and good luck sonnie, you both deserve success (i wont bother commenting on the 'others')

In reply to Erik B:

Indeed, and nice to see Dave playing the "roving reporter" role himself yesterday

http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/

In reply to martin riddell:

Well I really did think Sonnie would get it.

He certainly put in the effort and I guess it all adds extra kudos to Rhapsody despite what others might say. I hope it will be all the more satisfying for him if/when he do does come back and ticks it.

In reply to JLS:

The rumours that Sonnie Trotter had gone home were slightly exaggerated. Sonnie, Cory and co were at Dumby tonight cranking hard but unsuccessfully against average conditions on what is now something like day 15 on their respective routes.

It's back to should we stay or should we go? It would seem unlikely that another week will offer many days of good conditions but on the other hand one really good day might be enough... It's a tough call.

In reply to JLS:

Intresting stuff from horses mouth...

http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php

In reply to JLS:

Great read

In reply to JLS:

Direquiem does have a certain ring to it!

In reply to JLS:
What a great blog that is. I do hope he stays and tries some more.

In reply to JLS: Trotter.. horses... LOL.

In reply to tommyzero: He is sure to stay and attempt it one more time; afterall, he was THAT close to completing it the last time.. he's a fighter not a quitter

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>

i would feel ripped off to find out i had spent money on a video of an eliminate

In reply to mark s:

Me too. Glad I didn't waste my money...I wonder what his 'E12' will be like

In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog: if Rhapsody is easier than Sonnie's new route, then E12 7b is about right?

In reply to stonechat:

Do you know what we are talking about here?

Sonnie's new route is easier than Rhapsody, where did you hear it was harder? And whats this about E12 7b?

In reply to stonechat:

doubt it,
but it has to be the true line, not the eliminate that rhapsody sounds like.

will rhapsody now be a side note in the the next guide book as a variation on sonnies route

In reply to the last few posters:

Are you guys for real? If so you really are full of $h1t. How dense do you have to be to come up with the utter rubbish you're posting from what has actually been said by the people involved? It's like a WI meeting here - get out, get some climbing of your own done and stop with all this stupid speculation based on blog quotes some of you can't even seem to read properly.

In reply to quadmyre:

I do hope i am not included in that comment, i was trying to say the same as you, in a roundabout kind of way.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

No - your post made sense!

In reply to quadmyre:

Agreed-Some utter Bellends in this thread.......

In reply to Stoney Boy:

Yes!

In reply to Stoney Boy:

Thread? this whole site is filled with opinionated bell-ends who are about as useful as the bottom half of a mermaid

In reply to shortyx:

What? You mean the 75,000+ climbers who visit each UKC each month?

Or those in that group who aren't as clued up as you are?

In any demographic you will get those who are ignorant.

Name calling makes people feel good about themselves - you'll grow out of it.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

it's simple logic, my dear Lincoln- Sonnie's DIrect route is 5.14 something, whereas Dave's route is in the 5.13's

In reply to stonechat:

Err, no.... Sonnies route is 5.14a/8b+ ish, Daves route is 8cish climbing? Its not rocket science!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Sorry..... off topic, just seen other thread, did the quickdraws get claimed? if they're wild country heliums then they are mine... marked with green and yellow electrical tape

ta

In reply to stonechat:

What your forgeting is Daves route is 5.13c'ish into a V10/v11, which, my friend makes it around 8c'ish and a dam sight hard than Sonnies, at 5.14!

Easy ugh.....

In reply to shortyx:

don't know, but they were gone when i went back day after....

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

oh, thought you had picked them up. Saw you on mid ledge spread i think, far too warm that day

In reply to shortyx:

indeed! we left them under consenting....

In reply to Adam Lincoln: can't find the news report right now, but i'm sure 5.13 something was mentioned

In reply to stonechat:

Yes, 5.13 up to the crux....

In reply to stonechat:

8c'ish

And incase you STILL want to argue the toss, and claim not to be wrong.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=198

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Just caught up with Sonnies blog, surely if he is going to stay on he is either extremely confident of cracking it, or just plain obsessed /desperate. If its option one & he “sends it” this week, will it mean he will down grade the route or leave it as is & claim to be a stronger climber by succeeding in such a shorter timeframe………. Punters view only folks, be gentle.

PP.

In reply to peter pan:

If you have been reading Sonnie's blog as you say then I would have thought it was pretty obvious that he's not the sort of person to "claim to be a stronger climber" and that he makes no bones about the fact that he doesn't A: like to get too bogged down by grades or B: understand the UK grading system, so a downgrade would appear unlikely.

However, as I am not Sonnie Trotter I can't actually answer either of your questions. I recommend you read more of his blog. It's a very good read and will help you gain more of an understanding of his attempts to climb this route.

In reply to JLS:

Some rain forecast for Dumby this week however it would seem likely that between the rain there are going to be some good sending oppertunites with decent westerly winds onto the face and good cloud cover, the rock should be dry and cool for short periods at least.

Tonight - a good west wind but with temperatures still high at 17C they may not drop quickly enough before the rain hits later this evening.

Tues - cooler temperatures at 12C and good cloud cover but the wind is forecast a good deal lighter and with rain about things might feel damp.

It will all come down saving strength and skin and being there at just the right moment when the rock is in good nick.

Sorry but I’ am a bit confused, I thought I read that sonnie trotter had repeated Rhapsody. has he?

Cheers

loz

In reply to Anonymous: Yes he is currently doing so.. they aim to complete this 'before' he departs Scotland.

In reply to Anonymous:

>"has he?"

No, not yet, unless he's done it tonight! Otherwise I think he may have mentioned it on his blog today...

http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php

In reply to JLS:

Heh, I always chuckle when I see this phrase. It makes me think of bleach-blond surfer making devil symbols with their hands whilst going "Doooooood, huuuuuuuuwi" or whatever strange noises they emit.