In reply to Stuart the postie:
For (very rare)good conditions I've heard people say IV for the central line and III for the right hand line.
On the day the photo was taken the central icicle hadn't touched down so I started up the right hand line and then traversed across to the central line, it was hard IV I guess.
Shortly afterwards the ice fall above the main pitch fell down. Fortunately I wasn't underneath it at the time, but I certainly learnt a lesson about ice falls and sunshine that day!
There are some other grade II/III ice falls in the area as well