/ NEWS: VIDEO: Toru Nakajima - Grit E9

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UKC News - on 02 Sep 2009
[Toru Nakajima - new E9 on Gritstone, 3 kb]

Visiting junior Toru Nakajima is safely back in Japan (phew!) after his three week blitz of Peak gritstone.

The 15 year old climber racked up an astonishing list of ascents given the warm and wet conditions he found in our typical British summer.

In this exclusive UKC Video, we witness Toru climbing his new E9 Black Out, plus other hard grit test-pieces such as Simba's Pride (E8).

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49092

Alex Mason - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Impressive its almost like 'the new way' to climb grit. Alpine style, fast and light.
Mutl3y - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Awesome thanks for putting up.
ChrisBrooke - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Holy crap! That's some incredible climbing. If like me, you've ever stood under the blank bit of rock that is 'elm street', looked at your guide book and though "a route goes up that!?!", you'll be impressed with that quick, smooth ascent, like it's a wall of jugs. 10/10 :)
Erik B - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: phenomenal! 15?!! well done Naka san!
IainAM on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Inspiring stuff
flaneur - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Toru! Toru! Toru!
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Elm street looks like a piece of piss in that film didn't it, might give it a go if its that easy....

...what did you say E8.... errr might leave it till its a bit colder, better friction.
Kyuzo on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic! Very inspiring.
gethin_allen on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:
That kid is just insane, i feel inadequate.
James Oswald - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Some of the best video footage I have seen on UKC for a while.
Well done Toru!
James
Will Hunt - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

My heart was in my mouth when he was on Life Assurance, did you see where the rope was?!

Top move on his new E9 looks insane.
Yrmenlaf on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant film, fantastic climbing, massive grins!

Y.
220bpm on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

That was bloody good, the young man has a fantastic style.
Mr. K - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Awe inspiring stuff.
MYox - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: That's incredible. Great footage. My dad was astonished. :)
whistler - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Am I the only one who's only getting the ukc logo rather then the video itself?
GuyVG - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: at any age thats amazing but 15. . . .

Thanks for the video and what the hell is he going to do when it's cold then?
Peter Foster - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Absolutely fantastic, such skill and determination, well done and good luck to the future.
Carl Smethurst - on 02 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

I don't know whether to be inspired or to think I may as well just give up now. If climbing extreme grit can be made to look this easy, it makes me realise what poor climbers most of us are. Simply amazing...
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jazzyjackson on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Hats off to Toru

spider like movement, what a natural.
Be interesting to see what hes doing by the time he 20.

Note to self: Just quit
Wee Davie - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent video and even more impressive climbing. Samurai stuff!
Andrew Smith - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Oh my God, what confidence and talent, simply stunning.
Jus - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Love it!!
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Gives the hackneyed term 'spider man' a whole new meaning :)
Jonny2vests - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Will Hunt:

Below him? How do you mean?
jkarran - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive stuff. No wonder he got so much done given the speed he climbs!
jk
pauldr - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: fantastic .. just out of interest what did he do on limestone 8-)
petellis - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to jazzyjackson:

> Be interesting to see what hes doing by the time he 20.

No, the poor lad's going to be gutted when he passes puberty and starts sweating away like the rest of us - it'll put these cheekey summer ascents right out the window :-)

Very impressive stuff though, looks like the crux on black-out might be at the top :-S

Will Hunt - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to jonny2vests:
Beware the rope behind the leg. Inversions aren't just pretty weather phenomenons.
Dave Warburton - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to pauldr: Wee Doris and Bitterfingers - in the rain.
If he'd climbed at Stoney a bit more and done some of the glassy bouldering, he'd have probably flashed most of the grit he did...

Think i saw him soloing Flying Buttress Direct - fairly sure it was him, seeing as it was dark and he did one of those one handed chalk ups.
Jonny2vests - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Will Hunt:

Maybe for a nanosecond, its pretty much between his legs for the fall offable bit.
phizz4 - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: And did you notice he was wearing socks! I thought that it was only me that still did that. Brilliant.
Owen W-G - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to phizz4:

Really classy vid, wasn't expecting that, well done Toru and Pete.
Michael Ryan - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:
> (In reply to phizz4)
>
> Really classy vid, wasn't expecting that, well done Toru and Pete.

Great editing by Dave Gill too.

Sam1991 - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: This lad is actually awsome. Looks like hes really enjoying it as well. Shame there is no footage of gaia or meshuga on this clip, but he makes elm street look like a ladder.
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Sam1991:

Isn't the most incredible thing that he makes everything he does look as if he's toproped and practised every move about 100 times - got it completely wired - when almost everything in that video is i think on sight? There is an extraordinary climbing genius here, surely, in that respect alone.
ChrisBrooke - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Yup. Look at the precision of his foot placements (esp. on Elm Street). Incredible.
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Yes, absolutely, Chris. Mindboggling. He makes it look as if he's done that climb about a thousand times before. His footwork is absolutely astonishing. That earlier route, where he's slipping, in quite a relaxed way, is extraordinary - and yet he's staying on as if his toes have superglue on them.
Keeg - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Whilst it is very impressive I think (but am happy to be corrected) that only the E6 was on-sight. The others were worked, although I get the impression in a quite minimal fashion.
I don't write this to take anything away from the lad, climbing those routes in that style in summer is staggering. Just that at this level stylistic clarity is in my opinion important* and there is a world of difference between onsight and slightly worked. Climbers have previously faced unpleasant accusation due to innacuracy regarding ascents. Be that innacuracy they instigated or that generated by observers comments such as yours.

* Obviously it's not important in a world peace, famine in Africa, social inequality type of way, it's only climbing for f*cks sake. But you get what I mean.
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Toby M - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Right at the start of the video, Toru is standing at the foot of a slab,with a corner groove to the left, what/where is this route?
Rob Cole - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Toby M: Think it's Black Out, the same route he's on at the end!
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> Whilst it is very impressive I think (but am happy to be corrected) that only the E6 was on-sight. The others were worked, although I get the impression in a quite minimal fashion.
> I don't write this to take anything away from the lad, climbing those routes in that style in summer is staggering. Just that at this level stylistic clarity is in my opinion important* and there is a world of difference between onsight and slightly worked. Climbers have previously faced unpleasant accusation due to innacuracy regarding ascents. Be that innacuracy they instigated or that generated by observers comments such as yours.
>
> * Obviously it's not important in a world peace, famine in Africa, social inequality type of way, it's only climbing for f*cks sake. But you get what I mean.

Yes, I get exactly what you mean, which is just why I get as heated as I do, sometimes, with such 'trivial' things as first ascents at Black Rocks and Cratcliffe.
Toby M - on 04 Sep 2009
In reply to Rob Cole: Ahh yes, where is this, Burbage? Presumably there is a route up the slab,to the right?
James_D - on 04 Sep 2009
In reply to Toby M:

"roof route" is up the crack and slab, and "gable route" is up the right hand side.

apparently theres an e4 up the middle but its only a couple of meters wide.
Nic on 04 Sep 2009
In reply to phizz4:

> And did you notice he was wearing socks!

Bl**dy punter! I bet he only took off the big orange helmet for the pics...
Derbyshire Ben on 04 Sep 2009 - host84-93-24-78.plus.net
In reply to UKC News:

Thanks to Dave Gil and Pete for the vid - really good.

As for the climbing. Very impressive... the last move of his new route looks hideous and if he's slapping and shouting given his cool and steady approach on Simba's Pride it must be really horrendous above that horrible landing.
Adders - on 04 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: sweaty palms watching that. amazing. well done toru; looking forward to your next visit!
kareylarey - on 06 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Has this guy ever climbed on grit before?
tobyfk - on 07 Sep 2009
In reply to kareylarey:
> (In reply to UKC News) Has this guy ever climbed on grit before?

No, inferring from this older news report:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48849
The visiting junior is over in the Peak District for two more weeks and told UKClimbing.com "I want to climb Gritstone. It is my dream."

I asked a Japanese climbing friend about Toru. Apparently he's pretty well-known. He first became famous for bouldering V9 when he was still in elementary school (in the Japanese school system that would be aged 10 or younger)






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