/ NEWS: VIDEO: Toru Nakajima - Grit E9
Visiting junior Toru Nakajima is safely back in Japan (phew!) after his three week blitz of Peak gritstone.
The 15 year old climber racked up an astonishing list of ascents given the warm and wet conditions he found in our typical British summer.
In this exclusive UKC Video, we witness Toru climbing his new E9 Black Out, plus other hard grit test-pieces such as Simba's Pride (E8).
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49092
Toru! Toru! Toru!
Elm street looks like a piece of piss in that film didn't it, might give it a go if its that easy....
...what did you say E8.... errr might leave it till its a bit colder, better friction.
Fantastic! Very inspiring.
That kid is just insane, i feel inadequate.
Some of the best video footage I have seen on UKC for a while.
Well done Toru!
My heart was in my mouth when he was on Life Assurance, did you see where the rope was?!
Top move on his new E9 looks insane.
Brilliant film, fantastic climbing, massive grins!
That was bloody good, the young man has a fantastic style.
Am I the only one who's only getting the ukc logo rather then the video itself?
Thanks for the video and what the hell is he going to do when it's cold then?
I don't know whether to be inspired or to think I may as well just give up now. If climbing extreme grit can be made to look this easy, it makes me realise what poor climbers most of us are. Simply amazing...
Hats off to Toru
spider like movement, what a natural.
Be interesting to see what hes doing by the time he 20.
Note to self: Just quit
Excellent video and even more impressive climbing. Samurai stuff!
Gives the hackneyed term 'spider man' a whole new meaning :)
Below him? How do you mean?
Impressive stuff. No wonder he got so much done given the speed he climbs!
No, the poor lad's going to be gutted when he passes puberty and starts sweating away like the rest of us - it'll put these cheekey summer ascents right out the window :-)
Very impressive stuff though, looks like the crux on black-out might be at the top :-S
Beware the rope behind the leg. Inversions aren't just pretty weather phenomenons.
If he'd climbed at Stoney a bit more and done some of the glassy bouldering, he'd have probably flashed most of the grit he did...
Think i saw him soloing Flying Buttress Direct - fairly sure it was him, seeing as it was dark and he did one of those one handed chalk ups.
Maybe for a nanosecond, its pretty much between his legs for the fall offable bit.
Really classy vid, wasn't expecting that, well done Toru and Pete.
> Really classy vid, wasn't expecting that, well done Toru and Pete.
Great editing by Dave Gill too.
Isn't the most incredible thing that he makes everything he does look as if he's toproped and practised every move about 100 times - got it completely wired - when almost everything in that video is i think on sight? There is an extraordinary climbing genius here, surely, in that respect alone.
Yes, absolutely, Chris. Mindboggling. He makes it look as if he's done that climb about a thousand times before. His footwork is absolutely astonishing. That earlier route, where he's slipping, in quite a relaxed way, is extraordinary - and yet he's staying on as if his toes have superglue on them.
Whilst it is very impressive I think (but am happy to be corrected) that only the E6 was on-sight. The others were worked, although I get the impression in a quite minimal fashion.
I don't write this to take anything away from the lad, climbing those routes in that style in summer is staggering. Just that at this level stylistic clarity is in my opinion important* and there is a world of difference between onsight and slightly worked. Climbers have previously faced unpleasant accusation due to innacuracy regarding ascents. Be that innacuracy they instigated or that generated by observers comments such as yours.
* Obviously it's not important in a world peace, famine in Africa, social inequality type of way, it's only climbing for f*cks sake. But you get what I mean.
Right at the start of the video, Toru is standing at the foot of a slab,with a corner groove to the left, what/where is this route?
> Whilst it is very impressive I think (but am happy to be corrected) that only the E6 was on-sight. The others were worked, although I get the impression in a quite minimal fashion.
> I don't write this to take anything away from the lad, climbing those routes in that style in summer is staggering. Just that at this level stylistic clarity is in my opinion important* and there is a world of difference between onsight and slightly worked. Climbers have previously faced unpleasant accusation due to innacuracy regarding ascents. Be that innacuracy they instigated or that generated by observers comments such as yours.
> * Obviously it's not important in a world peace, famine in Africa, social inequality type of way, it's only climbing for f*cks sake. But you get what I mean.
Yes, I get exactly what you mean, which is just why I get as heated as I do, sometimes, with such 'trivial' things as first ascents at Black Rocks and Cratcliffe.
"roof route" is up the crack and slab, and "gable route" is up the right hand side.
apparently theres an e4 up the middle but its only a couple of meters wide.
Bl**dy punter! I bet he only took off the big orange helmet for the pics...
Thanks to Dave Gil and Pete for the vid - really good.
As for the climbing. Very impressive... the last move of his new route looks hideous and if he's slapping and shouting given his cool and steady approach on Simba's Pride it must be really horrendous above that horrible landing.
No, inferring from this older news report:
The visiting junior is over in the Peak District for two more weeks and told UKClimbing.com "I want to climb Gritstone. It is my dream."
I asked a Japanese climbing friend about Toru. Apparently he's pretty well-known. He first became famous for bouldering V9 when he was still in elementary school (in the Japanese school system that would be aged 10 or younger)
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