/ NEWS: PHOTOS: McClure Climbs The Great Arch With 1 Fall
"I'm trying as hard as I can, it could be the crux of an 8b sport route. Then I'm facing an all out slap for what looks like a hold..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55296
Sounds like a brilliant adventure, and a nice bit of writing Steve.
Truly inspiring. I'm so excited for pabay next week and the pictures, writing and climbing has made me even more excited. Thanks. Is the point of aid just in reference to them each having a 'rest'?
OK. I was wondering whether there was another section they used an aid point on. So they both did all the moves? Excellent effort. The pictures of that roof make it look incredible.
Is talking about cubby and Ste - dunno about Lucy's attempt though.
I really liked the article.
this made me chortle though: "There is no time for another go as I'm already watching the sun set over the sea and the wind is whipping over the arch and making me glad to be wearing performance kit."
Why what performance kit would that be - and pray tell where might we purchase some? :)
Awesome, real adventure inspiring stuff.
A quality read!
Glad you enjoyed the adventure folks! Sounds and looks and amazing route!
Who's next for a go?
Indeed. What could the gear be? No wait - on the bottom left photo - I think I can see a sponsor logo - if only I could make it out?.....
just for the record
entire route climbed with one fall, not with a point of aid. Quite a different thing really. Not perfect by a long way, but on routes like this, on a personal level, it doesn't seem to really matter that much.
Well done btw.
Good going Ste, scared the doo dahs out of me reading your article.
I know your roots are in trad but are we gonna see you doing a few more adventure roots now??
> Quite a different thing really.
Great effort by you both, gerrinthere!
I have now changed the wording of the news item, to be more clear.
Hanging on/falling on to a piece of gear is essentially an aid point, which is what I meant, but I have now made it very clear exactly what happened by stating:
"McClure came close to climbing the route on his first go after a brief abseil inspection, but he fell at the final hard bit. He pulled back on and climbed the rest of the route in one go - climbing the route with one fall."
I hope that clears this up.
To see the change you will have to refresh your browser.
Many large routes throughout the world have been climbed with a fall and these are usually recorded as having an 'aid point', with additional notes describing that the aid point was a fall, as I did here, but I certainly didn't set out to confuse anyone.
Great effort on the route and gripping report.
So did Cubby use a direct aid point or did he just rest as well?
I thought a fall and aid were 2 different things? A fall is were you fall, then proceed to free climb the section you fell off. An aid point is were you pull on gear to get through a section you cannot free climb. Quite a distinction IMO.
I was under the impression that they were reported in the way I explained above, but I am quite prepared to be completely wrong. It has been known!
>>> falling on to a piece of gear is essentially an aid point
Er, no it's not - that's just daft. In a purist sense, you haven't climbed the route (I stress without in any way detracting from Steve and Lucy's fantastic achievement), but to call it "with one point of aid" is actively misleading - it suggests Steve couldn't actually do the move, whereas in fact he could, just not all in one push.
As a relative layman in terms of hard climbing at least, I agree that I was confused by calling it one point of aid whereas the general impression was that he fell off and then simply climbed it with "no aid". Which I think is what Steve has confirmed and I can see why he wanted it clarified.
In 'The Face' Cubby takes several falls (the first with some gear popping!) trying to turn the roof. I can't remember if they say they went back the next day and actually aided it, or left it at that. i.e. with a fall, and called it 'with aid', in the way Jack describes. I'll need to go and dust of my VCR later...
Surely the "point point of aid" refered to in the grade is actually for where you need to tug on a sling or wire or stand on a peg to make a move.
Not for falling off and then climbing back up the ropes and trying again.
That's certainly what it means around the moors, not too sure about further affield. I suppose it's either a clean aid ascent or a free ascent with falls. Depends on what floats your boat.
In times gone by a point of aid was any piece you weighted between starting and topping out. Whether it was just a 'rest point' or needed to bypass a move you couldn't actually do wasn't important - what mattered is that you used it!
Confusingly, in the days of yoyoing (70's into 80's) it was common to refer to succeeding on a route with just one (or a small number of) fall(s), but this actually meant lowering to the ground between tries and trying again - albeit with your rope still through your highest gear. So whichever way you describe Steve's adventure it will always sound odd to some.
Sounded like a fantastic try though - good effort Steve.
> In 'The Face' Cubby takes several falls (the first with some gear popping!) trying to turn the roof. I can't remember if they say they went back the next day and actually aided it, or left it at that. i.e. with a fall, and called it 'with aid', in the way Jack describes. I'll need to go and dust of my VCR later...
I'm sure your right. Although I'm sure I remember Cubby pulling round over the crux overlap being part of the filmed sequence? However maybe an element of cinematographic licence there...
WRT to the described original ascent being with a point of aid I have always assumed this meant pulling on gear, not dogging ;)
Just great to see a route like that getting attention.
I'd always assumed
Cubby + Lynn Hill =
Location and weather =
No dice =
7a + aid =
Fancy a pop at that?....
Errr...lets go to Spain...
Got to love those sport climbers ;)
> In times gone by a point of aid was any piece you weighted between starting and topping out. Whether it was just a 'rest point' or needed to bypass a move you couldn't actually do wasn't important - what mattered is that you used it!
"Swiss climber Ueli Steck free-climbed El Cap's Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch"
Is it because he onsighted the rest and it was 41 pitches long that we refer to it as a fall without anywhere suggesting it was a point of aid? Blurry definition isn't it. Well it is now.
Nicely done Steve and Lucy. Happy climbing.
To UKC, this article would be that more informative if authors could provide a topo, or just sketch in the line and key info on a photo. Possibly including short tips on unusual pro placements. That way top rope inspection would be less necessary. This seems to be common practise on many foreign websites.
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