UKC

NEWS: Eiger Direttissima free climbed

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 UKC News 19 Oct 2010
Robert Jasper, 4 kbContinuing their quest to free the great classics of the Eiger, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli have more or less followed the John Harlin Route, the original direttissima on the North Face, at M8- and 7a.

The German-Swiss pair spent three days in late September climbing the route as far as the Spider high on the face.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58400

In reply to UKC News: "more or less followed" means it has not been done. I more or less followed it 30 years ago when I did the Mittelegi Ridge then. I could see some of it on the way up. A non-story.
 Mark Collins 19 Oct 2010
In reply to unclesamsauntibess: I agree, a more factually based headline of "Eiger Direttissima somewhat free climbed" doesn't really grab me some how.
Ackbar 20 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: On the Klettern website the grade is M8-, 7a, E5

http://www.klettern.de/news/bergsteigen-eis/jasper-schaeli-klettern-harlin-...
 jon 20 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

>... Jasper and Schaeli chose to avoid this and take a faster exit via the top section of the classic 1938 Route, reaching the top late in the evening...

So why mention it at all? Their attempt I mean, not the fact that they missed out half the route.
 Lh88 22 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:
I think this is pretty newsworthy - Hard climb on one of the most famous faces in the world. While they didn't top out the direct, it's still a big undertaking and I think well worth reporting.
 Kid Spatula 22 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

UKC at it's best.

People climb something very hard. UKC pours armchair scorn.
 Michael Ryan 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Kid Spatula:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> UKC at it's best.
>
> People climb something very hard. UKC pours armchair scorn.

UKC is a website. It doesn't sit in an armchair and pour scorn.

Individuals, who post on the UKC forums, do that, like the poster above who poured scorn on this ascent and now yourself pouring scorn on him.

Have some chips and whine with your scorn!


 Jon Bracey 22 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Tabloid style reporting from ukc!
A completely incorrect headline 'Eiger Direttissima free climbed'.

I guess 'bottom half of Eiger Direttissima free climbed' does'nt sound so impressive!!
 Michael Ryan 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Jon Bracey:

Not ours Jon: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3976

It is a news link.
 galpinos 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Jon Bracey)
>
> Not ours Jon: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3976
>
> It is a news link.

If you disagree with the headline on the link, you're not obliged to copy it. By using the same headline the assumption is you agree with it.
 Morgan Woods 22 Oct 2010
In reply to unclesamsauntibess: You should read the entire story and then you might change your mind....more or less.
 Franco Cookson 22 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: Misleading, but exceptional effort.
 Morgan Woods 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Morgan Woods:

and a good topo here for those interested:

www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP02/climbing-note-odermatt
 Chris the Tall 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Interesting topo - it shows the Harlin Direct taking a bit of a kink around the flatiron - suprised no one has yet, erm, ironed it out...
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