In reply to biscuit:
Cheers Biscuit.
I can feel your pain (literally). Like you say, it's best to focus on the positives and use the 'downtime' to focus on other areas of your climbing.
Decided to up my sessions back to the usual 3 or 4 this week after 3 weeks of once per week climbing. As of today, my finger / arm has held up and felt ok whilst I was climbing. Very much going to play this by ear though and definitely paying very close attention to any warning signs.
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CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
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ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering (outdoor): Ok at current level (V3 onsight / V5/6 RP)
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
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GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
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STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (2 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (19 DONE) -- injured finger / arm may have put pay to this.
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
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WEEKLY TOTALS
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M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Easy session nursing injured finger/arm. V0-V3 traverses followed by some V0-V1 circuit problems. Head felt good and arm felt ok. Fingers crossed!
F: Still nursing arm but feeling stronger again (touch wood). Some mid-high level intensity continuous traversing and easier up problems. Climbing until pumped, and a little passed, on pretty small edges. Felt good tonight.
S: Planned for an all-dayer at Birchen but rained off
S: Nice afternoon bouldering at Ramshaw and Newstones. Ticked a few problems up to V2. Was nice to get back out on dry rock!
Weight: 140.6 lbs (? lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.1 %
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
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NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
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BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.