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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (214) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=456028&v=1
Andy Farnell - Good work on Mr Nice, it sounded like it went pretty quickly
Daniel Heath - Sea cliff climbing is great isn’t it, I miss it living in Finland
The New NickB - I hope you’re right and the shin splints go away quickly
Mattrm - You’ve got to watch those easy climbs! The year before last I climbed my first 7a and took a ground fall on a VDiff. I wasn’t paying enough attention. I wasn’t very high and landed in a pile of moss but I learnt the lesson not to take easy climbs for granted.
Stone Donkey - Great idea to record the fall practice here.
Andy - A well deserved steady week. I hope the 3 peaks went well.
Chris05 - Thanks for the info on Notts wall. I will visit Nottingham in June and may get in touch nearer the time.
Richardh - Let’s hope things improve when you shake the flu.
Mark Torrance - Taper week
Grubes - Looks like a productive week, I bet the E1 OS will come fairly soon.
Murd - It sounds like a smart idea not pushing the soloing too hard too quickly.
Karen87 - Perhaps the flu will give the elbow some rest? Still flu and a dodgy elbow is pretty unlucky. I hope both get well soon.
Thickhead - It looks like there has been some flu/illness going around fitclub. Good to see you recovered so fast.
Tonyb -
Petestack - Your running looks like it takes you to some beautiful places.
Sonya Mc - You must have some tricky route setters putting the crux in the second to last move. Can you climb through to the end if you take a rest at about half way? Good luck with linking it.
Niels - Five days bouldering in a row sounds tough.
Fimm - Great result in the Kinross Sportive. Well done.
Steve John B - I wish I could train more consistently too. It’s just so hard sometimes to fit it around other commitments.
Leon - Nice one not shouting “Take”.
Jimmy Kay - I hope you can get to Yorkshire soon.
Eagle River - Good luck at Malham or Kilnsey. Hope the finger holds up.
Biscuit - It’s a hard job juggling work and climbing, hopefully you’ll be able to take some time off after all the hard work.
Jeriqo - That sounds like a great result, well within the top quarter.
IainRUK - I’m impressed that you could run AND climb the day after a race. Superb.
Sankey - Font is the perfect place to improve your footwork. I totally agree about the blues in Sabots.
Liam M - “not a textbook definition of a taper”; You’re not wrong there! ☺
Kevster - Nice one on the Dervish. It must be nice to tick such a classic first go.
Viking - I don’t blame you bottling out of the highballs. The little Alpkit mats look quite small when you start to get high.
Miles - Look forward to hearing about your better week.
Goonie - Glad to hear your back is better. Good luck in Devon. Anstey’s Cove?
Repeat posters 31
Absentees
Seankenny
Nexonen
Catt
Humperdink
Curious Yellow
Shauna
Ayuplas
AJM – in France
Agibb
Mike Nolan
JSA
Plexiglass Nick
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (214) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=456028&v=1
Andy Farnell - Good work on Mr Nice, it sounded like it went pretty quickly
Daniel Heath - Sea cliff climbing is great isn’t it, I miss it living in Finland
The New NickB - I hope you’re right and the shin splints go away quickly
Mattrm - You’ve got to watch those easy climbs! The year before last I climbed my first 7a and took a ground fall on a VDiff. I wasn’t paying enough attention. I wasn’t very high and landed in a pile of moss but I learnt the lesson not to take easy climbs for granted.
Stone Donkey - Great idea to record the fall practice here.
Andy - A well deserved steady week. I hope the 3 peaks went well.
Chris05 - Thanks for the info on Notts wall. I will visit Nottingham in June and may get in touch nearer the time.
Richardh - Let’s hope things improve when you shake the flu.
Mark Torrance - Taper week
Grubes - Looks like a productive week, I bet the E1 OS will come fairly soon.
Murd - It sounds like a smart idea not pushing the soloing too hard too quickly.
Karen87 - Perhaps the flu will give the elbow some rest? Still flu and a dodgy elbow is pretty unlucky. I hope both get well soon.
Thickhead - It looks like there has been some flu/illness going around fitclub. Good to see you recovered so fast.
Tonyb -
Petestack - Your running looks like it takes you to some beautiful places.
Sonya Mc - You must have some tricky route setters putting the crux in the second to last move. Can you climb through to the end if you take a rest at about half way? Good luck with linking it.
Niels - Five days bouldering in a row sounds tough.
Fimm - Great result in the Kinross Sportive. Well done.
Steve John B - I wish I could train more consistently too. It’s just so hard sometimes to fit it around other commitments.
Leon - Nice one not shouting “Take”.
Jimmy Kay - I hope you can get to Yorkshire soon.
Eagle River - Good luck at Malham or Kilnsey. Hope the finger holds up.
Biscuit - It’s a hard job juggling work and climbing, hopefully you’ll be able to take some time off after all the hard work.
Jeriqo - That sounds like a great result, well within the top quarter.
IainRUK - I’m impressed that you could run AND climb the day after a race. Superb.
Sankey - Font is the perfect place to improve your footwork. I totally agree about the blues in Sabots.
Liam M - “not a textbook definition of a taper”; You’re not wrong there! ☺
Kevster - Nice one on the Dervish. It must be nice to tick such a classic first go.
Viking - I don’t blame you bottling out of the highballs. The little Alpkit mats look quite small when you start to get high.
Miles - Look forward to hearing about your better week.
Goonie - Glad to hear your back is better. Good luck in Devon. Anstey’s Cove?
Repeat posters 31
Absentees
Seankenny
Nexonen
Catt
Humperdink
Curious Yellow
Shauna
Ayuplas
AJM – in France
Agibb
Mike Nolan
JSA
Plexiglass Nick
In reply to TonyB:
Still not climbing anywhere near as much as I was before Easter but managed to get two sessions in this week (double the average for the previous few weeks).
Wed: Competition wall had been reset so spent the session trying all the new routes (between ~6a-6b+)
Fri: Similar to Wed but with some bouldering too. I'm still nowhere near peak but I'm starting to feel like im improving a little (or at least I'm not getting any worse :P )
Goal: Find someone/some people to start ARCing with for the next few weeks. I want to have maximum endurance for Bulgaria in July.
Still not climbing anywhere near as much as I was before Easter but managed to get two sessions in this week (double the average for the previous few weeks).
Wed: Competition wall had been reset so spent the session trying all the new routes (between ~6a-6b+)
Fri: Similar to Wed but with some bouldering too. I'm still nowhere near peak but I'm starting to feel like im improving a little (or at least I'm not getting any worse :P )
Goal: Find someone/some people to start ARCing with for the next few weeks. I want to have maximum endurance for Bulgaria in July.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony,
Another busy week, first time outdoor bouldering married with the first proper experience on grit, proved interesting but got spanked on just about everything, fingers are still in recovery mode even though I managed to avoid any flappers. Highlighted my need to get acquainted with grit on a regular basis, felt hard, good fun on the whole even if the wind around the roaches was evil on Tuesday. Hope to get outdoors again next week, maybe Shorn cliff, have to see what the weather does and who is available to climb with.
Mon: Rest
Tues: Bouldering at Roaches
Weds: Bouldering at Roaches
Thurs: Trip to the wall, felt pretty done in after 2 days bouldering, new routes on comp wall to have ago at, onsighted 6b+, narrow miss on 6c (soft, more like 6b+), had a look at a few others but was to spanked.
Fri: Rest
Sat: made a few holds for loft, happy to have another rest day, still felt tired.
Sun: Home bouldering, endurance
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
Cheers Tony,
Another busy week, first time outdoor bouldering married with the first proper experience on grit, proved interesting but got spanked on just about everything, fingers are still in recovery mode even though I managed to avoid any flappers. Highlighted my need to get acquainted with grit on a regular basis, felt hard, good fun on the whole even if the wind around the roaches was evil on Tuesday. Hope to get outdoors again next week, maybe Shorn cliff, have to see what the weather does and who is available to climb with.
Mon: Rest
Tues: Bouldering at Roaches
Weds: Bouldering at Roaches
Thurs: Trip to the wall, felt pretty done in after 2 days bouldering, new routes on comp wall to have ago at, onsighted 6b+, narrow miss on 6c (soft, more like 6b+), had a look at a few others but was to spanked.
Fri: Rest
Sat: made a few holds for loft, happy to have another rest day, still felt tired.
Sun: Home bouldering, endurance
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony. The Peaks "went" but not terribly well - struggled with blisters underneath my heels from early on coming off Pen y Ghent which meant I couldn't descend very well at all, and on the way up Whernside my legs realised that this wasn't another steady recovery run and took their revenge. Still, made the cut offs fairly comfortably and will be back to fight another day - just not 13 days after running a marathon!
M: Nice 34m bike ride with lots of hills
T: Nowt
W: 5m run - calves strangely tight
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: 3 peaks - 4:33 which is pretty slow but understandable given the build-up! Saw IainR flying down Pen y Ghent.
S: Lying down a lot
That's it for running events for a bit, so need to get some bike time sorted as I've got a sportive next Saturday (assuming my poor blistered feet are up to it).
M: Nice 34m bike ride with lots of hills
T: Nowt
W: 5m run - calves strangely tight
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: 3 peaks - 4:33 which is pretty slow but understandable given the build-up! Saw IainR flying down Pen y Ghent.
S: Lying down a lot
That's it for running events for a bit, so need to get some bike time sorted as I've got a sportive next Saturday (assuming my poor blistered feet are up to it).
In reply to TonyB:
Pretty OK week. I planned to take it steady after Font. I had four climbing sessions but stopped each one before I got tired, so although I got some good stuff done none of the sessions felt too strenuous.
Tue - Outdoor bouldering at Hakunila (tried Hanoi Rocks 7A+ but didn't get close)
Fri - Rope climbing at Backnas (tried Molotovin Cocktail 7b+ a project from last year. I didn't get close. I remember the sequence, but it's hard and sharp. I think I need a new tactic because working the moves wore out the skin on my finger tips.
Sat - Social climbing session at the wall. Went really well, 6a OS, 6c OS, 7a OS and then 3x laps on ungraded route 6a/6b? I had to work hard on the 7a but everything else felt pretty easy.
Sun - Indoor bouldering I set up a circuit up Font 6A, down Font 5, up Font 6A, down Font 5. I did it 6 times with 5 mins rest. The sixth time I was quite pumped but probably could have managed one or two more reps if I hadn't promised my wife I'd be home early!
I feel like I'm climbing well, but at the moment I'm not able to translate this to climbing hard outside.
Aims before end of May (performance bias towards bouldering; training bias towards short 20-30 move circuits)
Outdoor bouldering every week and preferably two sessions. Tick two 7A problems in each of the following styles. Slab 0/2, Sloper 1/2, crimps 0/2, overhang 0/2, dyno 0/2, vertical 0/2.
Continue work towards 7c pyramid favoring short bouldery projects.
Indoor 20-30 move circuits. 8 laps with 4 mins rest of existing circuit.
Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
Pretty OK week. I planned to take it steady after Font. I had four climbing sessions but stopped each one before I got tired, so although I got some good stuff done none of the sessions felt too strenuous.
Tue - Outdoor bouldering at Hakunila (tried Hanoi Rocks 7A+ but didn't get close)
Fri - Rope climbing at Backnas (tried Molotovin Cocktail 7b+ a project from last year. I didn't get close. I remember the sequence, but it's hard and sharp. I think I need a new tactic because working the moves wore out the skin on my finger tips.
Sat - Social climbing session at the wall. Went really well, 6a OS, 6c OS, 7a OS and then 3x laps on ungraded route 6a/6b? I had to work hard on the 7a but everything else felt pretty easy.
Sun - Indoor bouldering I set up a circuit up Font 6A, down Font 5, up Font 6A, down Font 5. I did it 6 times with 5 mins rest. The sixth time I was quite pumped but probably could have managed one or two more reps if I hadn't promised my wife I'd be home early!
I feel like I'm climbing well, but at the moment I'm not able to translate this to climbing hard outside.
Aims before end of May (performance bias towards bouldering; training bias towards short 20-30 move circuits)
Outdoor bouldering every week and preferably two sessions. Tick two 7A problems in each of the following styles. Slab 0/2, Sloper 1/2, crimps 0/2, overhang 0/2, dyno 0/2, vertical 0/2.
Continue work towards 7c pyramid favoring short bouldery projects.
Indoor 20-30 move circuits. 8 laps with 4 mins rest of existing circuit.
Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
In reply to TonyB:
Not likely been climbing like shit last couple of days. I onsighted E1 last year but was very soft touch.
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above. Thinking gogarth wen slab looks good.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: rest (I think might of gone climbing)
T: Holmfirsth session. feeling pretty feeble and tired.
F: Rest. Walked back from the supermarket
S: Stanage Trad. Lead 1x VS 2nd 2xVS. Took a lead fall on a VS 4c (WTF?) not my style and spat of nice fall.
Soloed a VS 5a tried to solo (onsight) an E1 but could not commit to the crux due to a pains in my toe.
Repeated some problems on the pebble tried some moves on the green traverse. took a decent fall off of the pebble no mat. My knee completely cramped up walking home from being dropped off.
S: Den Lane Trad. Lead 2xVs rpts and second 1xVD (knackered).
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Climbing again tomorrow hopefully in the peak. May throw myself at an E1 depending on the style. Will be with some better climbers than today. hopefully my head is still there after the fall.
> Grubes - Looks like a productive week, I bet the E1 OS will come fairly soon.
Thanks TonyNot likely been climbing like shit last couple of days. I onsighted E1 last year but was very soft touch.
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above. Thinking gogarth wen slab looks good.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: rest (I think might of gone climbing)
T: Holmfirsth session. feeling pretty feeble and tired.
F: Rest. Walked back from the supermarket
S: Stanage Trad. Lead 1x VS 2nd 2xVS. Took a lead fall on a VS 4c (WTF?) not my style and spat of nice fall.
Soloed a VS 5a tried to solo (onsight) an E1 but could not commit to the crux due to a pains in my toe.
Repeated some problems on the pebble tried some moves on the green traverse. took a decent fall off of the pebble no mat. My knee completely cramped up walking home from being dropped off.
S: Den Lane Trad. Lead 2xVs rpts and second 1xVD (knackered).
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Climbing again tomorrow hopefully in the peak. May throw myself at an E1 depending on the style. Will be with some better climbers than today. hopefully my head is still there after the fall.
In reply to TonyB:
Thank you.
Bit of a funny week as I was recovering from the Sportive and then had family visiting at the weekend and was resting up for a big training day tomorrow...
M: nothing
Tu: 2 hour run, just under 20km at 9:1 run:walk
W: club swim one hour
Th: went out on the TT bike - 40 km in just under two hours. Confidence and comfort on the bike need to be sorted quickly...
F: ran 11.5 km in 59:55. Walked up Tinto hill with my parents and sister.
Sa: nothing (apart from climbing Arthur's Seat with my sister - she studied in Edinburgh and had never been up there in the 3 years she lived here. Students...)
Su: nothing
Thank you.
Bit of a funny week as I was recovering from the Sportive and then had family visiting at the weekend and was resting up for a big training day tomorrow...
M: nothing
Tu: 2 hour run, just under 20km at 9:1 run:walk
W: club swim one hour
Th: went out on the TT bike - 40 km in just under two hours. Confidence and comfort on the bike need to be sorted quickly...
F: ran 11.5 km in 59:55. Walked up Tinto hill with my parents and sister.
Sa: nothing (apart from climbing Arthur's Seat with my sister - she studied in Edinburgh and had never been up there in the 3 years she lived here. Students...)
Su: nothing
In reply to TonyB:
Week in US on a conference, managed to do a little exercise as well.
M: 3 miles treadmill
T: 3 miles treadmill
W: 3 miles treadmill
T: Biked 25 miles (over golden gate bridge and out to Muirwoods)
F:
S:
S:
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours)
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Week in US on a conference, managed to do a little exercise as well.
M: 3 miles treadmill
T: 3 miles treadmill
W: 3 miles treadmill
T: Biked 25 miles (over golden gate bridge and out to Muirwoods)
F:
S:
S:
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours)
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to TonyB:
Feeling much better from the flu, but elbow is still a bit tweaky so strapping it up when I climb. Not feeling back to full speed still because of the flu, but I hope that will change this coming week!
Off to Dorset in 8 days time, need to be ready for The Cuttings in Portland!
M - rest
T - rest
W - Stone Farm (southern sandstone) - loved it! Played on a range of problems, my best was a 5a (V0/V1)
T - rest
F - Reading Wall bouldering - feeling stiff and tired, repeated previous problems (V0/V4)
S - rest
S- rest
Feeling much better from the flu, but elbow is still a bit tweaky so strapping it up when I climb. Not feeling back to full speed still because of the flu, but I hope that will change this coming week!
Off to Dorset in 8 days time, need to be ready for The Cuttings in Portland!
M - rest
T - rest
W - Stone Farm (southern sandstone) - loved it! Played on a range of problems, my best was a 5a (V0/V1)
T - rest
F - Reading Wall bouldering - feeling stiff and tired, repeated previous problems (V0/V4)
S - rest
S- rest
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again Tony.
A pretty low key week due to my injury worries, but despite the low mileage pretty good, because I feel like I am in recovery.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:02, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 4 miles very gentle.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 9 miles trail not too hard.
Friday - Climbing at Wilton 3, HS and VS.
Saturday - Rest.
Sunday - Rest.
A lazy week really, but that was what was needed. Lots more miles next week.
Thanks again Tony.
A pretty low key week due to my injury worries, but despite the low mileage pretty good, because I feel like I am in recovery.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:02, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 4 miles very gentle.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 9 miles trail not too hard.
Friday - Climbing at Wilton 3, HS and VS.
Saturday - Rest.
Sunday - Rest.
A lazy week really, but that was what was needed. Lots more miles next week.
In reply to TonyB: Cheees, great week away.
M: 22 miles, 1500 m ascent, pm: climbed 3 routs
t: 7 mile trail run
w: stretching
t: 5 mile trail run
f: climbing, seconded S and HVS, led VS
s: 3 peaks race. 3:16, 13th, qualified for world mountain running champs in Slovenia, first in welsh trials. Probably best ever race, spookily good.
S: climbing giggleswick.
M: 22 miles, 1500 m ascent, pm: climbed 3 routs
t: 7 mile trail run
w: stretching
t: 5 mile trail run
f: climbing, seconded S and HVS, led VS
s: 3 peaks race. 3:16, 13th, qualified for world mountain running champs in Slovenia, first in welsh trials. Probably best ever race, spookily good.
S: climbing giggleswick.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
Tues: It was raining so went indoors for some well overdue bouldering. Finger felt OK, did most things up to V5 first go and got the 7b circuit first try (although I thought it was a bit over-graded).
Friday: Trad puntering. Didn't push things but again felt confident at E1.
Off to Woodwell tomorrow for the first time which will no doubt show up how weak I am but despite that I'm proper excited. Glad to be tentatively pulling hard again!
Thanks Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
Tues: It was raining so went indoors for some well overdue bouldering. Finger felt OK, did most things up to V5 first go and got the 7b circuit first try (although I thought it was a bit over-graded).
Friday: Trad puntering. Didn't push things but again felt confident at E1.
Off to Woodwell tomorrow for the first time which will no doubt show up how weak I am but despite that I'm proper excited. Glad to be tentatively pulling hard again!
In reply to TonyB:
STG
Lead all the 6a & 6a+'s at wall cleanly
Lots more Fall practice (indoors)
Get some more bouldering done
MTG
Get on as many VS's outdoors as possible - not just grit
Find someone to drag me up some HVS & E1 routes
Some Portland 6a's, 6a+'s.
Had let the practice falls slip, but now back on the agenda. 4 indoors this week. Think I should move to beginning of session rather than end to get most benefit.
Got out to Stanage - first time on grit this year. Jumped straight onto a VS and led three more - so MTG are looking good (didn't lead better than HS last 2 yrs) so v. happy!
Heather Wall VS 4c
Via Media VS 4c
Tinker's Crack VS 4c
Central Trinity VS 4c
STG
Lead all the 6a & 6a+'s at wall cleanly
Lots more Fall practice (indoors)
Get some more bouldering done
MTG
Get on as many VS's outdoors as possible - not just grit
Find someone to drag me up some HVS & E1 routes
Some Portland 6a's, 6a+'s.
Had let the practice falls slip, but now back on the agenda. 4 indoors this week. Think I should move to beginning of session rather than end to get most benefit.
Got out to Stanage - first time on grit this year. Jumped straight onto a VS and led three more - so MTG are looking good (didn't lead better than HS last 2 yrs) so v. happy!
Heather Wall VS 4c
Via Media VS 4c
Tinker's Crack VS 4c
Central Trinity VS 4c
In reply to IainRUK: Really well done Iain - you looked to be flying down PyG (mind you anybody would compared to me with my hideously blistered feet!).
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony.
M - rest - calf strain
T - rest - calf strain
W - rest - calf strain
T - rest
F - rest
S - 4.5 miles/400' run. mild hill reps.
S - 2 miles/100' run
plus daily heel drops.
M - rest - calf strain
T - rest - calf strain
W - rest - calf strain
T - rest
F - rest
S - 4.5 miles/400' run. mild hill reps.
S - 2 miles/100' run
plus daily heel drops.
In reply to IainRUK: Great stuff at Y3P, good on you.
In reply to TonyB:
Tony, thanks for doing the stats. I think you're right about taking 'easy' trad climbs for granted. Took about a 3m fall and only have a bruise on my heel, hip and a nice cut on my ankle. So could have gone a lot worse I reckon.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lb
M - 7k walk 311m asc
T - 14k walk 800m asc
W - 15k walk 1100m asc - 1 hours bouldering at Carrock Fell
T - 16k walk 1400m asc
F - Rest
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
S - Rest
Had a nice weeks hillwalking and Wainwright bashing with the missus. For a change we stayed up near Keswick in the Castlerigg farm campsite. It was great sitting there in the sun, after a good walk, with a beer, a copy of Alpinist and a view of Skiddaw and Blencathra. Managed to get some bouldering at Carrock fell in. Never climbed on Grabo before, it was amazing to climb on. Off to Symond's Yat tomorrow where I'll hopefully knock off a few more HSes to I can get that goal done. I'm working on a training plan to actually make some proper progress with things over the next few months. Once the plan is sorted, I'll maybe post it up here. I'm also part way through The Rock Warrior's Way, which is a great book, I reckon it'll be very useful.
Tony, thanks for doing the stats. I think you're right about taking 'easy' trad climbs for granted. Took about a 3m fall and only have a bruise on my heel, hip and a nice cut on my ankle. So could have gone a lot worse I reckon.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lb
M - 7k walk 311m asc
T - 14k walk 800m asc
W - 15k walk 1100m asc - 1 hours bouldering at Carrock Fell
T - 16k walk 1400m asc
F - Rest
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
S - Rest
Had a nice weeks hillwalking and Wainwright bashing with the missus. For a change we stayed up near Keswick in the Castlerigg farm campsite. It was great sitting there in the sun, after a good walk, with a beer, a copy of Alpinist and a view of Skiddaw and Blencathra. Managed to get some bouldering at Carrock fell in. Never climbed on Grabo before, it was amazing to climb on. Off to Symond's Yat tomorrow where I'll hopefully knock off a few more HSes to I can get that goal done. I'm working on a training plan to actually make some proper progress with things over the next few months. Once the plan is sorted, I'll maybe post it up here. I'm also part way through The Rock Warrior's Way, which is a great book, I reckon it'll be very useful.
In reply to IainRUK:
Nice one, good work, must be all that training in Mallorca!
Been enjoying the good weather and extra holiday by going to the Lakes. Managed to get a good run on Friday while the Mrs watched the Royal Nuptials. Low mileage over Saturday/Sunday but probably rest doing no harm.
M: 10mile fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy 800m ascent.
T: 4.5mile trail/beach run Conwy.
W: 4.5mile trail/beach run Conwy.
T: 5mile fell run Hellvellyn 850m ascent.
F: 11.5mile fell run Fairfield Round from Ambleside 1000m+ ascent.
S: 6.5mile fell run Wansfell Pike from Ambleside/Troutbeck 400m ascent.
S: AM 3mile walk in Wigan PM 3.5mile trail run Bryneuryn 200m ascent.
> s: 3 peaks race. 3:16, 13th, qualified for world mountain running champs in Slovenia, first in welsh trials. Probably best ever race, spookily good.
Nice one, good work, must be all that training in Mallorca!
Been enjoying the good weather and extra holiday by going to the Lakes. Managed to get a good run on Friday while the Mrs watched the Royal Nuptials. Low mileage over Saturday/Sunday but probably rest doing no harm.
M: 10mile fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy 800m ascent.
T: 4.5mile trail/beach run Conwy.
W: 4.5mile trail/beach run Conwy.
T: 5mile fell run Hellvellyn 850m ascent.
F: 11.5mile fell run Fairfield Round from Ambleside 1000m+ ascent.
S: 6.5mile fell run Wansfell Pike from Ambleside/Troutbeck 400m ascent.
S: AM 3mile walk in Wigan PM 3.5mile trail run Bryneuryn 200m ascent.
In reply to TonyB:
I was absent last week, but, managed 28 routes last Saturday at Stanage, this Saturday climbed 36 routes. All 64 were onsight.
STG - 100 routes in the day
MTG - Sort out m aches and pains by way of physio and Glucosamines.
LTG - work towards 200/300 routes in a day, but this will more than likely not happen next year(which I had hoped for) due to the arrival of a baby in November.
I was absent last week, but, managed 28 routes last Saturday at Stanage, this Saturday climbed 36 routes. All 64 were onsight.
STG - 100 routes in the day
MTG - Sort out m aches and pains by way of physio and Glucosamines.
LTG - work towards 200/300 routes in a day, but this will more than likely not happen next year(which I had hoped for) due to the arrival of a baby in November.
In reply to Thickhead: Cheers (just emailed you all re Thursday run - at airport now), and thanks Andy. Well done for keeping going, that run off Inglebrough was really tough yesterday. Passed Jebby and the current 3p's record holder running off there, not many times that'll happen in a running career..think it's time to retire..Good on them for keeping going though, great attitude.
In reply to TonyB: Cheers - was away last week so can bore everyone with two weeks worth today! Now sorted out my racing so have new goals:
Goals
May - Sub 33 min 10K, road 5K PB
June/July - Sub 15:30 track 5000, 5M PB
August - get into BMC meet, sub 9min 3K
Sept-Nov - 10K PB, 10M or 1/2Marathon?
Week 214
M: 7M steady
Tu: lunch - physio exercises, pm - 7M steady felt flat, foam roller
W: lunch - physio exercises, pm - 10 x 2min off 60secs jog 2M warm up & cool down. 9/10M Total
Th: am - 32mins easy, pm 32mins on X-Trainer, physio exercises
F: Rest
Sa: pm - Session on grass track: 1M (5min), 2 x 1K (off 3min), 2 x 400 (off 2min), 2 x 200 (off 1 min), 4 x 150 (off 45sec), 2 x 60m (off 10sec). Very hot! Times were 5:05, 3:07, 3:09, 71, 70, 33, 33, 22, 22, 23, 23 didn't time the 60m efforts. Felt hard running shorter efforts for first time this year.
Su: 1:35:05 steady off road 14M
Total ~ 49M
Ok week - felt pretty flat for most of it but was a cut back week after a lot of miles previously
Week 215
M: pm - 50mins steady/hard by the sea - v. windy!
Tu: pm 40mins steady offroad felt flat - nice scenery though
W: Rest
Th: am - 2hr walk in new forest pm - 2 x ~4.5Km loop off 2min jog times were 15:05 and 14:56, v. windy. ~10M total
F: 1:45:15 Steady in the forest although had to stop a bit for map reading! ~14M
Sa: am - 30mins steady with gf, her first time back running after the marathon, was great to run with her again.
Su: am - 6 x 3mins off 90 secs jog, v.windy! ~8M total. BIt of stretching, pm - 35mins steady felt good!
Total ~54M
Felt better this week - still a bit unsure about how fit I am but will find out this week as am doing a 10K race. Need the wind to die down!
Goals
May - Sub 33 min 10K, road 5K PB
June/July - Sub 15:30 track 5000, 5M PB
August - get into BMC meet, sub 9min 3K
Sept-Nov - 10K PB, 10M or 1/2Marathon?
Week 214
M: 7M steady
Tu: lunch - physio exercises, pm - 7M steady felt flat, foam roller
W: lunch - physio exercises, pm - 10 x 2min off 60secs jog 2M warm up & cool down. 9/10M Total
Th: am - 32mins easy, pm 32mins on X-Trainer, physio exercises
F: Rest
Sa: pm - Session on grass track: 1M (5min), 2 x 1K (off 3min), 2 x 400 (off 2min), 2 x 200 (off 1 min), 4 x 150 (off 45sec), 2 x 60m (off 10sec). Very hot! Times were 5:05, 3:07, 3:09, 71, 70, 33, 33, 22, 22, 23, 23 didn't time the 60m efforts. Felt hard running shorter efforts for first time this year.
Su: 1:35:05 steady off road 14M
Total ~ 49M
Ok week - felt pretty flat for most of it but was a cut back week after a lot of miles previously
Week 215
M: pm - 50mins steady/hard by the sea - v. windy!
Tu: pm 40mins steady offroad felt flat - nice scenery though
W: Rest
Th: am - 2hr walk in new forest pm - 2 x ~4.5Km loop off 2min jog times were 15:05 and 14:56, v. windy. ~10M total
F: 1:45:15 Steady in the forest although had to stop a bit for map reading! ~14M
Sa: am - 30mins steady with gf, her first time back running after the marathon, was great to run with her again.
Su: am - 6 x 3mins off 90 secs jog, v.windy! ~8M total. BIt of stretching, pm - 35mins steady felt good!
Total ~54M
Felt better this week - still a bit unsure about how fit I am but will find out this week as am doing a 10K race. Need the wind to die down!
In reply to IainRUK: Well done - congratulations!
In reply to TonyB:
cheers Tony,
skipped last saturday's session, but OK for the monday
S: nowt, family day
M: Trow Gill, took it easy on the bicep to see if OK, kept it below 7a, and no reaction, re-did Distant Lands, 7a, clean, which was encouraging
T:
W:
T:
Fri: Malham, was a kilnsey cold, malham hot toss-up, went for malham, got back on High Life, 7b+, good attempts, but it's really painful on the fingers, need to keep plugging away to put this one to bed.
S: family
Sun: Foredale, windy, but not too bad. two 7a redpoints - both of which I'd come off on wet holds on last year. Shot in the Dark, 7a onsight, 30m, great climbing. set off up another route by mistake, fell off when hold snapped, but will try again. A good day.
battered today, but glad arm, finger and generally all sound so will press on!
cheers Tony,
skipped last saturday's session, but OK for the monday
S: nowt, family day
M: Trow Gill, took it easy on the bicep to see if OK, kept it below 7a, and no reaction, re-did Distant Lands, 7a, clean, which was encouraging
T:
W:
T:
Fri: Malham, was a kilnsey cold, malham hot toss-up, went for malham, got back on High Life, 7b+, good attempts, but it's really painful on the fingers, need to keep plugging away to put this one to bed.
S: family
Sun: Foredale, windy, but not too bad. two 7a redpoints - both of which I'd come off on wet holds on last year. Shot in the Dark, 7a onsight, 30m, great climbing. set off up another route by mistake, fell off when hold snapped, but will try again. A good day.
battered today, but glad arm, finger and generally all sound so will press on!
Cheers
Mon - nothing
Tue - 6 miles hilly trail run
Wed - Session; 6*800m, didn't feel great havent done this for a while so give it time
Thu - 10 miles hilly trail run
Fri - 10 miles fell run 2300ft
Sat-Sun - folks up so not much but eating and drinking but did go for a nice walk up Siabod
Mon - nothing
Tue - 6 miles hilly trail run
Wed - Session; 6*800m, didn't feel great havent done this for a while so give it time
Thu - 10 miles hilly trail run
Fri - 10 miles fell run 2300ft
Sat-Sun - folks up so not much but eating and drinking but did go for a nice walk up Siabod
In reply to IainRUK: Good stuff Iain. I briefly spoke to Sarah at Ribblehead ( I guessed it was her from an Eyeri top and Australian accent) and she had suggested you'd been rather up for a fast one.
I had an awful one. A couple of short runs mid week should have left me good for it, and the morning before I felt fairly bouncy. I took it steady up PyG to let my legs warm up, but instead of feeling more relaxed and easy from Whitber hill, I just slowed and felt tight and jerky on the flat section. For reasons unknown I had nothing to give, and was going backward very quickly. By the time I hit the road I'd mentally cracked and my pace was worse than on easy runs despite higher effort. I just couldn't face the other two climbs as I was feeling, so retired at Ribblehead.
It was somewhat frustrating, as I think training went well and I'd had a couple of races that had given hope I may be doing reasonably. I do think I made the right call though as I spent the late afternoon shivering as was, and fell asleep for over 12 hours in the early evening, so there may have been something underlying it.
There are a few weaknesses it did otherwise highlight though, and something to work on, and made me determined to train harder - I may struggle to control when I have bad days, but at least it may mean when I have good days they're more likely to be very good ones. I also threatened to put H in complete charge of my race entry and only tell me about them a couple of days before as I seem to have no luck with 'target' races!
I had an awful one. A couple of short runs mid week should have left me good for it, and the morning before I felt fairly bouncy. I took it steady up PyG to let my legs warm up, but instead of feeling more relaxed and easy from Whitber hill, I just slowed and felt tight and jerky on the flat section. For reasons unknown I had nothing to give, and was going backward very quickly. By the time I hit the road I'd mentally cracked and my pace was worse than on easy runs despite higher effort. I just couldn't face the other two climbs as I was feeling, so retired at Ribblehead.
It was somewhat frustrating, as I think training went well and I'd had a couple of races that had given hope I may be doing reasonably. I do think I made the right call though as I spent the late afternoon shivering as was, and fell asleep for over 12 hours in the early evening, so there may have been something underlying it.
There are a few weaknesses it did otherwise highlight though, and something to work on, and made me determined to train harder - I may struggle to control when I have bad days, but at least it may mean when I have good days they're more likely to be very good ones. I also threatened to put H in complete charge of my race entry and only tell me about them a couple of days before as I seem to have no luck with 'target' races!
In reply to TonyB:
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (done)
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 12.00
Focus: Anerobic 1/2
Mon: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),1(4),2(4),1(4). Sport @ Trevor Rocks (failed on 6a+)
Tue: Chest & Back(167). Core(235).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),4(4),3(4),3(4).
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Core(302).
Sun: Trad in wye valley (max e1).
Reset goals for the year. Don't think hard e3 is that likely, breaking into e3 might just happen.
4x4 training going well.
Failed to commit on a 6a+ on Monday, poor focus, was more interested in the fact that the rock looked blank after the crux rather than looking for the line.
Great to get a couple of e1s in on Sunday, my first on limestone.
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (2 sets)
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (done)
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 12.00
Focus: Anerobic 1/2
Mon: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),1(4),2(4),1(4). Sport @ Trevor Rocks (failed on 6a+)
Tue: Chest & Back(167). Core(235).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),4(4),3(4),3(4).
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Core(302).
Sun: Trad in wye valley (max e1).
Reset goals for the year. Don't think hard e3 is that likely, breaking into e3 might just happen.
4x4 training going well.
Failed to commit on a 6a+ on Monday, poor focus, was more interested in the fact that the rock looked blank after the crux rather than looking for the line.
Great to get a couple of e1s in on Sunday, my first on limestone.
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (2 sets)
In reply to TonyB:
Yes, well done Iain
Taper week 2 of 3.
M -
T - 3 miles road runish with obtuse child
W - 8.5 miles run road and towpath, steady
T - 4.5 miles run road, plus stretches and strides
F -
S - 4ish miles off road run/walk with other child, Gower, minor hill, beautiful. Oh, and some gentle climbing.
S - 9 miles steady off road run, Gower, minor hills, 8:06 m/m
Marathon next Sunday. Tapering is psychologically interesting: I'm not sure I'm that bothered about actually running the thing now.
Sunday felt pleasantly strong, though, which suggests at least some transfer from road to hill.
Yes, well done Iain
Taper week 2 of 3.
M -
T - 3 miles road runish with obtuse child
W - 8.5 miles run road and towpath, steady
T - 4.5 miles run road, plus stretches and strides
F -
S - 4ish miles off road run/walk with other child, Gower, minor hill, beautiful. Oh, and some gentle climbing.
S - 9 miles steady off road run, Gower, minor hills, 8:06 m/m
Marathon next Sunday. Tapering is psychologically interesting: I'm not sure I'm that bothered about actually running the thing now.
Sunday felt pleasantly strong, though, which suggests at least some transfer from road to hill.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony!
I've been in France for ten days so have missed a couple of weeks.
Week 214
M - Thrs: Various work and life stuff.
F: Train to Aix-en-Provence, drive to our place nr Verdon.
S: Raining. Windy. Gorge looked very scary.
S: A couple of easy slab routes in Verdon to get systems sorted, then the rain came in. Went to Chateauvert, did a 6a, 6b then a nails 6c which had some desperate moves. Would be solid 7a at Portland I think.
Week 215
M: Les Haus Vernis, nr Verdon. Did a 6a, a 6b w/ 1 fall, got on a 6c, did crux then fell and then a huge thunderstorm started. Got wet through.
T: Chateauvert -did a F6a, tried a 6b and then a 6b+, but it started raining in Biblical amounts, expected frogs to start falling from the sky.
W: Went to a crag near Toulon, did a 5, 6a+ which was nails, 6b which was superb, tried a 6c which was desperate, I couldn't get through the crux section which felt like solid English 6b. Great climbing tho and finally sunny!
T: Drove to Font.
F: Bouldering at 95.2. Climbed a super 5+ arete and plenty of other lovely problems. A good session.
S: Bouldering at Franchard Isatis and Cuisinere. Did an excellent arete on the white circuit at Cuisinere, one of the more memorable problems in the Forest.
S: Battered. Pootled around at Apremont in the heat but came home.
So, a really mixed trip away. I've been to the south of France five times and this was the worst weather I've ever had. We had to totally sack off climbing in the Gorge as huge thunderstorms rolled in every day - very disapointing. The sports climbing we did was pretty savage, grades I'd expect to be able to redpoint very quickly at home had moves I couldn't even do. That felt pretty disheartening, tho we did some good climbs and as usual the rock down there is top quality.
We cut short our stay in Provence and headed to Font a few days earlier than planned. Had a couple of really good fun days out climbing and managed to get up some decent problems so it felt like I was actually climbing okay.
Haven't really achieved any of the things I set out to do but I've leant a lot about my climbing and what I need to work on to improve... Updated training plan and goals to come next week.
Thanks Tony!
I've been in France for ten days so have missed a couple of weeks.
Week 214
M - Thrs: Various work and life stuff.
F: Train to Aix-en-Provence, drive to our place nr Verdon.
S: Raining. Windy. Gorge looked very scary.
S: A couple of easy slab routes in Verdon to get systems sorted, then the rain came in. Went to Chateauvert, did a 6a, 6b then a nails 6c which had some desperate moves. Would be solid 7a at Portland I think.
Week 215
M: Les Haus Vernis, nr Verdon. Did a 6a, a 6b w/ 1 fall, got on a 6c, did crux then fell and then a huge thunderstorm started. Got wet through.
T: Chateauvert -did a F6a, tried a 6b and then a 6b+, but it started raining in Biblical amounts, expected frogs to start falling from the sky.
W: Went to a crag near Toulon, did a 5, 6a+ which was nails, 6b which was superb, tried a 6c which was desperate, I couldn't get through the crux section which felt like solid English 6b. Great climbing tho and finally sunny!
T: Drove to Font.
F: Bouldering at 95.2. Climbed a super 5+ arete and plenty of other lovely problems. A good session.
S: Bouldering at Franchard Isatis and Cuisinere. Did an excellent arete on the white circuit at Cuisinere, one of the more memorable problems in the Forest.
S: Battered. Pootled around at Apremont in the heat but came home.
So, a really mixed trip away. I've been to the south of France five times and this was the worst weather I've ever had. We had to totally sack off climbing in the Gorge as huge thunderstorms rolled in every day - very disapointing. The sports climbing we did was pretty savage, grades I'd expect to be able to redpoint very quickly at home had moves I couldn't even do. That felt pretty disheartening, tho we did some good climbs and as usual the rock down there is top quality.
We cut short our stay in Provence and headed to Font a few days earlier than planned. Had a couple of really good fun days out climbing and managed to get up some decent problems so it felt like I was actually climbing okay.
Haven't really achieved any of the things I set out to do but I've leant a lot about my climbing and what I need to work on to improve... Updated training plan and goals to come next week.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, looks like you had a reasonable week, onsight of 7a, albeit indoors - still good for the moves and your post makes it sound casual, so I guess confience is there. I can't think of any way of working sharp projects without skin issues. Although I have some memory of someone using tape on their tips - made the climb harder but a path on the real go. Then that may have been the bloke down the pub.
Cheers for your comments. 'Twas good to get the classic tick last week, especially as you only get one go at the first real go (I had bouldered the start before, but down climbed it for another day).
This week:
last week ran into this one, got back from wales on wednesday.
Thurs - rest & drive to yorkshire
Fri - Almscliff - easy stuff with friends. Struggled feeling the love.
Sat - Eavestones - Bouldering and easy trad. By the way, there were "No access signs" on some of the crag - maybe access issues here? Really nice situation in the woods.
Sunday - Giggleswick. RP Silent Laughter (7b). Pleased with this one as a nice climb and got it really quick - first RP attempt.
Monday - Caley Roadside, mostly messing about, though got several font6's, highest 6c. Also pleased with performance.
Next week should be back to sunday to sunday.
Quieter couple of weeks coming climbing wise.
Thanks. Kev
Cheers Tony, looks like you had a reasonable week, onsight of 7a, albeit indoors - still good for the moves and your post makes it sound casual, so I guess confience is there. I can't think of any way of working sharp projects without skin issues. Although I have some memory of someone using tape on their tips - made the climb harder but a path on the real go. Then that may have been the bloke down the pub.
Cheers for your comments. 'Twas good to get the classic tick last week, especially as you only get one go at the first real go (I had bouldered the start before, but down climbed it for another day).
This week:
last week ran into this one, got back from wales on wednesday.
Thurs - rest & drive to yorkshire
Fri - Almscliff - easy stuff with friends. Struggled feeling the love.
Sat - Eavestones - Bouldering and easy trad. By the way, there were "No access signs" on some of the crag - maybe access issues here? Really nice situation in the woods.
Sunday - Giggleswick. RP Silent Laughter (7b). Pleased with this one as a nice climb and got it really quick - first RP attempt.
Monday - Caley Roadside, mostly messing about, though got several font6's, highest 6c. Also pleased with performance.
Next week should be back to sunday to sunday.
Quieter couple of weeks coming climbing wise.
Thanks. Kev
In reply to TonyB:
Not so much tough, but with the grit my skin is suffering.
Had a really bad week, had too much work.
Mon: nothing
Tue: nothing
Wed: bouldering at wall, nearly got another v8+ tick, and got another v7 tick.
Thu: nothing
Fri: nothing
Sat: still nothing
Sun: Almscliff, got my second V6 outdoors (2/3rd go) and it wasnt on a roof which is good. Otherwise did not try much hard things, had a little play on demon wall roof but still isnt happening.
Some new goals for the end of summer
V8, 2 V7 and 5 V6's
An E# lead/solo
f7c lead (comedy?)
More trad/sport
Hoping to get a bit more done next week.
Not so much tough, but with the grit my skin is suffering.
Had a really bad week, had too much work.
Mon: nothing
Tue: nothing
Wed: bouldering at wall, nearly got another v8+ tick, and got another v7 tick.
Thu: nothing
Fri: nothing
Sat: still nothing
Sun: Almscliff, got my second V6 outdoors (2/3rd go) and it wasnt on a roof which is good. Otherwise did not try much hard things, had a little play on demon wall roof but still isnt happening.
Some new goals for the end of summer
V8, 2 V7 and 5 V6's
An E# lead/solo
f7c lead (comedy?)
More trad/sport
Hoping to get a bit more done next week.
In reply to TonyB:
Had the most Amazing week in Pembroke.
Onsighted several E1s, one E2 and flashed an E3.
Lead a cool E1 in Huntsmans's Leap. It was great to watch better climbers do their stuff.
Popped in to Symmonds Yat on the way home and flashed an E4.
So I'm really excited about my first E4 flash. Now back to work.
Cheers,
Dan
Had the most Amazing week in Pembroke.
Onsighted several E1s, one E2 and flashed an E3.
Lead a cool E1 in Huntsmans's Leap. It was great to watch better climbers do their stuff.
Popped in to Symmonds Yat on the way home and flashed an E4.
So I'm really excited about my first E4 flash. Now back to work.
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks TonyB.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B in 2011
M: Bouldering at Tideswell dale
T: 7m fell run
W: Bouldering at Baslow and Curbar
T: bouldering at Rubicon
F: Theraband
S: 6m walk & bouldering at Rubicon
S: Theraband
Had hoped to head surfing last week but it didn't look worth the drive so went climbing instead. Had a great week camping in the peak, with a couple of quick 6C's. Good to be out on the lime again, qudos still feels nails.
Not running much at the moment due to an injured knee.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B in 2011
M: Bouldering at Tideswell dale
T: 7m fell run
W: Bouldering at Baslow and Curbar
T: bouldering at Rubicon
F: Theraband
S: 6m walk & bouldering at Rubicon
S: Theraband
Had hoped to head surfing last week but it didn't look worth the drive so went climbing instead. Had a great week camping in the peak, with a couple of quick 6C's. Good to be out on the lime again, qudos still feels nails.
Not running much at the moment due to an injured knee.
In reply to TonyB: Yes, if I have a rest on the route, then I can do the crux okay. But it has to be a proper rest, ie sitting on the rope. I've tried shaking out from various straight handed positions but it makes no difference. I think it's more a commitment thing too though. The move is a very powerful one that you just have go for with no hanging about, it's quite dynamic, but I'm out of power by the time I'm there. Will crack it though.
Weight this week is up another 0.5kg. Own fault though, hormones etc meant I ate loads of crap this week.
Mon - rest, although did some stretching and pilates.
Tue - Ran 5.7 miles off road, average pace 9mins 27secs.
Wed - Ran 3miles off road, average pace 8mins 44secs. Happy with this, feel like my running is getting back up to a good speed (for me!)
Thurs - climbing at local quarry. 1st time outside this year (discounting a weeks trip to Costa Blanca which was crap climbing wise) Felt really nervous (my climbing head has gone just now) so started up a grade 3 :oD Then led a 4, then a 4+. Toproped a hard 6a+ that I like (should be able to lead that in another few goes) then led a 5+ which I was happy with seen as I've been gibbering so much of late.
Fri - Ran 4.18 miles off road. 1st mile = 9mins 26secs. 2nd mile = 9mins 12 secs. 3rd mile = 9mins 28 secs. 4th mile = 9mins 51 secs (up hill)
Sat - nothing. Daughter was at the 3rd round of the Youth Climbing Series which she won. Placed 1st overall for Scotland South.
Sun - Went walking up Glen Shiel. Did the South Glen Shiel Ridge, 7 munros and 2 tops (I think) Walked the opposite that most do with more ascent to begin with. 13.6 miles.
Weight this week is up another 0.5kg. Own fault though, hormones etc meant I ate loads of crap this week.
Mon - rest, although did some stretching and pilates.
Tue - Ran 5.7 miles off road, average pace 9mins 27secs.
Wed - Ran 3miles off road, average pace 8mins 44secs. Happy with this, feel like my running is getting back up to a good speed (for me!)
Thurs - climbing at local quarry. 1st time outside this year (discounting a weeks trip to Costa Blanca which was crap climbing wise) Felt really nervous (my climbing head has gone just now) so started up a grade 3 :oD Then led a 4, then a 4+. Toproped a hard 6a+ that I like (should be able to lead that in another few goes) then led a 5+ which I was happy with seen as I've been gibbering so much of late.
Fri - Ran 4.18 miles off road. 1st mile = 9mins 26secs. 2nd mile = 9mins 12 secs. 3rd mile = 9mins 28 secs. 4th mile = 9mins 51 secs (up hill)
Sat - nothing. Daughter was at the 3rd round of the Youth Climbing Series which she won. Placed 1st overall for Scotland South.
Sun - Went walking up Glen Shiel. Did the South Glen Shiel Ridge, 7 munros and 2 tops (I think) Walked the opposite that most do with more ascent to begin with. 13.6 miles.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for filling in Tony. Sorry for absence, stacked with uni work and then been camped at Malham for the mammoth easter/wedding combo.
STG: Space Race tick& Chiselling The Dragon tick and another route >7b+ at Malham/Easter no tick but pretty happy, all things considered!
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b+, 1x7c+) ticked: (8x7b, 2+1x7b+, 1+1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 7+5) including Consenting as a clean lead rpt once, but going to need to introduce a rule about only allowing rpts once otherwise this is going to get meaningless
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Week 214
F: Train up to Malham. Consenting - had to re-project it to remind myself of what the hell I was doing. 2x clean TR. 3x dogging goes on Chiselling, bit of a disappointing flail. Lost a fair bit of skin to the razor blades. Just about got the lower bit re-wired by the last go.
S: AM: dog on 7th Aardvark to warm up. 2x dogged goes on Chiselling. Some progress - stuck the crux move into the undercut on its own a few times. Noticed the crux nubbin/razor had chewed a pretty deep hole in the sole of best pair of anasazi whites - NNFN. PM - 2x Consenting. new shoes - then 3x RP attempts on Chiselling. New high point on last go - getting up into the crux and setting up for the throw. Psyched again.
S: Space Race. bolt to bolt and 2x TR goes. Some good links on last go.
Week 215
M: rest
T: overcast, managed to climb all day. consenting x2. Chiselling - 1 bolt to bolt and then RP attempts, getting further each time. Everything felt different on the 3rd go - everything was slightly lower gravity, stepping up into the set-up position for the crux throw, having time to place my feet in control, not just stabbing them on - then eying the crux undercut knowing that this time there was no way I was falling off this move. Manage to get into the knee bar and get enough back to wobble my way up the finish. YYFY - no more crimping razors for me. PM - onsight attempt on Sycophants, fell off going into the crux but ticked 2nd go.
W: warm up on Consenting, then a few goes on Raindogs for shits and giggles. Managed to do all the moves and piece together a sequence from having watched various people on it.
T: rest
F: AM - 2x Consenting, 1x dog on 7th Aardvark. PM - 2x TR on space race, managed to accidentally link it clean last go. Aargh.
S: AM - 1 bolt to bolt on space race, got the draws in and clipping positions sorted. Flash attempt on Something Stupid - had lots of really good beta but just beaten fair and square by the sequency moves and intensely fingery nature. PM - 3x TR on puddlejumper. Redpointed Space Race first go, it all went a bit pear shaped on the crux but managed to shout/fight/scrape/flail to the chains.
S: AM: Consenting to warm up. Managed to flash Hartley Hare. PM: back on Raindogs for a couple of burns - got some short (<1 clip) links and got the sequence between clips 3 and 4 a bit more sorted.
M: AM: Sycophants to warm up, had a burn on Wasted Youth - really fun, not got the mental or physical energy to make a serious redpoint attempt on it though. PM - had a clipstick up Mescalito. Totally emptied the tank on the 2nd go - thought it was going well, then somewhere through the bulges it just became a fight to get the draws back. Nothing to do but home and rest.
Projects:
Wasted Youth - very psyched to do it next time we go back. Should hopefully go quite quickly.
Raindogs - totally, totally awesome route. Don't feel close to it - it's so sustained that doing all the moves is very much just the start of the battle - but love the moves and really want to put in the effort to eventually climb it. Planning to go away and do other stuff/build a better foundation for it and hopefully come back prepared to do it in a relatively short siege.
Mescalito - felt flippin miles off. Raindogs feels closer. Think I need to do some of the longer 7cs to bridge the gap before taking this on - Tremelo/New Dawn perhaps.
Thanks for filling in Tony. Sorry for absence, stacked with uni work and then been camped at Malham for the mammoth easter/wedding combo.
STG: Space Race tick& Chiselling The Dragon tick and another route >7b+ at Malham/Easter no tick but pretty happy, all things considered!
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b+, 1x7c+) ticked: (8x7b, 2+1x7b+, 1+1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 7+5) including Consenting as a clean lead rpt once, but going to need to introduce a rule about only allowing rpts once otherwise this is going to get meaningless
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Week 214
F: Train up to Malham. Consenting - had to re-project it to remind myself of what the hell I was doing. 2x clean TR. 3x dogging goes on Chiselling, bit of a disappointing flail. Lost a fair bit of skin to the razor blades. Just about got the lower bit re-wired by the last go.
S: AM: dog on 7th Aardvark to warm up. 2x dogged goes on Chiselling. Some progress - stuck the crux move into the undercut on its own a few times. Noticed the crux nubbin/razor had chewed a pretty deep hole in the sole of best pair of anasazi whites - NNFN. PM - 2x Consenting. new shoes - then 3x RP attempts on Chiselling. New high point on last go - getting up into the crux and setting up for the throw. Psyched again.
S: Space Race. bolt to bolt and 2x TR goes. Some good links on last go.
Week 215
M: rest
T: overcast, managed to climb all day. consenting x2. Chiselling - 1 bolt to bolt and then RP attempts, getting further each time. Everything felt different on the 3rd go - everything was slightly lower gravity, stepping up into the set-up position for the crux throw, having time to place my feet in control, not just stabbing them on - then eying the crux undercut knowing that this time there was no way I was falling off this move. Manage to get into the knee bar and get enough back to wobble my way up the finish. YYFY - no more crimping razors for me. PM - onsight attempt on Sycophants, fell off going into the crux but ticked 2nd go.
W: warm up on Consenting, then a few goes on Raindogs for shits and giggles. Managed to do all the moves and piece together a sequence from having watched various people on it.
T: rest
F: AM - 2x Consenting, 1x dog on 7th Aardvark. PM - 2x TR on space race, managed to accidentally link it clean last go. Aargh.
S: AM - 1 bolt to bolt on space race, got the draws in and clipping positions sorted. Flash attempt on Something Stupid - had lots of really good beta but just beaten fair and square by the sequency moves and intensely fingery nature. PM - 3x TR on puddlejumper. Redpointed Space Race first go, it all went a bit pear shaped on the crux but managed to shout/fight/scrape/flail to the chains.
S: AM: Consenting to warm up. Managed to flash Hartley Hare. PM: back on Raindogs for a couple of burns - got some short (<1 clip) links and got the sequence between clips 3 and 4 a bit more sorted.
M: AM: Sycophants to warm up, had a burn on Wasted Youth - really fun, not got the mental or physical energy to make a serious redpoint attempt on it though. PM - had a clipstick up Mescalito. Totally emptied the tank on the 2nd go - thought it was going well, then somewhere through the bulges it just became a fight to get the draws back. Nothing to do but home and rest.
Projects:
Wasted Youth - very psyched to do it next time we go back. Should hopefully go quite quickly.
Raindogs - totally, totally awesome route. Don't feel close to it - it's so sustained that doing all the moves is very much just the start of the battle - but love the moves and really want to put in the effort to eventually climb it. Planning to go away and do other stuff/build a better foundation for it and hopefully come back prepared to do it in a relatively short siege.
Mescalito - felt flippin miles off. Raindogs feels closer. Think I need to do some of the longer 7cs to bridge the gap before taking this on - Tremelo/New Dawn perhaps.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Epic Malham action! I very much approve. Kudos for Chiselling, looked horrible when I've belayed others on it. And nice work with space race.
beast!
Epic Malham action! I very much approve. Kudos for Chiselling, looked horrible when I've belayed others on it. And nice work with space race.
beast!
In reply to Eagle River:
Thank you! we are totally sold on the place, as you can probably tell. Chiselling is really pretty nasty, though the start holds are so painful to slap between it forces you to climb it in a really technical way so you can get them statically, which is quite satisfying in a weird way. I am mostly glad it is over. Not really recommended except for masochists.
How awesome is space race, though? It just gets better and better the more you work on it. I worked out some sneaky resting/shakeout beta, give us a shout if you are interested when you get back on it.
Thank you! we are totally sold on the place, as you can probably tell. Chiselling is really pretty nasty, though the start holds are so painful to slap between it forces you to climb it in a really technical way so you can get them statically, which is quite satisfying in a weird way. I am mostly glad it is over. Not really recommended except for masochists.
How awesome is space race, though? It just gets better and better the more you work on it. I worked out some sneaky resting/shakeout beta, give us a shout if you are interested when you get back on it.
In reply to IainRUK:
I think it's Jebb that H has a photo of you in hot pursuit of on the descent, somewhere around Sulber Nick area. I'll email you a link to it.
> Passed Jebby and the current 3p's record holder running off there, not many times that'll happen in a running career.
I think it's Jebb that H has a photo of you in hot pursuit of on the descent, somewhere around Sulber Nick area. I'll email you a link to it.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. Been a bit hectic couple of weeks with the holiday weekends. Lots of climbing though, it's been brilliant. What a result with the weather.
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
Week 214:
M - rest
T - easy boulder at the Castle
W - rest
T - rest
F - Amphitheatre Buttress, great fun. Perfect day and had it to ourselves on an Easter Friday!
S - Some bouldering at Carreg Hyll-Drem and the Cromlech boulders up to V4.
S - Some classic rock on Carreg Wastad
M - Some slightly more esoteric rock on Craig Ddu. Did my first multi pitch E1 though, I lead the easier pitches.
Week 215:
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - Routes @ Malham. 3 goes on Consenting Adults. Getting used to the rock and being 100% on the moves with my injured finger. TRs on Rose Coronary 7a & Seventh Ardvark 7b. All good but will need to wait for healthy hand.
S - Routes @ Malham. Clips in Consenting Adults, 1st RP. TRs on Puddlejumper 7a & Frankenstien 7a+.
S - Routes @ Malham. Clips in Frankenstein, 1st RP - fastest 7a+ tick yet. 2 x TRs on Raindogs. First ever time on an 8a, in itself feels like a step up. Safe to say fairly psyched to train for this.
M - Routes @ Malham. TR on Sycophants 7a, then stripped. Should just have ticked this. Clipped up Wasted Youth 7b. Very good, going to be hard. Knackered afternoon session. Pathetic attempt dogging the lower wall of Mescalitto. Nails.
Awesome couple of weeks. Found the joy and reward of bigger trad routes again and was blown away by Malham. But not spanked too badly (at my grade), I like the style. All the 7a/b's I tried but left, I feel will go quickly on return. Finally got a feel for what 8a is going to take. Finger is still injured, though at least not as acutely and with a couple weeks clear of climbing trips I'm hoping to get it sorted for good.
Nice also to meet some of the regulars up there, will no doubt be seeing you around again and hitting up for beta.
Cheers Tony. Been a bit hectic couple of weeks with the holiday weekends. Lots of climbing though, it's been brilliant. What a result with the weather.
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
Week 214:
M - rest
T - easy boulder at the Castle
W - rest
T - rest
F - Amphitheatre Buttress, great fun. Perfect day and had it to ourselves on an Easter Friday!
S - Some bouldering at Carreg Hyll-Drem and the Cromlech boulders up to V4.
S - Some classic rock on Carreg Wastad
M - Some slightly more esoteric rock on Craig Ddu. Did my first multi pitch E1 though, I lead the easier pitches.
Week 215:
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - Routes @ Malham. 3 goes on Consenting Adults. Getting used to the rock and being 100% on the moves with my injured finger. TRs on Rose Coronary 7a & Seventh Ardvark 7b. All good but will need to wait for healthy hand.
S - Routes @ Malham. Clips in Consenting Adults, 1st RP. TRs on Puddlejumper 7a & Frankenstien 7a+.
S - Routes @ Malham. Clips in Frankenstein, 1st RP - fastest 7a+ tick yet. 2 x TRs on Raindogs. First ever time on an 8a, in itself feels like a step up. Safe to say fairly psyched to train for this.
M - Routes @ Malham. TR on Sycophants 7a, then stripped. Should just have ticked this. Clipped up Wasted Youth 7b. Very good, going to be hard. Knackered afternoon session. Pathetic attempt dogging the lower wall of Mescalitto. Nails.
Awesome couple of weeks. Found the joy and reward of bigger trad routes again and was blown away by Malham. But not spanked too badly (at my grade), I like the style. All the 7a/b's I tried but left, I feel will go quickly on return. Finally got a feel for what 8a is going to take. Finger is still injured, though at least not as acutely and with a couple weeks clear of climbing trips I'm hoping to get it sorted for good.
Nice also to meet some of the regulars up there, will no doubt be seeing you around again and hitting up for beta.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: As reported last week - V5 in North Wales
Tues: rest
Weds: rest
Thur: Sit-ups, bicep curls, press-ups etc.
Fri: Sit-ups, bicep curls, press-ups etc.
Sat: Bouldered at the castle up - did a couple of V5's
Sun: Arms a bit sore - had a kick around in the park for a change
Arms are a bit sore after saturday, so will be resting and had to do a bit of cold water treatment to my right forearm. I'm going to Font on Friday so hopefully I'll get that STG ticked! proper psyched
Well done to the Malham bunch - sounds like you had a great long weekend!
Thanks Tony
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: As reported last week - V5 in North Wales
Tues: rest
Weds: rest
Thur: Sit-ups, bicep curls, press-ups etc.
Fri: Sit-ups, bicep curls, press-ups etc.
Sat: Bouldered at the castle up - did a couple of V5's
Sun: Arms a bit sore - had a kick around in the park for a change
Arms are a bit sore after saturday, so will be resting and had to do a bit of cold water treatment to my right forearm. I'm going to Font on Friday so hopefully I'll get that STG ticked! proper psyched
Well done to the Malham bunch - sounds like you had a great long weekend!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for doing this Tony.
Last couple of weeks have been surprisingly limited - bit of motivation loss after falling off the Strand. Ho hum.
This week -
M-Not much - seconded a couple of E2s at Craig Dhu. Not motivation to lead anything myself really.
T - rain.
W - a quick couple of routes at Holyhead Mountain, before driving home. Led a good HVS, but was very nervous and I don't know why.
T - shattered
F - quick trip to Malham on route to Lakes. Had a go at Rose Coronary on a rope and it felt do-able with a few more goes. Am quite excited about going back to Malham at some point soon.
S - epic gales in the Lakes meant no sleep in the campsite. Went walking and found a sheltered grag, but the things in my grade were green and unappealing. Seconded a couple of E2s that made me realise how hard E2 can be!
Sun - more epic gales. People's tent's blowing down in the night. Ours stayed up, but at several points it was flat to our faces. shattered again - after a lot of driving around, did a few VSs at Castle Rock, which was perfectly sheltered. Routes felt a bit bold - my head is not really in trad mode at the moment. Drove home, got lost, got stopped by police, got home at 3am.
Mon - belayed/seconded at Chee Tor. Some good looking routes there, but the late drive home had sapped all motivation from me to lead.
All in all considering the amount of time off work, I don't seem to have done much climbing at all - generally feeling psyched out, tired and unmotivated. Hope it will come back soon as its a bit depressing and is clearly affecting my leading head!
Thanks for doing this Tony.
Last couple of weeks have been surprisingly limited - bit of motivation loss after falling off the Strand. Ho hum.
This week -
M-Not much - seconded a couple of E2s at Craig Dhu. Not motivation to lead anything myself really.
T - rain.
W - a quick couple of routes at Holyhead Mountain, before driving home. Led a good HVS, but was very nervous and I don't know why.
T - shattered
F - quick trip to Malham on route to Lakes. Had a go at Rose Coronary on a rope and it felt do-able with a few more goes. Am quite excited about going back to Malham at some point soon.
S - epic gales in the Lakes meant no sleep in the campsite. Went walking and found a sheltered grag, but the things in my grade were green and unappealing. Seconded a couple of E2s that made me realise how hard E2 can be!
Sun - more epic gales. People's tent's blowing down in the night. Ours stayed up, but at several points it was flat to our faces. shattered again - after a lot of driving around, did a few VSs at Castle Rock, which was perfectly sheltered. Routes felt a bit bold - my head is not really in trad mode at the moment. Drove home, got lost, got stopped by police, got home at 3am.
Mon - belayed/seconded at Chee Tor. Some good looking routes there, but the late drive home had sapped all motivation from me to lead.
All in all considering the amount of time off work, I don't seem to have done much climbing at all - generally feeling psyched out, tired and unmotivated. Hope it will come back soon as its a bit depressing and is clearly affecting my leading head!
In reply to Liam M: It was a trial race for the world champs so to have any chance of making the team I had to beat at least 2 of 3 guys who have hardly beaten in the last 2 years. So I had to be really keyed up to stand any chance. I think that was why Sarah struggled, for her without a UK passport she can't run for Wales in the big championships.
I always find that my track reps times are a really good early warning of illness. Just prior to getting ill I'll be pushing really hard to do 75s for 400m, when fresh I'll knock out 70-72 without much trouble.
That first hour was so good I just wanted to laugh, never ran so comfortably and so enjoyably. I dropped into a walk out of habit going up Pen Y Ghent but then realised I was comfortable running. No idea how or why it all went so well. At least it happened at a target race but would love to know why. On the monday before I'd done a hard 20+ miler yet still felt fresh.
I always find that my track reps times are a really good early warning of illness. Just prior to getting ill I'll be pushing really hard to do 75s for 400m, when fresh I'll knock out 70-72 without much trouble.
That first hour was so good I just wanted to laugh, never ran so comfortably and so enjoyably. I dropped into a walk out of habit going up Pen Y Ghent but then realised I was comfortable running. No idea how or why it all went so well. At least it happened at a target race but would love to know why. On the monday before I'd done a hard 20+ miler yet still felt fresh.
In reply to Kevster:
Thanks for that. I've identified the fingers that hurt most and I plan to tape the tips of the three worst offending fingers. I'll let you know how it goes.
> (In reply to TonyB)
>
> I can't think of any way of working sharp projects without skin issues. Although I have some memory of someone using tape on their tips - made the climb harder but a path on the real go. Then that may have been the bloke down the pub.
>
>
> I can't think of any way of working sharp projects without skin issues. Although I have some memory of someone using tape on their tips - made the climb harder but a path on the real go. Then that may have been the bloke down the pub.
>
Thanks for that. I've identified the fingers that hurt most and I plan to tape the tips of the three worst offending fingers. I'll let you know how it goes.
In reply to IainRUK:
Hearty congrats, Iain... must have been something special to be *your* best ever!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks, Tony... it does (and most often straight out of the house at that). Although ultra-racing through them in this rare dry heat isn't always the best way to see them (51st in the Fling from 321 finishers/383 starters in a time of 9:53:48)! Happy enough with that given the conditions (felt sick, down and out at Inversnaid, could eat next to nothing over second half of the course but still finished 'strongly') and back running again tonight, so hopefully still on course for a good WHW.
M: [59.7] MTB to Ballachulish/Glenachulish forestry (c.23 miles)
T: [66.3] Run Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir, 6.6 miles/1,500 ft
W: [67.5] Run An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
T: [52.1] Rest
F: [35.8] Rest
S: [83.8] Run Highland Fling, 53.4 miles/8,000 ft*
S: [66.8] Sort of rest (bit of walking and wheelchair pushing)
*Ascent figure from Memory-Map (not Garmin Connect 'corrections') as usual, but also noting that my Garmin's maybe recorded about 0.5 mile longer than some.
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> s: 3 peaks race. 3:16, 13th, qualified for world mountain running champs in Slovenia, first in welsh trials. Probably best ever race, spookily good.
Hearty congrats, Iain... must have been something special to be *your* best ever!
In reply to TonyB:
> Petestack - Your running looks like it takes you to some beautiful places.
Thanks, Tony... it does (and most often straight out of the house at that). Although ultra-racing through them in this rare dry heat isn't always the best way to see them (51st in the Fling from 321 finishers/383 starters in a time of 9:53:48)! Happy enough with that given the conditions (felt sick, down and out at Inversnaid, could eat next to nothing over second half of the course but still finished 'strongly') and back running again tonight, so hopefully still on course for a good WHW.
M: [59.7] MTB to Ballachulish/Glenachulish forestry (c.23 miles)
T: [66.3] Run Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir, 6.6 miles/1,500 ft
W: [67.5] Run An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
T: [52.1] Rest
F: [35.8] Rest
S: [83.8] Run Highland Fling, 53.4 miles/8,000 ft*
S: [66.8] Sort of rest (bit of walking and wheelchair pushing)
*Ascent figure from Memory-Map (not Garmin Connect 'corrections') as usual, but also noting that my Garmin's maybe recorded about 0.5 mile longer than some.
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to petestack: Well done Pete. Think I'm out of the WHW now. The World Champs are the same weekend in Slovenia.
Tempted for the 10 hr in the Glen or another ultra around then because I need a long run in at some point..
Tempted for the 10 hr in the Glen or another ultra around then because I need a long run in at some point..
In reply to IainRUK:
Thanks, Iain.
Sorry to hear that (had you and Dan Gay tipped for top-10 places)...
But can understand why!
Think 10 in the Glen deserves support as a really worthwhile venture (which is why I put in the very first entry despite the risk to that possible Rigby attempt!), with the potential to become another classic if the success of 10 under the Ben etc. is anything to go by.
> Well done Pete.
Thanks, Iain.
> Think I'm out of the WHW now.
Sorry to hear that (had you and Dan Gay tipped for top-10 places)...
> The World Champs are the same weekend in Slovenia.
But can understand why!
> Tempted for the 10 hr in the Glen or another ultra around then because I need a long run in at some point..
Think 10 in the Glen deserves support as a really worthwhile venture (which is why I put in the very first entry despite the risk to that possible Rigby attempt!), with the potential to become another classic if the success of 10 under the Ben etc. is anything to go by.
In reply to TonyB:
ANOTHER quiet week.
A couple of half hearted bouldering sessions, some core and strength work at home and not a lot else.
Had a few days off on purpose at the end of the week where i didn't even think about climbing. I was finding it too stressful constantly worrying about when/where i could next fit some climbing in and my goals. It wasn't worth it so i have had some days off mentally and feel better for it.
Fingers crossed this week has something to report.
ANOTHER quiet week.
A couple of half hearted bouldering sessions, some core and strength work at home and not a lot else.
Had a few days off on purpose at the end of the week where i didn't even think about climbing. I was finding it too stressful constantly worrying about when/where i could next fit some climbing in and my goals. It wasn't worth it so i have had some days off mentally and feel better for it.
Fingers crossed this week has something to report.
In reply to IainRUK:
Good effort on Y3P, world champs sound like fun! Will get you guys over for some food when your back to catch up on everything.
Happy travels
Good effort on Y3P, world champs sound like fun! Will get you guys over for some food when your back to catch up on everything.
Happy travels
In reply to TonyB:
Goals Update
F7b+ pyramid (2x 7a - done, 1x 7b - done, 1x 7b+ to do)
F7c pyramid (3x 7a+, 1x 7a+ - done, 2x 7b, 1x 7b+, 1x 7c to do)
Mon to Thurs – 1x easy wall session and 1x 30 mins bodyweight workout, can’t remember which days.
Fri – Malham. Knackered from epic journey. Had a couple of TRs on Consenting Adults.
Sat – RP attempts on Seventh Aardvark falling off just above last bolt.
Sun – 3x TR on Space Race. Great route. Did all the moves, starting to get some decent links.
Mon – Rest. Walked up to Goredale – wow.
Tues – More RP attempts on Seventh Aardvark. Ditto falling off. Quick RP of Sycophants.
Wedns – Clips up on Something Stupid and a couple of TRs. Two overlapping sections.
Thurs – Rest.
Fri – Finally led Consenting Adults clean in the morning, and RP Seventh Aardvark in the afternoon.
Sat – Sat around quite a lot. Got back on Something Stupid but only briefly. Feeling tired - didn’t get any further.
Sun – Quick but sketchy RP of Hartley Hare. Had a TR on Free and Even Easier – felt hard and quite reachy. Next time...
Goals Update
F7b+ pyramid (2x 7a - done, 1x 7b - done, 1x 7b+ to do)
F7c pyramid (3x 7a+, 1x 7a+ - done, 2x 7b, 1x 7b+, 1x 7c to do)
Mon to Thurs – 1x easy wall session and 1x 30 mins bodyweight workout, can’t remember which days.
Fri – Malham. Knackered from epic journey. Had a couple of TRs on Consenting Adults.
Sat – RP attempts on Seventh Aardvark falling off just above last bolt.
Sun – 3x TR on Space Race. Great route. Did all the moves, starting to get some decent links.
Mon – Rest. Walked up to Goredale – wow.
Tues – More RP attempts on Seventh Aardvark. Ditto falling off. Quick RP of Sycophants.
Wedns – Clips up on Something Stupid and a couple of TRs. Two overlapping sections.
Thurs – Rest.
Fri – Finally led Consenting Adults clean in the morning, and RP Seventh Aardvark in the afternoon.
Sat – Sat around quite a lot. Got back on Something Stupid but only briefly. Feeling tired - didn’t get any further.
Sun – Quick but sketchy RP of Hartley Hare. Had a TR on Free and Even Easier – felt hard and quite reachy. Next time...
In reply to Curious Yellow: Fri – Finally led Consenting Adults clean in the morning, and RP Seventh Aardvark in the afternoon.
Nice work again H and thanks to you and Nick for the belays.
Nice work again H and thanks to you and Nick for the belays.
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Smashing. Was looking forward to hearing how you got on. Sounds like a successful seige of Malham for you both.
> Fri – Finally led Consenting Adults clean in the morning, and RP Seventh Aardvark in the afternoon.
Smashing. Was looking forward to hearing how you got on. Sounds like a successful seige of Malham for you both.
In reply to the malham crowd:
Just a quick one from France to say massive congrats to all, sounds like a great time had by all. One half day of climbing left here, but the hard climbing is done for the trip now. Will post on next weeks thread with the gory details, but it's been ace
Just a quick one from France to say massive congrats to all, sounds like a great time had by all. One half day of climbing left here, but the hard climbing is done for the trip now. Will post on next weeks thread with the gory details, but it's been ace
In reply to AJM:
Tease.
Tease.
In reply to biscuit:
Rests are good sometimes.
Maybe the long term needs focus rather than just the short term burn?
I think I might be saying - Are you over doing it? It's only a question.
K
Rests are good sometimes.
Maybe the long term needs focus rather than just the short term burn?
I think I might be saying - Are you over doing it? It's only a question.
K
In reply to TonyB:
Been falling off stuff a lot recently, which has got me rather down in the dumps psyche wise. Fell off the match of Rock Atrocity again... Was even holding the final hold for 30secs before dropping off. Fell off the top of mussel beach right at the top. And tuesday this week fell off the last move of elite syncopations and ending up inverting whacking my back on the wall. Got a couple of 7c's done first redpoint last week but I'm not really happy with my overall achievements so far this year. 8a/+ is still eluding me, and seem no where near v10 and v11...
Just need to keep ticking away and I'll get there. It's hard when I'v got the deadline of starting my PGCE in september though. I can say goodbye to all this outdoor climbing for a bit when it starts!
M-Couple of 7's at Ban-y-gor
T-Rest
W-Llandudno Fell off mussel beach at the last and then dropped Rock At from the last hold.
T-Should have flashed a 7c but dropped it after the crux high up. Started working Elite.
F-Rest
S-Rest
S-Rest
Need to get on a training session some point this week. Been out climbing loads. Fell off so much recently...Argh!!
Been falling off stuff a lot recently, which has got me rather down in the dumps psyche wise. Fell off the match of Rock Atrocity again... Was even holding the final hold for 30secs before dropping off. Fell off the top of mussel beach right at the top. And tuesday this week fell off the last move of elite syncopations and ending up inverting whacking my back on the wall. Got a couple of 7c's done first redpoint last week but I'm not really happy with my overall achievements so far this year. 8a/+ is still eluding me, and seem no where near v10 and v11...
Just need to keep ticking away and I'll get there. It's hard when I'v got the deadline of starting my PGCE in september though. I can say goodbye to all this outdoor climbing for a bit when it starts!
M-Couple of 7's at Ban-y-gor
T-Rest
W-Llandudno Fell off mussel beach at the last and then dropped Rock At from the last hold.
T-Should have flashed a 7c but dropped it after the crux high up. Started working Elite.
F-Rest
S-Rest
S-Rest
Need to get on a training session some point this week. Been out climbing loads. Fell off so much recently...Argh!!
In reply to Kevster:
Thanks for the thought :0)
Yes work meant i was burning the candle at both ends. I am still tired now but feeling better every day.
Long term focus seems to be changing of its own accord and it may not be a bad thing.
Thanks again.
Andy
Thanks for the thought :0)
Yes work meant i was burning the candle at both ends. I am still tired now but feeling better every day.
Long term focus seems to be changing of its own accord and it may not be a bad thing.
Thanks again.
Andy
In reply to shark:
And to you! Any time with the belays
And to you! Any time with the belays
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks! Had an ace trip... shame not to see you but glad your finger is on the mend. Space Race is brilliant, hoping for a chance to get back on it before too long.
to AJM: go on, give us the highlights at least?!
Thanks! Had an ace trip... shame not to see you but glad your finger is on the mend. Space Race is brilliant, hoping for a chance to get back on it before too long.
to AJM: go on, give us the highlights at least?!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony, after lay off with dodgy back managed to actually tick something!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 17 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
More Rest and test PHASE:
Exactly what it says on the tin rest lots no supplementary training and try and send projects etc.
Had nice break and back feeling better though recken I have lost sharpness. Wednesday went to Torbryan and warmed up on Mayday 6c which felt ridiculously easy! then tried to flash Thread Flintstone 7b, crux is quite technical and i was lost on the onsight and took the fall after slapping wildly, worked out a decent sequence and it felt ok but managed to pump myself out on the top section which has a sting in the tail!
Friday came back to finish Thread Flintstone, warmed up by putting the clips in and then RP'd it next go felt ok once past the crux which is trechnical more than anything, really good route!
Pain in back seems to have migrated to shoulder blade and I will be starting physio next week so going to rest till the week after and then start next phase if the niggles are sorted.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
This Weeks Goals:
Lots of rest and get back sorted.
Weight: 75.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks Tony, after lay off with dodgy back managed to actually tick something!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 17 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
More Rest and test PHASE:
Exactly what it says on the tin rest lots no supplementary training and try and send projects etc.
Had nice break and back feeling better though recken I have lost sharpness. Wednesday went to Torbryan and warmed up on Mayday 6c which felt ridiculously easy! then tried to flash Thread Flintstone 7b, crux is quite technical and i was lost on the onsight and took the fall after slapping wildly, worked out a decent sequence and it felt ok but managed to pump myself out on the top section which has a sting in the tail!
Friday came back to finish Thread Flintstone, warmed up by putting the clips in and then RP'd it next go felt ok once past the crux which is trechnical more than anything, really good route!
Pain in back seems to have migrated to shoulder blade and I will be starting physio next week so going to rest till the week after and then start next phase if the niggles are sorted.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
This Weeks Goals:
Lots of rest and get back sorted.
Weight: 75.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to TonyB: Bit late this week.
Mon - team training
Tues - work
Wed - volume
Thurs - rest
Fri - Drove to Kilnsey, got out of car, got to the crag, got back in the car, drove to Malham. Malham - warmed up, put clips in Scavenger, got moves sorted. Belayed, sun came out, tried Scavenger, took clips out. Mooched round, TR'd Space race to warm up again, went home.
Sat - Comp at the Hanger. Climbed poorly.
Not the best week ever, but you have the bad weeks to make the good weeks seem better.
Andy F
Mon - team training
Tues - work
Wed - volume
Thurs - rest
Fri - Drove to Kilnsey, got out of car, got to the crag, got back in the car, drove to Malham. Malham - warmed up, put clips in Scavenger, got moves sorted. Belayed, sun came out, tried Scavenger, took clips out. Mooched round, TR'd Space race to warm up again, went home.
Sat - Comp at the Hanger. Climbed poorly.
Not the best week ever, but you have the bad weeks to make the good weeks seem better.
Andy F
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