UKC

I've been climbing a few years but after returning from bad accident a couple of years ago, I still finding my head going on leads where I'm pushing myself or unsure. I know consciously when it's 'safe', especially on an indoor wall, but still find my brain shutting me down; mainly through fear of failure rather than fear of falling (I think)

As this all seems to be an 'in the mind' thing, would anyone consider using hypnotism to help them overcome their fears. As far as I understand it, hypnotism should not allow you to put yourself into a dangerous situation but should then allow a control of an irrational fear.

Has anyone thought of or tried this before? On paper the idea seems to make sense?

In reply to daveyw:
I don't know why you'd use hypnotism when you could just buy 9/10 climbers and rigorously apply the chapter on falling?
Have you tried this?

In reply to daveyw: Get yourself on the most overhanging part of your local wall and start taking lobs, that might help

In reply to daveyw:

Try this as well Dave.

It takes you through step by step and it works.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838

Happy climbing.

Mick

In reply to daveyw:

That article Mick has linked to is really good. I hadn't thought of the top-rop falls idea for those REALLY scared of falling off so if that's you feel it could be a good place to start.

I used to have a real problem with falling, downclimbing to the last clip and shouting "take" rather than going for the move etc. It takes a while to get used to but try to take falls every indoor session and outdoor session where safe. Eventually it doesn't feel as scary but it needs to be included as a frequent part of your training.

In reply to daveyw: Top roping falls are excellent for building up to the real thing. Get yourself onto something harder than you normally climb so you can guarantee that you'll fall and just keep taking them, make sure your belayer has a decent amount of slack in the system or you'll hardly move, fall on an overhang too so you get used to swinging into space.

When you feel ready (maybe after 5 sessions of taking too ripe falls), try taking small leader falls, climbing with your waist parallel to the quickdraw, clipping then dropping. Build up the slack in the system before you move any higher. Then try climbing past the draw you've clipped and tapping the next draw and dropping straight away.

Its important you do more than 2 falls though, you need to be taking 100s over the course of a year, maybe 50+ / month or you won't get used to them! Eventually, your confidence will increase massively, I'd recommend fall training to anyone who ever finds themselves feeling nervous above the last quickdraw, it really does help and I certainly wouldn't waste time on hypnosis, you just need to be dedicated to fall training.

Mike

In reply to Mike Nolan and Mick
Thanks all for replies.

I take plenty of top rope falls with slack in the system and am ok 'letting go' when I know I'm going to take a fall. I practice missing out clips (when safe) and am used to exposure - it's the fear of missing a clip in a 'live' unknown climbing situation that's stopping me cold and getting me really frustrated. Even more so on climbs I know I can do.

I'd been trying to get stronger and 'climb through' any problems but the consensus seems to be to train for falling rather than train for climbing, and then my climbing will get better by being more relaxed?

In reply to daveyw: Your last sentence sums it up. Next time you go to the wall just watch people who operate at about 5/6a (Without wanting ti cause offence, this is where I've noticed it mostly). You will notice a lot of these climbers will fall apart as soon as they climb above the quickdraw, their technique becomes non-existent and they will grab the quickdraw/downclimb rather than trying to move. Then once you've witnessed this, have a look at the young competition climbers and how they're willing to fall with their feet by the bolt because they're concentration is on the climbing, not clipping as soon as possible.

It's important to realise the first group of people I mentioned above will, most of the time, never have taken lead falls and probably never thought about practising them, we stick the the things we are comfortable doing and this is why people will stay on the F5 they know they can do, rather than try the F6b they may fall off. The only way to climb as confidently as the young competition climber is to get used to taking falls, like they will have done.

It's easier said than done, i'm not going to lie, but it can be pretty scary at first! The only way to improve your confidence is to get to the wall and fall! Don't just take two drops and say you've done your fall training, it won't work! It requires commitment.

What do you mean by a live climbing situation? I know it seems stupid, but the most efficient way to get better at these situations is to put yourself into these situations! Again, scary, but you're not going to die and if you want to improve, it's a necessary evil!

How do you practice for the fall where you know your last bit of gear is unlikely to hold, and you have a high chance of decking out?

In reply to JoshOvki:

You don't need to practice those ones, your belayer does.

In reply to Mike Nolan:

I'm now top roping 6b+, trying 6c's and happy to fail on both. Comfortable soloing, highballing 5's but as soon as it gets tricky leading and making clips not hanging on a jug- I'm off!

I suppose I mean by 'live climbing situation' - doing a climb I want to complete- ground up, rather than climbing up knowing I'm going to fall off. I hope I'm making sense.

It would also appear that I need the commitment of someone else who shares this problem and doesn't mind sharing each others falls. A training partner rather than a climbing partner? That's almost as tricky!

In reply to daveyw: Ok, bit of a novice question here, but deliberate falling is something I've never thought about trying.

What effect does this have on your rope with regards to max number of falls it can take. If I use my rope which has cost me a fair whack, then take deliberate falls 30-50 times per month, is it then worthless and need replacing?