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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (265) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=502084&v=1#x6836065
Posters: 31
Mrchewey – Busy week. Sounds like you could lead 6as soon with a positive attitude.
Hokkyokusei – Good week. Did you decide on some new STGs?
Si_dH – 3 7As in a day, that’s great. Getting in lots of climbing before tying the knot.
Joughton – Liverpool is so steep isn’t it. Good luck in the comp, and you’re doing well to revise so early.
Nomics4sale – Wow, a great week. Keep up the psyche now. The positive attitude makes a huge difference. In the UK we’re so negative, making excuses before we leave the ground. I often try to copy the American attitude (or better still, Tim Emmett), Telling everyone that you’re gonna smash it and that you’ve never been so ready - quite funny but also effective :P
Grubes – 18months of work! That’s gotta taste good now.
Andy – Good distance
Eagle River – Sounds worthwhile despite the conditions. Such a different rock type has got to be refreshing for your technique.
Richardh – Quiet week. Hoping to hear of some more onsight 7s soon!
AJM – You have good days and bad days all the time eh. Well done on the mass of 7a ticks.
Mark Torrance – Very nice looking fortnight. What are the numbers in [ ]? Resting Pulse?
Murd – Hope you’re having an awesome time.
Mattrm – Good luck but don’t make your injury worse.
Biscuit – Shame about the weather.
Eric9Points – Take it easy
Samoflak – Good week, hope you climb some high 7s in El Chorro
Chris05 – Good running. Keep us posted on the OAP progression.
Laim M – How quick to you hope to run Leeds Half?
Gordy B – Not bad at all. You won’t be getting any worse at that intensity.
Ian Bell – Good luck in Portland.
Leon – stay patient. But there are many E2s that won’t put a lot of strain on your elbow :P
Kevster – Exciting times. Whichever you choose it sounds like you’ll get a lot of achieving done!
Ali – You’re doing lots of both. Still, you could climb when you’re not running. You’ll be tired from the run, but you’d still get training benefit from both.
IainRUK – Cracking effort in those conditions. All the best with your foot recovery.
NMN – Welcome to fit club. Hope you manage to climb as well.
Quiddity – Flipping heck, well done and what a great week.
Candygirl – Never mind. We’ll tear it down at the works today and you can tick everything you fell off before.
Kgustaffson – 8a would be very cool
Ayuplass – Well done on the race and your proud title in the World Champs. Did a bit of Googling/youtubing and looks a bit mental!
Just don’t get injured for Pete’s sake!
Richard Popp – Good work. Take care
Stone_Donkey – Nice that you got outdoors. Think about Ondra’s advise “never say take” before a route/let your partner know your ballsy intentions just before you set off. I find it helps.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (265) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=502084&v=1#x6836065
Posters: 31
Mrchewey – Busy week. Sounds like you could lead 6as soon with a positive attitude.
Hokkyokusei – Good week. Did you decide on some new STGs?
Si_dH – 3 7As in a day, that’s great. Getting in lots of climbing before tying the knot.
Joughton – Liverpool is so steep isn’t it. Good luck in the comp, and you’re doing well to revise so early.
Nomics4sale – Wow, a great week. Keep up the psyche now. The positive attitude makes a huge difference. In the UK we’re so negative, making excuses before we leave the ground. I often try to copy the American attitude (or better still, Tim Emmett), Telling everyone that you’re gonna smash it and that you’ve never been so ready - quite funny but also effective :P
Grubes – 18months of work! That’s gotta taste good now.
Andy – Good distance
Eagle River – Sounds worthwhile despite the conditions. Such a different rock type has got to be refreshing for your technique.
Richardh – Quiet week. Hoping to hear of some more onsight 7s soon!
AJM – You have good days and bad days all the time eh. Well done on the mass of 7a ticks.
Mark Torrance – Very nice looking fortnight. What are the numbers in [ ]? Resting Pulse?
Murd – Hope you’re having an awesome time.
Mattrm – Good luck but don’t make your injury worse.
Biscuit – Shame about the weather.
Eric9Points – Take it easy
Samoflak – Good week, hope you climb some high 7s in El Chorro
Chris05 – Good running. Keep us posted on the OAP progression.
Laim M – How quick to you hope to run Leeds Half?
Gordy B – Not bad at all. You won’t be getting any worse at that intensity.
Ian Bell – Good luck in Portland.
Leon – stay patient. But there are many E2s that won’t put a lot of strain on your elbow :P
Kevster – Exciting times. Whichever you choose it sounds like you’ll get a lot of achieving done!
Ali – You’re doing lots of both. Still, you could climb when you’re not running. You’ll be tired from the run, but you’d still get training benefit from both.
IainRUK – Cracking effort in those conditions. All the best with your foot recovery.
NMN – Welcome to fit club. Hope you manage to climb as well.
Quiddity – Flipping heck, well done and what a great week.
Candygirl – Never mind. We’ll tear it down at the works today and you can tick everything you fell off before.
Kgustaffson – 8a would be very cool
Ayuplass – Well done on the race and your proud title in the World Champs. Did a bit of Googling/youtubing and looks a bit mental!
Just don’t get injured for Pete’s sake!
Richard Popp – Good work. Take care
Stone_Donkey – Nice that you got outdoors. Think about Ondra’s advise “never say take” before a route/let your partner know your ballsy intentions just before you set off. I find it helps.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan.
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - before October sport trip
<MTG> - 2012
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Rest
T: Buoux. 6a slab to warm up, then failed completely on a 6b+, couldn't figure out the move, and failed on a 6c too. Buoux fought back! The team were all getting spanked so we decided on an early finish rather than fighting on.
W: Venasque, for a change. 6b+ onsight and flash and 6c onsight. Had 2 goes on the really impressive 7b straight up the middle - long, properly steep, all on flatties (the crag is covered in flattie and slopers). Dogged once and got it in 4 (should have been 3 but I'm a halfwit) the second time. So pumpy though - I just can't recover at 20 degrees over on flatties - I'd struggle on jugs! A useful lesson in the kind of fitness that some venues just assume comes as part of the package of a 7b climber!
T: Rain overnight so we went to Orgon Canal. Had tried Sherman Contest last year and failed to finish it. It's given 7a-b in the local guide (useful!), Rockfax have plumped for 7a+ and everyone on 8a.nu went for 7b, with no votes for "soft" either. Got on it, put clips in. Realised that last years sequence for the crux was total wack! Had a redpoint but had a sequence freeze (combined with some fear of not knowing where I was going) on the last hard move. Fell off. Ticked it next go though - boom.....
F: went to the other sector at Venasque. Doubt it gets much traffic over the winter, so it was lichenous, grittly, cobwebby and unchalked. So we sat in the sun, plotted 2 weeks in Ceuse next year (probably a pretty open invite if other fit clubbers are interested - Nick, Hazel, Andy Mc, Steve etc?), and started driving home.
S: Finished driving home.
S: Probably hit the fingerboard or something later, but will report back.
Good trip all in all I think, despite some genuinely unhelpful weather at times. 5 7a onsights gets my onsight tally for the year off to a good start and so should leave me with the fitness to apply to trad as well, and the 2 7bs (I'm taking Sherman Contest I think) are nice pyramid ticks to have got. I'll be back for the 7bs that got away, and all the stuff at Buoux I didn't have time to do. Trying the 7c was perhaps a tactical mistake in that weather but did show me that given the weather to invest some more time in it I can climb that grade off home turf.
Next sport trip will be pockety (Montsant and Margalef and Siurana in Autumn) so some pocket fingerboard work is on the radar now. And if the weather can hold off the rain I'm hoping now is the season for crushing - lots of trad, and working on the rest of the pyramid too. I've come back a bit pudgy from France - too many pains au chocolat - so fixing that is an urgent priority too. Starting new job tomorrow, so bit changes there too, hopefully for the better if it means I can get more climbing in after work.
Andy
Cheers Dan.
Indoor/training priorities
- Strength/power training indoors to complement outdoor rock miles
- Pocket focus on fingerboard
- 10% body fat (racing weight)
- Bike odometer record - 613km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - before October sport trip
- Get trad mileage up and trad head in gear for trad week in June
- Maintain fitness and sport head
- Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+
<MTG> - 2012
- Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 7/8 x 7b, 2/4 x 7b+, 1/2 x 7c, 0/1 x 7c+)
- 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight]
- 7a+ onsight
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Rest
T: Buoux. 6a slab to warm up, then failed completely on a 6b+, couldn't figure out the move, and failed on a 6c too. Buoux fought back! The team were all getting spanked so we decided on an early finish rather than fighting on.
W: Venasque, for a change. 6b+ onsight and flash and 6c onsight. Had 2 goes on the really impressive 7b straight up the middle - long, properly steep, all on flatties (the crag is covered in flattie and slopers). Dogged once and got it in 4 (should have been 3 but I'm a halfwit) the second time. So pumpy though - I just can't recover at 20 degrees over on flatties - I'd struggle on jugs! A useful lesson in the kind of fitness that some venues just assume comes as part of the package of a 7b climber!
T: Rain overnight so we went to Orgon Canal. Had tried Sherman Contest last year and failed to finish it. It's given 7a-b in the local guide (useful!), Rockfax have plumped for 7a+ and everyone on 8a.nu went for 7b, with no votes for "soft" either. Got on it, put clips in. Realised that last years sequence for the crux was total wack! Had a redpoint but had a sequence freeze (combined with some fear of not knowing where I was going) on the last hard move. Fell off. Ticked it next go though - boom.....
F: went to the other sector at Venasque. Doubt it gets much traffic over the winter, so it was lichenous, grittly, cobwebby and unchalked. So we sat in the sun, plotted 2 weeks in Ceuse next year (probably a pretty open invite if other fit clubbers are interested - Nick, Hazel, Andy Mc, Steve etc?), and started driving home.
S: Finished driving home.
S: Probably hit the fingerboard or something later, but will report back.
Good trip all in all I think, despite some genuinely unhelpful weather at times. 5 7a onsights gets my onsight tally for the year off to a good start and so should leave me with the fitness to apply to trad as well, and the 2 7bs (I'm taking Sherman Contest I think) are nice pyramid ticks to have got. I'll be back for the 7bs that got away, and all the stuff at Buoux I didn't have time to do. Trying the 7c was perhaps a tactical mistake in that weather but did show me that given the weather to invest some more time in it I can climb that grade off home turf.
Next sport trip will be pockety (Montsant and Margalef and Siurana in Autumn) so some pocket fingerboard work is on the radar now. And if the weather can hold off the rain I'm hoping now is the season for crushing - lots of trad, and working on the rest of the pyramid too. I've come back a bit pudgy from France - too many pains au chocolat - so fixing that is an urgent priority too. Starting new job tomorrow, so bit changes there too, hopefully for the better if it means I can get more climbing in after work.
Andy
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG end of April 2011:
Have an epic trip to font just enjoying myself and not concentrating on grades.
MTG June 2012
RP Mr Bluesky at horseshoe
E1 onsight again
onsight E2/3
Climb hvs/E1 mulitpitch
Climb on the slate
LTG end of 2012
onsight 6c
no major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
Last weeks goals:
Take it as it comes climb a couple of sessions. Tick Two indoors
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt 3hours mainly on lead wall flashed 2x6b and lead a 6c. Bouldered about had a good session all in all.
T: Rest Some minor elbow pain stretched it out. Some push ups
F: Depot comp 5.5 hours session. Got there early pottered about a bit felt tired till the comp started. Did pretty poor in the comp. It felt like the hardest round again going round on my own. I felt I should of done better. However helped my mate with beta when she turned up and she got 3rd over all.
S: rest
S: rest maybe some push ups as still a bit of elbow pain
This weeks goals:
Drive to font
Do an entire (easy) circuit sunday
one or two wall sessions
A bit of a light week mainly due to pain in my elbows and work stress. I think I am a bit burned out from last few weeks.
Happy with how I am going on the lead wall. A bit disappointed with my comp performance.
> Grubes – 18months of work! That’s gotta taste good now.
Cheers Dan it was more relief. I had take a step back from the problem and taken trying it out of my circuit as I was not enjoying the battle any more. I went back to it showing some mates around and came close so to get it next session felt great.STG end of April 2011:
Have an epic trip to font just enjoying myself and not concentrating on grades.
MTG June 2012
RP Mr Bluesky at horseshoe
E1 onsight again
onsight E2/3
Climb hvs/E1 mulitpitch
Climb on the slate
LTG end of 2012
onsight 6c
no major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
Last weeks goals:
Take it as it comes climb a couple of sessions. Tick Two indoors
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt 3hours mainly on lead wall flashed 2x6b and lead a 6c. Bouldered about had a good session all in all.
T: Rest Some minor elbow pain stretched it out. Some push ups
F: Depot comp 5.5 hours session. Got there early pottered about a bit felt tired till the comp started. Did pretty poor in the comp. It felt like the hardest round again going round on my own. I felt I should of done better. However helped my mate with beta when she turned up and she got 3rd over all.
S: rest
S: rest maybe some push ups as still a bit of elbow pain
This weeks goals:
Drive to font
Do an entire (easy) circuit sunday
one or two wall sessions
A bit of a light week mainly due to pain in my elbows and work stress. I think I am a bit burned out from last few weeks.
Happy with how I am going on the lead wall. A bit disappointed with my comp performance.
In reply to AJM:
Nice one andy. Another 7b in the bag.
Nice one andy. Another 7b in the bag.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Not a good week but trying to get everything out of the way before a few months gardening leave from May.
M-F : nothing except a spin session on Wednesday
S: sent out to tire the dog out - 4m hilly road run
S: took new bike for a 46m ride with c4000' climbing. All the seasons in a day and Langbar both ways.
Next week'll involve much beer as it's my last week, then i'll hopefully have a few weeks of good mileage as I build up to a few Sportives and a London to Paris ride (unless something caastrophic happens like I get a job...).
M-F : nothing except a spin session on Wednesday
S: sent out to tire the dog out - 4m hilly road run
S: took new bike for a 46m ride with c4000' climbing. All the seasons in a day and Langbar both ways.
Next week'll involve much beer as it's my last week, then i'll hopefully have a few weeks of good mileage as I build up to a few Sportives and a London to Paris ride (unless something caastrophic happens like I get a job...).
In reply to Daniel Heath:
cheers Daniel.
A dire week... weather rain, cold, rain, cold. couldn't do tuesday.
sheer amount of clag on weds sapped motivation for a thursday trip.
did back in lifting a 40Kg trampoline - badly - on saturday so wouldn't have been able to do today even if it hadn't been showernig all day.
A really p1sspoor start to the season to be honest, usually would have had many things in the bag by start of May and have barely made it out.
might get out on tuesday, but guesss what - forecast poor.
cheers Daniel.
A dire week... weather rain, cold, rain, cold. couldn't do tuesday.
sheer amount of clag on weds sapped motivation for a thursday trip.
did back in lifting a 40Kg trampoline - badly - on saturday so wouldn't have been able to do today even if it hadn't been showernig all day.
A really p1sspoor start to the season to be honest, usually would have had many things in the bag by start of May and have barely made it out.
might get out on tuesday, but guesss what - forecast poor.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Back from two conferences in the US yesterday, managed a few miles on the bike and treadmill in hotel gyms over the last two weeks.
Today: Matrix - short session, felt a bit jet lagged!
STG: Recover knee (be able to run, slowly return to climbing)
MTG: As fit as possible for sport climbing in Turkey, May
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5 + < 50 min 10 k
Today: Matrix - short session, felt a bit jet lagged!
STG: Recover knee (be able to run, slowly return to climbing)
MTG: As fit as possible for sport climbing in Turkey, May
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5 + < 50 min 10 k
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Daniel.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
A good week for mileage, motivated in part by knowing that I won't get much done next week.
M - 6.21m treadmill, 0ft.
T - 1.51m hill rep, 899ft.
W - nothing.
T - 18.28m trail / bog run, 2,661ft.
F - rest.
S - 8.08m trail run, 819ft.
S - nothing.
Cheers Daniel.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
A good week for mileage, motivated in part by knowing that I won't get much done next week.
M - 6.21m treadmill, 0ft.
T - 1.51m hill rep, 899ft.
W - nothing.
T - 18.28m trail / bog run, 2,661ft.
F - rest.
S - 8.08m trail run, 819ft.
S - nothing.
Hi all
Goal routes for the year
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Do a trad road trip over jubilee bank holidays, possibly cornwall.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP (any - probably in Portland or on holiday)7b+.
This week;
T - 13 or so routes on laps. dozen or so boulder problems up to V2.
W - 90 mins bouldering, felt knackered so stopped early
S - Portland. Godnor and Cuttings. 8 routes around 6a/6b. Dodgy weather so not a bad haul for a day.
S - Portland. Neddyfields. 2 x 6a ish warm up. Then had a go at Julie Ocean (6c+ in new rockfax). First go put the clips in. Then a TR go with just one fall, got sequence sorted. Then it started raining! Next time. Nice route with great moves at the very top (won't spoil it for anyone else with beta).
Good week. Relaxed a bit and just had some fun with the climbing, been a bit too caught up with training etc I think and not enjoying it enough. Felt strong on the 6c+ so fairly happy with that.
Unlikely to do anything next week as found out on Friday i'm off to the US for work for a week. Then font the weekend after.
Goal routes for the year
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Do a trad road trip over jubilee bank holidays, possibly cornwall.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP (any - probably in Portland or on holiday)7b+.
This week;
T - 13 or so routes on laps. dozen or so boulder problems up to V2.
W - 90 mins bouldering, felt knackered so stopped early
S - Portland. Godnor and Cuttings. 8 routes around 6a/6b. Dodgy weather so not a bad haul for a day.
S - Portland. Neddyfields. 2 x 6a ish warm up. Then had a go at Julie Ocean (6c+ in new rockfax). First go put the clips in. Then a TR go with just one fall, got sequence sorted. Then it started raining! Next time. Nice route with great moves at the very top (won't spoil it for anyone else with beta).
Good week. Relaxed a bit and just had some fun with the climbing, been a bit too caught up with training etc I think and not enjoying it enough. Felt strong on the 6c+ so fairly happy with that.
Unlikely to do anything next week as found out on Friday i'm off to the US for work for a week. Then font the weekend after.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan.
Steady week with 1 real highlight but i am feeling a bit lazy as i am doing nothing on my non climbing days really.
M - Aerocap 2x15 mins on fingerboard
T - Routes at VdCauche
W - Aerocap 3 x 15 mins on fimgerboard
T - Rain cancelled play
F - Aerocap 1 x15 mins before children arguing interrupted and i never got back to it
S - Routes at Loja
S - heavy gardening. Pressups and elbow rehab
Weather meant we didn't get to where we wanted as much as we wanted but very happy with a quick 7b on Tuesday. My first one, confirmed in a guidebook anyway, and it went after 1 top rope 3 weeks ago, 2 more top ropes and then lead it. Very bouldery crux at the bottom and hardest moves i've done on a rope. Amazed i got it and very happy - big thanks to the belayer :0)
Eagle River is a RP machine. Interesting to see the differences between someone who on-sights a lot and someone who RP's a lot. I wish i could see sequences and commit them to memory as quick. Some good stuff to work on there and it's made me realise i have a lot to learn about RP'ing.
Yesterday soon knocked me back to size when we tried Hasta Luego Luca at Loja. Truly awesome route, one of the first times i've agreed with a rockfax top 50 and it felt bloody impossible. Just not used to that kind of route and it baffled me, chewed me up and spat me out. Love it and i will be back - just as soon as i get some serious beta and forearms of steel.
Got a bit tubby again lately so i am going to start losing the flab again, hopefully. 4 consecutive days at work starting tomorrow with some climbing after hopefully so that should shift some fat. Going to re-assess my tactics and goals and post them later this week.
Cheers Dan.
Steady week with 1 real highlight but i am feeling a bit lazy as i am doing nothing on my non climbing days really.
M - Aerocap 2x15 mins on fingerboard
T - Routes at VdCauche
W - Aerocap 3 x 15 mins on fimgerboard
T - Rain cancelled play
F - Aerocap 1 x15 mins before children arguing interrupted and i never got back to it
S - Routes at Loja
S - heavy gardening. Pressups and elbow rehab
Weather meant we didn't get to where we wanted as much as we wanted but very happy with a quick 7b on Tuesday. My first one, confirmed in a guidebook anyway, and it went after 1 top rope 3 weeks ago, 2 more top ropes and then lead it. Very bouldery crux at the bottom and hardest moves i've done on a rope. Amazed i got it and very happy - big thanks to the belayer :0)
Eagle River is a RP machine. Interesting to see the differences between someone who on-sights a lot and someone who RP's a lot. I wish i could see sequences and commit them to memory as quick. Some good stuff to work on there and it's made me realise i have a lot to learn about RP'ing.
Yesterday soon knocked me back to size when we tried Hasta Luego Luca at Loja. Truly awesome route, one of the first times i've agreed with a rockfax top 50 and it felt bloody impossible. Just not used to that kind of route and it baffled me, chewed me up and spat me out. Love it and i will be back - just as soon as i get some serious beta and forearms of steel.
Got a bit tubby again lately so i am going to start losing the flab again, hopefully. 4 consecutive days at work starting tomorrow with some climbing after hopefully so that should shift some fat. Going to re-assess my tactics and goals and post them later this week.
In reply to AJM:
Great trip, well done and glad to see you've already got the next trip away planned.
Hope the new job ( and diet ) go well.
Great trip, well done and glad to see you've already got the next trip away planned.
Hope the new job ( and diet ) go well.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Back to Uni - no more climbing, just training!
This term with a focus on endurance.
M-First woodie session back. Starting to remind myself how to pull hard again but really starting endurance.
T-
W-Some campusing, then getting very pumped on the woodie
T-Fitness test. 1.5mile in 8:23, still fast enough
F-Tiny bit of campusing, then endurance but finger skin gave way first
S-Silly military sports day inc 800m (3rd) and 100m wheelbarrow - nails!
S-Works, good bouldering sesh and press ups. Exhausted.
STG - Focus on endurance. I think I need to cut down campusing do a tiny amount once or twice a week, just to remind my body to pull hard.
MTG - Win RAF climbing champs in summer (hence the endurance phase)
Also reading a lot about nutrition. Cutting carbs and upping protein, especially right after a session.
Back to Uni - no more climbing, just training!
This term with a focus on endurance.
M-First woodie session back. Starting to remind myself how to pull hard again but really starting endurance.
T-
W-Some campusing, then getting very pumped on the woodie
T-Fitness test. 1.5mile in 8:23, still fast enough
F-Tiny bit of campusing, then endurance but finger skin gave way first
S-Silly military sports day inc 800m (3rd) and 100m wheelbarrow - nails!
S-Works, good bouldering sesh and press ups. Exhausted.
STG - Focus on endurance. I think I need to cut down campusing do a tiny amount once or twice a week, just to remind my body to pull hard.
MTG - Win RAF climbing champs in summer (hence the endurance phase)
Also reading a lot about nutrition. Cutting carbs and upping protein, especially right after a session.
In reply to AJM:
didn't spot your reply, sorry.
Cheers mate. Was feeling very happy but then got spanked yesterday so sensible head back on and will get bak to it this week.
didn't spot your reply, sorry.
Cheers mate. Was feeling very happy but then got spanked yesterday so sensible head back on and will get bak to it this week.
In reply to biscuit:
Take the happiness - you wn some you lose some - I got totally spanked by a 6b+ earlier this week after all
Did some weights, a bunch of situps and some weighted and offset pullups in the end today. Started to work fingers but they felt a bit achey so I've decided to sack that for today, play it safe. I also had to go shopping, reintroduce myself to my old friend the iron (who definitely seems to be one of those sorts of friends you can't quite work out why you're friends with), and all sorts of other fun.
Always best to have the next several trips away lined up by the time the current one ends, avoids any gaps in trip psyche
Take the happiness - you wn some you lose some - I got totally spanked by a 6b+ earlier this week after all
Did some weights, a bunch of situps and some weighted and offset pullups in the end today. Started to work fingers but they felt a bit achey so I've decided to sack that for today, play it safe. I also had to go shopping, reintroduce myself to my old friend the iron (who definitely seems to be one of those sorts of friends you can't quite work out why you're friends with), and all sorts of other fun.
Always best to have the next several trips away lined up by the time the current one ends, avoids any gaps in trip psyche
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG(current week): Look after elbow (tick)
MTG(current phasee): Get on a 6c or e2 even if I fail
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(1). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 25(25)
Fat %: 11.0
Focus: LE (1/3)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: Weights. Core.
Thu: Routes(7 to 6c). Bouldering (12 to V7).
Fri: ARC(30 mins). Repeaters. Core
Sat: Push-ups & pull-ups.
Sun: ARC(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters. Core
Took two rest days Monday & Tuesday because I felt so tired (kids keeping me awake) which piled on the pressure for the rest of the week. Felt knackered for most of the week to be honest but having had so much time away from training lately guilt got the better of my lazyness.
Good night @ Stockport on Thursday. Did clip drop for the first time & found it really good. So good that I am considering missing outside week night climbing to do some more (but then I realized I could just do the same thing outside, doh). Onsighted 3 problems @ V7 whcih brought a smile to my face, even though I know they cannot have been V7.
First time back on push-ups & pull-ups for 2 months. Its the only routine I do that leaves me completely exhausted for at least 10-15 minutes after finishing. Kind of love it & hate it both at the same time.
STG: Another 25 falls.
STG(current week): Look after elbow (tick)
MTG(current phasee): Get on a 6c or e2 even if I fail
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(1). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 25(25)
Fat %: 11.0
Focus: LE (1/3)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: Weights. Core.
Thu: Routes(7 to 6c). Bouldering (12 to V7).
Fri: ARC(30 mins). Repeaters. Core
Sat: Push-ups & pull-ups.
Sun: ARC(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters. Core
Took two rest days Monday & Tuesday because I felt so tired (kids keeping me awake) which piled on the pressure for the rest of the week. Felt knackered for most of the week to be honest but having had so much time away from training lately guilt got the better of my lazyness.
Good night @ Stockport on Thursday. Did clip drop for the first time & found it really good. So good that I am considering missing outside week night climbing to do some more (but then I realized I could just do the same thing outside, doh). Onsighted 3 problems @ V7 whcih brought a smile to my face, even though I know they cannot have been V7.
First time back on push-ups & pull-ups for 2 months. Its the only routine I do that leaves me completely exhausted for at least 10-15 minutes after finishing. Kind of love it & hate it both at the same time.
STG: Another 25 falls.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Monday - 8 mile trail run @ 8.30 min/ mile pace
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - short intervals 2 sets of 5x30 sec's with 45 sec recovery
Thursday - 18 mile hill run, 2 Maralyn's, 1 Corbett 1500m ascent/ descent
Friday - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - 6 mile hill run, 600m ascent
Goals:
Stuc a chroin hill race in 2 weeks
Jura hill race in 6 weeks time
Fairly pleased with last couple of weeks effort. Clocked up 3000m ascent over last 8 days. Fairly hard week ahead with a 5k race on Tuesday and hopefully one last big hill interval session towards end of week, then a taper towards Stuc a Chroin hill race, a week Saturday
Monday - 8 mile trail run @ 8.30 min/ mile pace
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - short intervals 2 sets of 5x30 sec's with 45 sec recovery
Thursday - 18 mile hill run, 2 Maralyn's, 1 Corbett 1500m ascent/ descent
Friday - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - 6 mile hill run, 600m ascent
Goals:
Stuc a chroin hill race in 2 weeks
Jura hill race in 6 weeks time
Fairly pleased with last couple of weeks effort. Clocked up 3000m ascent over last 8 days. Fairly hard week ahead with a 5k race on Tuesday and hopefully one last big hill interval session towards end of week, then a taper towards Stuc a Chroin hill race, a week Saturday
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Still no idea, but hopefully light, feel light.
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Core workout
T - Rest
F - Sport climbing at Blaenllechau
S - Trad climbing at Three Cliffs
S - Core workout
Putting up the normal set of goals as I'm back to climbing and running again. Glad to have got back to climbing again. Not doing anything even vaguely hard, just doing some easy climbs, getting back into the swing of things.
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Still no idea, but hopefully light, feel light.
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Core workout
T - Rest
F - Sport climbing at Blaenllechau
S - Trad climbing at Three Cliffs
S - Core workout
Putting up the normal set of goals as I'm back to climbing and running again. Glad to have got back to climbing again. Not doing anything even vaguely hard, just doing some easy climbs, getting back into the swing of things.
In reply to AJM:
Forgot to add, have added 7a+ onsight in as an explicit goal for the year. The 8a.nu pyramid s telling me I need to start getting out there on the sharp end going for the onsight - at the minute the pyramid looks something like:
7a - 22 (something like 7 onsights and 7 flashes)
7a+ - 8 (1 flash)
7b - 7
7b+ - 2
7c - 1
Should hopefully be able to push the onsights and flashes a bit higher up the tree if I start hitting the with the right attitude...
Forgot to add, have added 7a+ onsight in as an explicit goal for the year. The 8a.nu pyramid s telling me I need to start getting out there on the sharp end going for the onsight - at the minute the pyramid looks something like:
7a - 22 (something like 7 onsights and 7 flashes)
7a+ - 8 (1 flash)
7b - 7
7b+ - 2
7c - 1
Should hopefully be able to push the onsights and flashes a bit higher up the tree if I start hitting the with the right attitude...
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan,
Not an exciting week but not a bad one either:
Mon - Bouldering at MCC, felt a little weak as I'd been doing long pumpy sport routes without bouldering for a while but it felt like one of those sessions that's gonna make me strong again
Tue - revision
Wed - Routes at MCC, had a hard route session, warmed up on 6b+ and 7a then topped a 7b+ I'd previously onsighted, but it better style than the first time, then tried the (proper) 8a and made it about 3m from the top of the 18m wall on my second go which I will be back for - very long and sustained, my style. Then got on a 7c+ but it had a nasty (hard!) crux near the top so gave it away.
Thurs - Revision
Fri - had to resist the urge to train and rested for the comp instead
Sat - Comp, finished second again, only this time and more okay with it because Dean (the lad who beat me) was so immensely strong that I wasn't too bothered to be beaten. Anyway I'm now the second of three lads who qualified for the North West team, which is apparently the strongest so I'm fairly pleased and getting psyched for the National final at Ratho this June!
Sun - soooo tired!
Cheers, Jake
Not an exciting week but not a bad one either:
Mon - Bouldering at MCC, felt a little weak as I'd been doing long pumpy sport routes without bouldering for a while but it felt like one of those sessions that's gonna make me strong again
Tue - revision
Wed - Routes at MCC, had a hard route session, warmed up on 6b+ and 7a then topped a 7b+ I'd previously onsighted, but it better style than the first time, then tried the (proper) 8a and made it about 3m from the top of the 18m wall on my second go which I will be back for - very long and sustained, my style. Then got on a 7c+ but it had a nasty (hard!) crux near the top so gave it away.
Thurs - Revision
Fri - had to resist the urge to train and rested for the comp instead
Sat - Comp, finished second again, only this time and more okay with it because Dean (the lad who beat me) was so immensely strong that I wasn't too bothered to be beaten. Anyway I'm now the second of three lads who qualified for the North West team, which is apparently the strongest so I'm fairly pleased and getting psyched for the National final at Ratho this June!
Sun - soooo tired!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Daniel Heath:
In reply to AJM:
M: Boston.. 26.2 miles..
t: transatlantic flight
w: landed.. 31 mile road ride.. 6 mile trail run..
t: 4 mile trail run
f: 5.5 mile trail run
s: Moelwyns fell race.. silly idea when drunk.. turned up late.. maybe 50th.. eoth th dog do not at all serious..
s: 3 hr hill walk. 5 k run. 800m open water swim, llyn padarn.. cold...
In reply to AJM:
M: Boston.. 26.2 miles..
t: transatlantic flight
w: landed.. 31 mile road ride.. 6 mile trail run..
t: 4 mile trail run
f: 5.5 mile trail run
s: Moelwyns fell race.. silly idea when drunk.. turned up late.. maybe 50th.. eoth th dog do not at all serious..
s: 3 hr hill walk. 5 k run. 800m open water swim, llyn padarn.. cold...
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel, climbing is all about confidence I'm learning.
Been a garbage week due to working away in London and long hours, to top that we had a working meet at the cottage in Wales this weekend.
M - Burpees.
T - Nowt.
W - Mile End, didn't do lots as was knackered but managed a V1 traverse fair easy and had a good crack at a V3. Let the place intimidate me a bit, must try better.
T - Started work at 6.30 and ended at midnight. Plans to run sacked off.
F - Finish job and then drive straight to Wales, another long day.
S - Jobs on club cottage, food and few beers. Slept well.
S - Finish jobs then headed to Llanberis slate for the first time before heading home. T'was a bit wet but there was a few of us, so it was sociable and got up two 5b/c routes on a top rope before the rain set in. Quite liked slate, the grip for your feet on little edges is amazing even if the handholds can be a little sharp! Watching everyone else, all of whom are way harder climbers than me take as long on the crux of a slab, whilst I was belaying, was actually a decent confidence boost. Rain came down before I got on the 6a next door but next time.
Fitness took a proper hammering and need to get back on it this week,
Thanks Daniel.
Been a garbage week due to working away in London and long hours, to top that we had a working meet at the cottage in Wales this weekend.
M - Burpees.
T - Nowt.
W - Mile End, didn't do lots as was knackered but managed a V1 traverse fair easy and had a good crack at a V3. Let the place intimidate me a bit, must try better.
T - Started work at 6.30 and ended at midnight. Plans to run sacked off.
F - Finish job and then drive straight to Wales, another long day.
S - Jobs on club cottage, food and few beers. Slept well.
S - Finish jobs then headed to Llanberis slate for the first time before heading home. T'was a bit wet but there was a few of us, so it was sociable and got up two 5b/c routes on a top rope before the rain set in. Quite liked slate, the grip for your feet on little edges is amazing even if the handholds can be a little sharp! Watching everyone else, all of whom are way harder climbers than me take as long on the crux of a slab, whilst I was belaying, was actually a decent confidence boost. Rain came down before I got on the 6a next door but next time.
Fitness took a proper hammering and need to get back on it this week,
Thanks Daniel.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Forgot to ask does anyone have any tips for pembroke.
I am heading down for a long weekend at the end of june (21-26 all welcome) for my birthday. Not been before so any advice would be useful.
The plan is to camp unless there are any huts? I can't spot any on the BMC list.
I will have a medium ish size group of people with range of abilities. I will be hoping to climb HVS upwards but others will want HS and VS's any recommended crags and must do routes? We can happily split up on the days.
Is the rockfax as bad as all the other rockfax guides i.e. only get it if you have no other choice? Or should I just fork out for the new CC guides?
obviously being a birthday trip one night we will probs go out for a meal any recommendation of where to eat or is it just find a pub near the camp site?
Forgot to ask does anyone have any tips for pembroke.
I am heading down for a long weekend at the end of june (21-26 all welcome) for my birthday. Not been before so any advice would be useful.
The plan is to camp unless there are any huts? I can't spot any on the BMC list.
I will have a medium ish size group of people with range of abilities. I will be hoping to climb HVS upwards but others will want HS and VS's any recommended crags and must do routes? We can happily split up on the days.
Is the rockfax as bad as all the other rockfax guides i.e. only get it if you have no other choice? Or should I just fork out for the new CC guides?
obviously being a birthday trip one night we will probs go out for a meal any recommendation of where to eat or is it just find a pub near the camp site?
In reply to biscuit:
Nice one on the 7b, well deserved.
Eagle River is indeed an RP machine, very good at pushing himself to the max on a rope. it was inspiring to watch him shred Malham 7s last year.
Nice one on the 7b, well deserved.
Eagle River is indeed an RP machine, very good at pushing himself to the max on a rope. it was inspiring to watch him shred Malham 7s last year.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Last week is all a bit of a blur now, I'm struggling to remember what I did!
Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 1**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below
Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**
Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s
M: Alter Rock routes. Ticked the 7a+ I had tried a few times before. Pleased with this as I found it quite hard and had to skip the last clip - not something I have ever done before because I'm such a wuss!
T: Fingerboard session I think
W: nothing/rest?
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. More new problems; did them all except one that was pretty desperate. Good performance again - bouldering strength seems to be good at the moment after all.
F: Routes at Alter Rock (and a bit of bouldering at the start). Not bad. Spent most of the time trying a desperate 7a that is probably worth 7b (even in outside grades, never mind Alter Rock grades which are generally a bit soft.) Fell three times from the same move - I can do it fine after a rest but its a powerful dynamic move and after the draining section below it...
S: Stag do. Lots of drinking!
S: Stag do recovery. Lots of eating!
Overall the in-week performance was pretty good. Had a great stag do, it's probably set my weight back a couple of pounds at least, but I'll only do it once! Hopefully get back outside next weekend.
Cheers Dan. Last week is all a bit of a blur now, I'm struggling to remember what I did!
Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 1**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below
Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**
Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s
M: Alter Rock routes. Ticked the 7a+ I had tried a few times before. Pleased with this as I found it quite hard and had to skip the last clip - not something I have ever done before because I'm such a wuss!
T: Fingerboard session I think
W: nothing/rest?
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. More new problems; did them all except one that was pretty desperate. Good performance again - bouldering strength seems to be good at the moment after all.
F: Routes at Alter Rock (and a bit of bouldering at the start). Not bad. Spent most of the time trying a desperate 7a that is probably worth 7b (even in outside grades, never mind Alter Rock grades which are generally a bit soft.) Fell three times from the same move - I can do it fine after a rest but its a powerful dynamic move and after the draining section below it...
S: Stag do. Lots of drinking!
S: Stag do recovery. Lots of eating!
Overall the in-week performance was pretty good. Had a great stag do, it's probably set my weight back a couple of pounds at least, but I'll only do it once! Hopefully get back outside next weekend.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks again Daniel.
STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)
Once again managed to time my trip to Spain with the single week of bad weather but got out climbing twice.
Tues: Evening session at Villanueva de Cauche, biscuit's local crag (lucky bugger). Warmed up then got on Tomahawk. ~18m 7b which was about 3m of easy slab, 5m of powerful V4ish climbing then 10m of about 6b climbing. Really pleased to get it quickly and psyched to see biscuit climb it to complete the "team send".
Sat: Loja. F*cking amazing. Warmed up then got on Hasta Luego Luca. Absolutely mega route, 3 tufas, loads of knee bars, really steep. Felt completely beaten up after three top ropes on it. Best link got me just over half way but not quite into the easier bit at the top. One to come back to with fresh arms and knees (my knees are still really bruised two days later!).
Found out that not onsighting much at home leads to pathetic onsighting skills when climbing elsewhere. Wanted a 7b tick in a day so pleased to get that with Tomahawk. Can't wait to go back and try Luca again, such a brilliant route and the crag is ridiculous.
Thanks again Daniel.
STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)
Once again managed to time my trip to Spain with the single week of bad weather but got out climbing twice.
Tues: Evening session at Villanueva de Cauche, biscuit's local crag (lucky bugger). Warmed up then got on Tomahawk. ~18m 7b which was about 3m of easy slab, 5m of powerful V4ish climbing then 10m of about 6b climbing. Really pleased to get it quickly and psyched to see biscuit climb it to complete the "team send".
Sat: Loja. F*cking amazing. Warmed up then got on Hasta Luego Luca. Absolutely mega route, 3 tufas, loads of knee bars, really steep. Felt completely beaten up after three top ropes on it. Best link got me just over half way but not quite into the easier bit at the top. One to come back to with fresh arms and knees (my knees are still really bruised two days later!).
Found out that not onsighting much at home leads to pathetic onsighting skills when climbing elsewhere. Wanted a 7b tick in a day so pleased to get that with Tomahawk. Can't wait to go back and try Luca again, such a brilliant route and the crag is ridiculous.
In reply to Quiddity:
Not quite sure that praise is deserved, I definitely feel a lot more comfortable when I know where the holds are!
RP machine = onsight wimp.
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Nice one on the 7b, well deserved.
>
> Eagle River is indeed an RP machine, very good at pushing himself to the max on a rope. it was inspiring to watch him shred Malham 7s last year.
>
> Nice one on the 7b, well deserved.
>
> Eagle River is indeed an RP machine, very good at pushing himself to the max on a rope. it was inspiring to watch him shred Malham 7s last year.
Not quite sure that praise is deserved, I definitely feel a lot more comfortable when I know where the holds are!
RP machine = onsight wimp.
In reply to grubes:
If I am dOwn then I'll try to say hi.
The only hut I know of is the CC hut, May Cottage, but it's closed for refurbishment sometime around now and I don't know if it's available for block bookings. CC website maybe worth a look. Most of the fields in Bosherton are campsites mid summer, andyou are walking distance from the St Govans Inn which is probably the focal climbers pub in Pembroke. Some might have facilities, others next to none - the vicars Field campsite one village further away from the coast has showers and stuff but is not walking distance to a pub.
For venues the whole group should enjoy I would plump for Stennis Head and MotherCareys Kitchenas having a goodrange of classics across your desired graderange. The classic HS and VS imbers venues otherwise in South Pembroke would be Saddle Head and Bow Shaped Slab reckon for the harder grades the world is your oyster - I'd rate Pembroke as probably the best/my favourite sea cliff venue for single pitch stuff. One other thought - if Mowing Word is unbanned that could be a good group venue too.
For the HVS and up range I would say Rock Idol, The Arrow, Manzoku and Woshful Thinking are amongstthe best I've done there, all at E1. Anything you can do in the Leap will be an experience well worth doing- Shape Up at E1/2 probably easiest?
In terms ofguides, the new CC ones only cover Range East at time of writing (this would mean they exclude Mowing Word and Mother Careys of the places I've mentioned and Rock Idolfor the routes) - the volume covering these two is out sometime soonish but I don't know exactly when. The CC guides are good guides written by enthusiasts and their love of the area really comes through. The Rockfax is a good guide though, and until the CC release a Pembroke Selective in a few years time isthe only way to get 1-volume coverage of the coast - when complete the CC guide series will run to5 volumes, more routes than North Wales apparently! I think it depends how often you will be back - the Rockfax is selective but certainly more accurate than the Chorro one etc and so if it's a once a year location for you then it's probably the cost effective option right now...
If I am dOwn then I'll try to say hi.
The only hut I know of is the CC hut, May Cottage, but it's closed for refurbishment sometime around now and I don't know if it's available for block bookings. CC website maybe worth a look. Most of the fields in Bosherton are campsites mid summer, andyou are walking distance from the St Govans Inn which is probably the focal climbers pub in Pembroke. Some might have facilities, others next to none - the vicars Field campsite one village further away from the coast has showers and stuff but is not walking distance to a pub.
For venues the whole group should enjoy I would plump for Stennis Head and MotherCareys Kitchenas having a goodrange of classics across your desired graderange. The classic HS and VS imbers venues otherwise in South Pembroke would be Saddle Head and Bow Shaped Slab reckon for the harder grades the world is your oyster - I'd rate Pembroke as probably the best/my favourite sea cliff venue for single pitch stuff. One other thought - if Mowing Word is unbanned that could be a good group venue too.
For the HVS and up range I would say Rock Idol, The Arrow, Manzoku and Woshful Thinking are amongstthe best I've done there, all at E1. Anything you can do in the Leap will be an experience well worth doing- Shape Up at E1/2 probably easiest?
In terms ofguides, the new CC ones only cover Range East at time of writing (this would mean they exclude Mowing Word and Mother Careys of the places I've mentioned and Rock Idolfor the routes) - the volume covering these two is out sometime soonish but I don't know exactly when. The CC guides are good guides written by enthusiasts and their love of the area really comes through. The Rockfax is a good guide though, and until the CC release a Pembroke Selective in a few years time isthe only way to get 1-volume coverage of the coast - when complete the CC guide series will run to5 volumes, more routes than North Wales apparently! I think it depends how often you will be back - the Rockfax is selective but certainly more accurate than the Chorro one etc and so if it's a once a year location for you then it's probably the cost effective option right now...
In reply to Si dH:
Sorry to have missed it Si - hope you had fun, and I hope any gory details will be revealed in the speeches?
Sorry to have missed it Si - hope you had fun, and I hope any gory details will be revealed in the speeches?
In reply to AJM:
Chris and I would both be keen for a Ceuse trip, certainly a week if not two, if timing works out. When roughly are you planning it?
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> F: plotted 2 weeks in Ceuse next year (probably a pretty open invite if other fit clubbers are interested - Nick, Hazel, Andy Mc, Steve etc?),
Chris and I would both be keen for a Ceuse trip, certainly a week if not two, if timing works out. When roughly are you planning it?
In reply to AJM:
I expect so! Nothing too bad though, just a very dodgy outfit...
I expect so! Nothing too bad though, just a very dodgy outfit...
In reply to AJM:
Nice one, sounds like a decent haul for some time spent at hard crags - from what I hear getting spanked is par for the course at Buoux. Take the tick on the 7b if that is what you think and people concur on 8a.nu - did Rockfax even climb it before giving it 7a+ or did they just look at the local guide and take a guess...?
You should deffo get on more 7a+ onsights and give them a good go. 7 onsights + 7 flashes = time to move on.
I think pushing o/s limits is largely a probabilities game - and is mostly a case of getting on lots of them and not investing too much hope/anticipation/expectation in each one. You fall off the first few but eventually you get lucky and don't make any mistakes. If what you want is a proverbial omelette, you have to expect a few dropped eggs in the process...
Nice one, sounds like a decent haul for some time spent at hard crags - from what I hear getting spanked is par for the course at Buoux. Take the tick on the 7b if that is what you think and people concur on 8a.nu - did Rockfax even climb it before giving it 7a+ or did they just look at the local guide and take a guess...?
You should deffo get on more 7a+ onsights and give them a good go. 7 onsights + 7 flashes = time to move on.
I think pushing o/s limits is largely a probabilities game - and is mostly a case of getting on lots of them and not investing too much hope/anticipation/expectation in each one. You fall off the first few but eventually you get lucky and don't make any mistakes. If what you want is a proverbial omelette, you have to expect a few dropped eggs in the process...
Thanks Daniel. Will do.
Goals (2012)
7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C
Front lever & a one arm pull-up
M: BM: F2 max hangs with 10kg, smallest pockets, one-arm max hangs, one armer with 1.5kg assistance, theraband & front lever progs - Good intense session
T: rest
W: bouldering at NCC - trying to avoid aggravating my right ring finger but I'm not very good at sticking to really easy stuff. Good session though.
T: rest
F: nothing
S: Bouldering at Anston, should have done pocket problem (7A), I am blaming damp holds, plenty of easier stuff & 8m flat trail run
S: Quite sore so decided to go to work and try to get out in the week rather than have a poor session.
Not a great week, but climbed and trained reasonably for me. Hopefully get more sessions in this week. I need to improve at actually finishing problems.
Goals (2012)
7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C
Front lever & a one arm pull-up
M: BM: F2 max hangs with 10kg, smallest pockets, one-arm max hangs, one armer with 1.5kg assistance, theraband & front lever progs - Good intense session
T: rest
W: bouldering at NCC - trying to avoid aggravating my right ring finger but I'm not very good at sticking to really easy stuff. Good session though.
T: rest
F: nothing
S: Bouldering at Anston, should have done pocket problem (7A), I am blaming damp holds, plenty of easier stuff & 8m flat trail run
S: Quite sore so decided to go to work and try to get out in the week rather than have a poor session.
Not a great week, but climbed and trained reasonably for me. Hopefully get more sessions in this week. I need to improve at actually finishing problems.
In reply to grubes:
I have both the CC guides and the Rockfax guides. Personally, now that the new CC guides are out, I'd buy them over the Rockfax one. The Rockfax one is useful for planning stuff, but it suffers (like all Rockfax guides) from being a bit too big for the crag.
Camping is the way to go. Not sure about food recommendations, as it's been a while since I was living in that neck of the woods. There's some ok restuarants in Cardigan, which isn't that far away.
Saddle head is great for those in the VD-VS range, easy to scramble down to as well. However if you can setup an ab rope there, it is quicker and easier. Otherwise, I've never climbed anywhere other than Saddle Head. It's great tho, utterly amazing place, you'll love it.
I have both the CC guides and the Rockfax guides. Personally, now that the new CC guides are out, I'd buy them over the Rockfax one. The Rockfax one is useful for planning stuff, but it suffers (like all Rockfax guides) from being a bit too big for the crag.
Camping is the way to go. Not sure about food recommendations, as it's been a while since I was living in that neck of the woods. There's some ok restuarants in Cardigan, which isn't that far away.
Saddle head is great for those in the VD-VS range, easy to scramble down to as well. However if you can setup an ab rope there, it is quicker and easier. Otherwise, I've never climbed anywhere other than Saddle Head. It's great tho, utterly amazing place, you'll love it.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
And when you succeed strut around saying "I'm a mo-fo" in american gansta rapper accent, high fiving everyone at the crag. Part of the essential onsighting skillset innit. Especially effective if you're at least 3 grades below everyone else at the crag. Works for me
Lazy week for me, was knackered from the week in Spain. Picked it up a bit by the weekend.
STG: new goal, Cuillan Ridge in 24 hours at the end of May.
MTG: Keep climbing outside as much as possible ready for Alps trip end of July
Mon: nowt
Tues: Nowt
Wed: 5 mile local trail run
Thurs: Kendal wall, routes up to 6c+
Fri: nowt
Sat: morning, Kendal wall, routes up to 6c+. Afternoon, 7.5 mile trail run up Blencathra via Sharp Edge, 775m ascent
Sun: 21 mile MTB over to Patterdale from Pooley Bridge, 800m ascent
New goal is to attempt the Cuiillan Ridge at the end of May. So I need to get fit for it. My partner is a very experienced mountaineer so I'll probably be the weakest link. Gonna do as many hill days in the Lake District as possible before then, will be picking routes which have scrambles and lots of ascent. The Cuillan Ridge is 12 miles and 3,000m of ascent which is much more than I've ever done in a day before. The plan is to get as fit as possible so that the exposure and climbing don't feel too horrendous cos of knackeredness. And obviously the weather will dictate whether an attempt is possible.
Also going to try to climb outside at least once per week before going to Skye in May, then in June and early July pick it up to 2 or 3 times per week ready for the trip to the Alps in July.
> I often try to copy the American attitude (or better still, Tim Emmett), Telling everyone that you’re gonna smash it and that you’ve never been so ready - quite funny but also effective :P
And when you succeed strut around saying "I'm a mo-fo" in american gansta rapper accent, high fiving everyone at the crag. Part of the essential onsighting skillset innit. Especially effective if you're at least 3 grades below everyone else at the crag. Works for me
Lazy week for me, was knackered from the week in Spain. Picked it up a bit by the weekend.
STG: new goal, Cuillan Ridge in 24 hours at the end of May.
MTG: Keep climbing outside as much as possible ready for Alps trip end of July
Mon: nowt
Tues: Nowt
Wed: 5 mile local trail run
Thurs: Kendal wall, routes up to 6c+
Fri: nowt
Sat: morning, Kendal wall, routes up to 6c+. Afternoon, 7.5 mile trail run up Blencathra via Sharp Edge, 775m ascent
Sun: 21 mile MTB over to Patterdale from Pooley Bridge, 800m ascent
New goal is to attempt the Cuiillan Ridge at the end of May. So I need to get fit for it. My partner is a very experienced mountaineer so I'll probably be the weakest link. Gonna do as many hill days in the Lake District as possible before then, will be picking routes which have scrambles and lots of ascent. The Cuillan Ridge is 12 miles and 3,000m of ascent which is much more than I've ever done in a day before. The plan is to get as fit as possible so that the exposure and climbing don't feel too horrendous cos of knackeredness. And obviously the weather will dictate whether an attempt is possible.
Also going to try to climb outside at least once per week before going to Skye in May, then in June and early July pick it up to 2 or 3 times per week ready for the trip to the Alps in July.
In reply to Daniel Heath: You're right - I think I've been lacking in motivation a bit for hard climbing training and finding excuses - need to get my mojo back!
M: - Nowt (trip to hairdressers took all evening )
T - Nowt, apart from a half hour stroll at lunch to get some fresh air
W - Medium session at the Arch - did about 2/3 of the blue circuit (v2-v4) and tried a few of the greens (v3-v5) but generally got quite spanked on them - I suspect this is because I am weak, not because they are all sloping monstrosities of problems! Finished up trying to work out/remember the moves on the 7a in the tunnel - felt distinctly lacking in core. Few press ups and planks to finish
T - Nowt
F - Had day off to travel up north to visit the parents and was hoping to grab a few hours bouldering at the Churnet on the way. However given the heavy rain we've had over the last week figured it might be sopping, so headed to the Long Mynd instead for a couple of hours mountain biking. Think we did about 19km up and down hills - failed miserably on the uphills and came very cautiously down the downhills! Only about my second time proper mountain biking though, and was quite fun. Legs ached.
S - Run in the Forest (mix of hard tracks and muddy/sandy tracks - just over 6km (~6.4?) in about 31mins - felt very hard as faster than my normal pace and legs felt heavy from biking
S - Gentle 9.6km stroll along by the sea!
Think I need to get a few weekends booking in for climbing so have something to train for - at the moment because I still can't plan anything for summer as don't know when I'll be working, means I'm lacking a bit of motivation!
M: - Nowt (trip to hairdressers took all evening )
T - Nowt, apart from a half hour stroll at lunch to get some fresh air
W - Medium session at the Arch - did about 2/3 of the blue circuit (v2-v4) and tried a few of the greens (v3-v5) but generally got quite spanked on them - I suspect this is because I am weak, not because they are all sloping monstrosities of problems! Finished up trying to work out/remember the moves on the 7a in the tunnel - felt distinctly lacking in core. Few press ups and planks to finish
T - Nowt
F - Had day off to travel up north to visit the parents and was hoping to grab a few hours bouldering at the Churnet on the way. However given the heavy rain we've had over the last week figured it might be sopping, so headed to the Long Mynd instead for a couple of hours mountain biking. Think we did about 19km up and down hills - failed miserably on the uphills and came very cautiously down the downhills! Only about my second time proper mountain biking though, and was quite fun. Legs ached.
S - Run in the Forest (mix of hard tracks and muddy/sandy tracks - just over 6km (~6.4?) in about 31mins - felt very hard as faster than my normal pace and legs felt heavy from biking
S - Gentle 9.6km stroll along by the sea!
Think I need to get a few weekends booking in for climbing so have something to train for - at the moment because I still can't plan anything for summer as don't know when I'll be working, means I'm lacking a bit of motivation!
In reply to NMN:
Me too! When are you doing it? Any get fit-for-it tips? Think I'm just gonna do as many big long hill days as possible. I see you are already clocking the requisite miles... And can I ask why you aren't going for it in 24 hours, would seem very possible given your running miles and ascents?
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
>
>
> STG:
> Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
>
>
> STG:
> Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Me too! When are you doing it? Any get fit-for-it tips? Think I'm just gonna do as many big long hill days as possible. I see you are already clocking the requisite miles... And can I ask why you aren't going for it in 24 hours, would seem very possible given your running miles and ascents?
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Yeah, was happy with, and also this week. Have really enjoyed running off road, particularly Saturday. Wasn't fast but felt I could have carried on for some time. (was running with partner who was tired). No, not really worked out what my aims are this year. No mountaineering trips planned and climbing in general is on the back burner at the moment. Just want to stay fit and improve my running.
m:
Cycling 5.59 km, 5.57 km
Trail running 5.15 km
t:
Cycling 5.59 km, 5.53 km
Running 5.02 km
w:
Cycling 5.56 km, 5.52 km
Trail running 5.11 km
Running 1.33 km
t:
f:
Cycling 5.53 km, 5.58 km
s:
Trail running 7.87 km
s:
> Hokkyokusei – Good week. Did you decide on some new STGs?
Yeah, was happy with, and also this week. Have really enjoyed running off road, particularly Saturday. Wasn't fast but felt I could have carried on for some time. (was running with partner who was tired). No, not really worked out what my aims are this year. No mountaineering trips planned and climbing in general is on the back burner at the moment. Just want to stay fit and improve my running.
m:
Cycling 5.59 km, 5.57 km
Trail running 5.15 km
t:
Cycling 5.59 km, 5.53 km
Running 5.02 km
w:
Cycling 5.56 km, 5.52 km
Trail running 5.11 km
Running 1.33 km
t:
f:
Cycling 5.53 km, 5.58 km
s:
Trail running 7.87 km
s:
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel,
Sounds like some members are tearing it up! Fantastic!
Grubes - Pembroke see the bottom of my post, to save boring those who aren't into it. Take an ab rope!
My week has been indoors. Other commitments get in the way..... But pleased with the saturday fun, especially the 7b.
Tues: indoors leading: Upto 7a, did a whole bunch in the high 6's too.
Sat: The Reach - new routes on the overhang. Onsight day.
OS 2x6c+ 1x7a+ and 1x7b. Had a go at on sighting 2x7a+ 1x7b and 1x7b+ but failed the onsights. They all went quite quickly to complete, though didn't try any twice to tick clean, they'll be there next time.
This week: Climb indoors twice, try to get a day out at the weekend. Swanage for trad or brean for sport I hope.
Ta!
Grubes: RE Pembroke, I went a couple of weeks ago and ticked a number of HVS/E1's which I can tell you about below. Out of recomendations, Pigs on wings for F me! Galactic glory for the adventure and lucky strike for a nice steady ride on a lovely piece of rock.
HVS:
Eaves Dripper (Saddle head) Straight forward untill upper crux which just takes some commitment (Gear present). Excellent positions.
Pigs on wings (triple overhang) - I muttered F**k me all the way, a very atmospheric climb and one which a competent team is required for - Plenty of mid to large cams. We talked about this route for hours after. Be warned the crack suffers with seepage - every hold for me was wet, but positive.
E1:
Lucky strike (Rusty Wall) - Easy and smiles all the way. Plenty of gear where and when you need it.
Strike lucky (rusty wall) - some say E2. Face climbing, with gear as required. Enjoyable.
Wishful thinking (the castle) - Pumpy, but well protected (threads in situ) overhangs at the top. More smiles. I used a 60m ab rope to access this one - stakes well back.
Galactic glory (Hollow caves bay) - An out and out trad adventure. Ab through a blow hole, solo traverse DWS (V Easy) style. Pull round the arete after the slab (gear round the corner) which only takes a moment of confidence, enjoy the exposure before blasting up the top slight overhangs on jugs. There are a few loose blocks towards the top, but nothing XS. I thought VS if you have a go for it attitude.
Enjoy!
Thanks Daniel,
Sounds like some members are tearing it up! Fantastic!
Grubes - Pembroke see the bottom of my post, to save boring those who aren't into it. Take an ab rope!
My week has been indoors. Other commitments get in the way..... But pleased with the saturday fun, especially the 7b.
Tues: indoors leading: Upto 7a, did a whole bunch in the high 6's too.
Sat: The Reach - new routes on the overhang. Onsight day.
OS 2x6c+ 1x7a+ and 1x7b. Had a go at on sighting 2x7a+ 1x7b and 1x7b+ but failed the onsights. They all went quite quickly to complete, though didn't try any twice to tick clean, they'll be there next time.
This week: Climb indoors twice, try to get a day out at the weekend. Swanage for trad or brean for sport I hope.
Ta!
Grubes: RE Pembroke, I went a couple of weeks ago and ticked a number of HVS/E1's which I can tell you about below. Out of recomendations, Pigs on wings for F me! Galactic glory for the adventure and lucky strike for a nice steady ride on a lovely piece of rock.
HVS:
Eaves Dripper (Saddle head) Straight forward untill upper crux which just takes some commitment (Gear present). Excellent positions.
Pigs on wings (triple overhang) - I muttered F**k me all the way, a very atmospheric climb and one which a competent team is required for - Plenty of mid to large cams. We talked about this route for hours after. Be warned the crack suffers with seepage - every hold for me was wet, but positive.
E1:
Lucky strike (Rusty Wall) - Easy and smiles all the way. Plenty of gear where and when you need it.
Strike lucky (rusty wall) - some say E2. Face climbing, with gear as required. Enjoyable.
Wishful thinking (the castle) - Pumpy, but well protected (threads in situ) overhangs at the top. More smiles. I used a 60m ab rope to access this one - stakes well back.
Galactic glory (Hollow caves bay) - An out and out trad adventure. Ab through a blow hole, solo traverse DWS (V Easy) style. Pull round the arete after the slab (gear round the corner) which only takes a moment of confidence, enjoy the exposure before blasting up the top slight overhangs on jugs. There are a few loose blocks towards the top, but nothing XS. I thought VS if you have a go for it attitude.
Enjoy!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Don't forget the moonwalking, you should never forget the moonwalking...
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> [...]
>
> And when you succeed strut around saying "I'm a mo-fo" in american gansta rapper accent, high fiving everyone at the crag. Part of the essential onsighting skillset innit. Especially effective if you're at least 3 grades below everyone else at the crag. Works for me
> [...]
>
> And when you succeed strut around saying "I'm a mo-fo" in american gansta rapper accent, high fiving everyone at the crag. Part of the essential onsighting skillset innit. Especially effective if you're at least 3 grades below everyone else at the crag. Works for me
Don't forget the moonwalking, you should never forget the moonwalking...
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel, much appreicated.
I've missed a couple of weeks due to being in France for ten days and then not bothering to post last week when I got back, as I was a bit busy and tired too.
Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
Wk 264
M - Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Fly to France, drive to Verdon.
Sun: First day in Verdon. Ab into first route. No belay bolts. Carry on abbing, down past an overhanging section, reaching a ledge on rope stretch. Still no bolts. Anchor myself to a creaky tree. End up prussiking out, spinning around on the rope hundreds of feet up in the air. Top rope the last part of the route out, hands now covered in blisters. Go off and do a slabby 5+ in another area. Get the p**s ripped out of me by my mates!
Wk 265
M: Verdon: Les filles sales du metier F6b, 4 pitches. Really tough, fingery and sustained climbing. In the shadows so chilly. Welcome to the Verdon! I take a hang whilst leading a 6a pitch, but it was a bit run out and I was knackered from flashing the 6b pitch just before.
T: Raining, rest day.
W: Wet in the Gorge so we went to an out-lying crag. Did a 6a, 6b, 6b+, all either flashed or onsight.
T: Another day in the Gorge doing top pitches, 6a and 6b, not much but my partner was a bit slow on the 6b so we didn't end up doing much.
F: Wet, rest day.
S: Wet, rest day.
S: Wet in the Gorge so went to Chateaudouble, which is a bit of a lost world. Did a 6a and 6b+ in between the showers. 6b+ had a hard move (English 6a) at the bottom, took a couple of falls on it.
Wk 266
M: Drove to Monaco, climbed on Tete du Chien above the town. Very impressive spot. 6a, 6a+, 6c+ on TR with a couple of falls on the crux. Then fly home.
T: Job interview.
W: Got job!
T: Knackered.
F: Nothing.
S: Wall, laps on auto-belay, approx 6a+ max up, some climbing down at 5. 3x2 assisted one-armers, press-ups. Then straight home for 2.8m run. Felt a bit tired doing two sessions back-to-back.
S: 2.3m run.
Trip was a bit mixed. I was pleased to o/s 6b+, specially given that French French grades are, imho, a bit tougher than Spanish or English French grades. Some of those routes have hard moves on them. Altho we didn't do much in the way of big routes in the Gorge, it was still good to get on a bigger cliff and deal with all that big cliff stuff - useful preparation for later in the year. Also considering I'd injured a finger and hadn't done much in the run-up to the trip, I was reasonably pleased with my level. However, I didn't tick any of my goal routes or climb a 7a, and the weather was a bit rubbish. I'm not sure how useful the trip was in terms of getting fit and ready for the summer in the UK.
I think the Verdon is a great venue, but it's hard and prone to bad weather. I suspect the weather is more stable in the autumn, so if/when I go back, it will be later in the year, with a full summer's climbing behind me and the stamina to tick some of the bigger routes.
Anyhow I'm back, have a job until August and will then be off to sunny California Need to get a bit of all-round fitness for big walling I think, hence trying two sessions (wall then running) on Saturday. Got quite a bit of hard work ahead of me...
Thanks Daniel, much appreicated.
I've missed a couple of weeks due to being in France for ten days and then not bothering to post last week when I got back, as I was a bit busy and tired too.
Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
Wk 264
M - Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Fly to France, drive to Verdon.
Sun: First day in Verdon. Ab into first route. No belay bolts. Carry on abbing, down past an overhanging section, reaching a ledge on rope stretch. Still no bolts. Anchor myself to a creaky tree. End up prussiking out, spinning around on the rope hundreds of feet up in the air. Top rope the last part of the route out, hands now covered in blisters. Go off and do a slabby 5+ in another area. Get the p**s ripped out of me by my mates!
Wk 265
M: Verdon: Les filles sales du metier F6b, 4 pitches. Really tough, fingery and sustained climbing. In the shadows so chilly. Welcome to the Verdon! I take a hang whilst leading a 6a pitch, but it was a bit run out and I was knackered from flashing the 6b pitch just before.
T: Raining, rest day.
W: Wet in the Gorge so we went to an out-lying crag. Did a 6a, 6b, 6b+, all either flashed or onsight.
T: Another day in the Gorge doing top pitches, 6a and 6b, not much but my partner was a bit slow on the 6b so we didn't end up doing much.
F: Wet, rest day.
S: Wet, rest day.
S: Wet in the Gorge so went to Chateaudouble, which is a bit of a lost world. Did a 6a and 6b+ in between the showers. 6b+ had a hard move (English 6a) at the bottom, took a couple of falls on it.
Wk 266
M: Drove to Monaco, climbed on Tete du Chien above the town. Very impressive spot. 6a, 6a+, 6c+ on TR with a couple of falls on the crux. Then fly home.
T: Job interview.
W: Got job!
T: Knackered.
F: Nothing.
S: Wall, laps on auto-belay, approx 6a+ max up, some climbing down at 5. 3x2 assisted one-armers, press-ups. Then straight home for 2.8m run. Felt a bit tired doing two sessions back-to-back.
S: 2.3m run.
Trip was a bit mixed. I was pleased to o/s 6b+, specially given that French French grades are, imho, a bit tougher than Spanish or English French grades. Some of those routes have hard moves on them. Altho we didn't do much in the way of big routes in the Gorge, it was still good to get on a bigger cliff and deal with all that big cliff stuff - useful preparation for later in the year. Also considering I'd injured a finger and hadn't done much in the run-up to the trip, I was reasonably pleased with my level. However, I didn't tick any of my goal routes or climb a 7a, and the weather was a bit rubbish. I'm not sure how useful the trip was in terms of getting fit and ready for the summer in the UK.
I think the Verdon is a great venue, but it's hard and prone to bad weather. I suspect the weather is more stable in the autumn, so if/when I go back, it will be later in the year, with a full summer's climbing behind me and the stamina to tick some of the bigger routes.
Anyhow I'm back, have a job until August and will then be off to sunny California Need to get a bit of all-round fitness for big walling I think, hence trying two sessions (wall then running) on Saturday. Got quite a bit of hard work ahead of me...
In reply to Nik Jennings:
Ah yes, the moonwalking masterclass. Can't believe I forgot the most important bit!
> (In reply to Nomics4sale)
> [...]
>
> Don't forget the moonwalking, you should never forget the moonwalking...
> [...]
>
> Don't forget the moonwalking, you should never forget the moonwalking...
Ah yes, the moonwalking masterclass. Can't believe I forgot the most important bit!
In reply to grubes:
As for Pembroke, I think the Rockfax is just about okay on the usual crags but if you go even just a little away from the regular venues then I think the grading is actually rather dangerous. For example, I backed off a VS which turned out to be top end, bold HVS, and another HVS which was hard and poorly protected enough to defeat my partner, who went on to climb several E3s that summer. So I've bought the CC guides as the authors have actually climbed the routes in it! However the Rockfax is probably okay for the major cliffs.
I like the campsite near the church as it has showers, but I'm not that bothered about being near the pub.
As for Pembroke, I think the Rockfax is just about okay on the usual crags but if you go even just a little away from the regular venues then I think the grading is actually rather dangerous. For example, I backed off a VS which turned out to be top end, bold HVS, and another HVS which was hard and poorly protected enough to defeat my partner, who went on to climb several E3s that summer. So I've bought the CC guides as the authors have actually climbed the routes in it! However the Rockfax is probably okay for the major cliffs.
I like the campsite near the church as it has showers, but I'm not that bothered about being near the pub.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Doing it end of May or start of June.
Long hill days are a good idea, but probably best to pick scrambles with as much exposure as possible.
We had a fairly pathetic 24 hour attempt 3? years ago as a team of 3. We could have got further than we did, but we clearly weren't moving quickly enough for a 24 hour attempt and were needing to get the rope out too much.
So far we are 2 of that same 3 and the other person is set on a 2 day attempt with a bivvy. I'd actually prefer a 24 hour attempt but 2 days completely takes the time pressure away and I am happy just to be getting back up there. I was running fit before but moved slowly due to the exposure which was a bit of a shock at how much of the time you were in an exposed position, mentally it wore me down quickly.
I don't know if better climbers will automatically be better with this or if there is a need to train that kind of exposed scrambling?
Prior knowledge of the ridge would be a big help, I can tell that we'll be much quicker / confident over the bit of the ridge we have already seen.
Before our attempt, I'd like to try and have some days soloing lots of very easy grit routes in approach shoes.
> (In reply to NMN)
Doing it end of May or start of June.
Long hill days are a good idea, but probably best to pick scrambles with as much exposure as possible.
We had a fairly pathetic 24 hour attempt 3? years ago as a team of 3. We could have got further than we did, but we clearly weren't moving quickly enough for a 24 hour attempt and were needing to get the rope out too much.
So far we are 2 of that same 3 and the other person is set on a 2 day attempt with a bivvy. I'd actually prefer a 24 hour attempt but 2 days completely takes the time pressure away and I am happy just to be getting back up there. I was running fit before but moved slowly due to the exposure which was a bit of a shock at how much of the time you were in an exposed position, mentally it wore me down quickly.
I don't know if better climbers will automatically be better with this or if there is a need to train that kind of exposed scrambling?
Prior knowledge of the ridge would be a big help, I can tell that we'll be much quicker / confident over the bit of the ridge we have already seen.
Before our attempt, I'd like to try and have some days soloing lots of very easy grit routes in approach shoes.
In reply to NMN:
My big worry is the exposure, like you say, I think the constant exposure is going to be very tiring. My plan is to do as many exposed scrambles as possible in the Lake District as training. If I link a few together in one day then I reckon I'll get a fair amount of mileage and ascent done too. The mileage should help with fitness and scrambles are probably as much as I can do for training for exposure. I figure that getting mileage done will help stave off knackeredness on the day, making the exposure slightly easier to deal with. Dunno.
Prior knowledge and some advance reccies would help I'm sure but I've been told that the weather is so changeable that if you get any good weather then it's best just to go for it regardless of how much reccying you've done. It would be incredibly frustrating to spend 4 days reccying only to have the weather close in on the day of your planned attempt...
Easy soloing is a good idea. Might try that too if I get a chance.
My big worry is the exposure, like you say, I think the constant exposure is going to be very tiring. My plan is to do as many exposed scrambles as possible in the Lake District as training. If I link a few together in one day then I reckon I'll get a fair amount of mileage and ascent done too. The mileage should help with fitness and scrambles are probably as much as I can do for training for exposure. I figure that getting mileage done will help stave off knackeredness on the day, making the exposure slightly easier to deal with. Dunno.
Prior knowledge and some advance reccies would help I'm sure but I've been told that the weather is so changeable that if you get any good weather then it's best just to go for it regardless of how much reccying you've done. It would be incredibly frustrating to spend 4 days reccying only to have the weather close in on the day of your planned attempt...
Easy soloing is a good idea. Might try that too if I get a chance.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers. Ideally I'd like to crack 90mins, but I'll have to see. I have a pb of just over 92mins, but done in rather windy conditions, and managed about the same last year on a course that the concensus suggested was about 400m too long. Leeds isn't the fastest course, but not overly slow, especially as I'm reasonable at going uphill. It's a club championship race, so any decent performance should get me some points!
4 days cycle commute plus
Mon: 16k easy club run
Tue: Hill sprints 9xc200m
Wed: 21k easy mixed terrain run.
Thu: 7k run. 40mins swim
Fri: 9k run
Sat: Leeds Park Run. 20.41. Slower than hoped, but my legs felt heavy on the way up and never really got going.
Sun: Couple of hours MTB around Rivington Pike, including a rather interesting descent called the Ice Cream Run.
Decent week, with reasonable mileage. A little slower than hoped at Park Run, but I knew cycling up there my legs weren't up for a quick one.
Probably much the same this upcoming week, except I have Hawkshead Trail Race on Saturday. It's nothing taper worthy though, so will just go out and enjoy it as a hardish session.
4 days cycle commute plus
Mon: 16k easy club run
Tue: Hill sprints 9xc200m
Wed: 21k easy mixed terrain run.
Thu: 7k run. 40mins swim
Fri: 9k run
Sat: Leeds Park Run. 20.41. Slower than hoped, but my legs felt heavy on the way up and never really got going.
Sun: Couple of hours MTB around Rivington Pike, including a rather interesting descent called the Ice Cream Run.
Decent week, with reasonable mileage. A little slower than hoped at Park Run, but I knew cycling up there my legs weren't up for a quick one.
Probably much the same this upcoming week, except I have Hawkshead Trail Race on Saturday. It's nothing taper worthy though, so will just go out and enjoy it as a hardish session.
In reply to Kevster:
Pigs on the wing was bird banned this time last year - I believe the Rockfax is wrong - worth carefully checking the access posters etc.
Pigs on the wing was bird banned this time last year - I believe the Rockfax is wrong - worth carefully checking the access posters etc.
In reply to Quiddity:
I know a bunch of the guys on the trip tried it and didn't finish it, but I don't know of Adrian or Audrey did it in addition. Don't really feel I've enough experience on that style of route to comment really, so I'm going for simple majority...
You're right on the probabilities - I'll have to start breaking some eggs
I know a bunch of the guys on the trip tried it and didn't finish it, but I don't know of Adrian or Audrey did it in addition. Don't really feel I've enough experience on that style of route to comment really, so I'm going for simple majority...
You're right on the probabilities - I'll have to start breaking some eggs
In reply to AJM:
I believe you are correct, unless you use the abseil approach.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=419
Which is the same as what the warden lady gave me as info on the ground.
I guess there is the opportunity that I interpreted the access info incorrectly, in which case I am due a public hanging, or at least a stoning with unexploded ordinance!
For thoroughness though Grubes, maybe recheck the access info if you're planning on this route.
I believe you are correct, unless you use the abseil approach.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=419
Which is the same as what the warden lady gave me as info on the ground.
I guess there is the opportunity that I interpreted the access info incorrectly, in which case I am due a public hanging, or at least a stoning with unexploded ordinance!
For thoroughness though Grubes, maybe recheck the access info if you're planning on this route.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Hi, thanks Daniel. Funny week unable to get out, we have foster kids at the minute. Been getting into repeaters and max hangs on the fingerboard and 4x4's at teh wall, feeling stronger even after short period of time. looking forward to gettin out and onto the "projects" that need tidying up.
Pain in ribs passed quickly but do have a nagging pain in elbow, on the inside but mainly above the joint. I cured my dodgy shoulder with therababnd exercises but dont seem to be making any inroads here with the old weighted sick malarky. Can golfers elbow manifest above the joint? Probably need to persevere/be more rigorous.
Got cancer check up tomorrow-not too worried, feeling good.
New short term goal, for the end of the current Cheddar (school summer holidays)season-a "proper" 7a, either Shaking like a Leaf, Pirates of Lamb Leer or Chepito.
M-Stretch,repeaters
T-Long swim,aprox 3/4 mile
W-Circuits at TCA, repeaters
T-Long stretch,run.
F-4x4 at wal plus crack at new problems, repeaters.
S-Stretching.
S-Rpeaters, run.
Rich
Pain in ribs passed quickly but do have a nagging pain in elbow, on the inside but mainly above the joint. I cured my dodgy shoulder with therababnd exercises but dont seem to be making any inroads here with the old weighted sick malarky. Can golfers elbow manifest above the joint? Probably need to persevere/be more rigorous.
Got cancer check up tomorrow-not too worried, feeling good.
New short term goal, for the end of the current Cheddar (school summer holidays)season-a "proper" 7a, either Shaking like a Leaf, Pirates of Lamb Leer or Chepito.
M-Stretch,repeaters
T-Long swim,aprox 3/4 mile
W-Circuits at TCA, repeaters
T-Long stretch,run.
F-4x4 at wal plus crack at new problems, repeaters.
S-Stretching.
S-Rpeaters, run.
Rich
In reply to Kevster: Pigs on the Wing is to the right of Galactic Coordinator, and therefore is covered by the restriction.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Taper Week 2 of 3. Square brackets are rolling seven day totals in miles (though I like the resting heartrate hypothesis).
M: [52.3] am, 5 miles easy road run; pm, 3 miles easy road run
T: [42.5] -
W: [52.5] 10 miles road run with 8 at 6:54/m
T: [42] -
F: [45.5] 3.5 miles easy road run
S: [40] 8 miles offroad run with 35 minutes of hill reps (taken gently); stretches and strides
S: [29.5] -
Wednesday felt comfortable - just on the edge between needing to focus and being able to think of other things - and I toyed with the idea of adopting this as target marathon pace, but am now seeing sense.
Taper Week 2 of 3. Square brackets are rolling seven day totals in miles (though I like the resting heartrate hypothesis).
M: [52.3] am, 5 miles easy road run; pm, 3 miles easy road run
T: [42.5] -
W: [52.5] 10 miles road run with 8 at 6:54/m
T: [42] -
F: [45.5] 3.5 miles easy road run
S: [40] 8 miles offroad run with 35 minutes of hill reps (taken gently); stretches and strides
S: [29.5] -
Wednesday felt comfortable - just on the edge between needing to focus and being able to think of other things - and I toyed with the idea of adopting this as target marathon pace, but am now seeing sense.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Daniel, I can safely say there will be no more running with coal for at least 6 months so no need to worry about injury! I'll just stick to normal, lightweight running for a bit I reckon
Mon - 30 mins bouldering and laps on self belay
Tues - Leeds wall. Led 4+, 5 on small overhang, dogged 5 on long OH. 2nd 6a, 5+ x2
Weds - gym AM - 20 mins treadmill then squat/curl/press combo x10x3
Thurs - Leeds wall led 4+,5x2, dogged a hard 5 and 4+ on OH. 2nd 5+ x2. Good session, this is the most and the best I've led for AGES!
Fri - gym tired so warmed up for 10 minutes on treadmill, then weight machines, big weights/low reps
Sat - rest
Sun - bouldered for 50 minutes. Did on the minute problems for 10 minutes then worked v3
I know I'm only leading really low grades but comparing back to earlier in the year when I was having a panic attack while seconding a 4+ I feel so much better. Feel like I'm getting back to normal, think the increased milage is having an effect. Hoping a small part translates to leading outside but will need loads of outdoor milage either way.
I realise people on here discuss much higher grades than my current ones, I find this inspiring but my small gains make me happy anyway. Onwards and upwards!
Cheers Daniel, I can safely say there will be no more running with coal for at least 6 months so no need to worry about injury! I'll just stick to normal, lightweight running for a bit I reckon
Mon - 30 mins bouldering and laps on self belay
Tues - Leeds wall. Led 4+, 5 on small overhang, dogged 5 on long OH. 2nd 6a, 5+ x2
Weds - gym AM - 20 mins treadmill then squat/curl/press combo x10x3
Thurs - Leeds wall led 4+,5x2, dogged a hard 5 and 4+ on OH. 2nd 5+ x2. Good session, this is the most and the best I've led for AGES!
Fri - gym tired so warmed up for 10 minutes on treadmill, then weight machines, big weights/low reps
Sat - rest
Sun - bouldered for 50 minutes. Did on the minute problems for 10 minutes then worked v3
I know I'm only leading really low grades but comparing back to earlier in the year when I was having a panic attack while seconding a 4+ I feel so much better. Feel like I'm getting back to normal, think the increased milage is having an effect. Hoping a small part translates to leading outside but will need loads of outdoor milage either way.
I realise people on here discuss much higher grades than my current ones, I find this inspiring but my small gains make me happy anyway. Onwards and upwards!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel,
Better week, though was reeling from the after effects of the red-eye flight and no sleep on Sunday night. Lack of self-discipline to actually go to bed at night surely played a part too.
Mon: Boulder. Tired and weak, even though would normally expect to be strong after 1 week break
Tue: Forgot my shoes. Spent an hour campusing
Wed: --
Thu: 5.7k run to the wall in 26:45. Long boulder session. Nothing hard, but a lot of volume; really shattered by the end
Fri: --
Sat: --
Sun: 4 mile road race in central park in 27:09. Very happy with time. Boulder & campusing in the evening.
Bit of an in-between kind of week. Very happy with the road race -- first race for ages and I did it loads faster than I expected and have ever run before. I guess sticking with the running for a bit over a month actually has seen me improve a bit.
Goals:
Short-term: Bring strength and power back up; find motivated partners
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).
/Jonas
Thanks Daniel,
Better week, though was reeling from the after effects of the red-eye flight and no sleep on Sunday night. Lack of self-discipline to actually go to bed at night surely played a part too.
Mon: Boulder. Tired and weak, even though would normally expect to be strong after 1 week break
Tue: Forgot my shoes. Spent an hour campusing
Wed: --
Thu: 5.7k run to the wall in 26:45. Long boulder session. Nothing hard, but a lot of volume; really shattered by the end
Fri: --
Sat: --
Sun: 4 mile road race in central park in 27:09. Very happy with time. Boulder & campusing in the evening.
Bit of an in-between kind of week. Very happy with the road race -- first race for ages and I did it loads faster than I expected and have ever run before. I guess sticking with the running for a bit over a month actually has seen me improve a bit.
Goals:
Short-term: Bring strength and power back up; find motivated partners
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).
/Jonas
In reply to ayuplass:
Ayuplass - if it's making you happy, you're doing good.
It's one of the things I like about climbing, if you're trying, then even a world class climber will still stop and cheer you on.
Ayuplass - if it's making you happy, you're doing good.
It's one of the things I like about climbing, if you're trying, then even a world class climber will still stop and cheer you on.
In reply to ayuplass: I've led 3 x 3, 3 x 4, 2 x 5 this week plus tried to second some tough for me 6a's - it's all mileage that will make clipping smoother, confidence higher and harder grades nearer!
It doesn't matter what grade you climb, as long as you're trying to push it.
It doesn't matter what grade you climb, as long as you're trying to push it.
In reply to mrchewy:
Cheers guys and thanks for the encouragement!
> (In reply to ayuplass)
And kevster>
> It doesn't matter what grade you climb, as long as you're trying to push it.
> It doesn't matter what grade you climb, as long as you're trying to push it.
Cheers guys and thanks for the encouragement!
In reply to ayuplass:
Totally agree with the others. One of the nice things about fit club is that it is inspiring reading about people pushing themselves - the grade is immaterial, the important thing is trying hard - especially trying hard to overcome lead-head setbacks, I think most of us can identify with that. Nice one. Mileage is the way.
> I realise people on here discuss much higher grades than my current ones, I find this inspiring but my small gains make me happy anyway.
Totally agree with the others. One of the nice things about fit club is that it is inspiring reading about people pushing themselves - the grade is immaterial, the important thing is trying hard - especially trying hard to overcome lead-head setbacks, I think most of us can identify with that. Nice one. Mileage is the way.
In reply to ayuplass:
Nice work, just keep going for it. Try to lead everything (warm ups, cool downs, routes at your limit everything!), that way it becomes the norm and not something to be feared.
When you say you dogged a 6a, was that because you fell off a few times or called "take" when you thought you couldn't do the move?
Nice work, just keep going for it. Try to lead everything (warm ups, cool downs, routes at your limit everything!), that way it becomes the norm and not something to be feared.
When you say you dogged a 6a, was that because you fell off a few times or called "take" when you thought you couldn't do the move?
In reply to ayuplass:
The grade does not matter only that you are trying (as others have said).
All climbers I have met* have been happy to see people try and push them selves no matter the grade. Watching others achieve a goal or pushing them selves makes you want to do it your self. Any grade break at any level is an achievement.
I heard a story of when Adam ondra was over here last time he was having a "rest day". Where he spent the day at kilnsey just chatting to climbers, cheering people on routes, going up routes and helping them work a sequence, on what he considers a trade route and generally building his own psyche by watching other people try hard.
When I was on the coaching holiday. The thing that really made us all want to try hardest was we were all trying hard. Everyone was clibming different grades and everyone was achieving different goals.
Another experience of this was when I went to chorro the first time I met Jimmy kay as we were both staying at the same place. One day I got back to the olive branch and he was exstatic as he had just climbed his first 7c(/+ can't remember). The psyche he had pushed me to climb harder as I wanted that feeling and the next day I climbed my first 6b. Its a great feeling.
Keep fighting, pushing yourself and keep enjoying yourself whatever grade you climb. Its contagious and you achieveing your goals, might just help someone else achieve there goals.
*there was once one misarable bastard at huddersfield wall. But he was a dick, his partner did not even seem to like him and left pretty quick.
The grade does not matter only that you are trying (as others have said).
All climbers I have met* have been happy to see people try and push them selves no matter the grade. Watching others achieve a goal or pushing them selves makes you want to do it your self. Any grade break at any level is an achievement.
I heard a story of when Adam ondra was over here last time he was having a "rest day". Where he spent the day at kilnsey just chatting to climbers, cheering people on routes, going up routes and helping them work a sequence, on what he considers a trade route and generally building his own psyche by watching other people try hard.
When I was on the coaching holiday. The thing that really made us all want to try hardest was we were all trying hard. Everyone was clibming different grades and everyone was achieving different goals.
Another experience of this was when I went to chorro the first time I met Jimmy kay as we were both staying at the same place. One day I got back to the olive branch and he was exstatic as he had just climbed his first 7c(/+ can't remember). The psyche he had pushed me to climb harder as I wanted that feeling and the next day I climbed my first 6b. Its a great feeling.
Keep fighting, pushing yourself and keep enjoying yourself whatever grade you climb. Its contagious and you achieveing your goals, might just help someone else achieve there goals.
*there was once one misarable bastard at huddersfield wall. But he was a dick, his partner did not even seem to like him and left pretty quick.
In reply to ayuplass:
As others have said don't worry about it. Fr5/Fr5+ is about where I'm at as it stands, so you aren't the only one not in the 6s and 7s.
> I realise people on here discuss much higher grades than my current ones, I find this inspiring but my small gains make me happy anyway. Onwards and upwards!
As others have said don't worry about it. Fr5/Fr5+ is about where I'm at as it stands, so you aren't the only one not in the 6s and 7s.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
For those of you who were discussing fingerboarding last week Shark (simon lee who orignally started fit club) just put some great links on the other channel.
More fingerboard advice:
http: // ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19967.msg359503.html#msg359503
delete the spaces
For those of you who were discussing fingerboarding last week Shark (simon lee who orignally started fit club) just put some great links on the other channel.
More fingerboard advice:
http: // ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19967.msg359503.html#msg359503
delete the spaces
In reply to Eagle River:
Falling is definitely something i need to address, I either say take or down climb to the bolt. I'm starting to feel less anxious and more able to go for but I know I need to tackle my fear of falling. I'm just reading Espresso Lessons at the moment, need to act on it next *gulp*
Falling is definitely something i need to address, I either say take or down climb to the bolt. I'm starting to feel less anxious and more able to go for but I know I need to tackle my fear of falling. I'm just reading Espresso Lessons at the moment, need to act on it next *gulp*
In reply to ayuplass:
Once you get the falling off thing sorted it really frees you up to improve. The scariest bit is thinking about it and the moments before letting go. Once you're airborne its fine!
It's been done to death on here but just to re-iterate, get a belayer you trust implicitly who has lots of experience holding falls and most importantly belaying dynamically. Getting a nice soft catch makes all the difference.
Once you get the falling off thing sorted it really frees you up to improve. The scariest bit is thinking about it and the moments before letting go. Once you're airborne its fine!
It's been done to death on here but just to re-iterate, get a belayer you trust implicitly who has lots of experience holding falls and most importantly belaying dynamically. Getting a nice soft catch makes all the difference.
In reply to ayuplass:
Good luck with the falling.
Just to reinforce the message in Espresso Lessons (great book) that falling practice shouldn't be scary - if it IS scary, all you are doing is associating letting go with being afraid - probably you are taking falls that are too big. Personally I wouldn't worry about trying to go higher than bolt by your knees for the first few sessions.
Actually I think falling practice would be better described as 'relaxation practice' as you are trying to practice being relaxed when falling - personally I try and do as much falling as my partners will let me get away with at the start of each session as I move much more freely once I have taken a few lobs - at the moment I've not been doing much falling and I really notice it in my climbing, I need to do more falling in my next few indoor sessions to chill out a bit.
if it starts to feel scary, then you have overcooked it. Sorry if you already know this
Good luck with the falling.
Just to reinforce the message in Espresso Lessons (great book) that falling practice shouldn't be scary - if it IS scary, all you are doing is associating letting go with being afraid - probably you are taking falls that are too big. Personally I wouldn't worry about trying to go higher than bolt by your knees for the first few sessions.
Actually I think falling practice would be better described as 'relaxation practice' as you are trying to practice being relaxed when falling - personally I try and do as much falling as my partners will let me get away with at the start of each session as I move much more freely once I have taken a few lobs - at the moment I've not been doing much falling and I really notice it in my climbing, I need to do more falling in my next few indoor sessions to chill out a bit.
if it starts to feel scary, then you have overcooked it. Sorry if you already know this
In reply to Ayuplass:
Totally agree with what Eagle and Quiddity say. Take it very easy with someone you really trust and maybe even just start off with top rope 'slumps' onto the rope. Even with it tight but just letting go was hard for me at first. I built up to the stage where i could clip the last bolt on Kendal lead wall and climb to the belay, take a loop of slack and jump off without clipping it.
HOWEVER it made little difference to on-sighting outdoors for me. The fear of the unknown was what was making me brick myself. Is the next hold good ? Where can i clip from ? Will i fall whilst clipping with an armful of slack out ? What will the fall be like ? Where is the rope going ? Will i hit anything ? etc etc etc.
So what worked for me was lots of mileage. When i came to Spain last August my onsight level was 6a+ and my redpoint 6c on a good day. I went right back to climbing grade 4's, then 5's, then 5+'s then 6a's. Lots and lots of them without a thought for pushing myself. It taught me that it's perfectly normal and acceptable to go above a bolt, it doesn't automatically need an adrenalin injection. My climbing became much smoother and more confident.
I then knew what routes i would be likely to fall on as i had a much better idea where my level was and either accepted that i may fall, if i wanted the route enough, or shouted take. This happened a lot but i didn't beat myself up for shouting take. The cycle of self loathing when you 'fail' by shouting take is a horrible one. Just chalk it up to experience and learn from it for next time.
I then seemed to magically find myself committing to moves into the unknown with a fall a real possibility, it suddenly didn't seem to bother me anymore, and all without doing any actual fall training. Onsighting has gone up to 6c+ regularly and i've just redpointed my first 7b.
That's not to say it's not there anymore. I was trying an onsight the other week with Eagle River and bottled what turned out to be an easy move because i was pumped, struggling and sideways on to the rock. As soon as the old thoughts came into my head " I'm going to fall sideways, that's not happened before, what will it be like ? " i knew i wasn't going to commit. I've learnt now that's a weakness and will be more confident next time as i have rationalised it back on the ground where i had the headspace to do so. It would have been a safe fall into space but it felt unknown to me so freaked me out a bit.
Anyway that's my 2p's worth, though it looks like 10p's worth as i've typed a lot. It could be a long journey but do it at your speed, enjoy climbing while you do it, and the rewards will be massive.
Totally agree with what Eagle and Quiddity say. Take it very easy with someone you really trust and maybe even just start off with top rope 'slumps' onto the rope. Even with it tight but just letting go was hard for me at first. I built up to the stage where i could clip the last bolt on Kendal lead wall and climb to the belay, take a loop of slack and jump off without clipping it.
HOWEVER it made little difference to on-sighting outdoors for me. The fear of the unknown was what was making me brick myself. Is the next hold good ? Where can i clip from ? Will i fall whilst clipping with an armful of slack out ? What will the fall be like ? Where is the rope going ? Will i hit anything ? etc etc etc.
So what worked for me was lots of mileage. When i came to Spain last August my onsight level was 6a+ and my redpoint 6c on a good day. I went right back to climbing grade 4's, then 5's, then 5+'s then 6a's. Lots and lots of them without a thought for pushing myself. It taught me that it's perfectly normal and acceptable to go above a bolt, it doesn't automatically need an adrenalin injection. My climbing became much smoother and more confident.
I then knew what routes i would be likely to fall on as i had a much better idea where my level was and either accepted that i may fall, if i wanted the route enough, or shouted take. This happened a lot but i didn't beat myself up for shouting take. The cycle of self loathing when you 'fail' by shouting take is a horrible one. Just chalk it up to experience and learn from it for next time.
I then seemed to magically find myself committing to moves into the unknown with a fall a real possibility, it suddenly didn't seem to bother me anymore, and all without doing any actual fall training. Onsighting has gone up to 6c+ regularly and i've just redpointed my first 7b.
That's not to say it's not there anymore. I was trying an onsight the other week with Eagle River and bottled what turned out to be an easy move because i was pumped, struggling and sideways on to the rock. As soon as the old thoughts came into my head " I'm going to fall sideways, that's not happened before, what will it be like ? " i knew i wasn't going to commit. I've learnt now that's a weakness and will be more confident next time as i have rationalised it back on the ground where i had the headspace to do so. It would have been a safe fall into space but it felt unknown to me so freaked me out a bit.
Anyway that's my 2p's worth, though it looks like 10p's worth as i've typed a lot. It could be a long journey but do it at your speed, enjoy climbing while you do it, and the rewards will be massive.
In reply to biscuit:
I know you're right about the effect (lack of) on sighting outdoors but I'm hoping that I'm developing 'hanging on in there' mental strength which is some thing I lack. I tend to give up at a hard bit so I'm trying to make myself stop, relax and think and try to work out the moves instead of just sitting back on the rope. I tend to get in a panic and shut down so the espresso book is useful for strategies to deal with that.
Ive been thinking about a coaching session focused on mental strategies maybe with Craig Watson at Harrogate
I know you're right about the effect (lack of) on sighting outdoors but I'm hoping that I'm developing 'hanging on in there' mental strength which is some thing I lack. I tend to give up at a hard bit so I'm trying to make myself stop, relax and think and try to work out the moves instead of just sitting back on the rope. I tend to get in a panic and shut down so the espresso book is useful for strategies to deal with that.
Ive been thinking about a coaching session focused on mental strategies maybe with Craig Watson at Harrogate
In reply to Quiddity:
And thanks to you and eagle river and everyone else for your encouragement, isn't fit club lovely!
And thanks to you and eagle river and everyone else for your encouragement, isn't fit club lovely!
In reply to biscuit: Cheers for that - I know it wasn't aimed for me but I guess I'm in the same boat. It all helps.
Problem is, I don't want to get into a mindset that falling is okay. I started climbing to make my scrambling safer, I was getting myself into all sorts of places. I spend a fair amount of time on easy ground and on my own and falling just isn't an option. Even the winter stuff I've done has been solo, with the exception of being on Tower Ridge this year. I even soloed down a D+ in Morocco and never felt out of my comfort zone, I can't imagine how fall practice would help but it obviously does.
Taking up climbing has worked in that I can always work out a move or some such when I'm scrambling, so I feel more confident and therefore safer. Climbing was a means to an end in the beginning I guess and I don't have any focused ambitions that are specific to climbing, although I do want to get better. Falling would be nasty on the sort of climbing routes I do, big and easy with lots of things to hit and a no no when I'm on my own.
It's a head game and one I just don't get or am not ready for yet I guess.
Problem is, I don't want to get into a mindset that falling is okay. I started climbing to make my scrambling safer, I was getting myself into all sorts of places. I spend a fair amount of time on easy ground and on my own and falling just isn't an option. Even the winter stuff I've done has been solo, with the exception of being on Tower Ridge this year. I even soloed down a D+ in Morocco and never felt out of my comfort zone, I can't imagine how fall practice would help but it obviously does.
Taking up climbing has worked in that I can always work out a move or some such when I'm scrambling, so I feel more confident and therefore safer. Climbing was a means to an end in the beginning I guess and I don't have any focused ambitions that are specific to climbing, although I do want to get better. Falling would be nasty on the sort of climbing routes I do, big and easy with lots of things to hit and a no no when I'm on my own.
It's a head game and one I just don't get or am not ready for yet I guess.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Sorry for late update. Mostly resting and social bouldering last week so not much to report on this week.
Reflecting a bit on goals this week. After Kaly, I think it is time - I am realistically, as ready as I'll ever be - feeling in pretty good shape and it is a reasonable time in the season - it is time to pick an 8a, commit to doing it and not walk away until it is ticked.
Due to Malham being wet, and likely to continue getting wetter for the forseeable future - I am in all probability looking at something on Portland. Probably Fighting Torque, though I'm keen to at least have a look at The Breathing Method if only to establish that the moves aren't a feasible proposition.
STG
8a Redpoint
Goals for 2012
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Complete 8a Pyramid (done: 4x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+ need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Raindogs
M: see last week's update
T: flying back from kaly (rest)
W: rest
T: rest
F: short boulder - mostly mucking around on new Panels set. Pretty low power as per usual. worked V4 and V5.
S: short Castle sesh. tried pen set, failing on V4s. low power and moving like a donkey.
S: Arch. low power as per. o/s 7a in tunnel, working on the moves on the red 7c. Did a few circuit problems. Hammered by end of session.
Sorry for late update. Mostly resting and social bouldering last week so not much to report on this week.
Reflecting a bit on goals this week. After Kaly, I think it is time - I am realistically, as ready as I'll ever be - feeling in pretty good shape and it is a reasonable time in the season - it is time to pick an 8a, commit to doing it and not walk away until it is ticked.
Due to Malham being wet, and likely to continue getting wetter for the forseeable future - I am in all probability looking at something on Portland. Probably Fighting Torque, though I'm keen to at least have a look at The Breathing Method if only to establish that the moves aren't a feasible proposition.
STG
8a Redpoint
Goals for 2012
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Complete 8a Pyramid (done: 4x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+ need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Raindogs
M: see last week's update
T: flying back from kaly (rest)
W: rest
T: rest
F: short boulder - mostly mucking around on new Panels set. Pretty low power as per usual. worked V4 and V5.
S: short Castle sesh. tried pen set, failing on V4s. low power and moving like a donkey.
S: Arch. low power as per. o/s 7a in tunnel, working on the moves on the red 7c. Did a few circuit problems. Hammered by end of session.
In reply to Quiddity:
Extending the Cuttings season over the summer then..... I was half wondering whether you would plump for a Kilnsey choice or something like that if you went for a projecting summer rather than consolidation/mileage/off-season. Hoping to do some Swanagey stuff over the summer so may come and watch one day
> it is time to pick an 8a, commit to doing it and not walk away until it is ticked.
> Due to Malham being wet, and likely to continue getting wetter for the forseeable future - I am in all probability looking at something on Portland. Probably Fighting Torque, though I'm keen to at least have a look at The Breathing Method if only to establish that the moves aren't a feasible proposition.
Extending the Cuttings season over the summer then..... I was half wondering whether you would plump for a Kilnsey choice or something like that if you went for a projecting summer rather than consolidation/mileage/off-season. Hoping to do some Swanagey stuff over the summer so may come and watch one day
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel. Had my first grit trip of the year planned for today but sacked it off due to forecast. So just one indoor session 5,6a,6a,6a then worked a 6b+ on TR; plus one rockring session (deadhangs 3 sets of 3 small holds). Hopefully next Fri for Stanage...
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.
Had a great week away, loads of laughs and got to climb for 7 days, weather was great. Visited Sella, Toix (upper and lower) Alcalai, Guadalest, and Gandia and did a multipitch at Toix Este. Performance wise I didn’t really break new ground though I didn’t come home feeling disappointed. Had a couple of 6a+ onsights, both very different, first being a slabby technical route (no name, Toix upper), the other a sustained (Elendigliches, at Alacalai…a lovely route btw). Did look at 6b at Guadalest, cleaned it on top rope but did not have enough left for a clean Redpoint, failed on the last move, but learned plenty about redpointing a route. Only the last day was the least bit of a downer, after a poor nights sleep I was good for nothing, but all in I was pleased with the way things went and I have some great memories.
Since I got back I have managed a wall session and a home session, both went well. 6b+ and 6b onsights, started to look at new 6c+ on comp wall.
Training wise I’m going to look at strength for next for weeks before going back onto PE
Thanks Dan.
Had a great week away, loads of laughs and got to climb for 7 days, weather was great. Visited Sella, Toix (upper and lower) Alcalai, Guadalest, and Gandia and did a multipitch at Toix Este. Performance wise I didn’t really break new ground though I didn’t come home feeling disappointed. Had a couple of 6a+ onsights, both very different, first being a slabby technical route (no name, Toix upper), the other a sustained (Elendigliches, at Alacalai…a lovely route btw). Did look at 6b at Guadalest, cleaned it on top rope but did not have enough left for a clean Redpoint, failed on the last move, but learned plenty about redpointing a route. Only the last day was the least bit of a downer, after a poor nights sleep I was good for nothing, but all in I was pleased with the way things went and I have some great memories.
Since I got back I have managed a wall session and a home session, both went well. 6b+ and 6b onsights, started to look at new 6c+ on comp wall.
Training wise I’m going to look at strength for next for weeks before going back onto PE
In reply to Quiddity:
Hey Nick...congrats on the first 7c+....looks like it was a productive trip.
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Complete 8a Pyramid (done: 4x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+
Hey Nick...congrats on the first 7c+....looks like it was a productive trip.
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