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Many thanks to volunteers for the following weeks:
1/7 Biscuit
8/7 Biscuit
15/7 AJM
22/7 SeanKenny
29/7 Nomics4Sale
5/8 Nomics4Sale
12/8 Nomics4Sale
19/8 Grubes
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (273) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=509041
Posters: 27
AJM – Enjoyed reading your week. 4 E2s is a good ticklist!
Biscuit – Sorry to hear. Good that you’ve taken injury as an opportunity to target body fat.
Grubes – Well done on the comp, sounds like steady progress
Mattrm – Well done, keep going at the V3s
Ian Bell – Don’t worry, PE will return fast. I’ve just had the joy of improving with some circuits, having never trained it properly before.
Mrchewey – The intervals were certainly not in boots! Tempting but I’d rather give long term injury a wide berth. You seem to be packing more sessions into your busy week all the time.
Migs493 – Good volume. What are your goals at the moment? With years of onsighting under your belt, maybe work something hard?
NMN – Wow big distance for your first run back.
Seankenny – good work getting on the E3. Keep going with the laps, they sound like useful sessions. But if you do start to platau, maybe it’s time to do a few weeks of something else before returning to PE.
Chris05 – Don’t lose heart mate. If you’re getting tired of OAP/front lever progs maybe find a different goal for a few weeks?
Quiddity – I hope you’re still glowing from FT, great achievement! It would be cool to see you cruising some hard trad in the near future. Don’t lose momentum.
Nomics4Sale – Wouldn’t hurt to work a few 7as, change is usually good. About the E1, I often jokingly think of an E1 as a Fr6a, something you’d do as a warm up. As long as it’s safe, that attitude often helps me to go for it.
Steve John B – Sounds painful, at least you have a diagnosis. …It’s a good job you don’t need your quads to do pull ups :P
Eagle River – Strong Bouldering Session
The new Nick B – Sorry to hear about the injury. Sounds like you made the right call.
IanT – Well done on the 6a. The very fact you’re reflecting on how you spend time at the wall, is a good thing. I wouldn’t worry too much at this stage, but you could (probably do already) focus on either bouldering or roped climbing in a session. Use your warm up as an opportunity to have a good think about your technique. Try moves a few times to find the easiest way to do them. You seem keen, it’s cool.
Ali – Thanks Ali, I might get back to you if my August fills up any more. Want Out sounds like an exciting project. Good luck this week.
Curious Yellow – Sounds like a great couple of weeks. Hope you get the project soon.
Kevster – Good work in France, sounds like a cool place.
IainRUK – Strong
Leon – Strong week, not slacking at all. Have fun experimenting with the endurance phase.
JimmyKay – Maybe we should spend a day or two in Chee Dale or Lorry Park next week? I’m pretty psyched to get a good effort in before I go away.
Hokkyokusei - Stac Pollaidh is lovely isn’t it. Looks like you got a lot done.
Liam M – You’re getting a lot in, good work.
Ayuplass – Good effort getting on the VSs on second. I’m sure you’ll improve fast, even just by finding resting points and ways to relax on route.
GordyB – Welcome back, and congrats on completing your LTG.
Stone Donkey – Well done on the 6as. Keep pushing it.
1/7 Biscuit
8/7 Biscuit
15/7 AJM
22/7 SeanKenny
29/7 Nomics4Sale
5/8 Nomics4Sale
12/8 Nomics4Sale
19/8 Grubes
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (273) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=509041
Posters: 27
AJM – Enjoyed reading your week. 4 E2s is a good ticklist!
Biscuit – Sorry to hear. Good that you’ve taken injury as an opportunity to target body fat.
Grubes – Well done on the comp, sounds like steady progress
Mattrm – Well done, keep going at the V3s
Ian Bell – Don’t worry, PE will return fast. I’ve just had the joy of improving with some circuits, having never trained it properly before.
Mrchewey – The intervals were certainly not in boots! Tempting but I’d rather give long term injury a wide berth. You seem to be packing more sessions into your busy week all the time.
Migs493 – Good volume. What are your goals at the moment? With years of onsighting under your belt, maybe work something hard?
NMN – Wow big distance for your first run back.
Seankenny – good work getting on the E3. Keep going with the laps, they sound like useful sessions. But if you do start to platau, maybe it’s time to do a few weeks of something else before returning to PE.
Chris05 – Don’t lose heart mate. If you’re getting tired of OAP/front lever progs maybe find a different goal for a few weeks?
Quiddity – I hope you’re still glowing from FT, great achievement! It would be cool to see you cruising some hard trad in the near future. Don’t lose momentum.
Nomics4Sale – Wouldn’t hurt to work a few 7as, change is usually good. About the E1, I often jokingly think of an E1 as a Fr6a, something you’d do as a warm up. As long as it’s safe, that attitude often helps me to go for it.
Steve John B – Sounds painful, at least you have a diagnosis. …It’s a good job you don’t need your quads to do pull ups :P
Eagle River – Strong Bouldering Session
The new Nick B – Sorry to hear about the injury. Sounds like you made the right call.
IanT – Well done on the 6a. The very fact you’re reflecting on how you spend time at the wall, is a good thing. I wouldn’t worry too much at this stage, but you could (probably do already) focus on either bouldering or roped climbing in a session. Use your warm up as an opportunity to have a good think about your technique. Try moves a few times to find the easiest way to do them. You seem keen, it’s cool.
Ali – Thanks Ali, I might get back to you if my August fills up any more. Want Out sounds like an exciting project. Good luck this week.
Curious Yellow – Sounds like a great couple of weeks. Hope you get the project soon.
Kevster – Good work in France, sounds like a cool place.
IainRUK – Strong
Leon – Strong week, not slacking at all. Have fun experimenting with the endurance phase.
JimmyKay – Maybe we should spend a day or two in Chee Dale or Lorry Park next week? I’m pretty psyched to get a good effort in before I go away.
Hokkyokusei - Stac Pollaidh is lovely isn’t it. Looks like you got a lot done.
Liam M – You’re getting a lot in, good work.
Ayuplass – Good effort getting on the VSs on second. I’m sure you’ll improve fast, even just by finding resting points and ways to relax on route.
GordyB – Welcome back, and congrats on completing your LTG.
Stone Donkey – Well done on the 6as. Keep pushing it.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Onsight E2/3
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
This weeks goals:
No idea - Ended up at malham and the works
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: The works. 3.5 Hours Great session spanked. Mainly on purple circuit some flashes, some worked tried some blues. Full body work out. I had forgotten how good the works is. Finger was trashed by the end of it probs not the best prep for malham
S: Malham Spanked! top rope dogged rose coronary and Just another dead end job. Both felt doable with work. Had a go at the start of puddle jumper and completely spanked. Finger was screaming by the end of the day
S: Probably some core and push ups later.
Next Weeks goals:
Pembroke
Sea cliffs (obv)
HVS
E1
Turn 26
Do something stupid (not the malham route)
Not looking forward to my birthday but so psyched for pembroke even if the forecast is looking poor. Camping at bosherton and will be in the pub up the road (st govans inn?) friday night for it if anyone is about some and say hello.
> Grubes – Well done on the comp, sounds like steady progress
Cheers it felt good. I did not keep track of my scores going along so was a nice surprise at the end of the sessionSTG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Onsight E2/3
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
This weeks goals:
No idea - Ended up at malham and the works
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: The works. 3.5 Hours Great session spanked. Mainly on purple circuit some flashes, some worked tried some blues. Full body work out. I had forgotten how good the works is. Finger was trashed by the end of it probs not the best prep for malham
S: Malham Spanked! top rope dogged rose coronary and Just another dead end job. Both felt doable with work. Had a go at the start of puddle jumper and completely spanked. Finger was screaming by the end of the day
S: Probably some core and push ups later.
Next Weeks goals:
Pembroke
Sea cliffs (obv)
HVS
E1
Turn 26
Do something stupid (not the malham route)
Not looking forward to my birthday but so psyched for pembroke even if the forecast is looking poor. Camping at bosherton and will be in the pub up the road (st govans inn?) friday night for it if anyone is about some and say hello.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Hope you're getting lots in before you go to the states. What branch of the RAF are you going for ? I was going down your career path myself in my younger years.
Grubes - why are you not looking forward to your birthday ? 26 is nothing - have a look at the thread about old boulderers and the celebrating 50 yrs of climbing one. Hope the weather holds.
Quiet week for me as predicted. My elbow feels so much better after physio. It was really tight and i couldn't rotate it anywhere near as much as my left. It's still sore but in a different way now, if that makes sense. I think it's just settling down. It's felt fine when climbing with clients though i've done nothing over 6a+ on it.
My food discipline has been OK this week. A few beers for the footie and a couple of churros and chocolate on saturday, but i normally have 3 so it's OK. I am not dieting as i go crazy if i cut back but i am using the diet quality score from racing weight to make sure i cut out the crap.I've worked 5 days this week and taken sensible packed lunches so that's helped, as has kicking my can of coke a day habit.
I've run every day for half an hour apart from Friday when i was back too late and the footie was on. Temps are still in high 20's at 9pm so it's hard to find the time to run. 1/2 hour on the hills round here ( we live in the Mountains of Malaga region - it's hilly ) is as much as i can manage at the moment.
So end result has been a steady decrease in body fat on the scales from 13.4% to 12.4% this morning.
I am going to the local training crag this evening to test my elbow out, fingers crossed.
On another plus i've met another potential climbing partner Luis who as usual round here is a bloody good climber ( multiple 8b's ) but really nice and doesn't mind i am crap.
Cheers Dan. Hope you're getting lots in before you go to the states. What branch of the RAF are you going for ? I was going down your career path myself in my younger years.
Grubes - why are you not looking forward to your birthday ? 26 is nothing - have a look at the thread about old boulderers and the celebrating 50 yrs of climbing one. Hope the weather holds.
Quiet week for me as predicted. My elbow feels so much better after physio. It was really tight and i couldn't rotate it anywhere near as much as my left. It's still sore but in a different way now, if that makes sense. I think it's just settling down. It's felt fine when climbing with clients though i've done nothing over 6a+ on it.
My food discipline has been OK this week. A few beers for the footie and a couple of churros and chocolate on saturday, but i normally have 3 so it's OK. I am not dieting as i go crazy if i cut back but i am using the diet quality score from racing weight to make sure i cut out the crap.I've worked 5 days this week and taken sensible packed lunches so that's helped, as has kicking my can of coke a day habit.
I've run every day for half an hour apart from Friday when i was back too late and the footie was on. Temps are still in high 20's at 9pm so it's hard to find the time to run. 1/2 hour on the hills round here ( we live in the Mountains of Malaga region - it's hilly ) is as much as i can manage at the moment.
So end result has been a steady decrease in body fat on the scales from 13.4% to 12.4% this morning.
I am going to the local training crag this evening to test my elbow out, fingers crossed.
On another plus i've met another potential climbing partner Luis who as usual round here is a bloody good climber ( multiple 8b's ) but really nice and doesn't mind i am crap.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
M-The Tower - leading, First 7b at the Tower, second go. Felt great, climbed smoothly in control, which was needed for a couple of high rock overs.
T-Derby - cleaned up a 7a+, and fell off the last move of a 7b+, third try. Huge fall as I skipped the last clip.
However felt on the limit of overtraining, having climbed 7 out of 9 days.
W-rest
T-rest
F-The Foundry - didn't achieve much but tried loads on the main wall. A bit dissapointed by my sloppy route reading, just didn't flow well.
Dogged up an 8a for a laugh. Huge moves between good holds.
S-2.6 miles in boots with 7kg, ran slow at 8:25min miles, but happy with that as my first weighted run in a long time.
S-rest
Fairly average week, but very happy with my first 7b at the Tower, which usually has stiff grades.
M-The Tower - leading, First 7b at the Tower, second go. Felt great, climbed smoothly in control, which was needed for a couple of high rock overs.
T-Derby - cleaned up a 7a+, and fell off the last move of a 7b+, third try. Huge fall as I skipped the last clip.
However felt on the limit of overtraining, having climbed 7 out of 9 days.
W-rest
T-rest
F-The Foundry - didn't achieve much but tried loads on the main wall. A bit dissapointed by my sloppy route reading, just didn't flow well.
Dogged up an 8a for a laugh. Huge moves between good holds.
S-2.6 miles in boots with 7kg, ran slow at 8:25min miles, but happy with that as my first weighted run in a long time.
S-rest
Fairly average week, but very happy with my first 7b at the Tower, which usually has stiff grades.
In reply to biscuit:
I'll be an engineer officer, Aerosystems.
IOT straight after Uni. What were you going for?
I'll be an engineer officer, Aerosystems.
IOT straight after Uni. What were you going for?
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I was a golden boy jet jockey i'm afraid :0)
Went through air cadets, flying scholarship and PPL and then sponsored through uni. Had to pay the buggers back when i changed my mind though - that hurt.
Obviously that was my choice but still got friends in the job and they love it. It's a great life if it's for you. It took me until i was 20 to realise i could be dropping bombs on people one day - 1st gulf war with the 'collateral damage' etc. - and a couple of friends of mine had died in flying accidents and thought it was a pretty dangerous job. Just didn't feel right at the time and i had a confidence/moral wobble and backed out.
i do regret it now and then especially when i used to be on a crag in the Lakes and the jets would fly over on a beautiful day
I was a golden boy jet jockey i'm afraid :0)
Went through air cadets, flying scholarship and PPL and then sponsored through uni. Had to pay the buggers back when i changed my mind though - that hurt.
Obviously that was my choice but still got friends in the job and they love it. It's a great life if it's for you. It took me until i was 20 to realise i could be dropping bombs on people one day - 1st gulf war with the 'collateral damage' etc. - and a couple of friends of mine had died in flying accidents and thought it was a pretty dangerous job. Just didn't feel right at the time and i had a confidence/moral wobble and backed out.
i do regret it now and then especially when i used to be on a crag in the Lakes and the jets would fly over on a beautiful day
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. For the forseeable future I think I'm only ever likely to regard trad as a bit of fun, so don't expect to see me cruising any hard routes anytime soon - I'm leaving that to others on fit club
I am well psyched for continuing to push myself a bit more on sport though. Unfortunately from this point on, I think the bouldering requirements go up quite sharply, so I am going to have to go back to the training board a bit and get a bit stronger. Meanwhile there's tons of classic UK 7s which I am really psyched to do - stuff which is harder to access, a bit more adventurous, longer, harder to work, conditionsy, further from home, etc. (for anyone interested, I have a list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=419 ) so basically I need to rely less on being quite good at sieging things and be better at doing them quickly - ideally I'd like to be in a position where I can knock out 7b+/c in a day or a weekend. This is massively easier said than done but conveniently it also happens to be the base level for the next pyramid step up (8a+ wtf!?) and I reckon it's time well invested for the future, so I reckon this is going to be my outdoor routes focus for the rest of the year.
VSTG:
Nightmare Scenario
STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Learn to drive
MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
M:
T: Short boulder session at Castle. V tired, not very much achieved.
W: AM - stretching
T: Castle boulder. Bit more productive. PM - short weights session. Stretching.
F: PM - Stretching, biscuit factory boulder. Mostly working on comp problems.
S:
S:
Cheers Dan. For the forseeable future I think I'm only ever likely to regard trad as a bit of fun, so don't expect to see me cruising any hard routes anytime soon - I'm leaving that to others on fit club
I am well psyched for continuing to push myself a bit more on sport though. Unfortunately from this point on, I think the bouldering requirements go up quite sharply, so I am going to have to go back to the training board a bit and get a bit stronger. Meanwhile there's tons of classic UK 7s which I am really psyched to do - stuff which is harder to access, a bit more adventurous, longer, harder to work, conditionsy, further from home, etc. (for anyone interested, I have a list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=419 ) so basically I need to rely less on being quite good at sieging things and be better at doing them quickly - ideally I'd like to be in a position where I can knock out 7b+/c in a day or a weekend. This is massively easier said than done but conveniently it also happens to be the base level for the next pyramid step up (8a+ wtf!?) and I reckon it's time well invested for the future, so I reckon this is going to be my outdoor routes focus for the rest of the year.
VSTG:
Nightmare Scenario
STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Learn to drive
MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
M:
T: Short boulder session at Castle. V tired, not very much achieved.
W: AM - stretching
T: Castle boulder. Bit more productive. PM - short weights session. Stretching.
F: PM - Stretching, biscuit factory boulder. Mostly working on comp problems.
S:
S:
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Goals (by the end of 2012): 7b+ and a 7b in a single visit in the UK plus central ice fall to wobble block bit of the traverse at craig y longridge.
Just a couple of sessions this week as I was off doing non climbing stuff this weekend
Tues: Craig Y Longridge for a horizontal shuffling session. Midges were out a bit as were a host of strong climbers (not going to name drop but it was like a who's who of hard climbing past and present!). Furthest point reached on the bit of the traverse I'm trying, dropped it twice about 3 moves from the end but got some sneaky beta for the end bit which should mean I'll get it next time when fresh.
Thurs: indoor bouldering. Pieced together the 7c+ traverse which I can now get in 3 sections. Quite beyond me at the moment but will be interesting to see how far I can get on it before it's taken down. Finished off trying some harder boulder probs around V8. Surprised myself by getting to the last move of one of them, dropped it but felt pretty strong.
I'll only get a couple of sessions in the week coming, away all weekend again but I've got a free week off early July so if conditions are favourable I should get a few days out then.
Goals (by the end of 2012): 7b+ and a 7b in a single visit in the UK plus central ice fall to wobble block bit of the traverse at craig y longridge.
Just a couple of sessions this week as I was off doing non climbing stuff this weekend
Tues: Craig Y Longridge for a horizontal shuffling session. Midges were out a bit as were a host of strong climbers (not going to name drop but it was like a who's who of hard climbing past and present!). Furthest point reached on the bit of the traverse I'm trying, dropped it twice about 3 moves from the end but got some sneaky beta for the end bit which should mean I'll get it next time when fresh.
Thurs: indoor bouldering. Pieced together the 7c+ traverse which I can now get in 3 sections. Quite beyond me at the moment but will be interesting to see how far I can get on it before it's taken down. Finished off trying some harder boulder probs around V8. Surprised myself by getting to the last move of one of them, dropped it but felt pretty strong.
I'll only get a couple of sessions in the week coming, away all weekend again but I've got a free week off early July so if conditions are favourable I should get a few days out then.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
oh yea and if anyone wants to see some alternate climbing training if your injured check out ricky bell here:
vimeo.com/42893621
oh yea and if anyone wants to see some alternate climbing training if your injured check out ricky bell here:
vimeo.com/42893621
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: Nothing
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(4). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 13(92)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Maintenance (1/3)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core
Wed: ARC. Repeaters -2 sets.
Thu: Weights. Core.
Fri: ARC. Repeaters.
Sat: Clip drop practice & some bouldering (max V5).
Sun: Repeaters. ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Thanks Dan. Realized I am about to hit my key period for climbing so am just going to maintain fitness for a while.
Rain stopped play this week. Monday night Chee Dale was soaking. Cancelled my day trip to the lakes on Friday due to weather. Bit concerned that I have the majority of my climbing holiday days booked over the next 3 weeks and the weather is set to remain "changeable".
Went a bit obsessive with the repeaters this week. Wanted to see if I could obtain my PB set at the end of the strength phase. I can but only because PE has improved so I do better in the second half of the set, there is a definate dip in the first half of the set when the grip types are at their hardest.
Upped the ARC problem I use. Seems much harder than previous, it's no longer a good warm-up, too hard for that. I like it, its very much SOS for feet with thin crimps and slopers for hands, small moves though. Just about manageable from an endurance perspective.
STG: Nothing
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(4). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 13(92)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Maintenance (1/3)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core
Wed: ARC. Repeaters -2 sets.
Thu: Weights. Core.
Fri: ARC. Repeaters.
Sat: Clip drop practice & some bouldering (max V5).
Sun: Repeaters. ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Thanks Dan. Realized I am about to hit my key period for climbing so am just going to maintain fitness for a while.
Rain stopped play this week. Monday night Chee Dale was soaking. Cancelled my day trip to the lakes on Friday due to weather. Bit concerned that I have the majority of my climbing holiday days booked over the next 3 weeks and the weather is set to remain "changeable".
Went a bit obsessive with the repeaters this week. Wanted to see if I could obtain my PB set at the end of the strength phase. I can but only because PE has improved so I do better in the second half of the set, there is a definate dip in the first half of the set when the grip types are at their hardest.
Upped the ARC problem I use. Seems much harder than previous, it's no longer a good warm-up, too hard for that. I like it, its very much SOS for feet with thin crimps and slopers for hands, small moves though. Just about manageable from an endurance perspective.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel. Not a lot to report this week, due to taking it easy due to my hopefully minor injury.
M - Rest.
T - Rest.
W - Rest.
T - 14 miles. More than I planned and got a bit carried away, calf was very sore at the end.
F - Rest.
S - Rest.
S - Rest.
I think I am OK now, taking it easy the last couple of days was just precautionary. Should be back running tomorrow.
Thanks Daniel. Not a lot to report this week, due to taking it easy due to my hopefully minor injury.
M - Rest.
T - Rest.
W - Rest.
T - 14 miles. More than I planned and got a bit carried away, calf was very sore at the end.
F - Rest.
S - Rest.
S - Rest.
I think I am OK now, taking it easy the last couple of days was just precautionary. Should be back running tomorrow.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan.
Not a bad week for me.
Monday - TCA. Felt a bit down powered but plugged away, got some ok stuff done by the end. Lots of stuff on the steep board.
Tuesday - Nowt
Wednesday - had to blow off an evening out because of overwork. 730am start 630pm finish whoot
Thursday - TCA. Really good session. Got a bit of circuit stuff done to start. Got a load of blues done and 2 yellows as well, very soft ones though. Also got on the campus board. Nailed 1-3-5 with either arm, and managed a new PB - 1-3.5-5.5 hit on one arm and tickled with the other. Felt utterly battered by the end.
Saturday - TCA again. A few more blues, plus hit but didn't quite hold the final hold of the blue roof on my second go, not my usual thing. Got on the campus board again, didn't quite latch 1-3.5-5.5 again but tickled it several times. Also managed to tickle but not hold 1-3-5 on the smaller rungs. In both cases I can get the distance mainly but just not quite latch them. It's coming along though.
Sunday - Cheddar. Back on Draggin Along. Met Kevster too which was good - always nice to put another face and name together. Had something like a half dozen redpoints in the end over the day. One total cockup, once didnt quite hit the crux properly, once to the lip (through hardest moves) but couldn't clip, once or twice to the lip and clipped. Also a new high point - managed to get to move 8, only 2 moves from the end of the crux! Took the fall from there rather than try the moves as I think I needed to settle my head.
So a good week. Campus board progress is nice to see and weight is coming down quite nicely.
Most importantly though, I reckon Draggin Along is down to a matter of percentages. If I keep plugging away I will do it, it just depends when - if I get a good go like today's high point and push on I know I can be up into the last moves before it eases. Fingers crossed I can get enough sessions in really.
Pleased with it, all told. Fingers crossed for another session this week.
Cheers Dan.
Not a bad week for me.
Monday - TCA. Felt a bit down powered but plugged away, got some ok stuff done by the end. Lots of stuff on the steep board.
Tuesday - Nowt
Wednesday - had to blow off an evening out because of overwork. 730am start 630pm finish whoot
Thursday - TCA. Really good session. Got a bit of circuit stuff done to start. Got a load of blues done and 2 yellows as well, very soft ones though. Also got on the campus board. Nailed 1-3-5 with either arm, and managed a new PB - 1-3.5-5.5 hit on one arm and tickled with the other. Felt utterly battered by the end.
Saturday - TCA again. A few more blues, plus hit but didn't quite hold the final hold of the blue roof on my second go, not my usual thing. Got on the campus board again, didn't quite latch 1-3.5-5.5 again but tickled it several times. Also managed to tickle but not hold 1-3-5 on the smaller rungs. In both cases I can get the distance mainly but just not quite latch them. It's coming along though.
Sunday - Cheddar. Back on Draggin Along. Met Kevster too which was good - always nice to put another face and name together. Had something like a half dozen redpoints in the end over the day. One total cockup, once didnt quite hit the crux properly, once to the lip (through hardest moves) but couldn't clip, once or twice to the lip and clipped. Also a new high point - managed to get to move 8, only 2 moves from the end of the crux! Took the fall from there rather than try the moves as I think I needed to settle my head.
So a good week. Campus board progress is nice to see and weight is coming down quite nicely.
Most importantly though, I reckon Draggin Along is down to a matter of percentages. If I keep plugging away I will do it, it just depends when - if I get a good go like today's high point and push on I know I can be up into the last moves before it eases. Fingers crossed I can get enough sessions in really.
Pleased with it, all told. Fingers crossed for another session this week.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel!
Finally finished in London Friday - it's like the body shut down on me and said enough. Everything aches and I could have slept all weekend!
M - Rest day, needed after the weekend.
T - 23 minute dead 5k. Very happy with that as I didn't try.
W - 8.5k in 46 minutes. Felt easy after a hard day. Strange.
T - Warm up then stretching.
F - Rest. Knackered.
S - Parkrun Northampton for the first time. Went too slow and sprinted like a mad man the last 200m. 24m 10s. Was gonna go for a run in the arvo but shattered.
S - Utterly pooped. Quads ache, achilles hurts and no energy. Rest it is.
It's the Ultra on Saturday, all 69 miles of it. Nervous, excited, confident and feeling woefully unprepared. I can do the time on feet but can I be quick enough? We'll see. I'll be glad when it's over and I can get back to trying to climb.
With that in mind, I need to set some goals. The first half of this year started with soloing down a D+ alpine route and is going to end with a 69 mile Ultra, I'm not hoping for anything like as dramatic.
Very STG - Finish Ultra
STG - Climb well in Switzerland
MTG - Feel good on English 4c and try to lead a few 5b routes, even if easy touches.
LTG - Ideas anyone? Triathlon, marathon, sub 22min 5k? Be a decent french 6a leader indoor.
Finally finished in London Friday - it's like the body shut down on me and said enough. Everything aches and I could have slept all weekend!
M - Rest day, needed after the weekend.
T - 23 minute dead 5k. Very happy with that as I didn't try.
W - 8.5k in 46 minutes. Felt easy after a hard day. Strange.
T - Warm up then stretching.
F - Rest. Knackered.
S - Parkrun Northampton for the first time. Went too slow and sprinted like a mad man the last 200m. 24m 10s. Was gonna go for a run in the arvo but shattered.
S - Utterly pooped. Quads ache, achilles hurts and no energy. Rest it is.
It's the Ultra on Saturday, all 69 miles of it. Nervous, excited, confident and feeling woefully unprepared. I can do the time on feet but can I be quick enough? We'll see. I'll be glad when it's over and I can get back to trying to climb.
With that in mind, I need to set some goals. The first half of this year started with soloing down a D+ alpine route and is going to end with a 69 mile Ultra, I'm not hoping for anything like as dramatic.
Very STG - Finish Ultra
STG - Climb well in Switzerland
MTG - Feel good on English 4c and try to lead a few 5b routes, even if easy touches.
LTG - Ideas anyone? Triathlon, marathon, sub 22min 5k? Be a decent french 6a leader indoor.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers,
A poor week for me time wise, managed no time at the wall in the week, or any other exercise for that matter.
Sat did a couple of hours bouldering at Bristol Church, met some friendly people and had fun on the problems. I can tell I don't boulder much! Mid 6's being the best I achieved.
Sunday afternoon had a few hours at Cheddar (Thanks AJM) which was definitly a bonus and unexpected. Not the best performance, but repeated a 7a (to fall off at the chains with a no longer loose hold in my hand) and dogged a 7a+. The 7a+ needs some work to tick clean.
Psyche is a bit low atm, maybe over work or just lack of time on real rock. New routes at the wall again soon.
Hopes for this week: Climb once, and try not to waste myself for the weekend - north wales trad and slate trip.
Thanks, Kev.
Cheers,
A poor week for me time wise, managed no time at the wall in the week, or any other exercise for that matter.
Sat did a couple of hours bouldering at Bristol Church, met some friendly people and had fun on the problems. I can tell I don't boulder much! Mid 6's being the best I achieved.
Sunday afternoon had a few hours at Cheddar (Thanks AJM) which was definitly a bonus and unexpected. Not the best performance, but repeated a 7a (to fall off at the chains with a no longer loose hold in my hand) and dogged a 7a+. The 7a+ needs some work to tick clean.
Psyche is a bit low atm, maybe over work or just lack of time on real rock. New routes at the wall again soon.
Hopes for this week: Climb once, and try not to waste myself for the weekend - north wales trad and slate trip.
Thanks, Kev.
In reply to mrchewy:
Good luck for Sunday. You have the mental strength for sure and that's what counts when the chips are down. Is it cut off times you're worried about ?
Good luck for Sunday. You have the mental strength for sure and that's what counts when the chips are down. Is it cut off times you're worried about ?
In reply to Daniel Heath: Hi Dan, wow you are on fire at the moment. Just wish I had a bit more free time! STG is 7b but no rush, just need to find the right route.
Had a good training week, just need to get out a bit more.
M - Run 30 mins, core stability 30 mins, bouldering 2 hrs (30 problems, 6c traverse, worked a 6b+ (font))
T - Run 30 mins, weights, Caving 2 hrs
W - Bouldering 1.5 hrs (20 problems, worked a 6a (UK))
T - Run 25 mins, core stability, pull ups
F - Run 30 mins, weights
S - Bouldering 2 hrs (38 problems, 7a traverse x 3, worked 6c (font)) Good session with noticeable improvement
S - Run 1.5 hrs, Routes sport x 6 6a - 6c all onsight
Off to N Wales at the weekend so I hope the weather behaves!
Had a good training week, just need to get out a bit more.
M - Run 30 mins, core stability 30 mins, bouldering 2 hrs (30 problems, 6c traverse, worked a 6b+ (font))
T - Run 30 mins, weights, Caving 2 hrs
W - Bouldering 1.5 hrs (20 problems, worked a 6a (UK))
T - Run 25 mins, core stability, pull ups
F - Run 30 mins, weights
S - Bouldering 2 hrs (38 problems, 7a traverse x 3, worked 6c (font)) Good session with noticeable improvement
S - Run 1.5 hrs, Routes sport x 6 6a - 6c all onsight
Off to N Wales at the weekend so I hope the weather behaves!
In reply to biscuit: Thanks! Just a bit miffed work has messed up training but there'll be a few in that boat no doubt. When I first saw the cutoff times I was pretty nervous but it just means battering away for the first 32 miles of the race - it's obviously more uphill than down and that's where my strength is. Relentless forward motion.
How's the elbow?
How's the elbow?
In reply to Daniel Heath:
This is what it means to onsight sport routes well
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DACDNSnpW2Q&feature=related
This is what it means to onsight sport routes well
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DACDNSnpW2Q&feature=related
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Smooth climbing
On a related note, interest blog from Dave Mac this week about basically how important it can be to make training weaknesses into something that somehow you love doing. Worth a look.
Smooth climbing
On a related note, interest blog from Dave Mac this week about basically how important it can be to make training weaknesses into something that somehow you love doing. Worth a look.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for the stats Dan. Hope you enjoy your trip away.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, DQS week avg 20 or better.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - No idea, scales haven't surfaced yet - will buy some new ones this week.
M - F - Knee rehab
S - Rest
S - Rest
Diet Quality Scores
M - 17
T - 20
W - 20
T - 16
F - 16
S - low
S - even lower
Diet quality is hard! It's definitely a big improvement over the single figure scores I started with. However the wife isn't massively keen on me 'trying a daft diet' so struggled over the weekend, as she wanted me to eat the same stuff as her. Wouldn't say I've got her on board there. Still, it's been an ok week dietwise. Hopefully it's had an effect. Aiming for an average of 20 next week.
Been a busy weekend. Supposed to be going bouldering today, but we ended up driving to Ross-on-Wye to sell our old car. Glad that's done. Spent the week rehabbing the knee loads. Lots of stretches, icing and foam rollers.
Went to the physio on Friday. She was pretty decent. But basically confirmed what I knew, weak Glutes and poor core, causing the knee pain. She wasn't 100% that it was ITBS, as she wasn't able to get the pain to come back, as it's gone now. She said to work hard on lunges and a odd variation on squats and see how things go. On the upside, the muscles immediately around my knee are quite good, no imbalances there.
In shocking other news, the wife has agreed to come to the climbing wall with me. This could bode well for winter training! Even if she only climbs indoors, that'll be good.
Mrchewy - Good luck for the ultra. Positive vibes from here. It's a great part of the world to be running through and I'm sure you'll 'enjoy' it. If you want to do it, you will. It's mostly mental. Also, it seems like you've got a really good training base in there. So I'm sure you'll be fine!
However as I'm sitting here nursing my ultra injury, if the pain gets really bad with an injury, think, do you really want to spend the rest of the summer being injured just to finish? Don't want to put a downer on your race, but don't want you to end up like me and to be honest, I'm kind of regretting pushing through what was obviously an injury just to finish. I want to go back and actually run one and not hobble round one. However you've actually trained and it's a pretty flat race. So fingers crossed! Good luck! I'm really rooting for you to get round. Was gutted that Nick didn't manage his ultra, so want you to get in there an do it!
Thanks for the stats Dan. Hope you enjoy your trip away.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, DQS week avg 20 or better.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - No idea, scales haven't surfaced yet - will buy some new ones this week.
M - F - Knee rehab
S - Rest
S - Rest
Diet Quality Scores
M - 17
T - 20
W - 20
T - 16
F - 16
S - low
S - even lower
Diet quality is hard! It's definitely a big improvement over the single figure scores I started with. However the wife isn't massively keen on me 'trying a daft diet' so struggled over the weekend, as she wanted me to eat the same stuff as her. Wouldn't say I've got her on board there. Still, it's been an ok week dietwise. Hopefully it's had an effect. Aiming for an average of 20 next week.
Been a busy weekend. Supposed to be going bouldering today, but we ended up driving to Ross-on-Wye to sell our old car. Glad that's done. Spent the week rehabbing the knee loads. Lots of stretches, icing and foam rollers.
Went to the physio on Friday. She was pretty decent. But basically confirmed what I knew, weak Glutes and poor core, causing the knee pain. She wasn't 100% that it was ITBS, as she wasn't able to get the pain to come back, as it's gone now. She said to work hard on lunges and a odd variation on squats and see how things go. On the upside, the muscles immediately around my knee are quite good, no imbalances there.
In shocking other news, the wife has agreed to come to the climbing wall with me. This could bode well for winter training! Even if she only climbs indoors, that'll be good.
Mrchewy - Good luck for the ultra. Positive vibes from here. It's a great part of the world to be running through and I'm sure you'll 'enjoy' it. If you want to do it, you will. It's mostly mental. Also, it seems like you've got a really good training base in there. So I'm sure you'll be fine!
However as I'm sitting here nursing my ultra injury, if the pain gets really bad with an injury, think, do you really want to spend the rest of the summer being injured just to finish? Don't want to put a downer on your race, but don't want you to end up like me and to be honest, I'm kind of regretting pushing through what was obviously an injury just to finish. I want to go back and actually run one and not hobble round one. However you've actually trained and it's a pretty flat race. So fingers crossed! Good luck! I'm really rooting for you to get round. Was gutted that Nick didn't manage his ultra, so want you to get in there an do it!
In reply to mattrm:
m: am: 10 mile run, 7 min miling, felt OK.. pm: flight to UK
t: 8.7 mile trail run off transatlantic flight.. tired.
w: lunch: 5.5 mile road run. pm: 9 mile fell run, 600m ascent.
t: 31 mile road bike ride. pm: 9 mile trail run with 2 x 6 min hill reps.
f: 7.5 mile trail run, with 2 x 6 min up hill reps.
s: 17 mile trail run Gwydyr forest, awful weather. 750m ascent.
s: 10 mile race. Llandudno. 57:13. Counter in winning team for welsh champs. happy enough with run. pm: 31 mile mile road bike ride. felt strong.
m: am: 10 mile run, 7 min miling, felt OK.. pm: flight to UK
t: 8.7 mile trail run off transatlantic flight.. tired.
w: lunch: 5.5 mile road run. pm: 9 mile fell run, 600m ascent.
t: 31 mile road bike ride. pm: 9 mile trail run with 2 x 6 min hill reps.
f: 7.5 mile trail run, with 2 x 6 min up hill reps.
s: 17 mile trail run Gwydyr forest, awful weather. 750m ascent.
s: 10 mile race. Llandudno. 57:13. Counter in winning team for welsh champs. happy enough with run. pm: 31 mile mile road bike ride. felt strong.
In reply to biscuit:
Its The whole being closer to 30 than 20 and still just strolling along no idea what I want to do with my life, etc. (saying that been working in engineering at the same company for 8 years now ...)
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Grubes - why are you not looking forward to your birthday ? 26 is nothing - have a look at the thread about old boulderers and the celebrating 50 yrs of climbing one. Hope the weather holds.
> Grubes - why are you not looking forward to your birthday ? 26 is nothing - have a look at the thread about old boulderers and the celebrating 50 yrs of climbing one. Hope the weather holds.
Its The whole being closer to 30 than 20 and still just strolling along no idea what I want to do with my life, etc. (saying that been working in engineering at the same company for 8 years now ...)
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan. Good advice re E1 = 6a, that might help bring it down a bit...
STG (by August): lead E1, RP 7a+
MTG (August/Sept): do trek
LTG (November): 6c/6c+ onsight on sport trip
Mon: nowt
Tues: ingleton bouldering after midge attack at Moughton
Wed: cycle commute
Thurs: Panorama, onsight up to 6b, then clean beta lead of a Fr6c and TR a 7a.
Fri: nowt
Sat: crappy wall session at beacon
Sun: Gogarth North stack, 2nd Emulator (E1 5b) and lead onsight The Gauntlet (HVS 5a)
Booked a trek for August, going to India for 3 weeks to tramp up Lungser Kangri. I was a bit reluctant to go cos I won't get to climb for 3 weeks but I emailed Nik Jennings and sorted out a plan which should mean I get back motivated, inspired and without having lost too much climbing fitness. Plan being to RP hard routes and keep on at the trad before I go and then book a sport trip for 8/9 weeks after I get back, which I can start training for as soon as I get back. So all good really. And another shout for Nik as a great coach, if anyone is considering a session or holiday, I'd deffo recommend him (as would Grubes I'm sure).
Good day at Panorama on Thursday. Got a 6c first go but I wouldn't call it onsight because (1) the clips were in and (2) I watched my mate have a couple of goes at it first. And it was low end 6c.
Fantastic day at Gogarth yesterday. I was thinking about leading the E1, The Emulator, but decided before going down that I wouldn't, it would have been my first route at Gogarth in a long while so I thought I should take it easy and not jump on an E1. Slightly regretted that when I got to the route as it looks totally do-able. Harder than it looks though, I probably saved myself a bit of gibbering.... And the Gauntlet was good too.
Thanks Dan. Good advice re E1 = 6a, that might help bring it down a bit...
STG (by August): lead E1, RP 7a+
MTG (August/Sept): do trek
LTG (November): 6c/6c+ onsight on sport trip
Mon: nowt
Tues: ingleton bouldering after midge attack at Moughton
Wed: cycle commute
Thurs: Panorama, onsight up to 6b, then clean beta lead of a Fr6c and TR a 7a.
Fri: nowt
Sat: crappy wall session at beacon
Sun: Gogarth North stack, 2nd Emulator (E1 5b) and lead onsight The Gauntlet (HVS 5a)
Booked a trek for August, going to India for 3 weeks to tramp up Lungser Kangri. I was a bit reluctant to go cos I won't get to climb for 3 weeks but I emailed Nik Jennings and sorted out a plan which should mean I get back motivated, inspired and without having lost too much climbing fitness. Plan being to RP hard routes and keep on at the trad before I go and then book a sport trip for 8/9 weeks after I get back, which I can start training for as soon as I get back. So all good really. And another shout for Nik as a great coach, if anyone is considering a session or holiday, I'd deffo recommend him (as would Grubes I'm sure).
Good day at Panorama on Thursday. Got a 6c first go but I wouldn't call it onsight because (1) the clips were in and (2) I watched my mate have a couple of goes at it first. And it was low end 6c.
Fantastic day at Gogarth yesterday. I was thinking about leading the E1, The Emulator, but decided before going down that I wouldn't, it would have been my first route at Gogarth in a long while so I thought I should take it easy and not jump on an E1. Slightly regretted that when I got to the route as it looks totally do-able. Harder than it looks though, I probably saved myself a bit of gibbering.... And the Gauntlet was good too.
In reply to grubes:
If it's any consolation, I think it's a very common feeling. And one that I think is going to get more common. I'm guessing from what you're saying, you didn't go to uni, but there's a whole generation of people who've been cosseted at school and then uni. Now they're out there trying to get on with life, things seem a lot less certain.
I've just hit 30 and I've really been feeling what you're feeling. What's the point. Why am I bothering? I'm even having a 'why am I bothering' moment with climbing. What should I do with my life. I don't think anyone knows. I don't think even the confident types who seem to know exactly what they're doing know. I just think they're better at ignoring the nagging doubt that you're not doing enough/not doing the right thing.
Tot up the positives and then try and take it from there. Looking at your blog, you can climb to a pretty good standard (I've been climbing for 3 years and still struggle seconding some VSes), you've got a job, a house, enough money to buy food and clothes, live near some really decent climbing, seem fairly fit and healthy, I can assume have a decent family and if any of the ladies on your blog the current Mrs Grubes, then you're not doing badly on that front either! That's what I do when I'm feeling grim, tot up the good stuff and think that shed loads of other people have it a lot worse.
No answers there, sorry (if you find 'the answer' you'll be a billionaire overnight, cause it's the question *everyone* tries to answer!) but hopefully there's some food for thought there.
If it's any consolation, I think it's a very common feeling. And one that I think is going to get more common. I'm guessing from what you're saying, you didn't go to uni, but there's a whole generation of people who've been cosseted at school and then uni. Now they're out there trying to get on with life, things seem a lot less certain.
I've just hit 30 and I've really been feeling what you're feeling. What's the point. Why am I bothering? I'm even having a 'why am I bothering' moment with climbing. What should I do with my life. I don't think anyone knows. I don't think even the confident types who seem to know exactly what they're doing know. I just think they're better at ignoring the nagging doubt that you're not doing enough/not doing the right thing.
Tot up the positives and then try and take it from there. Looking at your blog, you can climb to a pretty good standard (I've been climbing for 3 years and still struggle seconding some VSes), you've got a job, a house, enough money to buy food and clothes, live near some really decent climbing, seem fairly fit and healthy, I can assume have a decent family and if any of the ladies on your blog the current Mrs Grubes, then you're not doing badly on that front either! That's what I do when I'm feeling grim, tot up the good stuff and think that shed loads of other people have it a lot worse.
No answers there, sorry (if you find 'the answer' you'll be a billionaire overnight, cause it's the question *everyone* tries to answer!) but hopefully there's some food for thought there.
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt - much appreciated. I reckon I'd feel under trained even if I trained like Iain does every week, I never do enough to make myself happy. There's been lots of stuff that all adds up that I haven't put down on here because it would make no sense to anyone else but I know from the DOMS I've had, that the leg work has been put in if not specific distance running.
If I do half of what Nick did - that's my race done and dusted and in the bag! I can't visualize his challenge at all, staggering.
Injury-wise? To all intents and purposes, I'll be starting injured. I was hit by a 3.5 tonne van head on 5 years ago whilst on my bike (his fault) and he then basically drove up my leg and parked on my chest. I've had serious issues with injury since and 8 ops too, 3 of which have been on the right leg, so it's been all about injury management for me this last six months. I'm a bit of a bully when it comes to pushing my broken body in the past and it's responded well but I'll be keeping your words in mind. I've a trip to the Alps just two weeks after! I need to be fit enough to climb haha.
If I do half of what Nick did - that's my race done and dusted and in the bag! I can't visualize his challenge at all, staggering.
Injury-wise? To all intents and purposes, I'll be starting injured. I was hit by a 3.5 tonne van head on 5 years ago whilst on my bike (his fault) and he then basically drove up my leg and parked on my chest. I've had serious issues with injury since and 8 ops too, 3 of which have been on the right leg, so it's been all about injury management for me this last six months. I'm a bit of a bully when it comes to pushing my broken body in the past and it's responded well but I'll be keeping your words in mind. I've a trip to the Alps just two weeks after! I need to be fit enough to climb haha.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I believe we live in roughly the same area (based on your walls/crag choices!) and if you're looking to get some redpointing in I'd be happy to show you some decent 7a+s in yorkshire. I'm off the whole week commencing 2nd July (and probably free both weekends around that week) so if you're free drop me an email with your number.
I believe we live in roughly the same area (based on your walls/crag choices!) and if you're looking to get some redpointing in I'd be happy to show you some decent 7a+s in yorkshire. I'm off the whole week commencing 2nd July (and probably free both weekends around that week) so if you're free drop me an email with your number.
In reply to grubes: I turned 45 18 months ago... the whole nearer 60 than 30 thing hit me then.
It's made no difference to my life at all. I've tried plans before but life has a way of changing them anyway, sometimes for the better but not always. All I can say is - make sure you 'see' every opportunity that presents itself, don't blinker yourself like a race horses. I'm a crap climber, I really am but I have a chance to go cragging in the Alps with Joe Mohle, no. 3 in the 8a world trad rankings in a couple of weeks time. Why? Because I'm outgoing and don't have fixed plans and goals and because of that, I always seem to end up on some mad mission or other. The Ultra run this weekend was someone else's idea but I'll be doing it on my own now... wouldn't change a thing at all.
Plan for tomorrow but remember to live for today, as tomorrow never comes. Cheesy as that - but it's true. Jeez - I so wish I was still 26!
It's made no difference to my life at all. I've tried plans before but life has a way of changing them anyway, sometimes for the better but not always. All I can say is - make sure you 'see' every opportunity that presents itself, don't blinker yourself like a race horses. I'm a crap climber, I really am but I have a chance to go cragging in the Alps with Joe Mohle, no. 3 in the 8a world trad rankings in a couple of weeks time. Why? Because I'm outgoing and don't have fixed plans and goals and because of that, I always seem to end up on some mad mission or other. The Ultra run this weekend was someone else's idea but I'll be doing it on my own now... wouldn't change a thing at all.
Plan for tomorrow but remember to live for today, as tomorrow never comes. Cheesy as that - but it's true. Jeez - I so wish I was still 26!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Plan being to RP hard routes and keep on at the trad before I go and then book a sport trip for 8/9 weeks after I get back, which I can start training for as soon as I get back. So all good really.
Strangely enough me and a mate are heading to el chorro in late october so that would just about fit in if you fancy chorro. > Plan being to RP hard routes and keep on at the trad before I go and then book a sport trip for 8/9 weeks after I get back, which I can start training for as soon as I get back. So all good really.
In reply to mattrm and mrchewy:
New plan though is to jump out of a plan in the next 12 months free fall not tandem. Something I have wanted to do since I was 12 so about time I got round to it.
> (In reply to grubes)
Cheers guys. Yeah just need to keep going will probably be alright next weekend after the day and will just feel the same.> if any of the ladies on your blog the current Mrs Grubes, then you're not doing badly on that front either!
no all mates. That front is pretty quiet to be honest New plan though is to jump out of a plan in the next 12 months free fall not tandem. Something I have wanted to do since I was 12 so about time I got round to it.
In reply to grubes:
El Chorro would be good but not sure late October is late enough. When are you going? 27 Oct or the week before? I remember you saying you are going out there, staying at the Olive Branch? It's a great spot..
El Chorro would be good but not sure late October is late enough. When are you going? 27 Oct or the week before? I remember you saying you are going out there, staying at the Olive Branch? It's a great spot..
In reply to grubes:
Gulp!!
> New plan though is to jump out of a plan in the next 12 months free fall not tandem.
Gulp!!
In reply to grubes:
I think we've gotten to the bottom of the problem then
Seriously tho, if you've got a bit of spare cash floating around and no relationships that would nag you if you stuffed off on a roadtrip, what about taking some time out of the rat race to do a bit of a road trip? Get out do some travelling, do lots of climbing. I know two people about the same age of you who did the Hot Rock tour around South America a while back and they loved it. Neither of them have had massive troubles getting back into jobs after it either. At the age of 25 before you've done the whole, wife, kids and mortgage thing, it's the time to do it!
Mrchewy - Yeah, hope I've not put a downer on your psyche. I think as you actually do a decent amount of running (certainly loads more than I did) and yeah, I remember you saying about your accident. I'm sure it'll go well. I'm currently stressing about my Alps trip as well, hope I'm better by then! (Zermatt for 9 days at the end of July).
> (In reply to mattrm and mrchewy)
> no all mates. That front is pretty quiet to be honest
>
> New plan though is to jump out of a plan in the next 12 months free fall not tandem. Something I have wanted to do since I was 12 so about time I got round to it.
>
> New plan though is to jump out of a plan in the next 12 months free fall not tandem. Something I have wanted to do since I was 12 so about time I got round to it.
I think we've gotten to the bottom of the problem then
Seriously tho, if you've got a bit of spare cash floating around and no relationships that would nag you if you stuffed off on a roadtrip, what about taking some time out of the rat race to do a bit of a road trip? Get out do some travelling, do lots of climbing. I know two people about the same age of you who did the Hot Rock tour around South America a while back and they loved it. Neither of them have had massive troubles getting back into jobs after it either. At the age of 25 before you've done the whole, wife, kids and mortgage thing, it's the time to do it!
Mrchewy - Yeah, hope I've not put a downer on your psyche. I think as you actually do a decent amount of running (certainly loads more than I did) and yeah, I remember you saying about your accident. I'm sure it'll go well. I'm currently stressing about my Alps trip as well, hope I'm better by then! (Zermatt for 9 days at the end of July).
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - 5.83m treadmill, 0ft.
T - nothing.
W - 5.02m trail run, 616ft.
T - nothing.
F - 5.02m trail run, 617ft.
S - 7.21m trail run, 1,312ft.
S - nothing.
Not a great week, I want to be doing atleast 30 miles and there should be quite a lot of ascent in that also.
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - 5.83m treadmill, 0ft.
T - nothing.
W - 5.02m trail run, 616ft.
T - nothing.
F - 5.02m trail run, 617ft.
S - 7.21m trail run, 1,312ft.
S - nothing.
Not a great week, I want to be doing atleast 30 miles and there should be quite a lot of ascent in that also.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Well I am booked in 17th to 24th but my mate keeps changing the days she can go.
Yea love the olive branch stayed there twice before.
Trying to decide whether to hire a car or not this time as it would be nice to try some of the venues out towards biscuit. He mentioned something of a grim painful 7a+ slab I think it could be fun to take lobs off(down).
> (In reply to grubes)
>
> El Chorro would be good but not sure late October is late enough. When are you going? 27 Oct or the week before? I remember you saying you are going out there, staying at the Olive Branch? It's a great spot..
>
> El Chorro would be good but not sure late October is late enough. When are you going? 27 Oct or the week before? I remember you saying you are going out there, staying at the Olive Branch? It's a great spot..
Well I am booked in 17th to 24th but my mate keeps changing the days she can go.
Yea love the olive branch stayed there twice before.
Trying to decide whether to hire a car or not this time as it would be nice to try some of the venues out towards biscuit. He mentioned something of a grim painful 7a+ slab I think it could be fun to take lobs off(down).
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Might be getting a group together to hit Montsant and Siurana 2nd week of November or so.
Might be getting a group together to hit Montsant and Siurana 2nd week of November or so.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers.
5 days commuting by bike plus:
Mon: Nothing (bit of a cold so rested)
Tue: 12.5k progressive run
Wed: 18k easy run
Thu: 72k cycle with harder effort in middle (popped towards end)
Fri: Nothing
Sat, Sun: Short walk around Hadrian's wall area.
A much lighter week. OK early on, but as I was away for my dad's 60th I knew I wasn't going to get a lot in over the weekend. Surprised that my legs felt ok for that long on the bike of an evening on Thurday, but I'm still not convinced I've got the leg power at the moment to sustainably push bigger gears on the bike, so I'm not sure I'll be quite as fast as last year come Ripon Tri. I may bias the training more toward the cycling until then though, in the hope improving my performance.
I'm hoping to go for a fast 10k next weekend (either Manchester or Plattfield), so will be resting a couple of days before. Otherwise I may try a harder few days early in the week, excepting Wednesday when it will all be about spectating Otley Races (is anyone else going?). This may turn into another fairly light week, volume wise.
5 days commuting by bike plus:
Mon: Nothing (bit of a cold so rested)
Tue: 12.5k progressive run
Wed: 18k easy run
Thu: 72k cycle with harder effort in middle (popped towards end)
Fri: Nothing
Sat, Sun: Short walk around Hadrian's wall area.
A much lighter week. OK early on, but as I was away for my dad's 60th I knew I wasn't going to get a lot in over the weekend. Surprised that my legs felt ok for that long on the bike of an evening on Thurday, but I'm still not convinced I've got the leg power at the moment to sustainably push bigger gears on the bike, so I'm not sure I'll be quite as fast as last year come Ripon Tri. I may bias the training more toward the cycling until then though, in the hope improving my performance.
I'm hoping to go for a fast 10k next weekend (either Manchester or Plattfield), so will be resting a couple of days before. Otherwise I may try a harder few days early in the week, excepting Wednesday when it will all be about spectating Otley Races (is anyone else going?). This may turn into another fairly light week, volume wise.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Odd week, didn't fancy cycling to work so did a bit of running and accidentally got a new pb for 5 k.
m:
t: running 5.00 km (ran home from work)
w: running 5.36 km (ran to work)
t: running 5.01 km (along the canal tow path - 23:22 new pb!)
f:
s: drinking - with my sons
s: drinking - with my dad
Quite puzzled about the pb, normally I run slower alone than at the parkrun. This seemed to just come from nowhere.
Odd week, didn't fancy cycling to work so did a bit of running and accidentally got a new pb for 5 k.
m:
t: running 5.00 km (ran home from work)
w: running 5.36 km (ran to work)
t: running 5.01 km (along the canal tow path - 23:22 new pb!)
f:
s: drinking - with my sons
s: drinking - with my dad
Quite puzzled about the pb, normally I run slower alone than at the parkrun. This seemed to just come from nowhere.
In reply to grubes:
not sure taking lobs off a 7a+ slab would be my idea of fun! Have you been to Desplomilandia? I thought it was ace there, some really good and inspiring routes. It's a drive from the Olive Branch though.
not sure taking lobs off a 7a+ slab would be my idea of fun! Have you been to Desplomilandia? I thought it was ace there, some really good and inspiring routes. It's a drive from the Olive Branch though.
In reply to AJM:
siurana you say? is this an open invite might try and find some holiday from somewhere if it is
> (In reply to Nomics4sale)
>
> Might be getting a group together to hit Montsant and Siurana 2nd week of November or so.
>
> Might be getting a group together to hit Montsant and Siurana 2nd week of November or so.
siurana you say? is this an open invite might try and find some holiday from somewhere if it is
In reply to Nomics4sale: no i have always done chorro without a car before so not checked out desplo. It's one of the reasons I am keen
In reply to Daniel Heath: First time in one of these threads.
Tue: Bouldering downstairs MCC & climbing toprope social club.
Thu: Fingerboard repeaters on a beastmaker, 7 sets of each at 3 min intervals: 4 fingers on smallest edge & 35°
Sun: Fingerboard repeaters, 7 sets each, 3 min intervals: Back 3 medium pocket, Front 3 smallest pocket
Plans next week: The same for fingerboard. Want to get on circuit board, upstairs bouldering and traverse room at MCC, then more toprope social club.
Tue: Bouldering downstairs MCC & climbing toprope social club.
Thu: Fingerboard repeaters on a beastmaker, 7 sets of each at 3 min intervals: 4 fingers on smallest edge & 35°
Sun: Fingerboard repeaters, 7 sets each, 3 min intervals: Back 3 medium pocket, Front 3 smallest pocket
Plans next week: The same for fingerboard. Want to get on circuit board, upstairs bouldering and traverse room at MCC, then more toprope social club.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
When in El Chorro folk should really get up to Loja, it's amazing and well worth the drive.
It also happens to be 30mins from my wife's parent's house so I hope to spend some more time there this year, probably around October/Nov.
When in El Chorro folk should really get up to Loja, it's amazing and well worth the drive.
It also happens to be 30mins from my wife's parent's house so I hope to spend some more time there this year, probably around October/Nov.
In reply to grubes:
If you send me an email through the forums I'll stick you on the email once I send it out.
If you send me an email through the forums I'll stick you on the email once I send it out.
Hi all
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep
M - routes at the WW as detailed last week.
W - bouldering at the WW. Got there late because of work. Did some of the new routes on the oven. Lots around V2 ish and above. WIBL problems up to about about 15ish.
S - Cimbing at the Castle. Various things. Flashed 2 V3s and a V4. All easy good progress from say 4 months ago when that would never have happened.
S - nothing
M (today) - day off as weekend in the country. Trip to the Biscuit Factory 20 ish V1-V3. Around a dozen of the V3-V5 problems. Spent a while working on that must have been cV5 but didn't manage it.
Overall bouldering is going well. 5 or so more weeks of bouldering before I hit the PE pre Kalymnos. No outdoors next weekend but then Portland 3 weeks in a row. Hoping to use the time there to RP something hard.
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep
M - routes at the WW as detailed last week.
W - bouldering at the WW. Got there late because of work. Did some of the new routes on the oven. Lots around V2 ish and above. WIBL problems up to about about 15ish.
S - Cimbing at the Castle. Various things. Flashed 2 V3s and a V4. All easy good progress from say 4 months ago when that would never have happened.
S - nothing
M (today) - day off as weekend in the country. Trip to the Biscuit Factory 20 ish V1-V3. Around a dozen of the V3-V5 problems. Spent a while working on that must have been cV5 but didn't manage it.
Overall bouldering is going well. 5 or so more weeks of bouldering before I hit the PE pre Kalymnos. No outdoors next weekend but then Portland 3 weeks in a row. Hoping to use the time there to RP something hard.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for the positive comments!
STG: Climb more consistently at 6a , climb onsight 5+ on a range of styles and boulder at V1. Start lead climbing on easy grades.
MTG: Climb at 6a+, lead on 5+ and boulder onsight at V1. Second climbing outside.
LTG: Start lead climbing outside (Vdiff / S).
VLTG: Lead climb VS
M - T - Rested, bit of a crap week at work. From memory, did a bit of yoga as well.
F - Bouldering at UEA. More good work with the V1 cave problem, very close to completing. Also did some long traverses and worked the starts on some hard routes.
S - Routes at Cragg. Steady climbing at around 5+. Did some good progress on a 6a+ slab and a couple of 6a vertical climbs. Looking forward to getting the climbs finished.
S - Rest
This weeks aim - Try and consolidate some 6a climbs, aim to do some UEA slab climbs and bouldering at Cragg.
> IanT – Well done on the 6a. The very fact you’re reflecting on how you spend time at the wall, is a good thing. I wouldn’t worry too much at this stage, but you could (probably do already) focus on either bouldering or roped climbing in a session. Use your warm up as an opportunity to have a good think about your technique. Try moves a few times to find the easiest way to do them. You seem keen, it’s cool.
Thanks for the positive comments!
STG: Climb more consistently at 6a , climb onsight 5+ on a range of styles and boulder at V1. Start lead climbing on easy grades.
MTG: Climb at 6a+, lead on 5+ and boulder onsight at V1. Second climbing outside.
LTG: Start lead climbing outside (Vdiff / S).
VLTG: Lead climb VS
M - T - Rested, bit of a crap week at work. From memory, did a bit of yoga as well.
F - Bouldering at UEA. More good work with the V1 cave problem, very close to completing. Also did some long traverses and worked the starts on some hard routes.
S - Routes at Cragg. Steady climbing at around 5+. Did some good progress on a 6a+ slab and a couple of 6a vertical climbs. Looking forward to getting the climbs finished.
S - Rest
This weeks aim - Try and consolidate some 6a climbs, aim to do some UEA slab climbs and bouldering at Cragg.
In reply to mrchewy:
Getting there cheers. Climbed on it yesterday, had a bit of a reaction not helped by belaying all day today, but ice water baths seem to sort it out.
>
> How's the elbow?
> How's the elbow?
Getting there cheers. Climbed on it yesterday, had a bit of a reaction not helped by belaying all day today, but ice water baths seem to sort it out.
In reply to grubes:
Do you have a car this time ? If not i'm happy to take you to desplo and Cauche, and Loja :0) You could stop over at mine for a night.
> (In reply to Nomics4sale) no i have always done chorro without a car before so not checked out desplo. It's one of the reasons I am keen
Do you have a car this time ? If not i'm happy to take you to desplo and Cauche, and Loja :0) You could stop over at mine for a night.
In reply to grubes:
Don't worry i'm trying to keep free that week so i can get down to climb a bit more than last time.
It REALLY is grim ;0) - you'll love it.
> (In reply to Nomics4sale)
> [...]
>
> Well I am booked in 17th to 24th but my mate keeps changing the days she can go.
> [...]
>
> Well I am booked in 17th to 24th but my mate keeps changing the days she can go.
Don't worry i'm trying to keep free that week so i can get down to climb a bit more than last time.
> He mentioned something of a grim painful 7a+ slab I think it could be fun to take lobs off(down).
It REALLY is grim ;0) - you'll love it.
In reply to biscuit: If it's responding, it's good news - stick with it!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Crap (literally at one point) week
Mon - nowt
Tues - nowt
Weds - AM run 25 mins fast pace
Thurs - ill in bed
Fri - still ill
Sat - ditto
Sun - worked all day
On a plus note I lost a few pounds due to a delightful virus/bug
Crap (literally at one point) week
Mon - nowt
Tues - nowt
Weds - AM run 25 mins fast pace
Thurs - ill in bed
Fri - still ill
Sat - ditto
Sun - worked all day
On a plus note I lost a few pounds due to a delightful virus/bug
In reply to biscuit:
Not sure If I am getting a car yet and I would not want to put you out as to have to drive 40 mins to olive branch then 40 mins back to the crag
Right well the situation is I am taking my mate becky who has not really done any sport before except half a day in north wales where she did her first top rope then lead a couple of 4+'s and a 5.
I reckon she should be able to lead 6b ish with a little bit of work (she boulders pretty well.
After getting spanked at malham/yorkshire sport I am keen to get on the sport again. I just need this finger to heal.
Looking like I may be back early from pembroke now so if I am back anyone for malham a week tomorrow (26th) Will probs know on wednesday evening when I am coming back.
> (In reply to grubes)
> Do you have a car this time ? If not i'm happy to take you to desplo and Cauche, and Loja :0)
> Do you have a car this time ? If not i'm happy to take you to desplo and Cauche, and Loja :0)
Not sure If I am getting a car yet and I would not want to put you out as to have to drive 40 mins to olive branch then 40 mins back to the crag
Right well the situation is I am taking my mate becky who has not really done any sport before except half a day in north wales where she did her first top rope then lead a couple of 4+'s and a 5.
I reckon she should be able to lead 6b ish with a little bit of work (she boulders pretty well.
> You could stop over at mine for a night.
Thanks for the offer will let you know nearer the time bex might need some convincing.After getting spanked at malham/yorkshire sport I am keen to get on the sport again. I just need this finger to heal.
Looking like I may be back early from pembroke now so if I am back anyone for malham a week tomorrow (26th) Will probs know on wednesday evening when I am coming back.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.
Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap
M: Bouldering at Westway, up to about V3/4.
T: Nothing
W: Westway, laps. 3m30s on, 3m30s - 3m40s off. Was pretty strict with timings. 5 laps, pumped to failure at 2m48s on 5th lap
T: Nothing
F: Nothing, very tired.
S: Nothing
S: Climbing at Portland, onsighted two F6cs which I've not done in a day before. I don't think they were particularly hard for the grade but nice to see the training having some effect.
A pretty good week. Wanted to get another session in on Friday but was really tired, a combination of work being stressful and my hayfever being extremely bad this year. I guess those are the kind of restraints I have to live with.
Still, my laps session saw me beat my previous point of falling off, and I was quite strict with timings, so I think I'm making progress.
Last Tuesday marked the ten weeks before I go away point. Starting to get excited.
Thanks Dan.
Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap
M: Bouldering at Westway, up to about V3/4.
T: Nothing
W: Westway, laps. 3m30s on, 3m30s - 3m40s off. Was pretty strict with timings. 5 laps, pumped to failure at 2m48s on 5th lap
T: Nothing
F: Nothing, very tired.
S: Nothing
S: Climbing at Portland, onsighted two F6cs which I've not done in a day before. I don't think they were particularly hard for the grade but nice to see the training having some effect.
A pretty good week. Wanted to get another session in on Friday but was really tired, a combination of work being stressful and my hayfever being extremely bad this year. I guess those are the kind of restraints I have to live with.
Still, my laps session saw me beat my previous point of falling off, and I was quite strict with timings, so I think I'm making progress.
Last Tuesday marked the ten weeks before I go away point. Starting to get excited.
In reply to biscuit:
Plans are afoot for another trip to my in-laws sometime in October. This time I'll be bringing along someone to climb with but we have unfinished business with Hasta Luego Luca so I hope your elbow will be sorted by then! (You're clearly welcome to join us whenever you're free)
Not sure what week it'll be, could even be early November, but I'll keep you informed.
Plans are afoot for another trip to my in-laws sometime in October. This time I'll be bringing along someone to climb with but we have unfinished business with Hasta Luego Luca so I hope your elbow will be sorted by then! (You're clearly welcome to join us whenever you're free)
Not sure what week it'll be, could even be early November, but I'll keep you informed.
In reply to Eagle River:
Looking forward to it, just let me know.
The 7c i'm aiming for is like HLL but harder and bigger - oops.
Get training !
Looking forward to it, just let me know.
The 7c i'm aiming for is like HLL but harder and bigger - oops.
Get training !
In reply to Daniel Heath: thanks dan
M - stretches and foam roller
T - stretches and foam roller
W - stretches and foam roller
T - nothing - slap on wrist
F - stretches and foam roller
S - stretches and foam roller
S - stretches and foam roller. couple of hours bouldering at the barn
M - stretches and foam roller
T - stretches and foam roller
W - stretches and foam roller
T - nothing - slap on wrist
F - stretches and foam roller
S - stretches and foam roller
S - stretches and foam roller. couple of hours bouldering at the barn
In reply to grubes:
Ah, i see your point. If there are two of you cars are really cheap at that time if you just get a little fiat panda or something. Gives the option of getting to the lakes, beaches, night out in malaga and Desplo etc too of course.
> Thanks for the offer will let you know nearer the time bex might need some convincing.
>
>
Ah, i see your point. If there are two of you cars are really cheap at that time if you just get a little fiat panda or something. Gives the option of getting to the lakes, beaches, night out in malaga and Desplo etc too of course.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Two weeks to report, including a week in Skye. Had a great time, ticked the ridge in 3 sections, got the classic scrambles done (Pinncale Ridge, Dubh Slabs and Clach Glas) and the classic rock routes on the Cioch. Had a go at the full traverse early in the week, but hit bad weather and then decided to leave it for another time.
M: Biked 20 miles 3000 feet ascent
T: Bouldering at Burbage, circuit up to V3
W: Ran 4.5 miles
T:
F:
S:
S: Walked 10 miles 4800 feet ascent
M: 8 miles 3500 feet
T: 9 miles 5500 feet
W: 6 miles 2750 feet, multipitch climb HS
T: 8 miles 4000 feet
F: 6 miles 3000 feet
S:
S: Biked 10 miles on new hybrid road bike
STG: Running and limestone trad to get ready for Dolomites/Alps trip
MTG: < 50 min 10 k
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5
Two weeks to report, including a week in Skye. Had a great time, ticked the ridge in 3 sections, got the classic scrambles done (Pinncale Ridge, Dubh Slabs and Clach Glas) and the classic rock routes on the Cioch. Had a go at the full traverse early in the week, but hit bad weather and then decided to leave it for another time.
M: Biked 20 miles 3000 feet ascent
T: Bouldering at Burbage, circuit up to V3
W: Ran 4.5 miles
T:
F:
S:
S: Walked 10 miles 4800 feet ascent
M: 8 miles 3500 feet
T: 9 miles 5500 feet
W: 6 miles 2750 feet, multipitch climb HS
T: 8 miles 4000 feet
F: 6 miles 3000 feet
S:
S: Biked 10 miles on new hybrid road bike
STG: Running and limestone trad to get ready for Dolomites/Alps trip
MTG: < 50 min 10 k
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5
In reply to Daniel Heath: It's been a while since i posted on the fit club, so to get back into things, i'm uping my motivation!!
STG (6weeks): up strength by 25% (currently manage 11 pull ups. Target = 13/14)
Establish current sport onsight grade (6c+ last time i climbed sport)
Up motivation to train regularly!!
Onsight E3 (I can onsight E2, and have led, clean after doing the moves on top rope, an E4, so just need to get on an E3)
MTG (6months): Onsight 7a Sport
Redpoint 7b+ Sport
Onsight E4
Work E5
Keep motivation high!!
Climb 30+ VS 4c multipitch routes for MIA training next year (5/30)
LTG (1 Year): Onsight 7b+
Redpoint 8a
Onsight E5
Work E6
Winter V/Alpine D+
VLTG (5 years+): 8a, E7, VIII, ED1 (Onsight)
Gain MIC and start BMG training
Did nothing worth logging last week as work and being an Adult instructor in the Army Cadet Force stopped all play However, i have written up a nice new 22week training programme which should hopefully get me to where i'd like to end up and achieve those goals!
STG (6weeks): up strength by 25% (currently manage 11 pull ups. Target = 13/14)
Establish current sport onsight grade (6c+ last time i climbed sport)
Up motivation to train regularly!!
Onsight E3 (I can onsight E2, and have led, clean after doing the moves on top rope, an E4, so just need to get on an E3)
MTG (6months): Onsight 7a Sport
Redpoint 7b+ Sport
Onsight E4
Work E5
Keep motivation high!!
Climb 30+ VS 4c multipitch routes for MIA training next year (5/30)
LTG (1 Year): Onsight 7b+
Redpoint 8a
Onsight E5
Work E6
Winter V/Alpine D+
VLTG (5 years+): 8a, E7, VIII, ED1 (Onsight)
Gain MIC and start BMG training
Did nothing worth logging last week as work and being an Adult instructor in the Army Cadet Force stopped all play However, i have written up a nice new 22week training programme which should hopefully get me to where i'd like to end up and achieve those goals!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I think I may have missed out last week!
Just ran 8 miles x-country along the Cotswold edge, so pretty hilly, in 1.20, so not bad for me. I ran last wed, just an easy 5 x-country.
I have the Cotswold Way Relay race a week on sat, running leg 9, so 9 miles of fun!
I think I may have missed out last week!
Just ran 8 miles x-country along the Cotswold edge, so pretty hilly, in 1.20, so not bad for me. I ran last wed, just an easy 5 x-country.
I have the Cotswold Way Relay race a week on sat, running leg 9, so 9 miles of fun!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Beast Making Update: Just bought a pulley with the intention of getting a bit more systematic with my fingerboarding. Why didn't I get one years ago? It was actually pretty cheap and it works really well. In case anyone, like me, has tried and given up using a DMM revolver krab instead of a pulley, a proper pulley works MILES better. I have one of these:
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/single-pulleys-0/oscillante
No more mucking around with bathroom scales for me.
In case anyone cares, my set up is I have a pullup bar mounted under the beastmaker. Pulley attaches to the pullup bar via a maillon and some tat. Rope runs through the pulley with a hand loop on one end and the other end clove hitched into a krab. Then an arbitrary number of free weights can be threaded onto a loop tied into a bit of 10 mil rope, and the loop clipped into the krab on the end of the pulley rope. Changing weights over is very quick like this.
Going to have a couple of weeks worth of sessions to assess my level, then set some medium term beast maker goals. Bring it.
Beast Making Update: Just bought a pulley with the intention of getting a bit more systematic with my fingerboarding. Why didn't I get one years ago? It was actually pretty cheap and it works really well. In case anyone, like me, has tried and given up using a DMM revolver krab instead of a pulley, a proper pulley works MILES better. I have one of these:
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/single-pulleys-0/oscillante
No more mucking around with bathroom scales for me.
In case anyone cares, my set up is I have a pullup bar mounted under the beastmaker. Pulley attaches to the pullup bar via a maillon and some tat. Rope runs through the pulley with a hand loop on one end and the other end clove hitched into a krab. Then an arbitrary number of free weights can be threaded onto a loop tied into a bit of 10 mil rope, and the loop clipped into the krab on the end of the pulley rope. Changing weights over is very quick like this.
Going to have a couple of weeks worth of sessions to assess my level, then set some medium term beast maker goals. Bring it.
In reply to Quiddity:
Thanks for the link Nick
I have indeed tired and given using a DMM revolver!
I might consider this next autumn when I want to get stronger again.
Thanks for the link Nick
I have indeed tired and given using a DMM revolver!
I might consider this next autumn when I want to get stronger again.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Quiet week.
Mon-Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Castle. Up to V4.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Fingerboard and core.
Back on it this weekend. Fingers crossed forecast is better than predicted...
Quiet week.
Mon-Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Castle. Up to V4.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Fingerboard and core.
Back on it this weekend. Fingers crossed forecast is better than predicted...
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
Good to see you back and good luck with your goals,
Is this pull up target not mostly measuring an increase in endurance, rather than strength? For sure, you would probably get a *little* bit stronger but the strength increase in being able to do 11 reps to being able to do 14 reps is much less than 25%.
If you want to benchmark strength, I would have thought you'd be better off measuring it directly - ie. keep the number of reps the same and add weight - eg. for someone weighing 70kg who can do 10 pull ups, a 25% strength increase = 10 pull ups with a 17.5kg weight belt.
Good to see you back and good luck with your goals,
> up strength by 25% (currently manage 11 pull ups. Target = 13/14)
Is this pull up target not mostly measuring an increase in endurance, rather than strength? For sure, you would probably get a *little* bit stronger but the strength increase in being able to do 11 reps to being able to do 14 reps is much less than 25%.
If you want to benchmark strength, I would have thought you'd be better off measuring it directly - ie. keep the number of reps the same and add weight - eg. for someone weighing 70kg who can do 10 pull ups, a 25% strength increase = 10 pull ups with a 17.5kg weight belt.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan.
Busy week socially which didn't leave much time for exercise!
M - nothing
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - cycled to work and back (2x5.5 miles), routes session at wall - top roped some 5-6b routes, onsighted 2 6bs (1 very soft) and a 5+, got spanked on something harder which didn't know the grade of (think its now been given 6c+ but had a real stopper move).
F - Ran into work, 5.5 miles in 48mins - slower than normal (not sure why)
S - nothing (at hen do!)
S - short post-hen do boulder session at the Reach. Not done any of the problems and elbow still tweaky so tried to avoid any big right arm lock-offs - easier said than done! Mostly did V0-V2/3 with a couple of harder problems.
Feeling like I'm completely falling apart at the moment - elbow still not feeling great, getting pains in top of right forearm and wrist ache (poss typing/work related) and woke up this morning with top of my back/neck in agony. Struggling to work out why I'm being hit with all these things at once, as haven't really been doing anything significantly different to normal (i.e. what I've been fine with for last year and a half!), but finding it quite demoralising.
Busy week socially which didn't leave much time for exercise!
M - nothing
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - cycled to work and back (2x5.5 miles), routes session at wall - top roped some 5-6b routes, onsighted 2 6bs (1 very soft) and a 5+, got spanked on something harder which didn't know the grade of (think its now been given 6c+ but had a real stopper move).
F - Ran into work, 5.5 miles in 48mins - slower than normal (not sure why)
S - nothing (at hen do!)
S - short post-hen do boulder session at the Reach. Not done any of the problems and elbow still tweaky so tried to avoid any big right arm lock-offs - easier said than done! Mostly did V0-V2/3 with a couple of harder problems.
Feeling like I'm completely falling apart at the moment - elbow still not feeling great, getting pains in top of right forearm and wrist ache (poss typing/work related) and woke up this morning with top of my back/neck in agony. Struggling to work out why I'm being hit with all these things at once, as haven't really been doing anything significantly different to normal (i.e. what I've been fine with for last year and a half!), but finding it quite demoralising.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel. Bit of a lightweight week for me. Sunday at Curbar - my first time there and found it a bit more intimidating than Stanage. Only led a couple of HS's though did a short 6a on TR (one of those highball slab problems really, 'Canoe' E3 6a I think it was) so technically I should have more confidence to push the leads on from 4b/c which is where I currently seem to be (on grit anyway). Short session indoors, usual partner awol so climbed with other better people for a while but found it a bit intimidating to be falling off their warm-ups so slunk away which was a bit stupid really as I would probably have learned alot if I was less concerned with looking a bit of a numpty
In reply to Stone_donkey:
Next time you're welcome to climb with me if you wish, I'll probably be resting on the rope plenty! Don't let the loud and brash folk get your mojo down, they all shout "take", have elvis leg and desperatly grab for the next hold when feeling sketchy. We all have the same experience/demons when on a route which we find hard for our abilities.
Sounds a good day at Curbar, I wish I'd made it myself.....
Next time you're welcome to climb with me if you wish, I'll probably be resting on the rope plenty! Don't let the loud and brash folk get your mojo down, they all shout "take", have elvis leg and desperatly grab for the next hold when feeling sketchy. We all have the same experience/demons when on a route which we find hard for our abilities.
Sounds a good day at Curbar, I wish I'd made it myself.....
In reply to Stone_donkey:
It takes a while but eventually realise they don't care. I don't mean that in a negative way.
How often have you thought less of someone, or that some one was stupid because they couldn't climb as hard as you ? Never i guess ( hope ) and neither will they. All my current partners are 8a and above climbers. I fall off their warm ups, sometimes on top rope ! They don't care as long as they get a belay back from me.
It takes a while but eventually realise they don't care. I don't mean that in a negative way.
How often have you thought less of someone, or that some one was stupid because they couldn't climb as hard as you ? Never i guess ( hope ) and neither will they. All my current partners are 8a and above climbers. I fall off their warm ups, sometimes on top rope ! They don't care as long as they get a belay back from me.
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